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cone 6 breaking glazes

updated fri 3 mar 06

 

Susan Nebeker on thu 9 feb 06


Kat,

By all means you can get some wonderful glazes that break beautifully over texture from John and Ron's book, Mastering Cone 6 Glazes.
I have been very pleased!

Maybe you can score a copy at NCECA?

Have fun!

Susan Nebeker
Pollywog Pottery
www.pollywogpottery.com

Kat Morrell wrote:
So I am looking for a glaze that will show off my delicate embossed raised
areas.

How abut Cone 6 breaking glaze recipes? Anyone have a good one that would
show off fine embossing?




---------------------------------

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Kat Morrell on thu 9 feb 06


I have begun doing some embossing on greenware by applying hot beeswax
with short strokes, then wiping away clay with cold water. I get a
detailed - albeit fairly delicate embossed pattern on my pots. I have
been using matt glazes on my other pots=85but the matt glaze often covers up=

the fine embossing of my design. (That=92s a lot of work to be THAT
subtle!!).

So I am looking for a glaze that will show off my delicate embossed raised
areas.

I thought that a glaze that breaks into 2 different colors might show it
off the best I have been diligently learning glaze chemistry and want to
understand why a glaze breaks. I=92ve looked in my glaze chemistry books
and on digitalfire.com and searched the archives of ClayArt. I haven=92t
found a good explanation. Could someone explain why a glaze breaks into 2
colors?

How abut Cone 6 breaking glaze recipes? Anyone have a good one that would
show off fine embossing?

I=92m doing a series of test right now on plain transparent gloss glaze
(Bates Clear) with a bit of mason stain. I think it will work but might
not be very exciting.

I=92m also going to rub stain, then wipe off in one direction only =96 hopin=
g
to get a =93shadow=94 effect. Since the design is raised rather than carved=
,
it is not very easy to get the stain to stick on the design.

BTW, I spray my gazes on so I can get a fairly thin coat.

Any other ideas on glazing my pots to show off the embossed design?

Thanks in advance for all of your sagely advice. I=92m hoping to get this
idea flushed out before NECECA, where I will undoubtedly get so many new
ideas, I=92ll be off in new directions.


Kat Morrell
www.katmorrell.com

asim mahmood on fri 10 feb 06


Master Cone 6 Glazes
I got hold of this book from the library first after hearing a lot and
tested/tried a few of the glasez. The experiance was so facinating and
rewarding that ultimately I had to order this book on line and now it is
part of poor man's treasure. Asim Mahmood.


>From: Susan Nebeker
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Cone 6 breaking glazes
>Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 22:54:32 -0800
>
>Kat,
>
>By all means you can get some wonderful glazes that break beautifully over
>texture from John and Ron's book, Mastering Cone 6 Glazes.
> I have been very pleased!
>
> Maybe you can score a copy at NCECA?
>
> Have fun!
>
> Susan Nebeker
> Pollywog Pottery
> www.pollywogpottery.com
>
>Kat Morrell wrote:
> So I am looking for a glaze that will show off my delicate embossed
>raised
>areas.
>
>How abut Cone 6 breaking glaze recipes? Anyone have a good one that would
>show off fine embossing?
>
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
> What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

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John Hesselberth on fri 10 feb 06


Hi Asim,

What a nice comment. Thanks very much. You made Ron's and my day and
we are very glad you are enjoying the book.

Regards,

John
On Feb 10, 2006, at 3:21 PM, asim mahmood wrote:

> The experiance was so facinating and
> rewarding that ultimately I had to order this book on line and now
> it is
> part of poor man's treasure. Asim Mahmood.

Snail Scott on sat 11 feb 06


At 11:39 AM 2/9/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>Any other ideas on glazing my pots to show off the embossed design?


If you put a contrast-color slip on the surface
before waxing, the reserved design will end up
that color after sponging. You can do this
whether or not you apply any colorants to the
surrounding clay afterward. It will be a fairly
clean, sharp-line effect, rather different from
wiping oxide over texture, but might be a nice
combination when used together or in contrast.

-Snail

Kat Morrell on sat 11 feb 06


Thanks for the advice so far. I have been using the MC6G book. Most of
my matt glaze development came from ideas and understanding I got from
that book. I used the base for the rasberry glaze but with different
colorants to get a wine red. It is beautiful. I'm now doing tests using
much less colorant so that the embosssed designs show through more. I
tried the Waterfall Brown (which I LOVE) but it just come sout blackish
brown. I really haven't gotten the same verigated effect. I'm doing
tests with various percentages of rutile to see if that will give me
interest.

