Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery on sun 7 may 06
I use lots of both wax resist and latex, so maybe I can be of some
help. I will offer suggestions in the same order as the questions:
1) Either buy colored wax, or color it yourself--just add food
coloring. It burns off, and is usually visible unless you are using a
very dark clay. You could use latex, BUT...It is way more expensive
than wax. You have to prepare your brush with soapy water. You have to
continually rinse out your brush. You have to keep removing the skin
that forms over the top of the latex. AND, you have to clean up the
line along where the latex was, because when you lift it, it will flake
along the edge.
2) You can use latex for fine detail (I do, with excellent results),
BUT... You will still have to wipe the detail, because, if you don't,
you will be left with a very ragged line after lifting the latex (I
scrape along the edges with an X-acto). You don't have to wipe as
cleanly, though--that may make a big difference to you. You can use
latex between raw glaze layers, but it makes clean-up more difficult.
The latex shouldn't stick to the glaze or lift the glaze off the pot
(if it does, it means that there's a problem with that particular
latex--not latex in general. Buy it from someone else).
As I said, I use latex and wax like crazy; I couldn't do what I do
without it. However, you need to play with it, and figure out if it's
really the answer for you. If you want to pursue this, and need more
guidance, you can contact me off-list for more info.
Lynn
On May 7, 2006, at 3:29 AM, Beth Eisenberg-Schapera wrote:
> I am having a terrible problem using water based wax resist (from
> Laguna)
> for decoration and even when used on pot bottoms. My troubles are as
> follows:
>
> 1) When waxing pot bottoms, the wax invariably gets (unseen) on some
> other
> part of the pot only to be discovered later on ( as soon as it's
> glazed.)
> No matter how much care I take; I occasionally have to wash, sand and
> re-
> glaze pieces!! Can I use latex resist for this procedure? Is there a
> disadvantage?
>
> 2) I want to do an underglaze, brushed resist, glaze technique. I've
> tried this multiple times with wax. My problem is that the glaze
> "beads
> up" on the wax and can't be wiped away adequately. Besides, wiping
> this
> inticate an area takes lots of time. Would latex work for this? Can
> you
> use latex between raw glaze areas? Will the latex stick to the raw
> glaze?
> Will it pull the raw glaze off the pot? (FYI I understand that it
> needs
> to be removed before firing.)
>
> I need "freestroke" brush capabilities that items like tape (which I
> can
> never get to stick well to fresh glaze anyway) can't achieve.
>
> Anyone's thoughts would be hugely appreciated.
> Best regards,
> Beth Eisenberg-Schapera
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
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>
>
Lynn Goodman
Fine Porcelain Pottery
718-858-6920
Cell 347-526-9805
www.lynngoodmanporcelain.com
Susan P on sun 7 may 06
Maybe you need to do multiple firings? I do believe that the latex would
pull off unfired glaze.
On 5/7/06, Beth Eisenberg-Schapera wrote:
>
> I am having a terrible problem using water based wax resist (from Laguna)
> for decoration and even when used on pot bottoms. My troubles are as
> follows:
>
> 1) When waxing pot bottoms, the wax invariably gets (unseen) on some othe=
r
> part of the pot only to be discovered later on ( as soon as it's glazed.)
> No matter how much care I take; I occasionally have to wash, sand and re-
> glaze pieces!! Can I use latex resist for this procedure? Is there a
> disadvantage?
>
> 2) I want to do an underglaze, brushed resist, glaze technique. I've
> tried this multiple times with wax. My problem is that the glaze "beads
> up" on the wax and can't be wiped away adequately. Besides, wiping this
> inticate an area takes lots of time. Would latex work for this? Can you
> use latex between raw glaze areas? Will the latex stick to the raw glaze?
> Will it pull the raw glaze off the pot? (FYI I understand that it needs
> to be removed before firing.)
>
> I need "freestroke" brush capabilities that items like tape (which I can
> never get to stick well to fresh glaze anyway) can't achieve.
>
> Anyone's thoughts would be hugely appreciated.
