pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sun 18 feb 07
about Janine's question...
Hi Hank,
Oooooo, most helpful and important mention there.
I had in mind that a good coating of ITC would be
on the Fiber, or even on more than one respective
layer of it, ( though I did not say so, ) but
honestly I did not know about or consider the
escaping Gas consideration as a very real hazard.
Would ITC prevent that ?
And, if a 'shell' ( of whatever material, ) were
to block outward movement of vapor, would the
shell then remain 'cool'? Since the gasses 'in'
the Fibre then would be either stagnant, or, at
most, moveing only superficially in only a little
depth of the Fiber...?
Anyway, the Kiln I had in mind to build for
myself, has been envisioned as ITC coated Fiber,
with some light shell or expanded metal shell of
sorts or even a Wood frame and screening or Wire
mesh...but admittedly I had not researched this to
any depth yet.
There is some material, 'white' if memory serve,
which I saw on some Science channel one time years
ago...where they sprayed or painted some of it on
to a piece of cloth or thin cardboard, then set an
Oxy-Acetelyne Torch to it while someone held the
item with their hand close behind it, and with no
problems or disintegration. Was this ITC do you
suppose?
Phil
el v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hank Murrow"
> Dear Phil & Janine;
>
> What Phil says is sort of true, except for the
fact that fiber is
> porous to gases under pressure. A kiln in
reduction contains gases
> under pressure. So the shell of such a kiln
needs to be pretty
> gas-tight. I build mine of 304L stainless steel
16ga sheet with the
> seams sealed with hi-temp silicone, so the only
place gases can escape
> or enter is flue or burner port.
>
> I testified in a civil court trial involving a
fiber kiln that was
> made of expanded metal. Just after they went
into reduction during the
> first firing, a worker passed by the kiln and
got the side of his face
> burned badly from a stream of gases shooting
through the open expanded
> metal shell. The man sued the pottery company,
who countersued the kiln
> design firm, who pointed the finger at the fiber
manufacturer. Not a
> pretty picture, and one that could have been
avoided if the designer
> had accounted for the porosity of the fiber. I
have seen this even in
> kilns with an 8" lining. BTW, I use stainless
because fiber absorbs
> atmospheric moisture, and when you first fire
the kiln this moisture
> condenses on the cold metal wall of the shell.
If built from ordinary
> steel, the shell will erode(rust) from the
inside. One of my kilns went
> through 1052 firings before having the fiber
replaced....... the story
> is on the Ceramics Monthly web site, "The Kiln
of a Thousand Fires", by
> Linda Doherty.
>
> Hope this long response will be helpful.
>
> Cheers, Hank in Eugene
> www.murrow.biz/hank
Hank Murrow on sun 18 feb 07
about Janine's question...
On Feb 18, 2007, at 12:42 PM, pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
> Hi Hank,
>
> Oooooo, most helpful and important mention there.
>
> I had in mind that a good coating of ITC would be
> on the Fiber, or even on more than one respective
> layer of it, ( though I did not say so, ) but
> honestly I did not know about or consider the
> escaping Gas consideration as a very real hazard.
>
> Would ITC prevent that ?
I don't think so, Phil, but I have yet to try ITC on my kilns.
>
> And, if a 'shell' ( of whatever material, ) were
> to block outward movement of vapor, would the
> shell then remain 'cool'? Since the gasses 'in'
> the Fibre then would be either stagnant, or, at
> most, moveing only superficially in only a little
> depth of the Fiber...?
Yes, the shell would run cool. As long as gas penetration through the
porous fiber is prevented, the insulating properties will dominate.
That is, at cone 10, a 6" wall made of 8 pound density fiber compressed
to 12 pounds/cuft will yield a cold surface temperature of 230F. My
kilns run about 215F on the surface.
>
> Anyway, the Kiln I had in mind to build for
> myself, has been envisioned as ITC coated Fiber,
> with some light shell or expanded metal shell of
> sorts or even a Wood frame and screening or Wire
> mesh...but admittedly I had not researched this to
> any depth yet.
