Lois Ruben Aronow on fri 9 feb 07
Great post. Everyone likes to share their success, but it takes brass
cajones to take pride in your mishaps.
We all need to remember that your learn little from your "successes", and
EVERYTHING from your mistakes.
..Lo
Lois Ruben Aronow Ceramics
232 Third Street - # B202A
Brooklyn, NY 11215
p: 917..561..2854
f: 718..246.0819
www.loisaronow.com
www.craftsofthedamned.blogspot.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Taylor Hendrix
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 5:43 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Carved bowl RIP
Well, well, well,
I have been having so much fun this last week or so that I just couldn't
bring myself to give the update on that large, carved bowl I had been
working on for the show. Glad I had a back up pot. This posting in for all
the other newbies out there. Read and learn somthing.
I did almost everything wrong with this bowl and the result was a beautiful
example of dunting and moisture blow out.
My first and biggest mistake was to throw a piece that would not properly
fit in my kiln. I was unable to set it inside the kiln posts and as a result
I had to place it on the top shelf near the lid. This is a cool place in the
kiln and subject to faster cooling.
In loading the bowl, I enlisted the help of a previously bisqued bowl just a
bit smaller. This facilitated loading the bowl and might I hoped help slow
down the cooling of the bowl's rim. What I realize now is that nesting the
bowl might have just helped keep the bottom hot while allowing that large
rim to cool quickly.
The bowl also sat on my greenware table for about a month before I tried to
bisque it. That is not a problem in and of itself; however, the weather just
before bisquing was rainy and very damp for over a week. Hammer I believe
talks about reaDsorption of moisture from the atmosphere. I think that is
why the foot area had a fantastic blowout.
Rubble when I lifted out the bowl.
Because I was needing to bisque other pices for my saggar firing, the bisque
endpoint was cone 012, a very soft bisque. The bowl, as a result, didn't
have sufficient bisque strength to withstand the cooling forces that
eventually dunted it.
Lessons to remember:
1. Be very mindful of your setting space when throwing forms. Know your
maximum dimentions BETWEEN posts. This can allow a shelf above to act as a
heat sink helping to slow cooling of the pieces below.
2. Do use your setting to help protect pieces from rapid, uneaven cooling.
3. Be aware that greenware can pick moisture up from the atmosphere and
might need a long presoak to drive off excess water.
4. Depending on your processes, bisque as high as is possible to give the
pots structural strength in the bisque.
Permission to laugh.
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
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Taylor Hendrix on fri 9 feb 07
Well, well, well,
I have been having so much fun this last week or so that I just
couldn't bring myself to give the update on that large, carved bowl I
had been working on for the show. Glad I had a back up pot. This
posting in for all the other newbies out there. Read and learn
somthing.
I did almost everything wrong with this bowl and the result was a
beautiful example of dunting and moisture blow out.
My first and biggest mistake was to throw a piece that would not
properly fit in my kiln. I was unable to set it inside the kiln posts
and as a result I had to place it on the top shelf near the lid. This
is a cool place in the kiln and subject to faster cooling.
In loading the bowl, I enlisted the help of a previously bisqued bowl
just a bit smaller. This facilitated loading the bowl and might I
hoped help slow down the cooling of the bowl's rim. What I realize now
is that nesting the bowl might have just helped keep the bottom hot
while allowing that large rim to cool quickly.
The bowl also sat on my greenware table for about a month before I
tried to bisque it. That is not a problem in and of itself; however,
the weather just before bisquing was rainy and very damp for over a
week. Hammer I believe talks about reaDsorption of moisture from the
atmosphere. I think that is why the foot area had a fantastic blowout.
Rubble when I lifted out the bowl.
Because I was needing to bisque other pices for my saggar firing, the
bisque endpoint was cone 012, a very soft bisque. The bowl, as a
result, didn't have sufficient bisque strength to withstand the
cooling forces that eventually dunted it.
Lessons to remember:
1. Be very mindful of your setting space when throwing forms. Know
your maximum dimentions BETWEEN posts. This can allow a shelf above to
act as a heat sink helping to slow cooling of the pieces below.
2. Do use your setting to help protect pieces from rapid, uneaven cooling.
3. Be aware that greenware can pick moisture up from the atmosphere
and might need a long presoak to drive off excess water.
4. Depending on your processes, bisque as high as is possible to give
the pots structural strength in the bisque.
Permission to laugh.
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
sacredclay on sat 10 feb 07
-Taylor, ROTFLMFAO! You're still the best! Trust me, some of us have
done that. I just won't admit to it, though! "But I meant it to
happen that way, dammit!" warmly,Kathryn in NC
>>
> Permission to laugh.
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______
> __
> Send postings to clayart@...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@...
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_________
> Send postings to clayart@...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@...
>
Lee Love on sun 11 feb 07
I bisque way below 012. So does Shimaoka, especially in the
noborigama. I have never seen dunting problems in my work or
Shimaoka's.
We have trouble with work drying here in Japan during
rainy season especially. When the sun comes out, we take advantage
of it and the breeze to help dry things out.
Could y your kiln being too small, no5 protecting the pot
from uneven heating. Would it have worked better to put a bisqued
pot down, foot up, and then the carved pot on top of that with the
foot being the highest part of the pot? Boy, photos really help
illustrate problems, if you have them.
Can you make smaller ones next time?
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts." -
Henry David Thoreau
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
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