I need to find a glaze that really shows off the subtle embossing. Most
glazes ( matt and gloss) take away from the design rather than enhance
them. I'm thinking more of a celedon type transparent glaze.

Thanks to pottermim in FL who sent me a promising glaze recipie that
breaks from green to copper. I'm mixing it up today.

Any other ideas appreciated.

Ed Bull on tue 14 feb 06


Regarding waterfall brown, I found that it will be brownish black if too
thin. I bought a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity (thickness,
roughly) of the glaze and I do that for all my glazes now. I mix it up,
measure, fire a test tile or look at pots glazed with it, and record the
results in my notebook. That way I know how thick the glaze needs to be.

Neither Raspberry nor Waterfall Brown seem the best choices for what
you're trying to do, however. We find others better "breakers" from MC6G,
like Bright Sky Blue and Raw Sienna.

Anyone else got good ones? This is a very useful topic.

There's also a Janet Du Boos (sp?) Teal on the MC6G web site which we
like. It's transparent and may be worth experimenting with.
We found that if there is Raspberry near the Teal, it will blush the Teal
pinkish. And spraying some Raspberry on the Teal is very cool.

Also, if there is a gas kiln available to you, celadons would be perfect!

Cheers,
Ed Bull

mtigges@NOSPAM.SHAW.CA on wed 15 feb 06


On Tue, Feb 14, 2006 at 08:56:19PM -0500, Ed Bull wrote:
> Anyone else got good ones? This is a very useful topic.

I find both bone and field mouse brown to be very interresting across
texture.

I generally agree when you mentioned that waterfall isn't a good
choice when you're interested in breaking, but texture does affect
that glaze, and IMO in a magical way.

Mark.

Bert Gibson on wed 15 feb 06


Here is a link to one of my webpages with the Waterfall on a textured pot:

http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2584149.html

Here is a link to a flat test tile with waterfall on it:

http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2587036.html

You might check out the rest of the site for glaze combinations and examples
from MC6G. Hope it's helpful.

Bert Gibson
http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/



> On Tue, Feb 14, 2006 at 08:56:19PM -0500, Ed Bull wrote:
> > Anyone else got good ones? This is a very useful topic.

> I generally agree when you mentioned that waterfall isn't a good
> choice when you're interested in breaking, but texture does affect
> that glaze, and IMO in a magical way.
>
> Mark.

candy murguia on wed 15 feb 06


Can you post the recipe for waterfall? Its beautiful.

Candy


>From: Bert Gibson
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Cone 6 breaking glazes
>Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 17:00:40 -0800
>
>Here is a link to one of my webpages with the Waterfall on a textured pot:
>
>http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2584149.html
>
>Here is a link to a flat test tile with waterfall on it:
>
>http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2587036.html
>
>You might check out the rest of the site for glaze combinations and
>examples
>from MC6G. Hope it's helpful.
>
>Bert Gibson
>http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/
>
>
>
> > On Tue, Feb 14, 2006 at 08:56:19PM -0500, Ed Bull wrote:
> > > Anyone else got good ones? This is a very useful topic.
>
> > I generally agree when you mentioned that waterfall isn't a good
> > choice when you're interested in breaking, but texture does affect
> > that glaze, and IMO in a magical way.
> >
> > Mark.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

_________________________________________________________________
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Lynne Antone on wed 15 feb 06


Ed and all,

Interesting aside to your mention of spraying Raspberry on the Teal for an interesting effect. I had one of those "where has my brain been?" moments when I tried a series of tests with all of my glazes and altered which glaze went on first with a double dipped effect. Purple over blue was okay, but blue over purple gave me a fantastic mottled effect. Brown over white just makes a palish brown, but white over the brown gave a bubbly, ash look.

What fun I have been having. I fire all cone 6 electric and get some sweet looking combos. At least, I think so.

Lynne Antone
So tickled to be going to my first NCECA ever. I do the happy dance at least once a day. I will hopefully be able to meet some of the folks I have written to for so long. And finally back on the list after a huge upgrade to high speed internet. And I can take calls while on-line and get photos in seconds and what a wide world there is out there.