Solid sheet material would be my recommendation. Zinc-clad will last a
good long time, but Stainless is king. Epoxy Powder coated
steel(inside) might be a good option....... haven't tried it. When I
started building my Doorless Fiberkiln in 1982, the 304L stainless
steel cost $500/kiln. Nowadays, stainless is more than $2500/kiln.
Pretty much reflecting the rise in the price of cobalt/nickel. So all
we need do is find a low cost, structurally competent(fiber requires
support), 500F proof sheet material that can be sealed with silicone at
the seams and is easily formed.
Let me be the first to know when you find it.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Michael Wendt on sun 18 feb 07
about Janine's question...
Check Enco.com for Stainless Steel foil
tool wrap used for heat treating tool steel.
If you built a fiber kiln with SS foil one layer
in from the outer surface and additional layer at
the outer surface, you could prevent all the gas
plume leakage and still keep the weight and
cost very low.
The SS foil comes in either 50' or 100' rolls
so several people could join together and buy
a roll to share.
For the record, all burning carbon based
fuels create CO2 and H2O as the two main
gases released. If you see steam coming out
of the kiln on a cold day, most of it is from
this.
Hank's mention of the dew point issue is also
very important. The first kiln I built was shelled
with galvanized steel which lasted about 10 years
at 100 firings per year.
Since I replaced the shell with stainless steel,
I have fired 100+ loads/ year for the last
23 years without a hint of trouble due to
corrosion.
Sometimes saving money is a mistake.
You decide.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, ID 83501
USA
208-746-3724
http://www.wendtpottery.com
wendtpot@lewiston.com
Phil wrote:
Hi Hank,
Oooooo, most helpful and important mention there.
I had in mind that a good coating of ITC would be
on the Fiber, or even on more than one respective
layer of it, ( though I did not say so, ) but
honestly I did not know about or consider the
escaping Gas consideration as a very real hazard.
Would ITC prevent that ?
And, if a 'shell' ( of whatever material, ) were
to block outward movement of vapor, would the
shell then remain 'cool'? Since the gasses 'in'
the Fibre then would be either stagnant, or, at
most, moveing only superficially in only a little
depth of the Fiber...?
Anyway, the Kiln I had in mind to build for
myself, has been envisioned as ITC coated Fiber,
with some light shell or expanded metal shell of
sorts or even a Wood frame and screening or Wire
mesh...but admittedly I had not researched this to
any depth yet.
There is some material, 'white' if memory serve,
which I saw on some Science channel one time years
ago...where they sprayed or painted some of it on
to a piece of cloth or thin cardboard, then set an
Oxy-Acetelyne Torch to it while someone held the
item with their hand close behind it, and with no
problems or disintegration. Was this ITC do you
suppose?
Phil
Hank Murrow on sun 18 feb 07
about Janine's question...
Dear Michael;
Your idea is well worth a trial, and I hope someone decides to do it. I
would only worry about how to seal the stainless foil inside of the
regular or zinc-coated steel.
And don't forget the 8% water vapor IN natural gas.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
On Feb 18, 2007, at 2:27 PM, Michael Wendt wrote:
> Check Enco.com for Stainless Steel foil
> tool wrap used for heat treating tool steel.
> If you built a fiber kiln with SS foil one layer
> in from the outer surface and additional layer at
> the outer surface, you could prevent all the gas
> plume leakage and still keep the weight and
> cost very low.
> The SS foil comes in either 50' or 100' rolls
> so several people could join together and buy
> a roll to share.
> For the record, all burning carbon based
> fuels create CO2 and H2O as the two main
> gases released. If you see steam coming out
> of the kiln on a cold day, most of it is from
> this.
> Hank's mention of the dew point issue is also
> very important. The first kiln I built was shelled
> with galvanized steel which lasted about 10 years
> at 100 firings per year.
> Since I replaced the shell with stainless steel,
> I have fired 100+ loads/ year for the last
> 23 years without a hint of trouble due to
> corrosion.
> Sometimes saving money is a mistake.
> You decide.
>
Hank Murrow on mon 19 feb 07
On Feb 19, 2007, at 7:28 PM, Ivor and Olive Lewis wrote:
> Although Stainless Steel sheet is used to make the exterior walls of
> some kilns and shim may be used to act as a protective sheath when
> heat treating Alloy tools do not forget some varieties of this alloy
> are rapidly attacked by superheated steam at elevated temperatures.
