John Rodgers on sun 29 jan 06
Russel,
I can't answer your questions, but I will say this ..... I use Duncans
wax resist. I used many different ones and I find this one to be the
best for me. It can be diluted with water, and when brushed it goes on
very smooth, without build up.It is green in color, so makes a good
contrast with the clay if you are doing something special. The problem
is, none of the Duncan dealers in my area will sell it in any quantities
other that the small two ounce bottles. They tell me Duncan will not
package it any other way. I don't know if that is true or not. But two
oz bottles are a PITA! I really like the stuff, and I bite the bullet
and go ahead and use it because it works so well. But it sure would be
nice if someone came up with a good recipe for a very smooth, home made
resist!!
BTW, some wax resists I have used had an ammonia smell. The Duncan stuff
does not. There is not a clue as to what it's made of.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Russel Fouts wrote:
> Anybody have any ideas about how this might be done? I remember Peter
> Beard hints at it in his book on resist techniques but there isn't
> much data there.
>
> I've found a receipe for "Cera Colla" using water, ammonia and wax
> that sounds like it might work. It's really a kind of wax paint.
>
> Basically, melt some bee's wax in a double boiler, heat the same
> quantity of a 1:1 mix the water and ammonia to the same temperature
> and stir the water/ammonia mix into the bee's wax. It should start
> foaming a lot (they say about 10 time) so you have to make sure that
> you're using a much bigger pan than you think you will need. Remove
> it from the heat and keep stirring until it's cool.
>
> It ends up the consistency of a stiffish whipped cream. This, they
> say is a good consistency for storage and will keep for a long time.
> To use, you just thin it with water.
>
>
> You can also adjust the mixture by adding more or less of the
> water/ammonia mix at the early stage.
>
> Does anybody think this will work? Think it would dry hard enough to
> resist glaze? How about with paraffin or candle wax rather than bee's
> wax? (I know, I know. I'll try it as soon as I get a chance ;-)
>
> Another way that sounds likely but I can't find much info on it is
> based on the idea that vegetable waxes emulsify easier in water than
> animal waxes and they suggest Carnuba or Candellila(sp) wax.
>
> Snail or Vince must know something about this? ;-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Russel
>
>
>
>
> Russel Fouts
> Mes Potes & Mes Pots
> Brussels, Belgium
> Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
> Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
>
> Http://www.mypots.com
> Home of "The Potters Portal"
> Over 3000 Pottery Related Links!
> Updated frequently
>
> My work can also be seen on:
> The World Crafts Council Belgium Site http://wcc-bf.org:
> Members English Pages: http://wcc-bf.org/artistes/ukrussel_fouts.htm
> EasyCraft: http://www.easycraft.org
>
> "We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home."
> -- Edward R. Murrow, American journalist, 1908-1965
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.23/243 - Release Date:
> 27/01/2006
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Bob Santerre on sun 29 jan 06
I think Duncan products are made by AMACO. You can by AMACO's wax
resist in large (I think 12 oz) bottles (they might even supply larger
quantities if you ask). My guess is it's the same as Duncan wax resist,
just packaged and sold under the Duncan name, who's primary market is
the "paint your own pot" slip cast mold shops ... hence the small packaging.
Bob
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
John Rodgers wrote:
> Russel,
>
> I can't answer your questions, but I will say this ..... I use Duncans
> wax resist. I used many different ones and I find this one to be the
> best for me. It can be diluted with water, and when brushed it goes on
> very smooth, without build up.It is green in color, so makes a good
> contrast with the clay if you are doing something special. The problem
> is, none of the Duncan dealers in my area will sell it in any quantities
> other that the small two ounce bottles. They tell me Duncan will not
> package it any other way. I don't know if that is true or not. But two
> oz bottles are a PITA! I really like the stuff, and I bite the bullet
> and go ahead and use it because it works so well. But it sure would be
> nice if someone came up with a good recipe for a very smooth, home made
> resist!!
