nils lou on tue 26 sep 06
As usual, mel is almost right. itc 100 does help with thermocouples, BUT=20
ITC213 is specifically formulated for METAL and will immortalize your=20
thermocouple. Coat the tip or the whole thing. Coat the tripping device in=20
the shut-off mechanism in your electric kiln. Above all, coat any new=20
elements if you want them to last forever. Ask mel for process to prepare=20
for coating. He knows. If you want to increase your gas mileage by 10% coat =
the exhaust manifold, exhaust pipe, and muffler on your car. works! nils
--On Tuesday, September 26, 2006 12:00 AM -0400 Automatic digest processor=20
wrote:
> There are 67 messages totalling 2971 lines in this issue.
>
> Topics of the day:
>
> 1. amphorae and rhytons + Faience
> 2. Machinery questions for experienced peter puggers (2)
> 3. Pate de Verre conference postponed
> 4. POTTERY EQUIPMENT AND STUDIO FOR SALE
> 5. amphorae - which way do they sit
> 6. Forgot to sign pots! (4)
> 7. Reving up naked bisque
> 8. amphorae and rhytons (2)
> 9. U. P kiln construction and Halloween fun
> 10. small raku kiln (3)
> 11. Kiln repair help needed (2)
> 12. Clay body for making bricks -technology
> 13. back on clayart and in Texas!! (3)
> 14. Clayboss Status
> 15. Amphora
> 16. Kiln repair in NYC?
> 17. Help with Emerald Green Glaze on Dark Clay Body (2)
> 18. What vacuum??? (2)
> 19. four days with Richard Aerni -- wow
> 20. Texturing pots
> 21. kiln repair tip (4)
> 22. Calendars are coming! :)
> 23. Pointy-bottomed coffee cups (3)
> 24. Mystery of the Black Sand
> 25. shino and celadon gurus - please advise! (2)
> 26. new member
> 27. amphorae
> 28. baby slap and itc/rims
> 29. itc/rims (3)
> 30. skinny rimmy lip tips (2)
> 31. itc and crumble bricks
> 32. car kilnn??? (3)
> 33. Lee Middleman
> 34. Celedon For Woodkilns (2)
> 35. reposting....new member (2)
> 36. back on clayart and in Texas!! and a moving experience....
> 37. flat top stack question
> 38. brown ^10 reduction?
> 39. Richard Aerni links
> 40. Can't post to clayart.....
> 41. Sea Shells
> 42. clayart instructions/read and save please
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> _____ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 20:02:58 -0700
> From: claybair
> Subject: Re: amphorae and rhytons + Faience
>
> Vince,
> Check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faience
> if they have it wrong you can edit the page.
>
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> Tucson, AZ
> http://claybair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Vince
> Pitelka
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:37 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: amphorae and rhytons
>
>
>> " Amphora" is a collective general name for all kinds of
>> Greek shapes. There are crater amphorae, arybellos, column crater
>> amphorae, neck amphorae, volute krater amphorae,calyx krater, hydria,
>> neck and amphorae of Panathenaeic shape. And a few more. A rhyton is
>> a name for a specifically shaped amphora, sometimes pointed,
>> sometimes with a rounded bottom. It would generally have two, three,
>> five or seven handles.
>
> But Rogier, if you go online as I suggested and research the term
> "rhyton," you will see that it specifically refers to the horn-shaped
> drinking vessel, often with molded animal imagery. There are all sorts
> of examples of art historians and archaeologists who have misused local
> terminology, and the fact that some highly respected older texts
> misapplied the terms "amphora" or "rhyton" and used them in an
> overly-generalized fashion is no reason that we should continue to do
> that today.
>
> There are so many similar examples. You find numerous art historians
> referring to the red or black "glaze" on Greek pottery, when it is not a
> glaze, but a terra sigillata. You find regular reference to Egyptian
> "faience," when in fact ancient glazed Egyptian ceramic items are either
> Egyptian paste, or are glazed with a clear alkaline glaze that is clearly
> not a faience glaze. There are too many examples where this kind of
> misuse of terminology has just been accepted, and I think it is our
> responsibility to try to use the language correctly when we can. In some
> case, the misuse simply becomes an accepted part of the lexicon, and at a
> certain point there isn't anything that can be done. That's probably the
> case with "Egyptian faience," but let's at least use the terms "amphora"
> and "rhyton" correctly. Is that a reasonable request?
>
> I hope that didn't sound too much like a rant. It's really impossible to
> absolutely define "proper" use of the terminology, but I think we can at
> least work towards clarity in use and meaning.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
> Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
> vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> ___ __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
>
> --
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 22:51:16 -0400
> From: Ivy Glasgow
> Subject: Re: Machinery questions for experienced peter puggers
>
>>
>> From: "Ivy Glasgow"
>> How loud are these things supposed to be? Like,
>>> weed-wacker loud, lawnmower loud, Bobcat loud or bulldozer loud?
>>
>> This one I cannot do as it is so old, my new one is fairly quiet,
>>
>> Does the hopper have to be locked
>>> down in order for the machine to work right, or will it stay closed
>>> even if not locked?
>>
>> The door does not have to be locked - if it is like the modern ones
>> there is a safety cut out that engages with the door closed so that you
>> cannot get your fingers in - this might be worth checking. When it is
>> turning open the door and see when it cuts out. However when mixing it
>> is likely that the clay will try to push the door open, you can hold it
>> down though or if a vacuum model give it a squirt of vacuum.
>
> Thanks for the info. Looks like this one is so old that it doesn't have
> the safety shut-off or a vacuum. I think I'd better wait for mixing till
> I can get the door lock thingie. Probably between myself and my ingenious
> neighbor's welding rig I can fab one up tomorrow.
>
> I opened the motor box and looked in there today. I found that the fan =
was
> rubbing on the fan housing, contributing most of the amazing amount of
> noise. I fixed that, and now it is more like roller-coaster loud. The
> bearings and chain look old and greasy but seem to be in OK condition. If
> all this thing really needs is a door thingie and a new plug, I'm going =
to
> be laughing all the way to the bank....!
>
> -Ivy G
> (Potter/Welder)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 23:09:52 -0400
> From: "L. P. Skeen"
> Subject: Re: Pate de Verre conference postponed
>
> Hey Gregg,
>
> I definitely agree that cancelling or postponing a conference is way =3D
> better than having one that is poorly organized and attended. That =3D
> said, if they are looking to hire clay-minded folks at ACERs, a job =3D
> posting here would not be a bad idea either. :) I have no idea what =3D
> Pate de Verre is, but I hope for those who are interested, that it can =
=3D
> be re-organized for a future date. :)
>
> L
>
> ----- Original Message -----=3D20
> From: Earth and Fire Pottery=3D20
> For these reasons, the Potters Council board felt it would be best to =
=3D
> postpone it until next year rather then go ahead and have a poorly =3D
> organized and presented conference.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 20:45:59 -0700
> From: Beverlin's Rare
> Subject: POTTERY EQUIPMENT AND STUDIO FOR SALE
>
> I am located in North Central Missouri. Every last
> thing in the studio is for sale. Walker Pugmill 600.
> Wheels Creative Industries 600. Pacifica orginal 500.
> Slab Roller North Star Super Duty 30 inch 600. Scott
> Creek Extruder, expandsion box and all the dies 450.
> Tile press without air compressor but everything else
> I have on hand for making the molds, the frames, the
> special plaster, air line etc for 600. I have loads
> of chemicals as well you name I have it at 20 percent
> off any current published price. I have corks, and
> pumps, candles, wax, it all goes. So if you have a
> need let me know I probably have it.
>
> Have a super sunshine day and respond off site at
> rarearthpottery@yahoo.com
>
> darlene
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 21:53:26 -0700
> From: Richard Mahaffey
> Subject: amphorae - which way do they sit
>
> Why pointed bottoms?
> One of the classes I teach is Art Appreciation and I teach it as a drive
> by video of Art history with a world view, I have seen (and shown) a
> slide of a fresco painting in a house in Ancient Rome that shows four
> amphorae sitting an a table that has holes in it so the pots sit upright.
>
> Also in Turkey in an Cavaransarai in central Anatolia I have seen
> amphorae sitting in a stone slab that has holes in it so that the jars
> sit upright.
> Classes start tomorrow and I will look to see if I can find the image of
> the fresco painting to post somewhere, and I will look for the digital
> image from my trip to Turkey as well, when I get time. Tomorrow, and
> all of the week is sure to be a time of "Can I add your class?" Where
> is the science building, where is the IT building, etc.
>
> your mileage may vary,
> Rick
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 15:10:00 +0900
> From: Lee Love
> Subject: Re: Forgot to sign pots!
>
> At the MingeiSota show opening I attended in Nikko in 1998, a guy
> asked me to sign the bottom of two pots, one purchased by him and the
> other by his friend (a casserol and a Jizo bud vase.) He wanted
> these two pieces signed with a Sharpie, even though they were both
> stamped.