>
> The suggestion of using it to make an impervious kiln wall has merit
> but may not be practical. When working in Scotland I saw a wonderful
> example of the corrosion resistance of 18/8 stainless. In contact with
> fermenting Whisky Mash, there were corrosion track lines about 10 mm
> either side of every welded seam. The welds were pristine, but the
> main metal failed due to electrolytic corrosion where there was
> carbide precipitation. Always select Stabilised Stainless.
Dear Ivor;
It has been done, and since 1982. My Doorless Fiberkiln (See
http://www.ceramicsmonthly.org/mustreads/shinofire.asp ..scrolling
down to the kiln article).
One of these kilns recently reached the 1052 firing mark and I and my
fabricator, James Laub, restored it with an upgraded fiber lining. You
can read about this at the Ceramics Monthly website(see "The Kiln of a
Thousand Fires", by Linda Doherty). We found no corrosion on the
stainless steel at all. We now expect that this kiln, which is fired 60
times a year to cone 10_11, will easily go another thousand firings or
more.
$14,000, special SiC 'ladder' furniture = $2000, minor repair = $1000,
and fuel costs for 1052 cone 10_11 fires = $17,000. Total costs for
1052 fires = $34,000........ and capital cost now paid for and it is
ready to serve another 20 years.
No brag(well, a little), just fact. Not looking to build more, with
twenty out there working hard...... I prefer to use the heck out of my
own. Clay is much more fun to work with.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on mon 19 feb 07
about Janine's question...
Hi Hank,
What fun..
I was figuring to take the crash-course once I am
moved and have a place to keep a Kiln...to build
one then.
Fun to be discussing some of it now of course...
Below...amid...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hank Murrow"
> On Feb 18, 2007, at 12:42 PM, pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET
wrote:
>
> > Hi Hank,
> >
> > Oooooo, most helpful and important mention
there.
> >
> > I had in mind that a good coating of ITC would
be
> > on the Fiber, or even on more than one
respective
> > layer of it, ( though I did not say so, ) but
> > honestly I did not know about or consider the
> > escaping Gas consideration as a very real
hazard.
> >
> > Would ITC prevent that ?
> I don't think so, Phil, but I have yet to try
ITC on my kilns.
Seems I recall favorable reports respecting the
use of ITC on Fiber....
> > And, if a 'shell' ( of whatever material, )
were
> > to block outward movement of vapor, would the
> > shell then remain 'cool'? Since the gasses
'in'
> > the Fibre then would be either stagnant, or,
at
> > most, moveing only superficially in only a
little
> > depth of the Fiber...?
> Yes, the shell would run cool. As long as gas
penetration through the
> porous fiber is prevented, the insulating
properties will dominate.
So, prospectively, or in Theory maybe, in addition
to
ITC coated fiber, one could use a thin Stainless
Steel or other durable-enough ( even Aluminum? )
'foil', and, or, even something like1/4 inch
Masonite, coated with
ITC, as the outermost layer or shell skin, and,
even, have a Wooden Frame for the whole...
Or, at least this would be an interesting
experiment to see...and or this is what I would
most likely try myself.
I am a Cabinetmaker after all...
Lol...
So I would of course wish TO make a Wooden ^ 10
Kiln-Baby if possible...with Wood or Paper or thin
non-metal 'skin' Panels...just to see if I could
do it...
> That is, at cone 10, a 6" wall made of 8 pound
density fiber compressed
> to 12 pounds/cuft will yield a cold surface
temperature of 230F. My
> kilns run about 215F on the surface.
Does compressing the fiber reduce the effective
insulating properties? Or?
Can one use multiple ( say one inch or two inch )
layers OF such Fiber, and in addition, apply ITC
to the various layers surfaces themselves? In
order to increase the ultimatge insulating and
Vapor inhibiting properties?
I should think one could get the surface skin
temps to be less, maybe even a lot less...maybe
even 'Like a Baby's Breath'...
