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first time buying...old scutt kiln, yea or nay

updated wed 15 mar 06

 

Earl Brunner on sun 12 mar 06


I was at my friend's high school ceramics lab awhile back and looked at his electric kiln (1027), ALL of the element groves were broken off, and the elements were just hanging on the sides of the kiln with kanthal staples he had fashioned. I said, "Gee, Andy, you really need to replace that thing!" He looked at me like I was crazy and said,"Why? it still works just fine" I said, "Maybe at home, but not in a school, what about the kids?"

I think he finally got a new one.

Earl Brunner
e-mail: brunv53@yahoo.com


----- Original Message ----
From: Snail Scott
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 7:07:05 PM
Subject: Re: first time buying...old scutt kiln, yea or nay


At 01:51 PM 3/12/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>I've recently found a old used scutt kiln in the ads under craigslist,
which around here you don't hear of many. The man said it was a model 231?
His asking price was $300.00.


My first kiln was a 231 - still have most of it -
eventually parted it out to repair my 1027. It
is the older version of the 1027. It's the same
size: six elements, and a ten-sided configuration.
The same type control knobs - lo-med-hi-off, and
usually a kiln sitter (not sure if it was standard,
but all the ones I've seen have it) but no timer.
It is rated for ^8, not ^10 as the 1027's are. Its
bricks are the older type of IFB: less insulating
capability, but harder and less fragile. It can
take the same elements and replacement bricks as
the 1027.

Mine was bought, untested, at a storage-locker
auction, with quite a few bricks and elements
visibly needing replacement. It was already elderly
when I got it, but served me well for many years
afterward. It was moving too many times that did it
in at last, not firing, and I could still have
replaced all the bad bits. It was only the cheapness
of its replacement (a 1027) that made it not worth
the effort to fix up the old 231.

Most electric kilns are very modular, and practically
everything can be replaced. There's no reason a very
old kiln can't work as well as ever, with enough
maintenance. The Skutt designs are fairly easy to
take apart and replace any bad bricks and elements,
but figure your time into the cost. Ask if you can
test the elements: just plug it in and set it on
'HI', wait ten minutes, then see if any of the
elements are still black. Figure $35 + your labor if
any are dark, and a few bucks and more labor for each
trashed brick. If it's mostly in good shape, though,
I'd grab it! (Or I will...) ;)

-Snail

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mtigges@NOSPAM.SHAW.CA on sun 12 mar 06


On Sun, Mar 12, 2006 at 01:51:29PM -0800, leta troppmann wrote:
> I've recently found a old used scutt kiln in the ads under craigslist, which around here you don't hear of many. The man said it was a model 231? His asking price was $300.00. It sounds like it has been in his garage for years -untouched. Should I stay away? This will be my first kiln purchase so I thought I'd ask the pros.
>

The only thing I would add to what others have said is, find out what
sort of glazes have been fired in it. You are interested to find out
if lead glazes have been used in it.

Mark.

leta troppmann on sun 12 mar 06


I've recently found a old used scutt kiln in the ads under craigslist, which around here you don't hear of many. The man said it was a model 231? His asking price was $300.00. It sounds like it has been in his garage for years -untouched. Should I stay away? This will be my first kiln purchase so I thought I'd ask the pros.

Any help would be appreciated!
Leta Medina
Reno,nv

Earl Brunner on sun 12 mar 06


Any used kiln may require a bit of work to getting going. If the bricks are
in good shape, and the controls are in good shape, the elements shouldn't
really be a factor if you are up to replacing them yourself. (Have to factor
the cost, but not prohibitive) Sooner or later you may have to do that
anyway. Take a good look at them. Another factor is what temp they fired
to and what temp you intend to fire to. If they always fired to cone 06
then even the elements may be in fairly good shape.

Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of leta troppmann
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 1:51 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: first time buying...old scutt kiln, yea or nay

I've recently found a old used scutt kiln in the ads under craigslist, which
around here you don't hear of many. The man said it was a model 231? His
asking price was $300.00. It sounds like it has been in his garage for years
-untouched. Should I stay away? This will be my first kiln purchase so I
thought I'd ask the pros.

Any help would be appreciated!
Leta Medina
Reno,nv

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Snail Scott on sun 12 mar 06


At 01:51 PM 3/12/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>I've recently found a old used scutt kiln in the ads under craigslist,
which around here you don't hear of many. The man said it was a model 231?
His asking price was $300.00.