--
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA
USA

-------------- Original message --------------
From: Ed Bull

> Regarding waterfall brown, I found that it will be brownish black if too
> thin. I bought a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity (thickness,
> roughly) of the glaze and I do that for all my glazes now. I mix it up,
> measure, fire a test tile or look at pots glazed with it, and record the
> results in my notebook. That way I know how thick the glaze needs to be.
>
> Neither Raspberry nor Waterfall Brown seem the best choices for what
> you're trying to do, however. We find others better "breakers" from MC6G,
> like Bright Sky Blue and Raw Sienna.
>
> Anyone else got good ones? This is a very useful topic.
>
> There's also a Janet Du Boos (sp?) Teal on the MC6G web site which we
> like. It's transparent and may be worth experimenting with.
> We found that if there is Raspberry near the Teal, it will blush the Teal
> pinkish. And spraying some Raspberry on the Teal is very cool.
>
> Also, if there is a gas kiln available to you, celadons would be perfect!
>
> Cheers,
> Ed Bull
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Bert Gibson on thu 16 feb 06


I can't post the recipe but I can tell you where to find it. It's in the
book "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes". You can go to the Frog Pond Pottery website
to find out more information.

Bert Gibson

----- Original Message -----
From: "candy murguia"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: Cone 6 breaking glazes


> Can you post the recipe for waterfall? Its beautiful.
>
> Candy
>
>
> >From: Bert Gibson
> >Reply-To: Clayart
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> >Subject: Re: Cone 6 breaking glazes
> >Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 17:00:40 -0800
> >
> >Here is a link to one of my webpages with the Waterfall on a textured
pot:
> >
>
>http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2584
149.html
> >
> >Here is a link to a flat test tile with waterfall on it:
> >
>
>http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2587
036.html
> >
> >You might check out the rest of the site for glaze combinations and
> >examples
> >from MC6G. Hope it's helpful.
> >
> >Bert Gibson
> >http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Tue, Feb 14, 2006 at 08:56:19PM -0500, Ed Bull wrote:
> > > > Anyone else got good ones? This is a very useful topic.
> >
> > > I generally agree when you mentioned that waterfall isn't a good
> > > choice when you're interested in breaking, but texture does affect
> > > that glaze, and IMO in a magical way.
> > >
> > > Mark.
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> >melpots@pclink.com.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
> http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

John Britt on thu 16 feb 06


Candy,

I have all the MC6G glazes and would be happy to send you the recipe, if
no one else has. Just let me know.

President of the Glaze Free Trade Society

John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com

Ed Bull on tue 28 feb 06


Kat,

Snail's slip idea, before either water washing (etching) or later before
waxing is a good thing to try out. We have some water washers here who
etch through different layers of colored slips, engobes, and underglazes.
These pieces look very nice.

Somewhere later in one of the deviations from your original post a potter
mentioned that Waterfall Brown is a good breaker. I have to reverse
myself and agree. I've had it come out red on the break, and all the
wonderful colors like the picture on the cover of the book. (The red
shows up in direct sunlight and is spectacular.) So it is a good breaker
but is probably too runny if your etching is delicate, as you stated.

The problem seems to be that most of the good breaking glazes also move,
that's why they break off a rim, edge, or carved detail. Because they
follow gravity down, particularly on a vertical surface like the side of a
vase, they often look good at the top, but pool up or flow over and
obscure the lower edge of the detail. So... it's tricky.

BTW, how did you modify raspberry to a wine color? That sounds great.
Do you have any digital pix?

We've also gotten some fantastic results overlapping our studio antique
white glaze over both raspberry and midnight blue. Try it out. If you
need the antique white recipe I can send it, or try your white. The MC6
recipes you've got and I wouldn't give em out. I respect John and Ron a
lot.

I run a studio with about 100 potters and it has a supporting retail
store. We sell the book and don't get undercut by internet prices because
John and Ron only sell to ceramics supply stores, which is beneficial to
everyone. If the store didn't exist, we couldn't just walk in and get
some more clay or tools. If the potters didn't exist, there'd be no store.

I intend to have digital pictures up on our web site within a month or so
and hope to add to it, with interesting combinations and cautions about
which to overlap and all that. We're Creative Clay Studios in VA.

Feel free to email me at any time. Let me know how you're doing.
Cheers,
Ed Bull

Ron Roy on thu 2 mar 06


Hi Ed,

I just had to add a bit to this - John found the biggist factor in getting
glazes to break on raised design is the slow cooling.

You would not have though they were the same glaze when they were cooled
normally in an electric kiln and when the cooling was retarded.

RR


>The problem seems to be that most of the good breaking glazes also move,
>that's why they break off a rim, edge, or carved detail. Because they
>follow gravity down, particularly on a vertical surface like the side of a
>vase, they often look good at the top, but pool up or flow over and
>obscure the lower edge of the detail. So... it's tricky.
>Ed Bull

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513