Snail Scott on sat 1 jul 06
At 06:26 AM 7/1/2006 -0700, Marianne wrote:
> Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
> I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a variegated,
orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze.
Don't underfire a gloss glaze to get a matte.
You will get better, more reliable, stronger
glazes if they are intended to be matte: i.e.
fully melted but microcrystalline, NOT just
undermelted. Sure, there are uses for underfired
glazes (just another term for engobes, really)
;) but why start with that if glaze is what
you really want?
Besides, nice variegation is mostly a product of
melting. You won't get that in an engobe.
Look for recipes containing magnesium, or dolomite
(which is partly made of magnesium). These will
make glazes which are 'true' mattes. So will other
things, but looking for magnesium in a recipe is
an easy start.
For a nice orangey-brown matte, search the archives
for a glaze called 'Burboe'; I've posted it before.
(It's out of a magazine, years ago; I've long since
lost the attribution.) It's got Albany slip listed,
but it will do fine with a 1-to-1 substitution of
Alberta slip.
-Snail
marianne kuiper milks on sat 1 jul 06
I have a recipe for kilnwash I do not like. It is crumbly and flakey, hard to put on the shelves. In addition it doesn't really help to successfully remove any glaze drips, tiny and occasional as they may be.
I have looked in the archives on various occasions, but cannot be sure of a good wash unless someone tells me "this one is IT".
I have also bought a jar-full, but want to make my own.
Anyone willing to share a successful recipe?? I'm stingy with my chemicals and hate to waste more.
Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a variegated, orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze. It will be used on sculptural, non-functional pieces only. The same for a darker brown, like a Temmoku, but again matt, at the most a matt-satin. I've tested different recipes and have not found one that is matt-satin enough to my liking.
I realize that , if i found the right colors, I could slightly under-fire my pieces, but I am not familiar/experienced enough with my gas kiln to be able to control it predicatbly. I'm working hard on that!
Suggestions MUCH appreciated!
Carpe Diem
Marianne
---------------------------------
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Lynne Antone on sat 1 jul 06
Marianne,
Does it have to be a glaze? I have used a recipe from a Lana Wilson workshop, I think John Conrad, but not sure without going out to the studio to check. It is an engobe, pretty dry, but gets areas or flecks of shine sometimes. You can formulate your own colors using stains and it works great at cone 5-6. The higher it fires, the shinier it can get. I was using it under a white lichen glaze to get great colors in the cracks for contrast.
If you think thiswill work, I can send you the recipe. This is not a smooth surface, dry like alot of Lana's glazes. You might check her book if you can for more matte, dry surfaces if you want to go that direction.
Lynne
--
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA
USA
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: marianne kuiper milks
> Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
> I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a variegated,
> orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze. It will be used on sculptural,
> non-functional pieces only. The same for a darker brown, like a Temmoku, but
> again matt, at the most a matt-satin. I've tested different recipes and have not
> found one that is matt-satin enough to my liking.
> I realize that , if i found the right colors, I could slightly under-fire my
> pieces, but I am not familiar/experienced enough with my gas kiln to be able to
> control it predicatbly. I'm working hard on that!
marianne kuiper milks on sat 1 jul 06
Hello Lynne,
Thank you for replying.
It indeed does not have to be a glaze. I have worked with stains/engobes only once and actually didn't think in that direction.
These are for sculptural pieces, most very textured, folded...should be interesting for collected glazes. But I don't want it shiny. I tried it on a little piece I liked. Now I don't. :-)
I'd love to have it and play with tests. Thank you!
Marianne Kuiper Milks
Honesdale, PA
Lynne Antone wrote: Marianne,
Does it have to be a glaze? I have used a recipe from a Lana Wilson workshop, I think John Conrad, but not sure without going out to the studio to check. It is an engobe, pretty dry, but gets areas or flecks of shine sometimes. You can formulate your own colors using stains and it works great at cone 5-6. The higher it fires, the shinier it can get. I was using it under a white lichen glaze to get great colors in the cracks for contrast.
If you think thiswill work, I can send you the recipe. This is not a smooth surface, dry like alot of Lana's glazes. You might check her book if you can for more matte, dry surfaces if you want to go that direction.
Lynne
--
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA
USA
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: marianne kuiper milks
> Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
> I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a variegated,
> orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze. It will be used on sculptural,
> non-functional pieces only. The same for a darker brown, like a Temmoku, but
> again matt, at the most a matt-satin. I've tested different recipes and have not
> found one that is matt-satin enough to my liking.
