Leigh Whitaker on tue 20 mar 07
I'll post more pics later, my camera's batteries are dead.
Pictures are here:
_http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AcOG7ZyzatGH9¬ag=1_
(http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AcOG7ZyzatGH9¬ag=1)
Waterfall Brown turned out much better this time, I think it's almost there.
I had it a little thick on the outside of a bowl. It didn't run onto the
shelf, but it has some thick drips. I also had it on the inside of a little
bowl and it looked pretty nice, but there was no texture for it break over.
Variegated slate blue looked good. Caribbean sea green is still blue, even
though I had it on thicker than before, so maybe it is the % of rutile. I
have tests in now where I made a 300g batch minus rutile, split it into 3
batches and added 6%, 8%, and 10%. So I'll see if that fixes it.
I also tried Field mouse brown, and it looks very nice!
I mixed a batch of Bone, and it turned out much yellower than I was
expecting it to (more of an eggnog), although it is very pretty. Can I make it
whiter by just reducing the rutile, or do I need to add an opacifier as well?
I also did a test where I layered all possible combinations of layers of
these 5 glazes. The best were definitely anything over Caribbean sea green.
WFB/CSG was a nice glossy blue brown going to tan. Field mouse brown/CSG is
beautiful!. It's a mottled tan with bright cobalt blue spots. It's textured
(kind of dimpled), and I don't know if that's a bad thing? Var. slate
blue/CSG is okay, but maybe pitted (I'm not sure exactly what pitting is). Bone/CSG
is very very nice mottled whitish and tan with blue spots ( but not as deep
blue as the Field mouse brown gave).
The other combinations were not as great, but there may be some
possibilities. VSB and CSG over WFB might be nice if I could get the application
thickness right.
Questions:
#1. The one I already asked about how to make bone less yellow.
#2. If I want a nice creamy colored liner glaze should I add some tin oxide
or zircopax to one of these glazes. Is there an advantage to tin oxide over
zircopax ( I'm sure there is- LOL)?
#3. When layering glazes should one try to layer i.e. a matte over a matte,
glossy over glossy? Or can they be mixed?
Thanks for looking!
Leigh
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Patty Kaliher on wed 21 mar 07
Can you tell me where I can find these glazes and/or recipes?
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Leigh Whitaker
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 10:02 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: M^6 glaze results- getting better (with pictures) and questions
I'll post more pics later, my camera's batteries are dead.
Pictures are here:
_http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AcOG7ZyzatGH9¬ag=1_
(http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AcOG7ZyzatGH9¬ag=1)
Waterfall Brown turned out much better this time, I think it's almost
there.
I had it a little thick on the outside of a bowl. It didn't run onto the
shelf, but it has some thick drips. I also had it on the inside of a
little
bowl and it looked pretty nice, but there was no texture for it break over.
Variegated slate blue looked good. Caribbean sea green is still blue, even
though I had it on thicker than before, so maybe it is the % of rutile. I
have tests in now where I made a 300g batch minus rutile, split it into 3
batches and added 6%, 8%, and 10%. So I'll see if that fixes it.
I also tried Field mouse brown, and it looks very nice!
I mixed a batch of Bone, and it turned out much yellower than I was
expecting it to (more of an eggnog), although it is very pretty. Can I
make it
whiter by just reducing the rutile, or do I need to add an opacifier as
well?
I also did a test where I layered all possible combinations of layers of
these 5 glazes. The best were definitely anything over Caribbean sea
green.
WFB/CSG was a nice glossy blue brown going to tan. Field mouse brown/CSG
is
beautiful!. It's a mottled tan with bright cobalt blue spots. It's
textured
(kind of dimpled), and I don't know if that's a bad thing? Var. slate
blue/CSG is okay, but maybe pitted (I'm not sure exactly what pitting is).
Bone/CSG
is very very nice mottled whitish and tan with blue spots ( but not as deep
blue as the Field mouse brown gave).
The other combinations were not as great, but there may be some
possibilities. VSB and CSG over WFB might be nice if I could get the
application
thickness right.
Questions:
#1. The one I already asked about how to make bone less yellow.
#2. If I want a nice creamy colored liner glaze should I add some tin
oxide
or zircopax to one of these glazes. Is there an advantage to tin oxide
over
zircopax ( I'm sure there is- LOL)?
#3. When layering glazes should one try to layer i.e. a matte over a
matte,
glossy over glossy? Or can they be mixed?