>
> Hey, check my ebay sale out:
>
> =
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=3D001&item=3D110037356383
>
> --
>
> Lee in Mashiko, Japan
> http://potters.blogspot.com/
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 03:58:49 -0500
> From: Taylor Hendrix
> Subject: Reving up naked bisque
>
> Okay,
>
> Just a week before I leave for AZ. One more little question: What can
> i do to kick my naked bisque up a notch for some crusty firings? I
> have done about all the glazing i am going to do here at home, but I
> do have a few bisque pieces that might look good naked. I'm just
> worried that the bagged clay I used is going to be just blah in the
> firings.
>
> Cone 011 firing just went off. I'll let eveyone know if my glazes
> sintered on the pots.
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
>
> http://clayartmugshots.blogspot.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:32:23 +0100
> From: Roly Beevor
> Subject: Re: amphorae and rhytons
>
> Vince Pitelka wrote:
>
>> But Rogier, if you go online as I suggested and research the term
>> "rhyton," you will see that it specifically refers to the horn-shaped
>> drinking
> vessel,
>> often with molded animal imagery.
>
> Boys!
>
> I think if you look up the etymology of the word you will find that =
rhyton
> means liquid (and is the root for words like stream and rheumatism) and
> hence is used for a vessel for liquid. So you are both right and both
> wrong.
>
> Roly
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 06:17:52 -0500
> From: Gary Navarre
> Subject: U. P kiln construction and Halloween fun
>
> Hay Crew,
>
> Now the fun part, trying to lag in brick and it is getting colder out.
> Rick and Willy got me to redo the floor and bring it up to a new level
> after some slumping of the gravel. Once we get some good sized bolders
> down below the pignose it should hold back the gravel and allow for
> settling. I hope it works. My planets must have been lined up pretty good
> because I lagged the first brick on the night of the Equanox which is
> supposed to be auspicious for some reason. I call that brick "Bonnie
> Staffle's Brick" cause of some help she gave me a while ago. I won't
> forget the help and encouragement from the rest of you and who knows your
> brick may be named too. It's started in
>
> http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/hbgma06ac/
>
> There are also a couple of short subjects I put on YouTube. "Sompin Ta
> Think About" is mostly thinkin out loud after Olof took me for a walk.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJUHhdxu1Fao
>
> And this is some fun I couldn't resist while setting up for Halloween
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DAIh8mlfXzzo
>
> I'm havin too much fun trying to scare the hell out of some kids too and
> it's not working. Wuhu, what da heck, eh, at least they still have a
> laugh. Doesn't need to get any better than this but it probably will,
> stay in there!
>
> G in Da UP
> Navarre Pottery
> Navarre Enterprises
> Norway, Michigan, USA
> http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/
> http://www.youtube.com/user/GindaUP
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 06:37:41 -0500
> From: "Brenda G. Anderson"
> Subject: small raku kiln
>
> I am ready to take the big step to raku and the great outdoors.
>
> I want to build a small raku kiln for tiles and small items. Some =3D
> wonderful local potters, Val Webb and John Rezner, have given me some =3D
> ideas.=3D20
>
> Does anyone have specific instructions for a kiln? Do I use fire bricks =
=3D
> or ceramic fiber for outdoors? I am using bricks for the outer layer. =
=3D
> Do I put in a pyrometer or just guess it for the first few times? =3D
> Remember it is small and gas fired.
>
> Any specific instructions (I need step by step) would be greatly =3D
> appreciated.
>
> Brenda G. Anderson
> Daughter of Clay Pottery
> (yes, my late father's name was Clay)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 12:44:43 +0100
> From: Steve Mills
> Subject: Re: Kiln repair help needed
>
> Dear Anne,
>
> Wetting the brick prior to applying cement will help, though there are
> brick cements that do not require the pre-wetting.
> Sairset is not one of those, so the brick sucks out the moisture and
> defeats the process.
>
> Places where elements have burned out and left a dark patch need to be
> scraped back to plain brick, as the dark patch contains element residue
> and could cause another burn-out.
>
> Better safe than sorry!
>
> Best.
>
> Steve
> Bath
> UK
>
>
> In message , Anne Wellings writes
>> I need some answers for a friend who is replacing all the elements in =
her
>> electric kiln and wants to deal with some damaged bricks at the same
>> time. The first problem is that she is trying to re-cement chunks of =
soft
>> brick that have broken away, and is using Sairset to do so, but is =
having
>> trouble getting it to work. It does not seem to allow the pieces to =
stick
>> together, and she has tried thinning it with water, and will try wetting
>> the brick first. Any ideas on this or better products to use?
>>
>> The other problem is that where an element burned out, there is a dark
>> discolored area in the brick that has become very hard. She wonders
>> whether this area, when it comes in contact with the new element, is
>> likely to cause it to burn out. I found a post in the archives that
>> mentioned a similar-sounding discolored area and said it should be
>> chipped out with a screwdriver and that it could burn out the new
>> element. But my friend said there is another similar, though maybe
>> smaller, spot in the kiln that has not burned out an element thus far. =
If
>> this spot sounds like a big problem for the future of the new element,
>> then she's thinking she may have to replace the brick.
>>
>> Any thoughts on this situation are appreciated.
>>
>> Anne
>
> --
> Steve Mills
> Bath
> UK
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 12:45:45 +0000
> From: Rick Hamelin
> Subject: Re: Clay body for making bricks -technology
>
> Patrick and Vince,
> Patrick, if there is a "struck" side on one flat, laying side of your
> brick where clay was scraped away, leaving lines with a sand faced layer
> on the opposite side, perhaps your brick is pre-1870 although hand-struck
> bricks were made regionally even into the 20th century. If it is thinner
> and smaller than conventional bricks it could be pre-1850 with the
> thinnest bricks being 18th c. Vince, colonial and early American masons
> new the value of hard and soft brick. Hard bricks were recommended to be
> used above the roof line and soft bricks in the interior of the building.
>
> Rick
> --
> "Many a wiser men than I hath
> gone to pot." 1649
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 07:37:22 -0500
> From: Marcia Selsor
> Subject: back on clayart and in Texas!!
>
> I have made it to Brownsville, Texas. I am back online after several
> months of being away. The house has room for a studio and I am
> unpacking. I have to rebuild my raku kilns and studio set up. It is
> great to be here. And great to be back on clayart.
>
> Marcia Selsor
> http://marciaselsor.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 08:09:08 -0500
> From: Marcia Selsor
> Subject: Re: small raku kiln
>
> Brenda,
> I'd look up the hardware fabric design from PMI a few years ago. It
> is ceramic fiber attached to wire mesh (hardware fabric). I made two
> of these from one roll of ceramic fiber. One was 23 " inside diameter
> and the other was about 19".
> spray them with ITC and a rigidizer. Get the "safe fiber" to protect
> yourself.
> These kilns fired like champs. I did many workshops with them. They
> were very portable. I kept mine inside when not in use. I got my
> burners from Marc Ward. I fired on 3.5 pounds of pressure. -Very
> efficient kiln and burner set up.
>
>
> Marcia Selsor
> http://marciaselsor.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:15:17 -0400
> From: Fred Parker
> Subject: Clayboss Status
>
> Our Clayboss is at it again. This time another problem. See
> for details if interested.
>
> Fred Parker
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 06:44:18 -0700
> From: Jeanne Ormsby
> Subject: Amphora
>
> When I spent an afternoon in the basement of the Smithsonian Natural
> History Museum with the archeologist who has been reassembling pots from
> a dig in Gaza (putting pieces together for about 30 years now), he showed
> me how the shape of the pots changed over time to make them easier to
> carry--on porter's backs. The pointy/rounded bottoms left room for the
> porters' bottoms, so to speak.
>
> It was a fascinating afternoon--the archeologist brought back every
> shard that they dug in this one location--wanted to see all the pieces,
> not just the valuable or well preserved pots, etc. This covered many
> centuries of peoples who used the site, a crossroads in a well travelled
> trade route. He was also an expert in rammed earth, mud, adobe
> construction.
>
> Jeanne
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:00:06 -0500
> From: Snail Scott
> Subject: Re: Forgot to sign pots!
>
> On Sep 24, 2006, at 6:31 PM, Jancy Jaslow wrote:
>> Just unloaded a few Great Patchwork Plates: Did Not SIGN Them??@!!@@!!
>> SO: will a Rub-a-Dub Sharpie work? Next show is THIS weekend.
>>
>
> Regular sharpie will work. For a less removable
> signature, try that oven-bake paint and 're-fire' in
> the kitchen.
>
> -Snail
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:01:10 -0500
> From: Arnold Howard
> Subject: Re: Kiln repair in NYC?
>
> From: "David Martin Hershey"
>> It kinda sounds to me like your kiln has a stuck relay.
>> (you know, the things that make the clicky sounds when you
>> fire)
>>
>> It happened to my Skutt 1027 with controller after about
>> 150 firings.
>> A little freaky to see the temp climbing, with the kiln
>> turned "off"...
>> Usually they fail in the open position, rather than
>> closed.
>
> A stuck relay was my first thought, too.
>
> Skutt changed brands of relays not long ago. I believe they
> are using the P&B relay. You should order the type they
> recommend.
