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throwing on the korean kickwheel

updated tue 5 jul 05

 

Lee Love on mon 4 jul 05


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John Baymore wrote:

>They do create good gesture in the pieces. Oh ...and that are great
>for "coil and throw" .
>
>

I turned some tsubo on the keiyaki wheel today. I usually do coil and
throw, making the base in the shape of a bowl and then adding coils, but
I just wanted to double check my experience against the theoretical
understanding folks have been sharing..

Just like with centering a hump on the korean wheel: pulling up the form
for a larger pot is not done with any appreciable inertia or momentum
from the wheel. The wheel stops as soon as your leg stops. You really
aren't kicking, but it is more like treading the foot plate. You pull
with your bare foot and the speed of the wheel slows noticeably while
you are lifting it to pull again. The small diameter at the bottom like
this makes sense because it does not take as long to move your foot back
to the start.

I also made tsubo different ways, including what I was taught back home
but also a korean method, where you cone up the clay to the height of
the intended jar. You then run a small diameter throwing stick down the
center of the cone (a dowel will work), angling the hand end of the
stick toward you, to make a hole that is shaped like an upside down cone
into the cone of clay. After that, you can open the cone up some more
and then put your hand into the hole and balloon the form out from the
inside. What is nice about this method, is that you end up having plenty
of clay at the top of the pot to make a strong lip. It also works well
with rocky shigaraki clay. It lends itself to soft clay too.

--
Lee Love
in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
http://hankos.blogspot.com/ Visual Bookmarks
http://ikiru.blogspot.com/ Zen and Craft

"This thing of darkness I Acknowledge mine."

-- Prospero The Tempest
Shakespeare





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