Thanks for looking!
Leigh
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Donna Kat on wed 21 mar 07
>I mixed a batch of Bone, and it turned out much yellower than I was
>expecting it to (more of an eggnog), although it is very pretty. Can I
make it
>whiter by just reducing the rutile, or do I need to add an opacifier as
well?
>
What kind of rutile are you using? Light Rutile will give you more white
than yellow. In the Spearmint light rutile gives a light green where dark
rutile gives more of an light olive green. Dark Rutile (which I believe
John said is what he used when originally coming up with these glazes)
will give you a more muted and gold color. I think your Caribean is
beautiful. Here I would think that the dark rutile would give you a more
green color...
Donna
Lisa E on wed 21 mar 07
Hi Leigh;
You're getting there. The Caribbean Green is gorgeous if you are looking
for a nice blue, but not green. I think Ron Roy answered your question
about this and suggested something about the rutile. So go back to that
email from Ron.
Your VSB is still cooling a little fast. I try to put my VSB pieces at the
top of my kiln, then the color is more matt.
Regarding the bone, it is yellowy. It looks identical to mine. So you have
the "recipe" right. I will let others respond to your questions there as I
am not a glaze expert.
Your Waterfall and Field Mouse Brown are both awesome and turned out
perfect!
Good job and keep playing!
Regards,
Lisa
On 3/20/07, Leigh Whitaker wrote:
>
> I'll post more pics later, my camera's batteries are dead.
>
> Pictures are here:
> _http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AcOG7ZyzatGH9¬ag=1_
> (http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AcOG7ZyzatGH9¬ag=1)
>
> Waterfall Brown turned out much better this time, I think it's
> almost there.
> I had it a little thick on the outside of a bowl. It didn't run onto the
> shelf, but it has some thick drips. I also had it on the inside of a
> little
> bowl and it looked pretty nice, but there was no texture for it break
> over.
>
> Variegated slate blue looked good. Caribbean sea green is still
> blue, even
> though I had it on thicker than before, so maybe it is the %
> of rutile. I
> have tests in now where I made a 300g batch minus rutile, split it into 3
> batches and added 6%, 8%, and 10%. So I'll see if that fixes it.
>
> I also tried Field mouse brown, and it looks very nice!
>
> I mixed a batch of Bone, and it turned out much yellower than I was
> expecting it to (more of an eggnog), although it is very pretty. Can
> I make it
> whiter by just reducing the rutile, or do I need to add an opacifier
> as well?
>
> I also did a test where I layered all possible combinations of layers of
> these 5 glazes. The best were definitely anything over Caribbean sea
> green.
> WFB/CSG was a nice glossy blue brown going to tan. Field mouse brown/CSG
> is
> beautiful!. It's a mottled tan with bright cobalt blue spots. It's
> textured
> (kind of dimpled), and I don't know if that's a bad thing? Var. slate
> blue/CSG is okay, but maybe pitted (I'm not sure exactly what pitting
> is). Bone/CSG
> is very very nice mottled whitish and tan with blue spots ( but not as
> deep
> blue as the Field mouse brown gave).
>
> The other combinations were not as great, but there may be some
> possibilities. VSB and CSG over WFB might be nice if I could get
> the application
> thickness right.
>
> Questions:
> #1. The one I already asked about how to make bone less yellow.
> #2. If I want a nice creamy colored liner glaze should I add some
> tin oxide
> or zircopax to one of these glazes. Is there an advantage to tin oxide
> over
> zircopax ( I'm sure there is- LOL)?
> #3. When layering glazes should one try to layer i.e. a matte over
> a matte,
> glossy over glossy? Or can they be mixed?
>
> Thanks for looking!
> Leigh
>
>
>
> ************************************** AOL now offers free email to
> everyone.
> Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Lisa Elbertsen
www.LisaElbertsen.com
Sunny Daze Design Pottery Studio
SunnyDazeDesign@gmail.com
Squamish, BC Canada
Leigh Whitaker on wed 21 mar 07
In a message dated 3/21/2007 3:11:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
disisdkat@HOTMAIL.COM writes:
What kind of rutile are you using? Light Rutile will give you more white
than yellow. In the Spearmint light rutile gives a light green where dark
rutile gives more of an light olive green. Dark Rutile (which I believe
John said is what he used when originally coming up with these glazes)
will give you a more muted and gold color. I think your Caribean is
beautiful. Here I would think that the dark rutile would give you a more
green color...