>
> By the way, you can test a relay with a 12-volt lantern
> battery with the kiln unplugged. A faster method is to use
> an ammeter. However, that necessitates turning on the kiln
> with the switch box open.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 08:53:00 -0500
> From: Arnold Howard
> Subject: Re: Kiln repair help needed
>
> From: "Anne Wellings"
> To:
>> I need some answers for a friend who is replacing all the
>> elements in her
>> electric kiln and wants to deal with some damaged bricks
>> at the same
>> time. The first problem is that she is trying to re-cement
>> chunks of soft
>> brick that have broken away, and is using Sairset to do
>> so, but is having
>> trouble getting it to work. >
>> The other problem is that where an element burned out,
>> there is a dark
>> discolored area in the brick that has become very hard.
>
> Anne, broken bricks can usually be left unrepaired without
> affecting the firing results.
>
> A few weeks ago someone showed me photos of a very old
> Paragon kiln someone had given him. He was concerned about
> the brick damage and had compiled a list of replacement
> bricks that he wanted to order. He wondered if the kiln was
> even worth repairing.
>
> I looked at the pictures and told him that the kiln was in
> pristine condition. I saw only a few broken element grooves,
> which is minor.
>
> Here are several brick repair ideas to try:
>
> 1) You can hold a broken brick groove in place with two
> element staples, which are U-shaped pieces of element wire.
> Angle the staples slightly downward and inward toward each
> other so that gravity helps hold the groove in place.
>
> 2) If you have lost the element groove, you can hold the
> element in place with a couple of element staples.
>
> 3) An element groove is difficult to repair with cement,
> because the brick surface to be cemented is so narrow. It is
> easier, however, if you sand the broken surfaces so that
> they are flat instead of jagged. You will need to make a new
> element groove that will mate with the main brick. The gap
> in the brick seam should be no wider than 1/16". Otherwise
> the brick will probably break later.
>
> If you want to see the ideal brick seam, examine a brick lid
> or bottom. They are made by craftsmen who work with bricks
> all day long. The seams are usually only 1/32" - 1/16" wide.
> Thicker seams tend to break due to the difference of
> expansion between the brick and cement.
>
> As Steve Bath suggested, you should always dig out the
> discolored spots in an element groove. Use a screwdriver and
> dental mirror. If you can't get a screwdriver into the
> groove, use a curved dental tool. Before installing the new
> elements, vacuum the grooves.
>
> The number one reason a new element burns out is loose
> element connectors. So be sure to read the instructions that
> come with replacement elements. That should include
> information on tightening the connectors.
>
> Elements are easy to replace. Many years ago I tested the
> new Paragon SnF-82, a kiln that had our first "tuned
> elements." I fired the kiln, studied witness cones, and
> after each firing replaced all the elements. (We changed the
> ohms of the elements each time.) With a little practice, I
> could replace the elements in about 45 minutes, and without
> damaging the bricks. If I can do it, you and your friend
> certainly can too.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:04:41 -0400
> From: Hal Giddens
> Subject: Help with Emerald Green Glaze on Dark Clay Body
>
> Hello everyone.
>
> I need some help with getting an cone ^6 Emerald Green glaze to work on a
> dark clay body, in this case Lizella clay. The reason we are using =
Lizella
> is that we wanted to use a local Georgia clay. Last year when I was
> working on the St. Patricks project using this clay I was only able to
> come up with a dark green since I had such a short time to work with. =
This
> year I have more time to work on the project and would like to get a =
glaze
> that is at least close to Emerald Green. I did a test last week using 3
> different glazes and only one of the result shows real promise. If any of
> you have the time you can go to the link
> http://wwwstpatricksproject2007.blogspot.com to view the test results and
> the receipes used. Any ideas would be much appreciated. I did see a
> receipe in the latest issue of Clay Times and I will probably give it a
> try also.
>
> Hal Giddens
>
> Home Grown Pottery
> 1578 Rockledge Road
> Rockledge, GA 30454
> kenhal@bellsouth.net
> http://www.homegrownpottery.blogspot.com/
> http://wwwstpatricksproject2007.blogspot.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:56:46 -0400
> From: Bruce Girrell
> Subject: Re: What vacuum???
>
> Ivor wrote:
>
>> Vacuum. This presumed state of nature has the same validity as Aether =
...
>
> True, but the "vacuum" being discussed simply relates only to a reduction
> in pressure on the interior of a vessel compared to atmospheric pressure
> on the outside. Because of the large surface area of even a small pot, a
> small reduction in pressure on the interior would be very effective in
> keeping a pot firmly in place on the wheelhead.
>
> Alas, I don't believe that even this tiny reduction in pressure occurs.
> The idea is that a whack on the (relatively) pliable exterior of the pot
> deforms the pot slightly, expelling some air. When the pot returns to its
> original shape after the whack, a small pressure differential is created.
>
> There are two problems that I see with this explanation.
> 1) Clay behaves as a plastic material, not an elastic one. Therefore,
> deformations in the surface of the rim, the curvature of the bottom or
> wherever else that may occur when the pot is whacked will tend to be
> retained and will not spring back to the original shape. Any air expelled
> would simply be expelled, after which the interior volume would remain
> essentially unchanged and no pressure differential would be created.
>
> 2) The wheelhead is wet. If air is expelled it would reveal itself as a
> bubble. We can take a straw poll to find out others' observations, but I
> do use this technique and I have never observed any bubbles being
> expelled as the pot is "set" with a tap.
>
> An easy test would be to drill a hole in the side of a pot so that no
> pressure differential could possibly be created and compare the tenacity
> of the adhesion of this pot to a pot that has no hole. My guess is that
> the two will behave essentially identically.
>
>
> None of this negates the usefulness of the method. It's one of those
> things that falls into mel's category of "I don't care how it works. It
> works. That's all I need to know to make my pots."
>
> Bruce Girrell
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:01:25 -0400
> From: Jacqueline Miller
> Subject: Re: four days with Richard Aerni -- wow
>
> Do you have a name for Richard Aerni's studio and website?
>
> Thanks,
> Jackie Miller
>
> On 9/21/06, Sandy Henderson wrote:
>> Hi,clayarters! Lauren Bellero and I just enjoyed a remarkable
>> "work-study opportunity" with Richard Aerni in Rochester, NY. If you
>> have seen his work, you know that he is a master potter as well as an
>> important contributor to this list. It is hard for me to put into words
>> what a wonderful week this was. Richard offered us his studio space and
>> his individual instruction and attention. We alternated watching him
>> demonstrate his techniques with working on our own projects. (Plus, he
>> is a very nice guy. He put us up in his home and even cooked for us!
>> What more could you ask?!) I do not know of any such opportunity
>> anywhere else. Richard suggested this idea on clayart several months
>> ago. If he does that again, I strongly urge anyone who can to take him
>> up on his offer!
>>
>> Sandy Henderson
>> NW Indiana
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
>
> --
> Jackie Miller
> JackieAMiller@gmail.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 08:06:37 -0700
> From: Overall's
> Subject: Re: back on clayart and in Texas!!
>
> Marcia,
>
> WELCOME TO TEXAS!
> Had any barbeque yet?
> Tacos?
> Don't eat the cactus with the stickers (I did when a
> friend told me they were good while on one of our
> camping expeditions). Boy howdy did that hurt...worse
> than a jalepeno.
>
> Kim in Houston
> http://www.houstonpotters.com
>
> --- Marcia Selsor wrote:
>
>> I have made it to Brownsville, Texas. I am back
>> online after several
>> months of being away. The house has room for a
>> studio and I am
>> unpacking. I have to rebuild my raku kilns and
>> studio set up. It is
>> great to be here. And great to be back on clayart.
>>
>> Marcia Selsor
>> http://marciaselsor.com
>>
>>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> _____
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change
>> your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
>> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
>
> Kim Overall
> http://www.houstonpotters.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:04:08 -0400
> From: Bruce Girrell
> Subject: Re: Machinery questions for experienced peter puggers
>
> Any pugmill is a fairly noisy device. The vacuum pump on the Peter Pugger
> (a diaphragm type vacuum pump) is exceptionally noisy.
>
> The hopper door on my machine does not stay closed when the machine is
> running without the locking device. A safety device will shut off the
> machine if the hopper door opens. The locking device consists only of a
> set of Vise Grip pliers welded in a suitable position.
>
> If you need a picture, let me know.
>
> Bruce Girrell
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:05:45 -0500
> From: "Smith, Judy"
> Subject: Texturing pots
>
> I have made several attempts to add dots or other kinds of texture to
> the outside of my thrown pots. Most of my attempts end up as a mess.
> If I press the texture hard enough to get the clay to go into the
> impressions, it dents the pots. I would love to be able to create dots
> on the outside of pots like ones that Lee Middleman does. His site says
> that he deeply impresses the surface of the pot prior to shaping the
> piece. He then works from the inside only as he expands the clay to its
> final form. I don't expect my pots to look anywhere as nice as his, but
> I would love to know how to put dots on the outside of my pots. Any
> suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> =3D20
>
> Here is a link showing his pots.