> I realize that , if i found the right colors, I could slightly under-fire my
> pieces, but I am not familiar/experienced enough with my gas kiln to be able to
> control it predicatbly. I'm working hard on that!
______________________________________________________________________________
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William & Susan Schran User on sat 1 jul 06
On 7/1/06 9:26 AM, "marianne kuiper milks"
wrote:
> I have a recipe for kilnwash I do not like. It is crumbly and flakey, hard to
> put on the shelves. In addition it doesn't really help to successfully remove
> any glaze drips, tiny and occasional as they may be.
We've been using a very simple effective kiln wash recipe at school for many
years.
By volume: 1/2 alumina, 1/2 EPK (or any kaolin).
Clean off ALL existing kiln wash.
Wash the shelf with sponge & water to remove al dust.
Apply two coats new kiln wash with paint roller (we have a small 4" roller
just for this). First coat in one direction, second coat in the adjacent
direction.
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Jeff Guin on sun 2 jul 06
Dear Marianne,
the recipe we use at Viterbo University is 50% flint/50% kaolin. Works well
for both high fire cone 10 and lowfire. We mix it up, seive it, and apply it
to clean dustfree shelves with a big paint brush or roller.
Jeff Guin
Coon Valley, WI
http://mudwerks.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/
>From: marianne kuiper milks
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Recipe for kilnwash needed..
>Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2006 06:26:14 -0700
>
>I have a recipe for kilnwash I do not like. It is crumbly and flakey, hard
>to put on the shelves. In addition it doesn't really help to successfully
>remove any glaze drips, tiny and occasional as they may be.
>
> I have looked in the archives on various occasions, but cannot be sure of
>a good wash unless someone tells me "this one is IT".
> I have also bought a jar-full, but want to make my own.
> Anyone willing to share a successful recipe?? I'm stingy with my
>chemicals and hate to waste more.
>
> Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
> I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a variegated,
>orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze. It will be used on sculptural,
>non-functional pieces only. The same for a darker brown, like a Temmoku,
>but again matt, at the most a matt-satin. I've tested different recipes and
>have not found one that is matt-satin enough to my liking.
> I realize that , if i found the right colors, I could slightly under-fire
>my pieces, but I am not familiar/experienced enough with my gas kiln to be
>able to control it predicatbly. I'm working hard on that!
>
> Suggestions MUCH appreciated!
>
> Carpe Diem
> Marianne
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Sneak preview the all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just
>radically better.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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Edouard Bastarache Inc. on sun 2 jul 06
I have a few C/9½ Redux tested dolomitic glazes
here,
pictures and recipes :
http://lapoterie.blogspot.com/
Later,
Edouard Bastarache
Le Français Volant
The Flying Frenchman
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
edouardb@sorel-tracy.qc.ca
www.sorel-tracy.qc.ca/~edouardb/Welcome.html
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/smart2000/index.htm
http://www.pshcanada.com/Toxicology.htm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/
http://www.ceramicanorio.com/exposicoesetc/exposiçoesetc.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
To:
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 12:16 AM
Subject: Re: Recipe for kilnwash needed..
> At 06:26 AM 7/1/2006 -0700, Marianne wrote:
>> Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
>> I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am
>> looking for a variegated,
> orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze.
>
>
>
> Don't underfire a gloss glaze to get a matte.
> You will get better, more reliable, stronger
> glazes if they are intended to be matte: i.e.
> fully melted but microcrystalline, NOT just
> undermelted. Sure, there are uses for underfired
> glazes (just another term for engobes, really)
> ;) but why start with that if glaze is what
> you really want?
>
> Besides, nice variegation is mostly a product of
> melting. You won't get that in an engobe.
>
> Look for recipes containing magnesium, or
> dolomite
> (which is partly made of magnesium). These will
> make glazes which are 'true' mattes. So will
> other
> things, but looking for magnesium in a recipe is
> an easy start.
>
> For a nice orangey-brown matte, search the
> archives
> for a glaze called 'Burboe'; I've posted it
> before.
> (It's out of a magazine, years ago; I've long
> since
> lost the attribution.) It's got Albany slip
> listed,
> but it will do fine with a 1-to-1 substitution
> of
> Alberta slip.
>
>
> -Snail
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Fred Parker on sun 2 jul 06
>
> Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
> I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a variegated,
orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze. It will be used on sculptural,
non-functional pieces only. >
>
There's a strange, but simple wood ash glaze floating around
called "Woodash Ochre." You might know about it already, and you might
not like it.