> > Anyway, the Kiln I had in mind to build for
> > myself, has been envisioned as ITC coated
Fiber,
> > with some light shell or expanded metal shell
of
> > sorts or even a Wood frame and screening or
Wire
> > mesh...but admittedly I had not researched
this to
> > any depth yet.
> Solid sheet material would be my recommendation.
Zinc-clad will last a
> good long time, but Stainless is king. Epoxy
Powder coated
> steel(inside) might be a good option.......
haven't tried it. When I
> started building my Doorless Fiberkiln in 1982,
the 304L stainless
> steel cost $500/kiln. Nowadays, stainless is
more than $2500/kiln.
> Pretty much reflecting the rise in the price of
cobalt/nickel.
Yes, there is likely as much as fourty three cents
"more" in cost for the Cobalt and Nickle elements
in the alloy for a few sheets of Stainless, and,
of course, the bastards rake you over the coals
while they spend millions on new corporate
headquarters and CEO's hundredmillionseverance
packages and endless waste and inefficiency in
general, and so on.
I got their number, and they don't fool me one
iota...
Bastards...
But anyhooo...
One could Nitride plain thin Steel sheeting, or
use some other Rust preventing measures...or,
for that matter, use sheet Brass or sheet
Copper...or, for all I know, ITC the hell out of
simple Pasteboard or heavy Paper, and call it good
enough.
Thin Sheet Copper would be pretty...especially if
the Skin
were rivetted to the Frame and the Frame made of
say Angle Iron which has been Nitrided or
'Parkerized' or whatever
other process for eliminating it's tendency to
rust...or, hi-heat black Paint even, for the
frame...
Copper Rievets, Black or medium Gray Iron
frame...plain or treated Copper sheeting for the
skin, be very fetching...
> So all
> we need do is find a low cost, structurally
competent(fiber requires
> support), 500F proof sheet material that can be
sealed with silicone at
> the seams and is easily formed.
This would vary with the Frame I suppose, as for
how it seals and or attatches...in a Wooden frame,
the Sheet Metal Panels could simply nail in
through
their small right angle bent lips, rather as
Automobile Body work was once done, or, sit nicely
in
grooves with a nailed in keeper...or rivet to
Metal cross pieces, or...
Lotsa ways...I s'pose, depengind on the Frame that
holds them...
The 'red' Silicone is the High-Heat sort if memory
serve...which could be elected just for good
measure...
> Let me be the first to know when you find it.
>
> Cheers, Hank
>
> www.murrow.biz/hank
I wish I could start making one today!
I am sure in the mood now, but I have other things
to do for the time being...so...oh well. I sure
will enjoy it when I get there anyway...
Thanks!
Phil
el v
Michael Wendt on mon 19 feb 07
about Janine's question...
Hank,
I found a way to build the drum style
Raku kiln from the inside out.
I got a 55 gallon paper barrel.
I marked and cut 3" holes around
the perimeter at regular intervals
for the anchor buttons to fit into.
Once complete, we fired it to remove
the paper barrel before we used it
to fire pottery. Smokey, but effective.
Since the kiln I was making was to
be 24" tall, a single roll of Kaowool
was wrapped around the drum with
care.
Strapping was placed around the outside
to keep the Kaowool in place until the
expanded metal jacket could be installed.
Were I doing it again, I would get the SS
tool wrap and place a sheet around the
strapping and double fold the seam.
Where the top sat on it I would join
two sheets by double folding a seam
and mold the SS wrap down over the
walls to complete the seal there.
It is completely moldable like aluminum
foil but has either an 1800 degree limit
for one kind or a 2000 degree limit for
the other kind and since this would be at
the cold face, there is little chance of
exceeding the temperature limits.
The reason I thought of a sandwiched layer
had to do with improved insulation.
It was found that Kaowool's main mode
of heat transfer at high temperatures is
visible radiation and the 1" of added
barrier with an opaque layer of SS wrap
would add a lot of insulation value by
blocking that visible radiation transmission.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, ID 83501
USA
208-746-3724
http://www.wendtpottery.com
wendtpot@lewiston.com
Hank wrote:
Dear Michael;
Your idea is well worth a trial, and I hope someone
decides to do it. I
would only worry about how to seal the stainless foil
inside of the
regular or zinc-coated steel.