>
> =3D20
>
> =
http://www.leemiddleman.com/cgi-bin/DJgallery.cgi?TEMPLATE=3D3Dportfolio.ht=3D=
> m
> l&MAX=3D3D8&ZONE=3D3DHTS&INDEX=3D3D1
>
> =3D20
>
> =3D20
>
> Thanks,=3D20
>
> Judy Smith
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:47:25 -0500
> From: mel jacobson
> Subject: kiln repair tip
>
> one of the methods that i find to work
> with almost total perfection to repair gaps and
> breaks, is to use itc/ soaked fiber.
>
> if you add cement, it will shrink away in no time.
> and, it will fall into your pots.
>
> i just made up a batch the other day and repaired
> all the breaks and gaps in my big gas kiln.
>
> they stay put forever.
>
> i just scrunch up the ceramic fiber into a
> cup with some itc 100 and water.
> and then just smooosh it into the crack.
>
> it might be helpful to take a knife and scrape out
> the dust and junk, make the gap clean.
> it is also good to
> use a spray bottle and wet the crack.
> then just fire the kiln...it is repaired.
>
> school electric kilns are notorious for being
> nothing but broken surface brick and hanging coils.
> we just fired those for about 80 more times.
> it made no difference..whatsoever.
>
> kilns are not your furniture...you do not have
> to make them look like your living room.
> they are tools...the more you use them, the
> more they take on the quality of a real tool.
> it is called `kiln patina`.
> i have always laughed at the `stainless polish`
> that skutt may still send with the new kiln...god,
> who would have time, or want to do that?
> i would be like waxing your chain saw. whwow, got
> to make it look nice. no, you want it to run well.
> mel
>
> as i have said...i have a 1965 skutt and a 1966 L@L.
> both are as good as new...i only bisque fire in them.
> in many electric kilns, if you stay just at cone 6 and
> below...they last a long time. it is cone 10 that often
> kicks the bejeesus out of them.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 08:35:51 -0700
> From: claybair
> Subject: Re: Forgot to sign pots!
>
> What about using Dremmel tool with a small diamond bit.
> That won't wash off.
>
>
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> Tucson, AZ
> http://claybair.com=3D20
>
> --=3D20
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: =3D
> 9/22/2006
> =3D20
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:34:11 -0400
> From: "L. P. Skeen"
> Subject: Calendars are coming! :)
>
> I have been informed by the printer that calendars will be ready on =3D
> 10/7. They will be mailed out as soon as I get them, and yes, they will =
=3D
> be drilled this time. ;) =3D20
>
> 20% discount still applies through Friday.
> Wholesale pricing available on orders of 10 or more, LMK if you want =3D
> that. :)
>
> L. P. Skeen, Summerfield NC
> Get your 2007 Clay Lover's Calendar at =3D
> http://www.living-tree.net/calendar.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:54:28 -0400
> From: Bruce Girrell
> Subject: Pointy-bottomed coffee cups
>
> Patrick Cross wrote:
>> Now there's an intriguing idea. Perhaps such a cup should come with =
it's
>> own miniature coffee table with a hole the cup fits in...and with an
>> inset tray off to one side for you biscotti(sp?).
>>
>> I think *I* might make a coffee cup with a pointed base.
>
> You may have something there. For sure, nobody at work would be running
> off with _your_ coffee mug if they were incapable of setting it down
> without spilling it.
>
> Most pots from Mata Ortiz have a steeply rounded, almost pointy, bottom.
> They are set in a yarn wrapped fired clay ring, called an anillo
> (literally "ring"), sized to fit the bottom of the pot. They are quite
> stable that way. No room for any biscotti, though.
>
> Bruce Girrell
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 12:26:55 -0400
> From: Don Goodrich
> Subject: Mystery of the Black Sand
>
> Hi folks,
> Thanks for all your observations and opinions about black
> sand. For now I'll go with the taconite/magnetite theory,
> considering the location. It's also worth considering the
> regional shipping. Countless ships have passed this shore
> in the past century or so, moving minerals from the mines of Minnesota
> and Wisconsin to the mills of Indiana. No telling what wrecks or
> spills the currents and waves might bring to or from these beaches.
>
> It was good to hear from Michael Banks, who=3D92s trove of
> knowledge has been missing from this list for four years.
> Thanks, Maggie!
>
> No doubt I=3D92ll find some ues for the stuff before long. I hope
> to do a Currie-type grid with it in a few days, and might
> find something that looks intriguing. Might try it in some clay,
> too, in case there=3D92s a need for speckles.
>
> Meanwhile, it seems that the sand heats up only slightly after a minute =
in
> the microwave oven. Hotter than the glass dish it was in, but not too hot
> to touch. By contrast, the test tile glazed with it heats up a LOT in a
> minute; even more than the cup of water sitting alongside it in the
> microwave. Guess I=3D92d better not glaze any coffee mugs with this =
stuff!
>
> I took the dog for a walk along the beach yesterday evening,
> ready to collect more black sand. Although the sky was clear
> and calm, large waves swept the shore and things had changed.
> John H. was right: black sands can be transient.
> There have been storms this past week.
> The long stretch of black sand we'd walked on a week ago
> has dwindled to a much smaller patch. Whether most has been
> washed away or covered up is not obvious. I bagged about
> five kilos of the sand and we left, which pleased the dog
> who had been quite anxious about those waves.
>
> Cheers,
> Don Goodrich in cool but sunny Zion, Illinois
>
> goodrichdn@aol.com
> http://dongoodrichpottery.com/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:15:11 -0700
> From: Janine Roubik
> Subject: Re: shino and celadon gurus - please advise!
>
> Thanks for the help, Dave.
> I see some people have blog pages where they can put up pictures, like
> I was hoping to do with these. How do you do that and what is a good
> site to use? For now I will put them on my website which is under
> construction. I'll just put them on the main page, since it's not really
> done yet. Janine
>
> Dave Finkelnburg wrote:
> Janine,
> How much crazing is OK for you is a personal
> choice, period...THERE IS NO "NORMAL" FOR
> CRAZING...for celdons or any other glaze. You can
> reduce crazing, within limits, by using materials that
> don't shrink as much. Adding silica (quartz) or clay
> reduces shrinkage. If you add too much, though, the
> glaze won't melt at your firing temperature.
> Every clay body has a somewhat different
> shrinkage. Porcelains, in general, don't shrink as
> much as stoneware bodies. The more vitrified a body
> is the higher its contraction will be on cooling.
> Thus, underfired bodies are worse for causing crazing.
> The bottom line for you, and anyone else concerned
> about this, is crazing is a function of a particular
> clay body/glaze/firing combination. IF you want to
> control crazing you have to recognize all three have
> an effect and you need to control them.
> PLEASE don't come after me for mentioning control
> and crazing in the same post. I DO NOT fear crazing,
> dislike it, discriminate against it, etc, etc. It can
> look great. However, as a practical matter, crazed
> pots are weaker--only one-fourth to one-fifth as
> strong as uncrazed pots!
> If you want to reduce crazing you need to test
> recipe changes that move you to less high expansion
> fluxes, (for example, use a higher K, lower Na
> feldspar), more Si, Al, possibly less alkali fluxes,
> more Ca... This is where glaze calc is helpful. Or,
> a Currie grid type approach is a highly organized way
> to explore the possibilities.
> Good glazing!
> Dave Finkelnburg, thinking the only way at that
> temperature your Shino didn't melt is it was on way
> too thin, as you suggest. You might want to increase
> glaze density (say 1.45) to get a thicker coat, and
> double dip. Also, pull the piece slowly from the
> tub...too fast literally washes the glaze off the pot!
>
> --- Janine Roubik wrote:
>> The first is Penn State Carbon Trap Shino> Turned
> out very dry
>> Also, Tom Buck's celadon (revisited)
>>> absolutley love the color, but am getting crazing.
> I guess I don't
>> know how much crazing is normal for a celadon and
>> acceptable for
>> functional pieces.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> _____ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:20:36 -0400
> From: maggie jones
> Subject: new member
>
> Hi folks...I just joined yesterday. I had been a part of the list many
> yrs ago and could not handle the no. of e-mails so was reluctant to
> re-join! I am looking forward to interesting discussions.
>
>
> I am looking for ways to spread the word on this scholarship opportunity
> that the American Art Pottery Association is offering. If any one has
> suggestions just let me know.
> I made a post last night and you can contact me for a pdf file with full
> details. It is a $1000 scholarship, deadline feb 7th...any body teaching
> in the BFA program out there?... let your students know, it is a good
> project for a ceramic student.
> Thanks and have a good day,
> Maggie
>
>
>
> Maggie and Freeman Jones
> Turtle Island Pottery
> Black Mountain, NC
> http://TurtleIslandPottery.com
> http://amartpot.org trustee
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 18:26:35 +0100
> From: Jenny Lewis
> Subject: amphorae
>
> Greetings all,
>
> I=EDm not an expert but I love ancient Greek pottery and have for years
> been fascinated by how they were made, decorated and fired. The web is
> certainly full of info, but if you feel like curling up with a good book
> - Kelly, this is just what you need to fill in your =ECspare=EE time! - =
these
> are among my favourites:
>
> Brian A Sparkes, Greek Pottery: An Introduction. Manchester
> University Press (UK), 1991.