> Best regards,
> Beth Eisenberg-Schapera
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Beth Eisenberg-Schapera on sun 7 may 06
I am having a terrible problem using water based wax resist (from Laguna)
for decoration and even when used on pot bottoms. My troubles are as
follows:
1) When waxing pot bottoms, the wax invariably gets (unseen) on some other
part of the pot only to be discovered later on ( as soon as it's glazed.)
No matter how much care I take; I occasionally have to wash, sand and re-
glaze pieces!! Can I use latex resist for this procedure? Is there a
disadvantage?
2) I want to do an underglaze, brushed resist, glaze technique. I've
tried this multiple times with wax. My problem is that the glaze "beads
up" on the wax and can't be wiped away adequately. Besides, wiping this
inticate an area takes lots of time. Would latex work for this? Can you
use latex between raw glaze areas? Will the latex stick to the raw glaze?
Will it pull the raw glaze off the pot? (FYI I understand that it needs
to be removed before firing.)
I need "freestroke" brush capabilities that items like tape (which I can
never get to stick well to fresh glaze anyway) can't achieve.
Anyone's thoughts would be hugely appreciated.
Best regards,
Beth Eisenberg-Schapera
David Woof on mon 8 may 06
Beth, in my experience, waxing feet is for folks who don't want hairy toes.
A step saving, user friendly, lean and clean method for cleaning bottoms and
foot rings, wether brushing, dipping/pouring, or spraying is to staple or
glue a piece of short, dense weave carpet onto a piece of marine plywood and
wet it thoroughly. Then after finishing glazeing, place the pot on the wet
carpet with moderate downward pressure and rotate several times, Move to
new positions until the carpet shows no more glaze stain. I get several
pots cleaned before needing to rinse the carpet, swipe off excess water with
my hand and on to the next. The carpet nap cleans up the sides just to a
functioning and pleasing height. Less than 5 seconds of time per pot
including the carpet rinse. Do I have your attention girl friend?
Overspraying the glazed surface with a viscous solution of CMC gum will
create a durable surface that allows handleing of delicate sprayed glazes
and provides a surface receptive to good old fashioned stinky (use
ventilation) rubber cement which lifts and peals off quite easily when you
are finished. Latex also I would guess? Try it?
By developing the testing habit, one grows and keeps the enthuiasm alive and
each kiln load has a test result to look forward to.
Speaking of which, I gotta go, it's 2:40 AM and the kiln needs to be turned
up. I'm doing a ^ 010 bisque and have a glass experiment in there to spice
up tomorrow's anticipation and learning factor.
Best,
David
_________________________________
_________________________________
David Woof Studio
Clarkdale, Arizona
Ph. 928-821-3747 Fax. 866-881-3461
________________________________
________________________________
peering over the edge, reverently taking an irreverent look at everything.
katetiler on mon 8 may 06
I don't use wax resist or latex myself, but I know of someone who
does, with underglazes, extremely successfully & here is her
description of creating a series of multi-glazed, & underglazed pots:
http://www.nanhamilton.com/howtodesign/painting/painting.html
I love her work and reading the webpages helped me enormously when I
began to use underglazes last year.
Beth Eisenberg-Schapera on tue 9 may 06
Many thanks for your thoughts.
Multiple firings do work as a last resort. But, energy costs are
skyrocketing. I doubt I can do that for long.
Beth Eisenberg-Schapera
Beth Eisenberg-Schapera on tue 9 may 06
Wonderful ideas re: carpet for glaze removal.
Good suggestion about cmc gum too. I will try this.
Latex hasn't been quite right yet as the resist tool I'd hoped but, I
continue to experiment.
As a very new "almost" professional potter every kiln load is still full
of many many suprises. Virtually everything is still an experiment. Thank
goodness you veterans can tell me a thing or too or I'd throw out more
than I kept.
Many thanks.
Beth Eisenberg-Schapera
Marcia Selsor on tue 9 may 06
> I use latex when I wishe to mask something and rework under it. I
> never leave the latex on for a firing.
I also use Aftosa's blue liquid wax resist. I leave it dry overnight.
Glaze comes off easily and you can see it
as compared to the clear drying liquids.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
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