My first kiln was a 231 - still have most of it -
eventually parted it out to repair my 1027. It
is the older version of the 1027. It's the same
size: six elements, and a ten-sided configuration.
The same type control knobs - lo-med-hi-off, and
usually a kiln sitter (not sure if it was standard,
but all the ones I've seen have it) but no timer.
It is rated for ^8, not ^10 as the 1027's are. Its
bricks are the older type of IFB: less insulating
capability, but harder and less fragile. It can
take the same elements and replacement bricks as
the 1027.

Mine was bought, untested, at a storage-locker
auction, with quite a few bricks and elements
visibly needing replacement. It was already elderly
when I got it, but served me well for many years
afterward. It was moving too many times that did it
in at last, not firing, and I could still have
replaced all the bad bits. It was only the cheapness
of its replacement (a 1027) that made it not worth
the effort to fix up the old 231.

Most electric kilns are very modular, and practically
everything can be replaced. There's no reason a very
old kiln can't work as well as ever, with enough
maintenance. The Skutt designs are fairly easy to
take apart and replace any bad bricks and elements,
but figure your time into the cost. Ask if you can
test the elements: just plug it in and set it on
'HI', wait ten minutes, then see if any of the
elements are still black. Figure $35 + your labor if
any are dark, and a few bucks and more labor for each
trashed brick. If it's mostly in good shape, though,
I'd grab it! (Or I will...) ;)

-Snail

ronan peterson on mon 13 mar 06


leta, i bought a model 231 for $400 when i first started making pots, around
1997 and i have been firing that kiln since. i had to replace the elements
and switches and power cord but thats been it. i initially fired to cone 6,
but for the last 5 years ive been firing cone 03 and i havent had to replace
the elements. i would just make sure the bricks arent too crumbly and the
lid and floor are sound. the electricals are fairly easy to replace and
skutt seems to keep most maintenance parts on hand. a friend of mine bought
a kiln online and it was beat up pretty bad by the shipping company. i
would pick it up myself if at all possible. good luck. ronan peterson
www.ninetoespottery.com

>From: leta troppmann
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: first time buying...old scutt kiln, yea or nay
>Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 13:51:29 -0800
>
>I've recently found a old used scutt kiln in the ads under craigslist,
>which around here you don't hear of many. The man said it was a model 231?
>His asking price was $300.00. It sounds like it has been in his garage for
>years -untouched. Should I stay away? This will be my first kiln purchase
>so I thought I'd ask the pros.
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
> Leta Medina
> Reno,nv
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

Jeff Longtin on mon 13 mar 06


Leta,
I bought my 231 from my neighbor ten years ago, for $300 bucks as well, and
it has worked like a charm ever since. She fired it in the company of a friend
so I know it worked well at the outset.
I've replaced one element and had some Kiln setter timer issues last year,
hard to find replacement parts, but once that was solved it's worked like a
charm again.

Years earlier I owned a 1227, which is a great kiln, but I found the size
just too big for my situation. This 231 came into my life at the right time and
the size and price were just right.

good luck

Jeff Longtin
in snowy minneapolis

Mitch Kotula on tue 14 mar 06


So long as the lid and bottom are in pretty good shape and the outer shell is good it is reasonable to consider rehabilitating an old kiln. Here are some considerations:

As has already been offered, elements can be purchased, reasonably, from Euclid. When one element goes out, replace all of them. For the effort of breaking down your kiln, you don't want to be "elemented" to death as one after another go out.

Replacement bricks are widely sold and the prices vary greatly. Take inventory as to what type of brick and how many of each you need and have them on-hand when the time comes to replace elements.

Switches are easy to find locally and to fix.

Kiln sitters can also be obtained from your clay supplier.

Mitch



Mitch Kotula
Development Plus
PO Box 2076
Hamilton, MT 59840-4076
406-961-5136 (Home)
406-546-6980 (Cell)

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Arnold Howard on tue 14 mar 06


In buying a used kiln, I would consider the bricks
and the condition of steel parts. If the bricks are
in good condition and the kiln has little rust, you
know it has been cared for. Many used kilns have been
fired only a few times.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mitch Kotula"
> So long as the lid and bottom are in pretty good
> shape and the outer shell is good it is reasonable
> to consider rehabilitating an old kiln.

leta troppmann on tue 14 mar 06


Thanks to everyone who gave me advice. I really appreciated your thoughts and opinions. It looks as though, well be looking around a bit more.
Leta Medina
Reno,Nv

Arnold Howard wrote:
In buying a used kiln, I would consider the bricks
and the condition of steel parts. If the bricks are
in good condition and the kiln has little rust, you
know it has been cared for. Many used kilns have been
fired only a few times.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mitch Kotula"
> So long as the lid and bottom are in pretty good
> shape and the outer shell is good it is reasonable
> to consider rehabilitating an old kiln.

______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.