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help with blue or green underglaze

updated sat 29 oct 05

 

Kathy on wed 26 oct 05


I'm new so this may sound simple to most of you but here goes: I would like
to try to make some gallon sized pots like the ones you see with a family
name written on a curve over a picture of a house or other artwork and then
the city written under it at the bottom -- the ones that you normally see
salt glazed except I'm not going to salt glaze. Sometimes the words are
imprinted with a stamp and then stained and wiped off so it can be seen --
but I need to know how to make the green or blue brushed-on art work. Is it
just a simple underglaze and then a clear glaze over it? Do you brush it on
a bisqued pot? I don't know and would sure appreciate your help. Thanks!

Mayssan Shora Farra on fri 28 oct 05


On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 22:46:34 -0400, Kathy wrote:

>I'm new so this may sound simple to most of you but here goes: Is it
>just a simple underglaze and then a clear glaze over it? Do you brush it
on
>a bisqued pot?

Hello Kathy:

I do not know the pots you are refering to, but for (painting) on pots
there are many methods my favorite is on bisque with stains, Mason,
because of their predictabilty. under clear( you need to test to make sure
the clear glaze does not move and take the painting down with gravity).

I use the stain mixed with frit 3124, a dab of clear base glaze for
brushability and raw strength, and water to taste:). I keep it pretty thin
since I like using it like water colors.

If the painting is more involved I usually use on a pot already glazed
(but not fired) in white (again it is important that it is a glaze that
does not move in the firing) and to aid in brushability over the chalky
surface add a dab of liquid laundry starch.

I hope this helps you a little on your journy to find what works for you.

Mayssan
http://www.clayvillepottery.com

Joan Conklin on fri 28 oct 05


Hello Kathy,
I was taught by D. Handcock to use spray starch to stabilize glaze if I
intended to paint over the top.(Just spray the whole piece and let it
dry...before proceeding.) I have also used this technique to spray on a
glazed pot when I needed to reglaze or overglaze a pot that had been fired
once. Hope this helps. Joan


>From: Mayssan Shora Farra
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: help with blue or green underglaze
>Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 08:11:04 -0400
>
>On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 22:46:34 -0400, Kathy wrote:
>
> >I'm new so this may sound simple to most of you but here goes: Is it
> >just a simple underglaze and then a clear glaze over it? Do you brush it
>on
> >a bisqued pot?
>
>Hello Kathy:
>
>I do not know the pots you are refering to, but for (painting) on pots
>there are many methods my favorite is on bisque with stains, Mason,
>because of their predictabilty. under clear( you need to test to make sure
>the clear glaze does not move and take the painting down with gravity).
>
>I use the stain mixed with frit 3124, a dab of clear base glaze for
>brushability and raw strength, and water to taste:). I keep it pretty thin
>since I like using it like water colors.
>
>If the painting is more involved I usually use on a pot already glazed
>(but not fired) in white (again it is important that it is a glaze that
>does not move in the firing) and to aid in brushability over the chalky
>surface add a dab of liquid laundry starch.
>
>I hope this helps you a little on your journy to find what works for you.
>
>Mayssan
>http://www.clayvillepottery.com
>
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