Mary Leither on wed 17 jan 07
I like to use printers blanket. It's portable, doesn't move because of the
rubber on the reverse side and easily cleaned. Once a week I give it a
thorough rinsing in the sink.
Jim Bridgeman on sat 17 feb 07
Sorry to revisit a subject that seems to have been covered a lot, but
after searching the archives (new to pottery) I have a few questions.
For those who use hardiboard to wedge or throw slabs on, have you had
any problem with the material cracking with use? What I have seen in
the stores has a smooth side and a somewhat rough side. Do you use the
smooth surface? I am in the process of setting up a small area in a
utility room with a wheel and small area for some handbuilding, wedging,
etc. My other thought is to build a 2x2 wedging table surfaced with
2-3" thick concrete. I have a lot of 2x8's and 2x10 left over from
various projects, so my only expense would be the concrete. If I go the
concrete route, is there any reason to cover with canvas?
Thank you in advance for any thoughts or comments.
Jim
WJ Seidl on sun 18 feb 07
Jim:
I use the smooth surfaced side UP. My HardieBoard is backed by 1/2 inch CDX
plywood, as it (the HB itself) is only 1/4 inch thick and would otherwise
crack with my constant pounding on it. I glued one to the other with "Liquid
Nails". The plywood/HB wedging board is then put on a work table, as I have
limited space.
Concrete also will work extremely well, but I prefer the HB. It seems to
dry out faster than a thick slab of concrete. I don't use canvas, because
of concerns about silica dust, (I use silk or satin, since I work mostly in
porcelain and don't like the texture of canvas) but it seems that if you
made the canvas detachable (such as spring clamps or such) it could be
washed out and reused, keeping the surface of the wedging area cleaner when
changing clay bodies, etc.
Remember that a lot of your decisions have to be made in response to YOUR
process. It differs for each of us. For me, I require an easily moveable
wedging/hand building surface that dries quickly and can easily be changed.
Concrete would not do for me.
Hope that helps,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Jim Bridgeman
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 10:00 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: hardiboard or concrete for wedging
Sorry to revisit a subject that seems to have been covered a lot, but
after searching the archives (new to pottery) I have a few questions.
For those who use hardiboard to wedge or throw slabs on, have you had
any problem with the material cracking with use? What I have seen in
the stores has a smooth side and a somewhat rough side. Do you use the
smooth surface? I am in the process of setting up a small area in a
utility room with a wheel and small area for some handbuilding, wedging,
etc. My other thought is to build a 2x2 wedging table surfaced with
2-3" thick concrete. I have a lot of 2x8's and 2x10 left over from
various projects, so my only expense would be the concrete. If I go the
concrete route, is there any reason to cover with canvas?
Thank you in advance for any thoughts or comments.
Jim
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Paul Borian on sun 18 feb 07
i don't use it for wedging but that stuff makes incredible bats,
especiallys for plates and platters. I throw 8 lb platters on them and they
never crack, nor do plates of any size. But you have to cut them off the
bats immediately after throwing. Any they are not easy to cut, need a
carbide blade to do it, but once you have that out of the way they are
great.
paul
Gayle Bair on sun 18 feb 07
FYI Hardibacker comes in 1/2" also see:
http://www.jameshardie.com/backerboard/homeowner/hardibacker500.php
I use the textured side when wedging and the smooth side for ware board use.
I use the 1/4" for both wedging and ware boards. I have a large piece on a
table
that is against a brick wall on a smaller wedging surface (an old printer
stand) I clamp it to the top.
I broke one of the ware boards the other day but it was saturated and I
leaned on it over a very uneven surface. Other than that I have never had
any issues with them and like their portability and compactness.
Gayle Bair
Tucson AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Of WJ Seidl
Jim:
I use the smooth surfaced side UP. My HardieBoard is backed by 1/2 inch CDX
plywood, as it (the HB itself) is only 1/4 inch thick and would otherwise
crack with my constant pounding on itSnip>
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bridgeman
Sorry to revisit a subject that seems to have been covered a lot, but
after searching the archives (new to pottery) I have a few questions.
For those who use hardiboard to wedge or throw slabs on, have you had
any problem with the material cracking with use? What I have seen in
the stores has a smooth side and a somewhat rough side. Do you use the
smooth surface? I am in the process of setting up a small area in a
utility room with a wheel and small area for some handbuilding, wedging,
etc. snip>
Jennifer Boyer on mon 19 feb 07
Just out of curiosity, why do you have to wire under your pots when
throwing on Hardibacker bats? Don't they absorb moisture (like
plaster bats)so the pots pop off when drying? What goes wrong with
this process?
Jennifer
On Feb 18, 2007, at 12:43 PM, Paul Borian wrote:
> i don't use it for wedging but that stuff makes incredible bats,
> especiallys for plates and platters. I throw 8 lb platters on them
> and they
> never crack, nor do plates of any size. But you have to cut them
> off the
> bats immediately after throwing. Any they are not easy to cut, need a
> carbide blade to do it, but once you have that out of the way they are
> great.
> paul
>
>
*****************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
*****************************
Carole Fox on mon 19 feb 07
On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 10:00:24 -0500, Jim Bridgeman
wrote:
If I go the
>concrete route, is there any reason to cover with canvas?
>
Jim - I wedge on bare concrete. Canvas holds too much dust. I clean the
concrete periodically with water and a stiff brush. Other than that, no
maintenance is needed. Also, the concrete slab is heavy enough that it
does not need to be anchored to the platform that supports it.
Carole Fox
Dayton, OH
Taylor Hendrix on mon 19 feb 07
Sometimes rims are dry and the piece needs to be trimmed before the
bottom pops off the hardiboard bats, especially with plates. This is
true with my thin hardiboard bats. Also, hardiboard had small fibers
that become exposed as the bat ages and these whiskers can cause pots
to stay down when you want them off. I have pulled bulges in pot
bottoms because the bat was taking too long to "pop" off. If you wait
too long to wire off, those hardibats will have made the clay very
very firm, so right after throwing is the best time. If you want, a
good spackling knife can free the firmer pots.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On 2/19/07, Jennifer Boyer wrote:
> Just out of curiosity, why do you have to wire under your pots when
> throwing on Hardibacker bats? Don't they absorb moisture (like
> plaster bats)so the pots pop off when drying? What goes wrong with
> this process?
> Jennifer
Bunny Lemak on tue 20 feb 07
>Sorry to revisit a subject that seems to have been covered a lot, but
>after searching the archives (new to pottery) I have a few questions.
>For those who use hardiboard to wedge or throw slabs on, have you had
>any problem with the material cracking with use?
I too had this question several months ago and received a bunch of answers
and plans for both plaster & hardiboard slabs.
After much thought I decided on going with the hardiboard. Several
reasons: I like to move things around so with the hardiboard you can -
plaster is a little harder! My space is limited so my wedge board also
doubles as a catch-all table if you will.
My husband bought a stand from Ace hardware (it holds table saws etc) and
it is height adjustable. He then put a big piece of wood on top, then mad
2 'L" shape corners where I place my boards (I have one for each of the
different clays I work with). Since we had to buy a huge piece of it, we
still had leftover board, so he then cut a big piece to cover the entire
top as the "catch-all" top. Very easy to remove and use.
Good luck with your choice, it doesn't mater what you have, just as long
as it gets your job done!
Bunny
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