However, in case you aren't familiar with it, it is 50% wood ash, 25%
yellow ochre and 25% custer spar. I have used it at cone 6 and slightly
above, but it does well at 6 -- maybe lower also. It does not exhibit
the "runny" characteristic of typical wood ash glazes. To date, I have
done two tests and also used it on two or three pieces. The best
description I can give is that it looks a lot like cast iron that has been
buried in the ground gor a decade or so, dug up and given a good
cleaning. It's a darkish medium brown, semi matte leaning a little toward
orange, and where it is heavy it tends to change surface to slightly
lighter and smoother.
It's big variable is, of course the wood ash, and I will never repeat the
mix I currently have. I got mine from a friend's fireplace. SHe has two
cats and burned a lot of those purchased firelogs you get at the grocery
along with sticks from her back yard. I washed nothing. I sieved nothing
prior to mixing. It all went into the bucket -- kitty hair, turds,
hairballs and all -- and, to be honest the mixed result is not a pretty
sight (or smell). After sieving the mix (through a #80 sieve) it was the
consistency of sour cream -- very thick. I dipped the first test, then
redipped the top half of the test tile. I was sure it would run. Must
have been almost a quarter inch of the glaze on the tile. However, no
runs. A slight sag where thickest, but no runs. For the finished pieces
I glazed, one was dipped and two were sprayed (after MUCH thinning). Very
forgiving re application method and thickness.
Last thing I noticed about it is it seems to do some nice things when
layered with other glazes -- especially if not uniform. With another high-
flux glaze I did notice the beginning of some more typical ash glaze
runs. I have done no testing re stability, and would never use it in
contact with food.
Fred Parker
...Down South, where it's hot and,
is that a catbox I smell?...
marianne kuiper milks on sun 2 jul 06
Thank you, Jeff.
One more question: how much or what percentage water do you add?
The last recipe I used ended up the consistency of dried-up mustard, gritty and all...
Marianne
PS Where is Viterbo University?
Jeff Guin wrote: Dear Marianne,
the recipe we use at Viterbo University is 50% flint/50% kaolin. Works well
for both high fire cone 10 and lowfire. We mix it up, seive it, and apply it
to clean dustfree shelves with a big paint brush or roller.
Jeff Guin
Coon Valley, WI
http://mudwerks.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/
>From: marianne kuiper milks
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Recipe for kilnwash needed..
>Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2006 06:26:14 -0700
>
>I have a recipe for kilnwash I do not like. It is crumbly and flakey, hard
>to put on the shelves. In addition it doesn't really help to successfully
>remove any glaze drips, tiny and occasional as they may be.
>
> I have looked in the archives on various occasions, but cannot be sure of
>a good wash unless someone tells me "this one is IT".
> I have also bought a jar-full, but want to make my own.
> Anyone willing to share a successful recipe?? I'm stingy with my
>chemicals and hate to waste more.
>
> Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
> I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a variegated,
>orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze. It will be used on sculptural,
>non-functional pieces only. The same for a darker brown, like a Temmoku,
>but again matt, at the most a matt-satin. I've tested different recipes and
>have not found one that is matt-satin enough to my liking.
> I realize that , if i found the right colors, I could slightly under-fire
>my pieces, but I am not familiar/experienced enough with my gas kiln to be
>able to control it predicatbly. I'm working hard on that!
>
> Suggestions MUCH appreciated!
>
> Carpe Diem
> Marianne
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Sneak preview the all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just
>radically better.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
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______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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Jeff Guin on mon 3 jul 06
I think the amount of water is a personal prefrence, although if too thick
it does just crack and peel. Oh, and Viterbo University is in La Crosse, WI.
http://mudwerks.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/
>From: marianne kuiper milks
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Recipe for kilnwash needed..
>Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 09:42:20 -0700
>
>Thank you, Jeff.
> One more question: how much or what percentage water do you add?
> The last recipe I used ended up the consistency of dried-up mustard,
>gritty and all...
> Marianne
> PS Where is Viterbo University?
>
>Jeff Guin wrote: Dear Marianne,
>the recipe we use at Viterbo University is 50% flint/50% kaolin. Works well
>for both high fire cone 10 and lowfire. We mix it up, seive it, and apply
>it
>to clean dustfree shelves with a big paint brush or roller.
>
>Jeff Guin
>Coon Valley, WI
>
>http://mudwerks.blogspot.com
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/
>
>
>
>
> >From: marianne kuiper milks
> >Reply-To: Clayart
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> >Subject: Recipe for kilnwash needed..
> >Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2006 06:26:14 -0700
> >
> >I have a recipe for kilnwash I do not like. It is crumbly and flakey,
>hard
> >to put on the shelves. In addition it doesn't really help to successfully
> >remove any glaze drips, tiny and occasional as they may be.