>
> BTW, some wax resists I have used had an ammonia smell. The Duncan stuff
> does not. There is not a clue as to what it's made of.
>
> Regards,
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
Stephen Mills on sun 29 jan 06
If all else fails, try this. Robert Fournier taught me this mixture;
equal parts of light machine oil (we used to call it bicycle oil) and
candle wax. once warmed up (notice the word *warmed*) it can be kept
fluid by sitting the container in a bath of hot water. It brushes onto
work beautifully, fine lines are a wiz, doesn't fry your brushes,
doesn't give off horrid fumes, and won't burn you if you get it on your
hands. I prefer it to wax emulsion by a mile.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Russel Fouts writes
>Anybody have any ideas about how this might be done? I remember Peter
>Beard hints at it in his book on resist techniques but there isn't
>much data there.
>
>I've found a receipe for "Cera Colla" using water, ammonia and wax
>that sounds like it might work. It's really a kind of wax paint.
>
>Basically, melt some bee's wax in a double boiler, heat the same
>quantity of a 1:1 mix the water and ammonia to the same temperature
>and stir the water/ammonia mix into the bee's wax. It should start
>foaming a lot (they say about 10 time) so you have to make sure that
>you're using a much bigger pan than you think you will need. Remove
>it from the heat and keep stirring until it's cool.
>
>It ends up the consistency of a stiffish whipped cream. This, they
>say is a good consistency for storage and will keep for a long time.
>To use, you just thin it with water.
>
>
>You can also adjust the mixture by adding more or less of the
>water/ammonia mix at the early stage.
>
>Does anybody think this will work? Think it would dry hard enough to
>resist glaze? How about with paraffin or candle wax rather than bee's
>wax? (I know, I know. I'll try it as soon as I get a chance ;-)
>
>Another way that sounds likely but I can't find much info on it is
>based on the idea that vegetable waxes emulsify easier in water than
>animal waxes and they suggest Carnuba or Candellila(sp) wax.
>
>Snail or Vince must know something about this? ;-)
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Russel
>
>
>
>
> Russel Fouts
> Mes Potes & Mes Pots
> Brussels, Belgium
> Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
> Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
>
> Http://www.mypots.com
> Home of "The Potters Portal"
> Over 3000 Pottery Related Links!
> Updated frequently
>
> My work can also be seen on:
> The World Crafts Council Belgium Site http://wcc-bf.org:
> Members English Pages: http://wcc-bf.org/artistes/ukrussel_fouts.htm
> EasyCraft: http://www.easycraft.org
>
>"We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home."
>-- Edward R. Murrow, American journalist, 1908-1965
>
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.23/243 - Release Date: 27/01/20=
>06
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Russel Fouts on sun 29 jan 06
Anybody have any ideas about how this might be done? I remember Peter
Beard hints at it in his book on resist techniques but there isn't
much data there.
I've found a receipe for "Cera Colla" using water, ammonia and wax
that sounds like it might work. It's really a kind of wax paint.
Basically, melt some bee's wax in a double boiler, heat the same
quantity of a 1:1 mix the water and ammonia to the same temperature
and stir the water/ammonia mix into the bee's wax. It should start
foaming a lot (they say about 10 time) so you have to make sure that
you're using a much bigger pan than you think you will need. Remove
it from the heat and keep stirring until it's cool.
It ends up the consistency of a stiffish whipped cream. This, they
say is a good consistency for storage and will keep for a long time.
To use, you just thin it with water.
You can also adjust the mixture by adding more or less of the
water/ammonia mix at the early stage.
Does anybody think this will work? Think it would dry hard enough to
resist glaze? How about with paraffin or candle wax rather than bee's
wax? (I know, I know. I'll try it as soon as I get a chance ;-)
Another way that sounds likely but I can't find much info on it is
based on the idea that vegetable waxes emulsify easier in water than
animal waxes and they suggest Carnuba or Candellila(sp) wax.