And don't forget the 8% water vapor IN natural gas.
Cheers, Hank
Hank Murrow on mon 19 feb 07
about Janine's question...
On Feb 19, 2007, at 6:20 AM, Michael Wendt wrote:
> Hank,
> I found a way to build the drum style
> Raku kiln from the inside out.
> I got a 55 gallon paper barrel.
> I marked and cut 3" holes around
> the perimeter at regular intervals
> for the anchor buttons to fit into.
> Once complete, we fired it to remove
> the paper barrel before we used it
> to fire pottery. Smokey, but effective.
> Since the kiln I was making was to
> be 24" tall, a single roll of Kaowool
> was wrapped around the drum with
> care.
> Strapping was placed around the outside
> to keep the Kaowool in place until the
> expanded metal jacket could be installed.
> Were I doing it again, I would get the SS
> tool wrap and place a sheet around the
> strapping and double fold the seam.
> Where the top sat on it I would join
> two sheets by double folding a seam
> and mold the SS wrap down over the
> walls to complete the seal there.
> It is completely moldable like aluminum
> foil but has either an 1800 degree limit
> for one kind or a 2000 degree limit for
> the other kind and since this would be at
> the cold face, there is little chance of
> exceeding the temperature limits.
Alas, what works for a raku kiln I fear would be severely tested in a
cone 10 application. Such would not test the temperature limit, but the
requirement of really making the foil lining gas tight. Under
reduction, I have seen several fiber kilns which allowed almost a
blowtorch effect where the shell was not sealed. Air infiltration is
not nearly the problem that gas exfiltration is with fiber at high
temperatures and with reduction pressures.
> The reason I thought of a sandwiched layer
> had to do with improved insulation.
> It was found that Kaowool's main mode
> of heat transfer at high temperatures is
> visible radiation and the 1" of added
> barrier with an opaque layer of SS wrap
> would add a lot of insulation value by
> blocking that visible radiation transmission.
Yet another great idea from the fertile mind of Michael Wendt.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Lee Love on tue 20 feb 07
Considering the price of stainless an the need for special
equipment, has anybody ever made a reinforced castable shell that you
line with fiber?
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Lee Love on tue 20 feb 07
about Janine's question...
Maybe a castable liner would make more sense, with a fiber jacket.
Then you could vapor fire in it.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Lee Love on tue 20 feb 07
about Janine's question...
....or, double walled castable sandwiching fiber?
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
Hank Murrow on tue 20 feb 07
about Janine's question...
On Feb 19, 2007, at 9:36 PM, pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
>
> Does compressing the fiber reduce the effective
> insulating properties? Or?
Actually, the best insulating quality is obtained at 123 density, So I
compress the 18" fiber modules to 12"......... giving me a finished 12#
module.
>
> Can one use multiple ( say one inch or two inch )
> layers OF such Fiber, and in addition, apply ITC
> to the various layers surfaces themselves? In
> order to increase the ultimatge insulating and
> Vapor inhibiting properties?
The ITC will not inhibit gaseous penetration. It will reflect energy
back to the interior. A coating on the hot face would be effective, but
would also stiffen the fiber. I prefer a naked fiber surface. I do not
recommend 'layered construction with fiber. Instead, I recommend folded
blanket modules to prevent any channels up through which hot gases
could travel. If you want the gaseous barrier, make a gas-tight shell.
>
> I should think one could get the surface skin
> temps to be less, maybe even a lot less...maybe
> even 'Like a Baby's Breath'...
At 6" module thickness it is around 225F, at 8" thickness it is 205F,
at 10" thickness it is 193F. If I were to re-engineer the entire kiln
and build new jigs, etc; I would build it with an 8" module thickness.
>
>
> Copper Rievets, Black or medium Gray Iron
> frame...plain or treated Copper sheeting for the
> skin, be very fetching...
And the steel could get the 'blueing' treatment........ like a fine
shotgun!
Cheers, hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Hank Murrow on tue 20 feb 07
about Janine's question...
On Feb 19, 2007, at 9:36 PM, pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
>
> Does compressing the fiber reduce the effective
> insulating properties? Or?