> >
> > I have looked in the archives on various occasions, but cannot be sure
>of
> >a good wash unless someone tells me "this one is IT".
> > I have also bought a jar-full, but want to make my own.
> > Anyone willing to share a successful recipe?? I'm stingy with my
> >chemicals and hate to waste more.
> >
> > Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
> > I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a
>variegated,
> >orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze. It will be used on sculptural,
> >non-functional pieces only. The same for a darker brown, like a Temmoku,
> >but again matt, at the most a matt-satin. I've tested different recipes
>and
> >have not found one that is matt-satin enough to my liking.
> > I realize that , if i found the right colors, I could slightly
>under-fire
> >my pieces, but I am not familiar/experienced enough with my gas kiln to
>be
> >able to control it predicatbly. I'm working hard on that!
> >
> > Suggestions MUCH appreciated!
> >
> > Carpe Diem
> > Marianne
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >Sneak preview the all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just
> >radically better.
> >
> >______________________________________________________________________________
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> >melpots@pclink.com.
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
>Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
>countries) for 2¢/min or less.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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marianne kuiper milks on mon 3 jul 06
Hello Jeff,
I thank you for your reply, as well as adding to my knowledge of academic geography. One of my violin students is now studying at the U of Wisconsin. Never been to (through, yes) Wisconsin and hope to visit her there and take a side-tour through Wisc. at that time.
The comment about being too thick and peeling etc was exactly what I needed. That is what my last kilnwash did and it confused the beans out of me.
So off I go: mixing, brushing and firing my next batch of sculpture. SO exciting, isn't it? I think that's what I love about all this most; every aspect, from thought to drawing, from loading to unloading the kiln. Cherish the moment, indeed.
I wish you a wonderful day.
Marianne
Jeff Guin wrote: I think the amount of water is a personal prefrence, although if too thick
it does just crack and peel. Oh, and Viterbo University is in La Crosse, WI.
http://mudwerks.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/
>From: marianne kuiper milks
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Recipe for kilnwash needed..
>Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2006 09:42:20 -0700
>
>Thank you, Jeff.
> One more question: how much or what percentage water do you add?
> The last recipe I used ended up the consistency of dried-up mustard,
>gritty and all...
> Marianne
> PS Where is Viterbo University?
>
>Jeff Guin wrote: Dear Marianne,
>the recipe we use at Viterbo University is 50% flint/50% kaolin. Works well
>for both high fire cone 10 and lowfire. We mix it up, seive it, and apply
>it
>to clean dustfree shelves with a big paint brush or roller.
>
>Jeff Guin
>Coon Valley, WI
>
>http://mudwerks.blogspot.com
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/
>
>
>
>
> >From: marianne kuiper milks
> >Reply-To: Clayart
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> >Subject: Recipe for kilnwash needed..
> >Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2006 06:26:14 -0700
> >
> >I have a recipe for kilnwash I do not like. It is crumbly and flakey,
>hard
> >to put on the shelves. In addition it doesn't really help to successfully
> >remove any glaze drips, tiny and occasional as they may be.
> >
> > I have looked in the archives on various occasions, but cannot be sure
>of
> >a good wash unless someone tells me "this one is IT".
> > I have also bought a jar-full, but want to make my own.
> > Anyone willing to share a successful recipe?? I'm stingy with my
> >chemicals and hate to waste more.
> >
> > Second request for a cone 5-6 glaze
> > I do not know how to call this glaze, but I am looking for a
>variegated,
> >orange/brownish, matt or satin-matt glaze. It will be used on sculptural,
> >non-functional pieces only. The same for a darker brown, like a Temmoku,
> >but again matt, at the most a matt-satin. I've tested different recipes
>and
> >have not found one that is matt-satin enough to my liking.
> > I realize that , if i found the right colors, I could slightly
>under-fire
> >my pieces, but I am not familiar/experienced enough with my gas kiln to
>be
> >able to control it predicatbly. I'm working hard on that!
> >
> > Suggestions MUCH appreciated!
> >
> > Carpe Diem
> > Marianne
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >Sneak preview the all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just
> >radically better.
> >
> >______________________________________________________________________________
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> >melpots@pclink.com.
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
>Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+
>countries) for 2¢/min or less.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
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______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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marianne kuiper milks on mon 3 jul 06
Hi Lynne,
This is FABULOUS. I have Lana Wilson's video (NCECA) but will have to get her book. (ANY even poor reason to get a book..:-)
I will also have to add to my collection of Mason stains since I only have 3 of those you mentioned. Some (6666) must be super-devilishly good.
I think this is indeed what I was searching for. So much to learn..I love it.