>
> Robert S Folsom, Handbook of Greek Pottery: a Guide for Amateurs.
> Faber & Faber (UK), 1967. Might be out of print, I bought it some years
> ago in a secondhand book shop, but if it=EDs difficult to find in shops
> then it is worth trying to track it down somehow.
>
> And to go back a bit further, Minoan pottery is stunning. Anyone who
> has been to Crete and seen the collection in the museum at Heraklion, as
> well as the giant pithoi at Knossos, will know these amazing works. A
> book that goes into some detail, VERY serious, academic, technical, not
> your average lightweight storybook by any means, but I found it
> absolutely rivetting, is:
>
> Philip P Betancourt, The History of Minoan Pottery. Princeton
> University Press, 1985.
>
> I=EDve heard another theory about pointy bottoms, this time in the =
Roman
> world. Some time ago I watched a demonstration by a potter who was
> throwing Ancient Roman style pots. He thought that a possible use of the
> pointy-bottomed amphorae might be to balance them in a corner, leaning
> against the walls, and the air circulating around and behind them kept
> the water cool. Which sort of made sense to me at the time. He also
> mentioned that one of the fuels used for firing was olive stones. I
> think I lost concentration for a few minutes after that, as I was
> imagining how many olives I=EDd have to eat to fire a kiln load,
> mmmmmm.......
>
> The amphorae discussions have been very enjoyable. I=EDve been going
> through one of those mental blocks recently, thinking that I want to make
> something different, but what? Fortunately, this has coincided with my
> not being able to do any pottery, following eye surgery at the end of
> June. I=EDm now waiting for the doctors to say I can get back to =
lifting,
> bending, and of course making pots. When I get back into the studio I
> think there is a possibility of amphorae, pithoi and pointy bottoms on
> the agenda! Woo hoo.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jenny
> in Eastleigh, Hampshire, UK
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> The all-new Yahoo! Mail goes wherever you go - free your email address
> from your Internet provider.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:26:33 -0600
> From: normana
> Subject: Re: kiln repair tip
>
> Hi, Mel
> A while ago you mentioned that you use itc on your posts to stop them
> from sticking to the advancer shelves, I saved the post but lost the
> computer.
> Was it the itc 100 that you used?
> Thanks, Norman
>
> mel jacobson wrote:
>> one of the methods that i find to work
>> with almost total perfection to repair gaps and
>> breaks, is to use itc/ soaked fiber.
>>
>> if you add cement, it will shrink away in no time.
>> and, it will fall into your pots.
>>
>> i just made up a batch the other day and repaired
>> all the breaks and gaps in my big gas kiln.
>>
>> they stay put forever.
>>
>> i just scrunch up the ceramic fiber into a
>> cup with some itc 100 and water.
>> and then just smooosh it into the crack.
>>
>> it might be helpful to take a knife and scrape out
>> the dust and junk, make the gap clean.
>> it is also good to
>> use a spray bottle and wet the crack.
>> then just fire the kiln...it is repaired.
>>
>> school electric kilns are notorious for being
>> nothing but broken surface brick and hanging coils.
>> we just fired those for about 80 more times.
>> it made no difference..whatsoever.
>>
>> kilns are not your furniture...you do not have
>> to make them look like your living room.
>> they are tools...the more you use them, the
>> more they take on the quality of a real tool.
>> it is called `kiln patina`.
>> i have always laughed at the `stainless polish`
>> that skutt may still send with the new kiln...god,
>> who would have time, or want to do that?
>> i would be like waxing your chain saw. whwow, got
>> to make it look nice. no, you want it to run well.
>> mel
>>
>> as i have said...i have a 1965 skutt and a 1966 L@L.
>> both are as good as new...i only bisque fire in them.
>> in many electric kilns, if you stay just at cone 6 and
>> below...they last a long time. it is cone 10 that often
>> kicks the bejeesus out of them.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
>> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>>
>> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______
>>
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:27:22 -0700
> From: Janine Roubik
> Subject: Re: shino and celadon gurus - please advise!
>
> Sorry,
> The website is www.roubikpottery.com
> They'll be on the main page towards the bottom.
> Janine, feeling not so computer savvy.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:50:51 -0700
> From: Donna Ward
> Subject: Re: kiln repair tip
>
> Mel, this subject is timely.
> Please tell me what itc is and where I can obtain some.
> Thank you
> Donna Ward
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: mel jacobson
>> To:
>> Date: 9/25/2006 8:52:18 AM
>> Subject: kiln repair tip
>>
>> one of the methods that i find to work
>> with almost total perfection to repair gaps and
>> breaks, is to use itc/ soaked fiber.
>>
>> if you add cement, it will shrink away in no time.
>> and, it will fall into your pots.
>>
>> i just made up a batch the other day and repaired
>> all the breaks and gaps in my big gas kiln.
>>
>> they stay put forever.
>>
>> i just scrunch up the ceramic fiber into a
>> cup with some itc 100 and water.
>> and then just smooosh it into the crack.
>>
>> it might be helpful to take a knife and scrape out
>> the dust and junk, make the gap clean.
>> it is also good to
>> use a spray bottle and wet the crack.
>> then just fire the kiln...it is repaired.
>>
>> school electric kilns are notorious for being
>> nothing but broken surface brick and hanging coils.
>> we just fired those for about 80 more times.
>> it made no difference..whatsoever.
>>
>> kilns are not your furniture...you do not have
>> to make them look like your living room.
>> they are tools...the more you use them, the
>> more they take on the quality of a real tool.
>> it is called `kiln patina`.
>> i have always laughed at the `stainless polish`
>> that skutt may still send with the new kiln...god,
>> who would have time, or want to do that?
>> i would be like waxing your chain saw. whwow, got
>> to make it look nice. no, you want it to run well.
>> mel
>>
>> as i have said...i have a 1965 skutt and a 1966 L@L.
>> both are as good as new...i only bisque fire in them.
>> in many electric kilns, if you stay just at cone 6 and
>> below...they last a long time. it is cone 10 that often
>> kicks the bejeesus out of them.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
>> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>>
>> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>>
>>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> ___ __
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.7/454 - Release Date: =
9/21/2006
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 12:36:05 -0500
> From: Taylor Hendrix
> Subject: Re: What vacuum???
>
> Let me throw a monkey wrench into things, Bruce.
>
> I am suspecious of the 'pressure differential' explaination. Could it
> just be adhesion (friction?) that holds the pot to the wheelhead? If
> you expect a bubble to form, you might have used a bit too much water
> I believe, hehe.
>
> As with many of our techniques, timing, and not deep understanding of
> how something works, is most important. Man this stuff is fun.
>
> And your test is direct and to the point. Wish I had some leather
> hard so I could quickly test it...drat.
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
>
> On 9/25/06, Bruce Girrell wrote:
>>> There are two problems that I see with this explanation.
>> 1) Clay behaves as a plastic material, not an elastic one. Therefore,
>> deformations in the surface of the rim, the curvature of the bottom or
>> wherever else that may occur when the pot is whacked will tend to be
>> retained and will not spring back to the original shape. Any air =
expelled
>> would simply be expelled, after which the interior volume would remain
>> essentially unchanged and no pressure differential would be created.
>>
>> 2) The wheelhead is wet. If air is expelled it would reveal itself as a
>> bubble. We can take a straw poll to find out others' observations, but I
>> do use this technique and I have never observed any bubbles being
>> expelled as the pot is "set" with a tap.
>>
>> An easy test would be to drill a hole in the side of a pot so that no
>> pressure differential could possibly be created and compare the tenacity
>> of the adhesion of this pot to a pot that has no hole. My guess is that
>> the two will behave essentially identically.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 14:11:03 -0500
> From: mel jacobson
> Subject: baby slap and itc/rims
>
> itc is available through axner.com.
>
> you don't need gobs of it.
> it thins with water.
>
> it is a thermal coating that does not spall off
> the kiln.
>
> it is not magic, just a quality thermal coating
> for kilns and furnaces.
>
> it is a great kiln wash.
> it is great for posts and other parts of kilns.
> i use it on my thermo/couples.
> itc100
> it is basically an industrial product...
>
> the reason that i use the term...`spank the baby`
> when tap centering is:
>
> it is a very gentle, tap and release.
> it is almost a non/hit. like the pot, we would never
> hurt a baby...it is the perfect analogy. when i teach it,
> everyone `gets it`.
>
> and, i love the concept of setting the pot.
> because that is what happens...it will set on most
> any clear, clean shiny surface. if you have very flat/firm rims.
>
> i really don't care how anyone attaches pots for
> turning...use tuct tape...use elmer's glue..that
> is up to you.
>
> for those that have discovered the tap with water,
> firm rim, perfect leather hard....the system is fool proof.
> there is not a master potter in japan that cannot do it.
>
> yes, of course i use clay chucks...almost all the time.
> that is the common use for trimming among many oriental potters..
> but, you attach the chuck with water, tap center...and
> get it on tight...it stays all day. the bottom of clay chucks are
> scored with a checker board pattern...helps them stay on.