Donna
I would guess it is the dark rutile. It is darker than say EPK, but lighter
than uh... black pepper. I do remember John said he used dark, but
qualified it by saying rutiles may be different now than they were when he made these
recipes. The fact that my Caribbean is not green, yet bone is yellow
confuses me too. Maybe I measured wrong?
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Leigh Whitaker on wed 21 mar 07
In a message dated 3/21/2007 3:10:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Patty@PATTYKALIHER.COM writes:
Can you tell me where I can find these glazes and/or recipes?
They are from a book called Mastering Cone 6 Glazes. It was written by some
very nice guys who are on this list, Ron Roy and John Hesselberth (did I
spell that right?).
Here's the amazon link for it:
_http://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Cone-Glazes-Durability-Aesthetics/dp/09730063
07/ref=pd_bbs_1/103-3729957-6879017?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1174507335&sr=8-1_
(http://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Cone-Glazes-Durability-Aesthetics/dp/0973006307/
ref=pd_bbs_1/103-3729957-6879017?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1174507335&sr=8-1)
I got my copy from Bracker's Good Earth Clays, and they were very nice to
deal with!
Leigh
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Daryl Shafran on wed 21 mar 07
Hi Leigh,
Your results were very nice. How did you fire them? Did you do a slow cool
or did you do an auto fire? I have not gotten CSG or waterfall brown to
come out like that!
Daryl
Leigh Whitaker on wed 21 mar 07
In a message dated 3/21/2007 3:22:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sunnydazedesign@GMAIL.COM writes:
Hi Leigh;
You're getting there. The Caribbean Green is gorgeous if you are looking
for a nice blue, but not green. I think Ron Roy answered your question
about this and suggested something about the rutile. So go back to that
email from Ron.
Hi Lisa!
It is really pretty. I really want the green though! I did mention in my
post that I have some tests in where I have upped the rutile %, which I think
is what Ron had suggested.
Your VSB is still cooling a little fast. I try to put my VSB pieces at the
top of my kiln, then the color is more matt.
I will ask them to put these on top from now on. Thanks. I do have another
piece in VSB that is more matte, but my batteries died before I could get a
picture.
Regarding the bone, it is yellowy. It looks identical to mine. So you have
the "recipe" right. I will let others respond to your questions there as I
am not a glaze expert.
Your Waterfall and Field Mouse Brown are both awesome and turned out
perfect!
Thanks! I'm still not 100% satisfied with waterfall, but I think it still
has to do with my application and how suited the piece is to that particular
glaze. I was very pleased with the mouse brown.
Good job and keep playing!
Thanks for looking, and I will play as much as the baby will allow me to.
He's napping on me now, and I am becoming a master of one handed typing!
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Gail Fullerton on thu 22 mar 07
Hi Leigh,
I'm still a very new glaze maker, but as I am gaining confidence I find t=
hat I
am formulating glazes in the same way that I cook - a pinch of this and a=
dab
of that.
My MC6 glazes have been very successful on the whole and look very much l=
ike
yours. My CSG is a beautiful blue, people love it, but it's not at all g=
reen.
Next time I am going to try using a little less cobalt so the yellow in =
the
dark rutile has more influence, and I am also going to try adding a bit o=
f
copper to add a little green to the mix.
Gail Fullerton
Fairbanks, Alaska
____________________________________________________________________
=
Leigh Whitaker on thu 22 mar 07
In a message dated 3/22/2007 2:11:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gail.fullerton@STANFORDALUMNI.ORG writes:
Hi Leigh,
I'm still a very new glaze maker, but as I am gaining confidence I find that
I
am formulating glazes in the same way that I cook - a pinch of this and a dab
of that.
My MC6 glazes have been very successful on the whole and look very much like
yours. My CSG is a beautiful blue, people love it, but it's not at all
green.
Next time I am going to try using a little less cobalt so the yellow in the
dark rutile has more influence, and I am also going to try adding a bit of
copper to add a little green to the mix.
Gail Fullerton
Fairbanks, Alaska
Thanks Gail. I had considered reducing the cobalt as well. I was going to
try that if the increased rutile tests don't give me what I want (or maybe
even if they do since cobalt is more expensive)! I hadn't thought of adding
copper. I'd like to see how that looks if you try it.
Leigh
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