mel jacobson on mon 25 sep 06
one of the methods that i find to work
with almost total perfection to repair gaps and
breaks, is to use itc/ soaked fiber.
if you add cement, it will shrink away in no time.
and, it will fall into your pots.
i just made up a batch the other day and repaired
all the breaks and gaps in my big gas kiln.
they stay put forever.
i just scrunch up the ceramic fiber into a
cup with some itc 100 and water.
and then just smooosh it into the crack.
it might be helpful to take a knife and scrape out
the dust and junk, make the gap clean.
it is also good to
use a spray bottle and wet the crack.
then just fire the kiln...it is repaired.
school electric kilns are notorious for being
nothing but broken surface brick and hanging coils.
we just fired those for about 80 more times.
it made no difference..whatsoever.
kilns are not your furniture...you do not have
to make them look like your living room.
they are tools...the more you use them, the
more they take on the quality of a real tool.
it is called `kiln patina`.
i have always laughed at the `stainless polish`
that skutt may still send with the new kiln...god,
who would have time, or want to do that?
i would be like waxing your chain saw. whwow, got
to make it look nice. no, you want it to run well.
mel
as i have said...i have a 1965 skutt and a 1966 L@L.
both are as good as new...i only bisque fire in them.
in many electric kilns, if you stay just at cone 6 and
below...they last a long time. it is cone 10 that often
kicks the bejeesus out of them.
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
normana on mon 25 sep 06
Hi, Mel
A while ago you mentioned that you use itc on your posts to stop them
from sticking to the advancer shelves, I saved the post but lost the
computer.
Was it the itc 100 that you used?
Thanks, Norman
mel jacobson wrote:
> one of the methods that i find to work
> with almost total perfection to repair gaps and
> breaks, is to use itc/ soaked fiber.
>
> if you add cement, it will shrink away in no time.
> and, it will fall into your pots.
>
> i just made up a batch the other day and repaired
> all the breaks and gaps in my big gas kiln.
>
> they stay put forever.
>
> i just scrunch up the ceramic fiber into a
> cup with some itc 100 and water.
> and then just smooosh it into the crack.
>
> it might be helpful to take a knife and scrape out
> the dust and junk, make the gap clean.
> it is also good to
> use a spray bottle and wet the crack.
> then just fire the kiln...it is repaired.
>
> school electric kilns are notorious for being
> nothing but broken surface brick and hanging coils.
> we just fired those for about 80 more times.
> it made no difference..whatsoever.
>
> kilns are not your furniture...you do not have
> to make them look like your living room.
> they are tools...the more you use them, the
> more they take on the quality of a real tool.
> it is called `kiln patina`.
> i have always laughed at the `stainless polish`
> that skutt may still send with the new kiln...god,
> who would have time, or want to do that?
> i would be like waxing your chain saw. whwow, got
> to make it look nice. no, you want it to run well.
> mel
>
> as i have said...i have a 1965 skutt and a 1966 L@L.
> both are as good as new...i only bisque fire in them.
> in many electric kilns, if you stay just at cone 6 and
> below...they last a long time. it is cone 10 that often
> kicks the bejeesus out of them.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Donna Ward on mon 25 sep 06
Mel, this subject is timely.
Please tell me what itc is and where I can obtain some.
Thank you
Donna Ward
> [Original Message]
> From: mel jacobson
> To:
> Date: 9/25/2006 8:52:18 AM
> Subject: kiln repair tip
>
> one of the methods that i find to work
> with almost total perfection to repair gaps and
> breaks, is to use itc/ soaked fiber.
>
> if you add cement, it will shrink away in no time.
> and, it will fall into your pots.
>
> i just made up a batch the other day and repaired
> all the breaks and gaps in my big gas kiln.
>
> they stay put forever.
>
> i just scrunch up the ceramic fiber into a
> cup with some itc 100 and water.
> and then just smooosh it into the crack.
>
> it might be helpful to take a knife and scrape out
> the dust and junk, make the gap clean.
> it is also good to
> use a spray bottle and wet the crack.
> then just fire the kiln...it is repaired.
>
> school electric kilns are notorious for being
> nothing but broken surface brick and hanging coils.
> we just fired those for about 80 more times.
> it made no difference..whatsoever.
>
> kilns are not your furniture...you do not have
> to make them look like your living room.
> they are tools...the more you use them, the
> more they take on the quality of a real tool.
> it is called `kiln patina`.
> i have always laughed at the `stainless polish`
> that skutt may still send with the new kiln...god,
> who would have time, or want to do that?
> i would be like waxing your chain saw. whwow, got
> to make it look nice. no, you want it to run well.
> mel
>
> as i have said...i have a 1965 skutt and a 1966 L@L.
> both are as good as new...i only bisque fire in them.
> in many electric kilns, if you stay just at cone 6 and
> below...they last a long time. it is cone 10 that often
> kicks the bejeesus out of them.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
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W J Seidl on mon 25 sep 06
Yeah, Mel, it does have to work well. But I don't want anything to do with
a chainsaw dripping with bar & chain oil, covered in a mixture of sawdust,
wood chips and gasoline.
Using a machine like that is just plain dangerous. "Oops, it slipped outta
my hands. Oh well, the doc can sew that back on I guess."
Take a minute and wipe the damn thing off.
Same with a wheel, a pugmill, a kiln, anything with moving parts.
You spent good money to buy it, now take care of it. (Waxing is optional)
Keeping your equipment clean makes you look like a professional, like you
actually care.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
grinding 40 years of rust off a Walker...grrrrrrr
it would be like waxing your chain saw. wow, got
to make it look nice. no, you want it to run well.
mel
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