>
> as for `razor blade rims`...they are very poor pots for every day
> use. they chip on the edges of the dish washer...break with
> ease and in many cases not really fit for tap centering.
> that was my point...i do not hate potters that make thin rimmed
> ware...that is their choice. i just would never try and sell
> a set of dishes to a customer with razor blade rims. i would
> have a red face for months. i would get most of them back in
> six months. chip, chip, chip.
>
> and, without question my aesthetic is for a rim that makes a
> solid, firm statement. i teach that. and, as a professional critic
> that is my choice.. and you can see over and
> over, student work with thin rims...and fat bottoms. the rim is
> something you plan for ahead of time. it is a very firm decision
> by the designer.
>
> a lovely thin rimmed pot with a graceful thin body...and wonderful
> small foot ring is a thing a elegance and beauty. i own several.
>
> but, if you are going to work with speed and craft, make many
> pots a day.....sell your pots as functional dinner ware....make
> a solid, well designed rim. most working potters know that.
> mel
>
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 14:51:39 -0400
> From: Eleanora Eden
> Subject: Re: Forgot to sign pots!
>
> Hi Jancy,
>
> I sign some of my pots with a tiny fine grinding bit on a cordless =
dremel.
> Would this work for you?
>
> Eleanora
>
>
>> As The Wheel Turns: Episode ???
>>
>> In the continuing Clay Opera of My Life....latest Snafu:
>>
>> Just unloaded a few Great Patchwork Plates: Did Not SIGN Them??@!!@@!!
>>
>> Well, there was a late night session glazing, just before the Potter's
>> Council workshop...
>>
>> SO: will a Rub-a-Dub Sharpie work? Next show is THIS weekend.
>>
>>
>> Jancy Jaslow
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jancy Jaslow
>> Manor Hill Pottery
>> Cincinnati, OH 45220
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> --
> Bellows Falls Vermont
> www.eleanoraeden.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:53:19 -0700
> From: Amanda Blum - Howling Zoe Productions
> Subject: Re: Pointy-bottomed coffee cups
>
> I've been making such things as tea cups for a while, based on a
> professors credo that all cups should have a "place". Pointed bottoms
> with specialized bases as the saucers. The process though, is somewhat
> flawed in that generally speaking people want the cup holding process to
> be one handed, rather than two.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Bruce =
Girrell
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 8:54 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Pointy-bottomed coffee cups
>
> Patrick Cross wrote:
>> Now there's an intriguing idea. Perhaps such a cup should come with =
it's
>> own miniature coffee table with a hole the cup fits in...and with an
>> inset tray off to one side for you biscotti(sp?).
>>
>> I think *I* might make a coffee cup with a pointed base.
>
> You may have something there. For sure, nobody at work would be running
> off with _your_ coffee mug if they were incapable of setting it down
> without spilling it.
>
> Most pots from Mata Ortiz have a steeply rounded, almost pointy, bottom.
> They are set in a yarn wrapped fired clay ring, called an anillo
> (literally "ring"), sized to fit the bottom of the pot. They are quite
> stable that way. No room for any biscotti, though.
>
> Bruce Girrell
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> ___ __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 12:26:08 -0700
> From: jlutz
> Subject: itc/rims
>
> Mel,
> You said that you put the ITC on your thermocouple. do you put it on
> just the tip or on the whole assembly?
> Also, the top rim of brick of my "new" electric kiln is crumbling -
> would ITC be effective on keeping the bricks from disintegrating so =
badly?
>
> Jean Lutz
> Prescott, AZ
>
> At 12:11 PM 9/25/2006, you wrote:
>> itc is available through axner.com.you don't need gobs of it.
>> it thins with water.it is a thermal coating that does not spall off
>> the kiln.it is not magic, just a quality thermal coating
>> for kilns and furnaces.
>> it is a great kiln wash.it is great for posts and other parts of kilns.
>> i use it on my thermo/couples.itc100
>> it is basically an industrial product...
>> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:01:14 -0700
> From: Elizabeth Priddy
> Subject: skinny rimmy lip tips
>
> skinny rimmy's can be used for visual effect without
> affecting the use of a pot if you employ an optical
> illusion in your throwing.
>
> throw it normally with about the same thickness of the
> wall and true the rim normally. Then at the very end
> of the making, place your fingers together and onto
> the rim making just the last 1/8th inch of the rim go
> to a "point" in cross section. Then back off it with
> a light application of a sponge.
>
> Result: a sturdy rim that visually conveys extra
> thinness where there is none in reality.
>
> A "real" tapered rim is fragile.
>
> But I can certainly see the desire for one visually.
>
> My rice bowls employ this technique, making their
> flared walls very sturdy, dishwasher sturdy. But
> their finial edge goes to a rather knife like point,
> but only in the very tip of the lip.
>
> It makes for a really beautiful sharp place for a
> celedon to break, but not the lip itself.
>
> A gradual taper is rarely the right thing to do,
> structurally.
>
> E
>
>
>
>
>
> Elizabeth Priddy
>
> Beaufort, NC - USA
> http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:09:50 -0700
> From: Ann Brink
> Subject: Re: back on clayart and in Texas!!
>
> Good to see you back online!
>
> It's always more fun unpacking and setting up a new place than
> dismantling, etc. at the old one, in my experience anyway. Hope things
> go well getting set up.
>
> Ann Brink in Lompoc CA,
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcia Selsor"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 5:37 AM
> Subject: back on clayart and in Texas!!
>
>
>> I have made it to Brownsville, Texas. I am back online after several
>> months of being away. The house has room for a studio and I am
>> unpacking. I have to rebuild my raku kilns and studio set up. It is
>> great to be here. And great to be back on clayart.
>>
>> Marcia Selsor
>> http://marciaselsor.com
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: =
9/22/2006
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 17:13:16 -0400
> From: W J Seidl
> Subject: Re: kiln repair tip
>
> Yeah, Mel, it does have to work well. But I don't want anything to do
> with a chainsaw dripping with bar & chain oil, covered in a mixture of
> sawdust, wood chips and gasoline.
> Using a machine like that is just plain dangerous. "Oops, it slipped =
outta
> my hands. Oh well, the doc can sew that back on I guess."
>
> Take a minute and wipe the damn thing off.
> Same with a wheel, a pugmill, a kiln, anything with moving parts.
> You spent good money to buy it, now take care of it. (Waxing is optional)
> Keeping your equipment clean makes you look like a professional, like you
> actually care.
> Best,
> Wayne Seidl
> grinding 40 years of rust off a Walker...grrrrrrr
>
>
> it would be like waxing your chain saw. wow, got
> to make it look nice. no, you want it to run well.
> mel
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:42:57 -0500
> From: mel jacobson
> Subject: itc and crumble bricks
>
> i don't think that itc is that strong.
> i would find out first, what is causing the crumble.
> perhaps a towel over the edge as you load the kiln would help..
> itc would make it new again, however.
>
> that is what i did for pat, our aid at the high school,
> full breasted and full of kiln dust and crumbs all
> over her blouse...we fixed that.
> she draped a piece of canvas, then a towel,
> and, it protected the top of the kiln and pat.
>
> itc just brushed on the exposed elements sticking
> into the kiln is fine. i also have brushed some itc
> on the connection of wiring to element of the kiln...to
> keep that connection from oxidizing and burning out.
> that is one of the major causes of elements dying.
>
> i did that about 15 years ago with about six thermocouples,
> and not one has needed to be replaced...even the salt kiln
> at the farm...and that says something. that pyrometer has
> sat on that kiln, outside, since we built it.
> and it is almost dead on.
>
> bill burgert mounted a coffee can on his kiln, and place the
> pyrometer inside of it. looks neat, and is out of the weather.
>
> wayne you dip...do you, in your wildest moment
> think i would let my stihl or husgavarna chain saws
> drip with grease/oil...be dangerous.????
> running well includes being dry, neat and clean.
> but wax? that would just be too dopey for
> a wisconsin chain saw guy. maybe you maine guys
> wax your tools...not us. ( you have to get out of
> the florida island world, and get back to your roots.)
> tools must be natural.
> my neighbor lyle would kick my butt down the driveway.
> i sometimes oil the handles of shovels and axes..but now
> with fibre glass handles...that need is gone.
> anyone that would abuse tools and song birds or children, should
> be horse whipped.
> mel
>
>
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 17:22:06 -0400
> From: Mud Duck Pottery
> Subject: car kilnn???
>
> The pad is poured, the cart is built and now it's time to start laying =
=3D
> the bricks on my MFT kiln.
>
> What I need to know before I start to lay bricks is how much space do =3D
> you allow between the bricks on the cart and the bricks on the wall of =
=3D
> the kiln?? I assume there will be some expansion of the brick as the =3D
> kiln is heated and I would think you would need to leave some space to =
=3D
> compensate for this. I have Nils Lou's book and plans but I didn't see =
=3D
> anything in either that addressed this.=3D20
>
> Also how important to the operation of this kiln is the K-wool liner in =
=3D
> the stack pipe??? Or will it work just as well without it??? Does the =3D
> stack pipe need a rain cap on top???
