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cone 6, 10, 04 what?

updated tue 13 dec 05


mel jacobson on sun 11 dec 05

it does not matter a bit.

what does matter, is that a person find a temperature
that is right and works for you.

cone six is on the march and it is time for it.
both oxidation and reduction.

if you are now firing cone 6 ox in an electric kiln
it would be prudent if you want a gas kiln to keep
your glazes and clay body and see how reduction
works. modify, add and subtract to find a perfect set of glazes.

it is all based on the research you intend to do. the pots
you intend to make.

there is no longer a rainbow at the end of your pottery if
you fire to cone 10. that macho b.s. is dead as a door nail.
folks have to give it up.

there are cone 6 electric pots that are being made that
put to shame a great many old fuddies that think that
they have all the answers about clay, cone 10 reduction.

i have several close friends that have converted to cone 6
reduction...diana's work is going to add another layer to that study.
dannon is doing some marvelous work with layering cone 6 electric
fired glazes. amazing stuff.

gas, electric, wood, raku, majolica, earthenware.
they are all clay, water and fire.
there is no best. just a great many ways to work in clay.
find one, work it hard, learn your lessons, make it work for you.
there is no easy way...only hard work, mastery of skill and
climbing to the fourth floor. then start for five. the staircase is
clearly marked 5

from mel/

Paul Lewing on mon 12 dec 05

on 12/11/05 6:33 PM, mel jacobson at wrote:

> what does matter, is that a person find a temperature
> that is right and works for you.

True. And let's not forget the other temperature that many ceramic artists
are working at: cone 016- china paint. They jus tend not to be on this
Paul Lewing, Seattle