Actually, the best insulating quality is obtained at 12#/cuft density,
So I compress the 18" fiber modules to 12"......... giving me a
finished 12#/cuft module.
That is the corrected version.......... hank
Taylor Hendrix on tue 20 feb 07
I like this idea Lee. What could be used to ancor the fiber to the
inside? Sodium silicate? imbeded fiber clips?
On 2/19/07, Lee Love wrote:
> Considering the price of stainless an the need for special
> equipment, has anybody ever made a reinforced castable shell that you
> line with fiber?
Taylor, in Rockport TX
Michael Wendt on tue 20 feb 07
Taylor and Lee,
I have made kilns the opposite:
The inner liner is thin IFB with
the Kaowool on the outside.
It all started with a Minnesota study
of earth bermed houses.
They noted that putting the best R
value on the outside resulted in a huge
savings over time because of the
thermal flywheel effect.
I used 1.25" thick IFB "C" forms to
line the hot face and filled the hollow
part of the "C" with Kaowool.
The brick provides the needed
mechanical strength while the Kaowool
provides the insulation.
Why couldn't we do the same with castable
refractory? Make a sacrificial inner form and
a removable outer form. Once cast, the outer
part of the shell would be covered with Kaowool
and then a thin metal shell to eliminate the dusting
of fibers.
Here again, the liner would provide the needed
structure while the fiber would be the insulation.
In the extreme, use 12 LB density for the innermost
layers, 8 LB density for the middle layers and 6 LB
for the outer layers.
Anyone care to try this idea?
A thin candy shell.
Delicious Kaowool filling,
A stainless case to finish the job.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, ID 83501
USA
208-746-3724
http://www.wendtpottery.com
wendtpot@lewiston.com
Taylor wtote:
I like this idea Lee. What could be used to ancor the
fiber to the
inside? Sodium silicate? imbeded fiber clips?
On 2/19/07, Lee Love wrote:
> Considering the price of stainless an the need
for special
> equipment, has anybody ever made a reinforced
castable shell that you
> line with fiber?
Taylor, in Rockport TX
Ivor and Olive Lewis on tue 20 feb 07
Although Stainless Steel sheet is used to make the exterior walls of =
some kilns and shim may be used to act as a protective sheath when heat =
treating Alloy tools do not forget some varieties of this alloy are =
rapidly attacked by superheated steam at elevated temperatures.
The suggestion of using it to make an impervious kiln wall has merit but =
may not be practical. When working in Scotland I saw a wonderful example =
of the corrosion resistance of 18/8 stainless. In contact with =
fermenting Whisky Mash, there were corrosion track lines about 10 mm =
either side of every welded seam. The welds were pristine, but the main =
metal failed due to electrolytic corrosion where there was carbide =
precipitation. Always select Stabilised Stainless.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
Lee Love on wed 21 feb 07
On 2/21/07, Michael Wendt wrote:
> Why couldn't we do the same with castable
> refractory? Make a sacrificial inner form and
> a removable outer form. Once cast, the outer
> part of the shell would be covered with Kaowool
> and then a thin metal shell to eliminate the dusting
> of fibers.
Cantenary might be the way to go. And with a castable inner
structure, you really don't need stainless on the outside. What
Genevive has on top of her layer of fiber blanket on the top her arch
is soft painted steel that they use for roofing here. Very
inexpensive. My fiberblanket isn't covered yet but I plan on putting
the same on mine.
I am all ears because I need to build a kiln eventually,
to work in Minneapolis.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
gsomdahl on wed 21 feb 07
Lee Love wrote:
>
> Cantenary might be the way to go. And with a castable inner
> structure, you really don't need stainless on the outside. What
> Genevive has on top of her layer of fiber blanket on the top her arch
> is soft painted steel that they use for roofing here. Very
> inexpensive. My fiberblanket isn't covered yet but I plan on putting
> the same on mine.
I've wondered if it is possible to foam castable the same way that
concrete can be foamed. If you can it would be very light weight with
great insulating properties. The main issue would be whether or not it
could take the thermal stress of a kiln structure.
--
This is a post only account. Send replies to "gene" at my ".com" domain named "somdahl".
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