>
> Thanks!!!!
> Gene=3D20
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
> www.mudduckpottery.net
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:36:43 -0500
> From: Daniel Semler
> Subject: Re: Help with Emerald Green Glaze on Dark Clay Body
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> The URL should be http://stpatricksproject2007.blogspot.com instead
> of that originally sent.
>
> Hal, I'll try to have another look in detail later and let you know
> if I have any useful thoughts on it.
>
> Thx
> D
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:56:35 -0500
> From: Arnold Howard
> Subject: Re: itc/rims
>
> From: "jlutz"
> the top rim of brick of my "new" electric kiln is
> crumbling -
> -----------------
> The top rim of firebricks will last longer if you protect it
> with a piece of plywood when you load/unload the kiln. Cut
> the plywood with a curve so that it fits across the top of
> the kiln.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 18:02:06 -0400
> From: Helen Bates
> Subject: Re: Lee Middleman
>
> Hi Judy,
>
> Bill Amsterlaw and I have 3 links for Lee Middleman at:
> http://amsterlaw.com/clayart.html?middleman
>
> The last one especially, goes into his process in some detail.
>
> His personal web site: http://www.leemiddleman.com/
>
> His Association of California Clay and Glass Artists page:
> http://www.acga.net/acgamain/leemiddleman.html
>
> and Chin Lui's archived Ceramics Monthly:
> http://www.ceramicsmonthly.com/cmpc/richcontent/chinlui-0205.pdf
>
> --
> Helen Bates
> Belleville, Ontario, Canada
> Clayarters' URLs: http://amsterlaw.com/clayart/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:49:22 -0600
> From: BJ Clark | Stinking Desert Ceramics
> Subject: Celedon For Woodkilns
>
> Hello list,
> I'm in a bit of a pickle. I'm looking for a nice celedon liner that will
> fire well in a woodkiln. The recipe I've used for years that I got in
> college runs at ^10.5, and since I've yet to build a woodkiln, all my
> glazes are tweaked for the ^10 range.
> I'm going to the Woodfire Conference in a week and just realized I don't
> have a celedon recipe (well, any good glossy liner for that matter) in my
> notes that I trust to be stable at ^11 or 12. I'm using Jiki porcelin =
from
> Mile Hi.
>
> Could anyone share a tried and true celedon with me? I'm desperate.
>
> --
> BJ Clark
> Stinking Desert Ceramics
> bjclark@stinkingdesert.com
> www.stinkingdesert.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:52:11 -0600
> From: BJ Clark | Stinking Desert Ceramics
> Subject: Re: skinny rimmy lip tips
>
> This reminds me of Peg Malloy's rims.
> Anyone that owns/used a mug or tumbler of Peg's knows what I mean. There
> is a fine line between knife edging a pot and a thin rim. And a nice
> tapered rim like you describe is a thing of beauty.
>
>
> --
> BJ Clark
> Stinking Desert Ceramics
> bjclark@stinkingdesert.com
> www.stinkingdesert.com
>
>
> On 9/25/06, Elizabeth Priddy wrote:
>>
>> skinny rimmy's can be used for visual effect without
>> affecting the use of a pot if you employ an optical
>> illusion in your throwing.
>>
>> throw it normally with about the same thickness of the
>> wall and true the rim normally. Then at the very end
>> of the making, place your fingers together and onto
>> the rim making just the last 1/8th inch of the rim go
>> to a "point" in cross section. Then back off it with
>> a light application of a sponge.
>>
>> Result: a sturdy rim that visually conveys extra
>> thinness where there is none in reality.
>>
>> A "real" tapered rim is fragile.
>>
>> But I can certainly see the desire for one visually.
>>
>> My rice bowls employ this technique, making their
>> flared walls very sturdy, dishwasher sturdy. But
>> their finial edge goes to a rather knife like point,
>> but only in the very tip of the lip.
>>
>> It makes for a really beautiful sharp place for a
>> celedon to break, but not the lip itself.
>>
>> A gradual taper is rarely the right thing to do,
>> structurally.
>>
>> E
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Elizabeth Priddy
>>
>> Beaufort, NC - USA
>> http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>>
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 19:15:12 -0500
> From: Vince Pitelka
> Subject: Re: amphorae and rhytons
>
> Roly Beevor wrote:
>> I think if you look up the etymology of the word you will find that
>> rhyton means liquid (and is the root for words like stream and
>> rheumatism) and hence is used for a vessel for liquid. So you are both
>> right and both wrong.
>
> Rolly -
> The etymology has little to do with the correct usage of the word. A
> rhyton is an ancient Greek drinking horn, plain and simple.
>
> Jeese, people, just look up the damn word, okay, and let's stop this
> silliness. A rhyton is an ancient Greek drinking horn. It is not an
> amphora.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
> Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
> vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 20:27:52 -0400
> From: maggie jones
> Subject: reposting....new member
>
> I posted this at 1:30pm Monday...at 8:30 pm no show, so i am tryin
> again...
>
> ...how long does it usually take for posts to show up?
>
> ********************************************
>
> Hi folks...I just joined yesterday. I had been a part of the list many
> yrs ago and could not handle the no. of e-mails so was reluctant to
> re-join! I am looking forward to interesting discussions.
>
>
> I am looking for ways to spread the word on this scholarship opportunity
> that the American Art Pottery Association is offering. If any one has
> suggestions just let me know.
> I made a post last night and you can contact me for a pdf file with full
> details. It is a $1000 scholarship, deadline feb 7th...any body teaching
> in the BFA program out there?... let your students know, it is a good
> project for a ceramic student.
> Thanks and have a good day,
> Maggie
>
>
>
> Maggie and Freeman Jones
> Turtle Island Pottery
> Black Mountain, NC
> http://TurtleIslandPottery.com
> http://amartpot.org trustee
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 20:40:11 -0400
> From: "m.mshelomi"
> Subject: Re: back on clayart and in Texas!! and a moving experience....
>
> No matter how much stuff you give away, throw away when packing up to
> move, when unpacking have always been amazed with the 'things' I thought
> I could not live without.
>
> Boxes, after being packed and secured in the moving truck, multiply
> geometrically or maybe it is magically...
>
> My feelings about moving?
>
> I told my realtor that my move out of this house was going to be me in a
> box!
>
> Glad you are unpacking, getting settled and back on list.
>
> pottermim in hotter than TX... Florida
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ann Brink"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 4:09 PM
> Subject: Re: back on clayart and in Texas!!
>
>
>> Good to see you back online!
>>
>> It's always more fun unpacking and setting up a new place than
>> dismantling,
>> etc. at the old one, in my experience anyway. Hope things go well
>> getting set up.
>>
>> Ann Brink in Lompoc CA,
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Marcia Selsor"
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 5:37 AM
>> Subject: back on clayart and in Texas!!
>>
>>
>>> I have made it to Brownsville, Texas. I am back online after several
>>> months of being away. The house has room for a studio and I am
>>> unpacking. I have to rebuild my raku kilns and studio set up. It is
>>> great to be here. And great to be back on clayart.
>>>
>>> Marcia Selsor
>>> http://marciaselsor.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________________________________
>>> _______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>>
>>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>>
>>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date:
>>> 9/22/2006
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 20:26:01 -0500
> From: mel jacobson
> Subject: flat top stack question
>
> always use the flu liners/your pipe will burn out in no time flat.
>
> rule no 3, all time.
>
> never put a cap on a kiln chimney.
> never. you want the heat come straight out.
> mel
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 18:57:04 -0500
> From: gsomdahl
> Subject: Re: car kilnn???
>
> If the bricks on the cart and the bricks in the wall are of the same
> material they will expand at the same rate and the gap between them will
> just get larger as they heat up.
>
> Mud Duck Pottery wrote:
>
>> What I need to know before I start to lay bricks is how much space do
>> you allow between the bricks on the cart and the bricks on the wall of
>> the kiln?? I assume there will be some expansion of the brick as the
>> kiln is heated and I would think you would need to leave some space to
>> compensate for this. I have Nils Lou's book and plans but I didn't see
>> anything in either that addressed this.
>>
>>
>
> --
> This is a post only account. Send replies to "gene" at my ".com" domain
> named "somdahl".
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:48:42 -0700
> From: Frank Colson
> Subject: Re: small raku kiln
>
> Brenda- What more could you ask for. Meet ROCKY RAKU at www.R2D2u.com A
> total instructions and plans, right down to making the burner and how to
> fireup those first delicious raku pots. Proven over and over again . If
> any doubt just ask Phyllis Pacin at: ppacin@yahoo.com about ROCKY which
> she made years ago and gained a great raku reputation.
>
> Frank Colson
> www.R2D2u.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brenda G. Anderson"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 4:37 AM
> Subject: small raku kiln
>
>
> I am ready to take the big step to raku and the great outdoors.
>
> I want to build a small raku kiln for tiles and small items. Some
> wonderful local potters, Val Webb and John Rezner, have given me some
> ideas.
>
> Does anyone have specific instructions for a kiln? Do I use fire bricks
> or ceramic fiber for outdoors? I am using bricks for the outer layer.
