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glaze help please, especially ron and john

updated sun 9 apr 06

 

louroess2210 on tue 28 mar 06


Hi glaze people, especially Ron and John,
I recently fired a stoneware bowl with a combination of the =20
following two glazes in the proportion of three fourths White to one-=20
fourth Teal Blue. The result was a beautiful robin=92s egg blue with =20=

a lot of interest.
Of course there had to be problems. The outside was smooth and =
=20
glossy, but had pinholes, some small and some quite large. Not =20
exactly crawling but larger than you usually think of pinholes. =20
There were no pinholes on the inside, so it may have been a =20
cleanliness or application problem. The inside however had a pebbly =20
surface as if the glaze hadn=92t quite melted fully. The firing went =20=

to about cone six and a half. I have had this happen before on the =20
inside of bowls, the pebbly surface, that is.
I think what I will try is mixing up a 5X20 white and trying =
the =20
combination again, but in the meantime can anyone tell me what to do =20
about the =93almost but not quite smooth=94 surface on the inside? It =20=

has happened with other glazes, too. Would firing to cone seven do it?
I use the MC6G firing cycle with a hold and slow cooling, so =
would =20
think it has time to smooth out. I never get the pebbly look on the =20
outside.
Thanks for any help you can give.
All the Best,
Lou in Colorado


20X5 Teal Blue, ^6
20 Custer Spar
20 Frit 3124
20 Wollastonite
20 EPK
20 Silica
ADD
1 Cobalt Carb.
0.5 Chrome Oxide
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
NARAGON WHITE CONE 6 Oxidation
Gerstley Borate
or Frit 3134 25.74
Dolomite 3.96
Whiting 5.94
Kona F-4 31.69
Kaolin 7.92
Flint 24.75
100
Also add :
Zircopax 11.88 %
Bentonite 2.00 %
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=

Lee Love on wed 29 mar 06


>
>
> Lou in Colorado,



How did you glaze this pot? Did you dip the entire pot or did you do
either the inside or the outside first, then the other? If you glazed the
inside and the outside separately, whch how long did you wait to apply the
other side?

Did you dust or sponge the pot before glazing/


--
Lee In Mashiko, Japan
http://mashiko.org
http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/

"The way we are, we are members of each other. All of us. Everything. Th=
e
difference ain't in who is a member and who is not, but in who knows it an=
d
ho don't."

--Burley Coulter (Wendell Berry)

Ron Roy on sat 1 apr 06


Hi Lou,

The Teal blue - using frit 3124 will not melt well at cone 6 for starters -
should that be frit 3134?

That may explain what seems to me to be an undermetlt problem.

You did not say which you used for the white - GB or 3134? If you are using
currently available GB that may explain the undermelting as well.

If you refire that bowl and theresult is better - which is like going a
cone higher - that will confire what I think is happening. If the pin holes
get worse - then it may be a bisque firing problem.

So - if you answer my questions I may be able to be more specific.

RR



>Hi glaze people, especially Ron and John,
> I recently fired a stoneware bowl with a combination of the
>following two glazes in the proportion of three fourths White to one-
>fourth Teal Blue. The result was a beautiful robin=EDs egg blue with
>a lot of interest.
> Of course there had to be problems. The outside was smooth and
>glossy, but had pinholes, some small and some quite large. Not
>exactly crawling but larger than you usually think of pinholes.
>There were no pinholes on the inside, so it may have been a
>cleanliness or application problem. The inside however had a pebbly
>surface as if the glaze hadn=EDt quite melted fully. The firing went
>to about cone six and a half. I have had this happen before on the
>inside of bowls, the pebbly surface, that is.
> I think what I will try is mixing up a 5X20 white and trying the
>combination again, but in the meantime can anyone tell me what to do
>about the =ECalmost but not quite smooth=EE surface on the inside? It
>has happened with other glazes, too. Would firing to cone seven do it?
> I use the MC6G firing cycle with a hold and slow cooling, so woul=
d
>think it has time to smooth out. I never get the pebbly look on the
>outside.
>Thanks for any help you can give.
>All the Best,
>Lou in Colorado
>
>
>20X5 Teal Blue, ^6
>20 Custer Spar
>20 Frit 3124
>20 Wollastonite
>20 EPK
>20 Silica
>ADD
>1 Cobalt Carb.
>0.5 Chrome Oxide
>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>NARAGON WHITE CONE 6 Oxidation
>Gerstley Borate
> or Frit 3134 25.74
>Dolomite 3.96
>Whiting 5.94
>Kona F-4 31.69
>Kaolin 7.92
>Flint 24.75
> 100
>Also add :
>Zircopax 11.88 %
>Bentonite 2.00 %

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0

Brenda Funk on sun 2 apr 06


I also got this teal blue glaze from Bill Van Gilder's show on DIY =
Network,
and wondered if the call for 3124 might not have been a typo. I think =
I'll
try it with 3134 and compare the two.
Brenda
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Ron Roy
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 2:21 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Glaze help please, especially Ron and John

Hi Lou,

The Teal blue - using frit 3124 will not melt well at cone 6 for =
starters -
should that be frit 3134?

That may explain what seems to me to be an undermetlt problem.

You did not say which you used for the white - GB or 3134? If you are =
using
currently available GB that may explain the undermelting as well.

If you refire that bowl and theresult is better - which is like going a =
cone
higher - that will confire what I think is happening. If the pin holes =
get
worse - then it may be a bisque firing problem.

