search  current discussion  categories  tools & equipment - bats 

bats (that don't fly)

updated sun 23 jun 02

 

BVCuma on thu 20 jun 02


I checked the archives but didn't find what I was looking for.
I don't want masonite, med-x, chip board or plastic.
I have found some industrial dumahickies (thingamabobs)
basically a plastic cone with a recessed hole to accomadate the bolt.
Bolted three of them to to the wheel head to hold the bat...
I need to find a good compostion for two or three dozen bats.
Have tried 1 part plaster 1 part white cement....no good
long setting time and broke up on handling 24 hrs later.(poor pop)
Tried portland cement 50/50 with plaster, slow set time but decent =
strength.
I would like a fast setting durable combination of materials..
I think I will go with a dental plaster ( the only decent pop here) and =
portland cement 50/50
It should set fast like normal pop as I want to do a bunch at a time..
not one each day to set overnight.
Any suggestions as I would like to avoid a long trial testing for =
performance.
I know cement has been recommended as the best working surface...
could it also be the best bat material for me?..
weight is not an issue as I don't care for the flying variety.
Any suggestions ??? or must I rely on the old test test test format!

Oh BTW
A simple and good mold for bats...
My wheel head is 10 inches across, I cut a standard white 20 litre =
bucket
into about a 2 inch band...
they have a nice gentle taper that allows it to snugly fit over the =
wheel..
just pour the compostition or plaster in..let it set, remove =
mould...trim to level.

Again a fast setting durable mix that will not score easily...
is 100% portland cement a good choice?
should I consider an aggregate or suffer reduced strength?

Thanks,
Bruce

Cheryl Hoffman on thu 20 jun 02


In a message dated 6/20/02 11:33:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bvcuma@PACIFIC.NET.IN writes:


> I need to find a good composition for two or three dozen bats.
>

Bruce,
Have you tried Ultracal or Hydrostone? I make my bats out of
Ultracal, which is heavier, less absorbent than pottery plaster but is much
stronger. I've never tried the Hydrostone, but it is supposed to be the
hardest and strongest of any of the gypsum cements. The instructions from my
supplier are to mix at 32 parts water by weight to 100 parts Hydrostone by
weight.
Good luck, Cher H.

Longtin, Jeff on thu 20 jun 02


Hey Bruce,
Couple things:
My experience has been, primarily, with Georgia Pacific and US Gypsum. The
GP makes K-60, a pottery plaster, and Densite, a type of dental plaster. US
Gypsum calls their pottery plaster No.1 Pottery Plaster and there dental
plaster Hydrostone (I do believe).
Dental plasters are white cements and are typically used for ram press molds
and wedging tables. Pottery Plasters are types of gypsum plaster and are
commonly used for slip-casting molds and reclaiming tables.
I would suggest a dental plaster for your application. I've never mixed in
portland cement so I can't help you there.
With agitated mixing you should see set times of 1/2 to 1 hour.
Grey cements, I think portland cement is grey in color? (a true "cement")
typically need extended mixing, at least 5 minutes, to get good mix and good
strength. USG calls their "true" cements Ultracal, I don't know what GP
calls theirs? Ultracal is usually just used as a block and case mold molding
material as it has very little absorbancy and is quite hard. As I recall it
also tends to be very brittle and might be suseptible to chipping.

Good Luck

Jeff Longtin
Complex Molds Made Easy

-----Original Message-----
From: BVCuma [mailto:bvcuma@PACIFIC.NET.IN]
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 10:12 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Bats (that don't fly)


I checked the archives but didn't find what I was looking for.
I don't want masonite, med-x, chip board or plastic.
I have found some industrial dumahickies (thingamabobs)
basically a plastic cone with a recessed hole to accomadate the bolt.
Bolted three of them to to the wheel head to hold the bat...
I need to find a good compostion for two or three dozen bats.
Have tried 1 part plaster 1 part white cement....no good
long setting time and broke up on handling 24 hrs later.(poor pop)
Tried portland cement 50/50 with plaster, slow set time but decent strength.
I would like a fast setting durable combination of materials..
I think I will go with a dental plaster ( the only decent pop here) and
portland cement 50/50
It should set fast like normal pop as I want to do a bunch at a time..
not one each day to set overnight.
Any suggestions as I would like to avoid a long trial testing for
performance.
I know cement has been recommended as the best working surface...
could it also be the best bat material for me?..
weight is not an issue as I don't care for the flying variety.
Any suggestions ??? or must I rely on the old test test test format!

Oh BTW
A simple and good mold for bats...
My wheel head is 10 inches across, I cut a standard white 20 litre bucket
into about a 2 inch band...
they have a nice gentle taper that allows it to snugly fit over the wheel..
just pour the compostition or plaster in..let it set, remove mould...trim to
level.

Again a fast setting durable mix that will not score easily...
is 100% portland cement a good choice?
should I consider an aggregate or suffer reduced strength?

Thanks,
Bruce

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Dupre Mr Marcy M on fri 21 jun 02


> I need to find a good composition for two or three dozen bats.


Bruce,

Cher hit the nail (and the bat) on the head! I use hydrostone for bats for
my Thomas Stuart electric. Working on a way to convert the Thomas Stuart
kick to plaster bat heads, as well.

One problem. Your requirement to make a bunch of bats and not have to wait
several days for them to cure. I think that may be a tad unreasonable
expectation. Even if you use Portland cement, they will have to cure for a
while to be able to absorb some water and have the clay adhere to the bat.

Anyhow, give some though to using hydrostone. Makes the bats pretty heavy,
as compared to Pottery #1 plaster, but they are nearly bullet-proof and will
take a lot of handling.

Best of luck,

Tig

BVCuma on sun 23 jun 02


Thanks for the feedback
on list and off.

10" by aprox 1 and 1/4" bat
=20
850 grams water
850 grams portland cement
1000 grams plaster (dental)

remove mold after 20 min.
trim and square to spec...
another 20 min
then pry from wheel head.
no prob,
so far so good...
lets see how they stand up.

Bruce