> Do I put in a pyrometer or just guess it for the first few times?
> Remember it is small and gas fired.
>
> Any specific instructions (I need step by step) would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Brenda G. Anderson
> Daughter of Clay Pottery
> (yes, my late father's name was Clay)
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> _____ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 22:00:50 -0700
> From: Frank Colson
> Subject: Re: car kilnn???
>
> Mud- Normally, 1/2" gap between flanged car bed which overhangs the side
> wall slot is sufficient for expansion and contraction without losing =
heat.
> With that in place, not to worry for all future firings.
>
> Frank Colson
> www.R2D2u.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gsomdahl"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 4:57 PM
> Subject: Re: car kilnn???
>
>
>> If the bricks on the cart and the bricks in the wall are of the same
>> material they will expand at the same rate and the gap between them will
>> just get larger as they heat up.
>>
>> Mud Duck Pottery wrote:
>>
>>> What I need to know before I start to lay bricks is how much space do
>>> you allow between the bricks on the cart and the bricks on the wall of
>>> the kiln?? I assume there will be some expansion of the brick as the
>>> kiln is heated and I would think you would need to leave some space to
>>> compensate for this. I have Nils Lou's book and plans but I didn't see
>>> anything in either that addressed this.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> This is a post only account. Send replies to "gene" at my ".com" domain
>> named "somdahl".
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 19:14:07 -0700
> From: claybair
> Subject: Re: itc/rims
>
> I know you all must be tired of my regular rants
> on the wonders of Hardibacker.... BUT I cut
> a piece the shape of the kiln brick rim and put some
> electrical tape over the edges. It's the perfect brick protector
> and doesn't add more than 1/4 inch which being vertically challenged
> is an issue for me.
>
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> Tucson, AZ
> http://claybair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: "jlutz"
> the top rim of brick of my "new" electric kiln is
> crumbling -
> -----------------
> The top rim of firebricks will last longer if you protect it
> with a piece of plywood when you load/unload the kiln. Cut
> the plywood with a curve so that it fits across the top of
> the kiln.
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:56:08 -0400
> From: Scott Hunnicutt
> Subject: brown ^10 reduction?
>
> does anyone have a brown glaze for cone 10 reduction?
>
> thanks,
> Scott Hunnicutt
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 22:16:01 -0400
> From: Helen Bates
> Subject: Richard Aerni links
>
>> Do you have a name for Richard Aerni's studio and website?
>>
>> Thanks, Jackie Miller
>
> Hi Jackie,
>
> Richard Aerni, who's a long-time Clayarter, does not have his own web
> site, but Bill Amsterlaw and I have a "Clayart Websites" entry for him.
> Here's the jump link to the entry:
> http://amsterlaw.com/clayart.html?aerni
>
> There are some really solid and fine functional pieces on view! :)
>
> --
> Helen Bates
> Belleville, Ontario, Canada
> Clayarters' URLs: http://amsterlaw.com/clayart/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 22:08:39 -0400
> From: Paul Borian
> Subject: Can't post to clayart.....
>
> i used to always post from this page:
>
> http://lsv.ceramics.org/archivedata/clayart.html
>
> but they never seems to work anymore. Can anyone tell me what the email
> address is so i can post directly from my email?
> thanks,
> Paul Borian
> Blanket Creek Pottery
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 19:38:52 -0700
> From: Susan P
> Subject: Re: Pointy-bottomed coffee cups
>
> There is also the possibility that one could just have a pointy-bottomed
> mug and no holder. It would then be non-functional and could be fine art!
>
> Susan near Seattle
>
> On 9/25/06, Amanda Blum - Howling Zoe Productions
> wrote:
>>
>> I've been making such things as tea cups for a while, based on a
>> professors
>> credo that all cups should have a "place". Pointed bottoms with
>> specialized
>> bases as the saucers. The process though, is somewhat flawed in that
>> generally speaking people want the cup holding process to be one handed,
>> rather than two.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Bruce
>> Girrell Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 8:54 AM
>> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>> Subject: Pointy-bottomed coffee cups
>>
>> Patrick Cross wrote:
>> > Now there's an intriguing idea. Perhaps such a cup should come with
>> it's
>> > own miniature coffee table with a hole the cup fits in...and with an
>> > inset tray off to one side for you biscotti(sp?).
>> >
>> > I think *I* might make a coffee cup with a pointed base.
>>
>> You may have something there. For sure, nobody at work would be running
>> off
>> with _your_ coffee mug if they were incapable of setting it down without
>> spilling it.
>>
>> Most pots from Mata Ortiz have a steeply rounded, almost pointy, bottom.
>> They are set in a yarn wrapped fired clay ring, called an anillo
>> (literally
>> "ring"), sized to fit the bottom of the pot. They are quite stable that
>> way.
>> No room for any biscotti, though.
>>
>> Bruce Girrell
>>
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ____ __
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: =
9/22/2006
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: =
9/22/2006
>>
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 19:35:19 -0700
> From: Paul Herman
> Subject: Re: Celedon For Woodkilns
>
> BJ,
>
> Try this one. It won't run.
>
> Great Basin Pottery Celadon (with a hat tip to old Bernard Leach)
>
> Custer 40
>
> Silica 36
>
> Whiting 20
>
> Grolleg kaolin 16
>
> red iron oxide 1.12
>
> I realize it doesn't add up to 100, but that's just the way it is in
> my recipe book. It's a modification of the Leach 4321 glaze. I
> regularly use it in wood firings here, inside the pot or out. If you
> don't like speckles, ball mill it, and it will benefit from 1/4%
> epsom salt.
>
> I hope to meet you there in AZ, along with a lot of other folks.
>
> Best,
>
> Paul Herman
>
> Great Basin Pottery
> Doyle, California US
> http://greatbasinpottery.com
>
>
> On Sep 25, 2006, at 3:49 PM, BJ Clark | Stinking Desert Ceramics wrote:
>
>> Hello list,
>> I'm in a bit of a pickle. I'm looking for a nice celedon liner
>> that will
>> fire well in a woodkiln. The recipe I've used for years that I got in
>> college runs at ^10.5, and since I've yet to build a woodkiln, all
>> my glazes
>> are tweaked for the ^10 range.
>> I'm going to the Woodfire Conference in a week and just realized I
>> don't
>> have a celedon recipe (well, any good glossy liner for that matter)
>> in my
>> notes that I trust to be stable at ^11 or 12. I'm using Jiki
>> porcelin from
>> Mile Hi.
>>
>> Could anyone share a tried and true celedon with me? I'm desperate.
>>
>> --
>> BJ Clark
>> Stinking Desert Ceramics
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 20:46:54 -0600
> From: BJ Clark | Stinking Desert Ceramics
> Subject: Sea Shells
>
> Hello All,
> Another Woodfire Conference related question for everyone out there.
> Anyone know where to BUY sea shells that are suitable for use a wadding.
> I need them before Oct. 2 and I'm very, very, very landlocked.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> BJ Clark
> Stinking Desert Ceramics
> bjclark@stinkingdesert.com
> www.stinkingdesert.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:49:16 -0500
> From: threereeds1
> Subject: Re: reposting....new member
>
> Maggie, I recall reading this post earlier today. Perhaps you missed it?
>
> Be well,
> Tom King
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "maggie jones"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 7:27 PM
> Subject: reposting....new member
>
>
>> I posted this at 1:30pm Monday...at 8:30 pm no show, so i am tryin
>> again...
>>
>> ...how long does it usually take for posts to show up?
>>
>> ********************************************
>>
>> Hi folks...I just joined yesterday. I had been a part of the list many
>> yrs ago and could not handle the no. of e-mails so was reluctant to
>> re-join! I am looking forward to interesting discussions.
>>
>>
>> I am looking for ways to spread the word on this scholarship opportunity
>> that the American Art Pottery Association is offering. If any one has
>> suggestions just let me know.
>> I made a post last night and you can contact me for a pdf file with full
>> details. It is a $1000 scholarship, deadline feb 7th...any body teaching
>> in the BFA program out there?... let your students know, it is a good
>> project for a ceramic student.
>> Thanks and have a good day,
>> Maggie
>>
>>
>>
>> Maggie and Freeman Jones
>> Turtle Island Pottery
>> Black Mountain, NC
>> http://TurtleIslandPottery.com
>> http://amartpot.org trustee
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________
>> ______ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 22:25:32 -0500
> From: mel jacobson
> Subject: clayart instructions/read and save please
>
> USE THE DELETE KEY ALONG WITH READING. IT IS YOUR BEST FRIEND.
> IF YOU ARE GOING TO SELL SOMETHING...MAKE SURE YOU LIST YOUR
> LOCATION IN THE SUBJECT. : KILN FOR SALE: OREGON
> we have over two thousand clayarters reading clayart each day from
> nearly ninety countries. someone from Australia does not want
> to read about a kiln for sale in \Outback, Georgia.
> mel
> >>Remember, using the DIGEST form of clayart will only give you one =
email
> a day.
>
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> >>
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> >> Also send it to: LISTSRV@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
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> End of CLAYART Digest - 24 Sep 2006 to 25 Sep 2006 (#2006-258)
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