Ken & Mely Yancey on sat 14 jan 06
I don't quite understand the requirements for some pottery
equipment that is specified for either 230 Volts or 220
volts. Is it simply a matter of changing the breaker? or
does it require an electrition to run a dedicated line?
For example, the Grizzly air compressor that was recommended
by Vince Pitelka, is specified at 220 volts. What would the
wiring requirement be? Also the Peter Pugger VPM-30 is
specified at either 120 or 240 Volts. What are the
electrical requirements for that?
I have changed many a circuit breaker in my days, but any
further than that, I would rather hire an electrition. All
advise and suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
Ken
Michael Wendt on sat 14 jan 06
Ken,
Go to your local electrical supplier and get a copy of "Richter's Wiring
Simplified".
It explains how to wire in all the commonly encountered circuits to the
current electrical code. Safety is the main concern and if you follow the
instructions accurately, you can count on a safe installation that will pass
the electrical inspection the first time.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
USA
wendtpot@lewiston.com
www.wendtpottery.com
Ken wrote:
For example, the Grizzly air compressor that was recommended
by Vince Pitelka, is specified at 220 volts. What would the
wiring requirement be? Also the Peter Pugger VPM-30 is
specified at either 120 or 240 Volts. What are the
electrical requirements for that?
I have changed many a circuit breaker in my days, but any
further than that, I would rather hire an electrician. All
advise and suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
Ken
Carl Finch on sat 14 jan 06
At 07:35 AM 1/14/2006, Ken & Mely Yancey wrote:
>I don't quite understand the requirements for some pottery
>equipment that is specified for either 230 Volts or 220
>volts. Is it simply a matter of changing the breaker? or
>does it require an electrition to run a dedicated line?
>
>For example, the Grizzly air compressor that was recommended
>by Vince Pitelka, is specified at 220 volts. What would the
>wiring requirement be? Also the Peter Pugger VPM-30 is
>specified at either 120 or 240 Volts. What are the
>electrical requirements for that?
>
>I have changed many a circuit breaker in my days, but any
>further than that, I would rather hire an electrition.
If by "changed many a circuit breaker" you mean replaced due to failure of
the breaker--well, OK. But if you mean changed to a different current
carrying value (i.e., higher), then the answer for you is easy--hire an
electrician, because you are heading for disaster! That is, a fire!!!
Circuit breakers are current-limiting devices. They have nothing to do
with voltage, as you seem to suggest. If you look closely at one of the
household variety you'll see that it is rated for X number of amperes
(current) at either 120 or 240 volts.
Electrical equipment that is sold as suitable for either 120 or 240 volts
requires a very simple rewiring (usually illustrated by a diagram on a
small plate that covers the connections that need to be switched).
It's not clear to me if those 220/230/240 volt references of yours are a
source of confusion to you. If so, they are just different ways of
referring to the same thing--same for when one sees equipment sold for
110/115/120 volts. There seems to be no real standard for describing the
two main AC voltages supplied in the US. Your 'standard' household voltage
is likely to measure anywhere from 110v to 120v--hopefully towards the high
end!
I didn't see your discussion with Vince about compressors, but if you do
not have 240 volts available where you intend to use the compressor, that
would likely be an expensive installation. Of course compressors can be
attached via looong air hoses. Many compressors can be switched (the minor
rewiring I referred to above) between 120 and 240 volts. But they will run
better on 240v.
I would suggest you drop about $14 at Lowe's or Home Depot and buy Sunset
Book's "Complete Home Wiring" for a beautifully illustrated and clearly
written explanation of electricity and safe wiring (ISBN 0-376-01594-2).
--Carl
in Medford, Oregon
Vince Pitelka on sat 14 jan 06
>I don't quite understand the requirements for some pottery
> equipment that is specified for either 230 Volts or 220
> volts. Is it simply a matter of changing the breaker? or
> does it require an electrition to run a dedicated line?
> For example, the Grizzly air compressor that was recommended
> by Vince Pitelka, is specified at 220 volts. What would the
> wiring requirement be? Also the Peter Pugger VPM-30 is
> specified at either 120 or 240 Volts. What are the
> electrical requirements for that?
Ken -
Standard single-phase 60-cycle alternating current supplied by the power
companies in the United States is either 110V or 220V. I do not know why
some pieces of equipment say 240V, but they run on 220V. There are only the
two choices - 110V and 220V. Coming from the power pole on the street, you
have two 110V lines and a neutral or ground. If a circuit taps into one
110V line and a neutral, it gives 110V at the outlet. If a circuit taps
into both 110V lines, it gives 220V. Needless to say, there are specific
outlet/plug formats for each voltage and amperage rating so that they are
not interchangeable - you can't plug a 110V appliance into a 220V plug, or
you cannot plug a high-amperage 220V appliance into a lower amperage 220V
plug. For example, a standard clothes dryer outlet/plug is 30-amp, and will
thus run a piece of 220V equipment with a maximum draw of 30 amps. For the
standard toploader 220V electric kiln, the outlet/plug is generally a
50-amp, and if you look at the plug, you will see that it is distinctly
different from the 30-amp clothes-dryer style plug, and thus the two are not
interchangeable.
I think there is a good chance that the compressor I mentioned that is
available from Grizzly Industrial (http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/H4519)
could be rewired to run on 110V. That's normal for a small portable
compressor like that, but I'd call them to make sure. It looks like a great
little compressor for $300 including shipping.
Hope this helps -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Maurice Weitman on sat 14 jan 06
At 10:35 AM -0500 on 1/14/06, Ken Yancey wrote:
>[...] I have changed many a circuit breaker in my days, but
>any further than that, I would rather hire an electrition. All
>advise and suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
Ken, with all due respect, changing a circuit breaker (aside from
replacing a defective one) is nearly never a good idea.
The breakers need to be matched to the wiring, outlets, and/or
equipment, or you lose your protection, and maybe your building.
And again with all due respect, if you don't understand how 220 v.
equipment needs to be wired, you really should use an electrician.
Michael's book suggestion may be very appropriate; I don't know how
handy or skilled you are.
It's not rocket science, but the risks are too great to wing it
unless you understand what you're doing.
Regards,
Maurice
Ken & Mely Yancey on tue 17 jan 06
I would like to thank everyone on and of list who replied to
my question regarding my confusion over the wiring for 120
or 240 volt machines. It really helps to know that 110, 115,
and 120 volts are the same thing.
After reading some of the suggested reference from clayart
members, I realize my sub panel in my studio is maximized. I
would probably need an expensive upgrade to accomodate more
load. Oh well, maybe someday. Again, thatnk you all.
Ken
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