Snail or Vince must know something about this? ;-)
Thanks in advance.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
Home of "The Potters Portal"
Over 3000 Pottery Related Links!
Updated frequently
My work can also be seen on:
The World Crafts Council Belgium Site http://wcc-bf.org:
Members English Pages: http://wcc-bf.org/artistes/ukrussel_fouts.htm
EasyCraft: http://www.easycraft.org
"We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home."
-- Edward R. Murrow, American journalist, 1908-1965
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.23/243 - Release Date: 27/01/2006
Donna Kat on mon 30 jan 06
Where are you at? I know that this place sells gallon containers that I
think cost approximately $20 (at least that is my memory of it).
http://www.7ceramic.com/chemicals.html
boris vitlin on mon 30 jan 06
My mixture:cut candle on small particles and add Paint Thinner,then warm
contauner with this
mixture in a bath with boiling water till it become smooth.Brushes should be
cleaned in
Paint Thinner.
Boris Vitlin
>From: Stephen Mills
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Making your own wax emulsion
>Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 21:56:22 +0000
>
>If all else fails, try this. Robert Fournier taught me this mixture;
>equal parts of light machine oil (we used to call it bicycle oil) and
>candle wax. once warmed up (notice the word *warmed*) it can be kept
>fluid by sitting the container in a bath of hot water. It brushes onto
>work beautifully, fine lines are a wiz, doesn't fry your brushes,
>doesn't give off horrid fumes, and won't burn you if you get it on your
>hands. I prefer it to wax emulsion by a mile.
>
>Steve
>Bath
>UK
>
>
>In message , Russel Fouts writes
> >Anybody have any ideas about how this might be done? I remember Peter
> >Beard hints at it in his book on resist techniques but there isn't
> >much data there.
> >
> >I've found a receipe for "Cera Colla" using water, ammonia and wax
> >that sounds like it might work. It's really a kind of wax paint.
> >
> >Basically, melt some bee's wax in a double boiler, heat the same
> >quantity of a 1:1 mix the water and ammonia to the same temperature
> >and stir the water/ammonia mix into the bee's wax. It should start
> >foaming a lot (they say about 10 time) so you have to make sure that
> >you're using a much bigger pan than you think you will need. Remove
> >it from the heat and keep stirring until it's cool.
> >
> >It ends up the consistency of a stiffish whipped cream. This, they
> >say is a good consistency for storage and will keep for a long time.
> >To use, you just thin it with water.
> >
> >
> >You can also adjust the mixture by adding more or less of the
> >water/ammonia mix at the early stage.
> >
> >Does anybody think this will work? Think it would dry hard enough to
> >resist glaze? How about with paraffin or candle wax rather than bee's
> >wax? (I know, I know. I'll try it as soon as I get a chance ;-)
> >
> >Another way that sounds likely but I can't find much info on it is
> >based on the idea that vegetable waxes emulsify easier in water than
> >animal waxes and they suggest Carnuba or Candellila(sp) wax.
> >
> >Snail or Vince must know something about this? ;-)
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Russel
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Russel Fouts
> > Mes Potes & Mes Pots
> > Brussels, Belgium
> > Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
> > Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
> >
> > Http://www.mypots.com
> > Home of "The Potters Portal"
> > Over 3000 Pottery Related Links!
> > Updated frequently
> >
> > My work can also be seen on:
> > The World Crafts Council Belgium Site http://wcc-bf.org:
> > Members English Pages: http://wcc-bf.org/artistes/ukrussel_fouts.htm
> > EasyCraft: http://www.easycraft.org
> >
> >"We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home."
> >-- Edward R. Murrow, American journalist, 1908-1965
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >No virus found in this outgoing message.
> >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> >Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.23/243 - Release Date:
>27/01/20=
> >06
>
>--
>Steve Mills
>Bath
>UK
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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