The slight sheen you mentioned is also what I want. I think. I'll play and find out. I learned a really good way of making test tiles from John Hesselberth. I will adapt what he did to non-overlapping colors, since that doesn't (appear) to make sense here. I wonder: is it my disorganized living-habbits that makes me love organization in clay so much? Interesting.
Much appreciated and I hope the sun shines in Washington.
Marianne
Lynne Antone wrote: Marianne,
Here are some of my notes on the Engobe we tested at the workshop. I have used it here at home, too. Your best bet is to get a look at Lana Wilson's book; it has some really cool dry glazes, mostly non- foodsafe, which you are not worried about, but some interesting effects she gets. Let me know if you need more info.
Lynne
John Conrad Engobe page 59, Altered ^6
for tests, x 4
Borax 4 16
Whiting 4 16
Neph Sy 26 104
Potash Feld 12 48
EPK 17 68
OM-4 17 68
Silica 20 80
Total 100 400
Add 10% 6600 for black or use 6666 cobalt free black and add 1% cobalt oxide. First test 13 and 14 used 6666 and got a dark brown.
Tests done are on tiles marked with percentages to 100 gram batch. Made 400 grams of base then divided into 50 gram batches to test oxides and stains -
#6 white, no additions to base
#7 2.5 gr. Cobalt Carbonate Dark Blue
#8 6.0 gr. 6450 Yellow 12%
#9 2 Chrome Oxide + 1.5 Cobalt Carb. Dark Blue Green 4% Chrome Oxide + 3% Cobalt Carb
#10 4.5 gr. Red Iron Ox. Brown 9%
#11 6 gr. 6387 Mulberry 12 %
#12 3 gr. 6363 Sky Blue 6%
#13 10 gr. 6002 Rose Pink 20%
#14 5 gr. 6666 Cobalt Free (10%) + 0.5 gr. Cobalt Oxide (1%) for Black
Results: see test tile, noticed that most engobes have a shinyness to them where there is no glaze.
Note that the numbered stains are all Mason Stains.
--
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA
USA
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: marianne kuiper milks
> Hello Lynne,
>
> Thank you for replying.
> It indeed does not have to be a glaze. I have worked with stains/engobes only
> once and actually didn't think in that direction.
> These are for sculptural pieces, most very textured, folded...should be
> interesting for collected glazes. But I don't want it shiny. I tried it on a
> little piece I liked. Now I don't. :-)
>
> I'd love to have it and play with tests. Thank you!
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Lynne Antone on mon 3 jul 06
Marianne,
Here are some of my notes on the Engobe we tested at the workshop. I have used it here at home, too. Your best bet is to get a look at Lana Wilson's book; it has some really cool dry glazes, mostly non- foodsafe, which you are not worried about, but some interesting effects she gets. Let me know if you need more info.
Lynne
John Conrad Engobe page 59, Altered ^6
for tests, x 4
Borax 4 16
Whiting 4 16
Neph Sy 26 104
Potash Feld 12 48
EPK 17 68
OM-4 17 68
Silica 20 80
Total 100 400
Add 10% 6600 for black or use 6666 cobalt free black and add 1% cobalt oxide. First test 13 and 14 used 6666 and got a dark brown.
Tests done are on tiles marked with percentages to 100 gram batch. Made 400 grams of base then divided into 50 gram batches to test oxides and stains -
#6 white, no additions to base
#7 2.5 gr. Cobalt Carbonate Dark Blue
#8 6.0 gr. 6450 Yellow 12%
#9 2 Chrome Oxide + 1.5 Cobalt Carb. Dark Blue Green 4% Chrome Oxide + 3% Cobalt Carb
#10 4.5 gr. Red Iron Ox. Brown 9%
#11 6 gr. 6387 Mulberry 12 %
#12 3 gr. 6363 Sky Blue 6%
#13 10 gr. 6002 Rose Pink 20%
#14 5 gr. 6666 Cobalt Free (10%) + 0.5 gr. Cobalt Oxide (1%) for Black
Results: see test tile, noticed that most engobes have a shinyness to them where there is no glaze.
Note that the numbered stains are all Mason Stains.
--
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA
USA
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: marianne kuiper milks
> Hello Lynne,
>
> Thank you for replying.
> It indeed does not have to be a glaze. I have worked with stains/engobes only
> once and actually didn't think in that direction.
> These are for sculptural pieces, most very textured, folded...should be
> interesting for collected glazes. But I don't want it shiny. I tried it on a
> little piece I liked. Now I don't. :-)
>
> I'd love to have it and play with tests. Thank you!
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