So - if you answer my questions I may be able to be more specific.

RR



>Hi glaze people, especially Ron and John,
> I recently fired a stoneware bowl with a combination of the=20
>following two glazes in the proportion of three fourths White to one-=20
>fourth Teal Blue. The result was a beautiful robin=EDs egg blue with =
a=20
>lot of interest.
> Of course there had to be problems. The outside was smooth=20
>and glossy, but had pinholes, some small and some quite large. Not=20
>exactly crawling but larger than you usually think of pinholes.
>There were no pinholes on the inside, so it may have been a cleanliness =

>or application problem. The inside however had a pebbly surface as if=20
>the glaze hadn=EDt quite melted fully. The firing went to about cone =
six=20
>and a half. I have had this happen before on the inside of bowls, the=20
>pebbly surface, that is.
> I think what I will try is mixing up a 5X20 white and trying=20
>the combination again, but in the meantime can anyone tell me what to=20
>do about the =ECalmost but not quite smooth=EE surface on the inside? =
It=20
>has happened with other glazes, too. Would firing to cone seven do it?
> I use the MC6G firing cycle with a hold and slow cooling, so=20
>would think it has time to smooth out. I never get the pebbly look on=20
>the outside.
>Thanks for any help you can give.
>All the Best,
>Lou in Colorado
>
>
>20X5 Teal Blue, ^6
>20 Custer Spar
>20 Frit 3124
>20 Wollastonite
>20 EPK
>20 Silica
>ADD
>1 Cobalt Carb.
>0.5 Chrome Oxide
>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>NARAGON WHITE CONE 6 Oxidation
>Gerstley Borate
> or Frit 3134 25.74
>Dolomite 3.96
>Whiting 5.94
>Kona F-4 31.69
>Kaolin 7.92
>Flint 24.75
> 100
>Also add :
>Zircopax 11.88 %
>Bentonite 2.00 %

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0

_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
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Richard White on sat 8 apr 06


I saw Bill presenting at a conference and he had a handout of his glaze
recipes. The teal blue, as printed on the 2nd page, indeed calls for frit
3124. However, the base recipe printed on page 1 appears to be the same
proportions of mostly the same ingredients (without the colorants) except it=

calls for #3134. Without asking him directly, I'd also suspect it was a typo=
.

dw

On Sun, 2 Apr 2006 09:36:00 -0400, Brenda Funk wrote:

>I also got this teal blue glaze from Bill Van Gilder's show on DIY Network,=

>and wondered if the call for 3124 might not have been a typo. I think I'll
>try it with 3134 and compare the two.
>Brenda
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Ron Roy
>Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 2:21 PM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Glaze help please, especially Ron and John
>
>Hi Lou,
>
>The Teal blue - using frit 3124 will not melt well at cone 6 for starters -=

>should that be frit 3134?
>
>That may explain what seems to me to be an undermetlt problem.
>
>You did not say which you used for the white - GB or 3134? If you are using=

>currently available GB that may explain the undermelting as well.
>
>If you refire that bowl and theresult is better - which is like going a con=
e
>higher - that will confire what I think is happening. If the pin holes get
>worse - then it may be a bisque firing problem.
>
>So - if you answer my questions I may be able to be more specific.
>
>RR
>
>
>
>>Hi glaze people, especially Ron and John,
>> I recently fired a stoneware bowl with a combination of the
>>following two glazes in the proportion of three fourths White to one-
>>fourth Teal Blue. The result was a beautiful robin=EDs egg blue with a
>>lot of interest.
>> Of course there had to be problems. The outside was smooth
>>and glossy, but had pinholes, some small and some quite large. Not
>>exactly crawling but larger than you usually think of pinholes.
>>There were no pinholes on the inside, so it may have been a cleanliness
>>or application problem. The inside however had a pebbly surface as if
>>the glaze hadn=EDt quite melted fully. The firing went to about cone six
>>and a half. I have had this happen before on the inside of bowls, the
>>pebbly surface, that is.
>> I think what I will try is mixing up a 5X20 white and trying
>>the combination again, but in the meantime can anyone tell me what to
>>do about the =ECalmost but not quite smooth=EE surface on the inside? It
>>has happened with other glazes, too. Would firing to cone seven do it?
>> I use the MC6G firing cycle with a hold and slow cooling, so
>>would think it has time to smooth out. I never get the pebbly look on
>>the outside.
>>Thanks for any help you can give.
>>All the Best,
>>Lou in Colorado
>>
>>
>>20X5 Teal Blue, ^6
>>20 Custer Spar
>>20 Frit 3124
>>20 Wollastonite
>>20 EPK
>>20 Silica
>>ADD
>>1 Cobalt Carb.
>>0.5 Chrome Oxide
>>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>NARAGON WHITE CONE 6 Oxidation
>>Gerstley Borate
>> or Frit 3134 25.74
>>Dolomite 3.96
>>Whiting 5.94
>>Kona F-4 31.69
>>Kaolin 7.92
>>Flint 24.75
>> 100
>>Also add :
>>Zircopax 11.88 %
>>Bentonite 2.00 %
>
>Ron Roy
>RR#4
>15084 Little Lake Road
>Brighton, Ontario
>Canada
>K0K 1H0
>
>___________________________________________________________________________=
_
>__
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>___________________________________________________________________________=
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.=
com.