Hank Murrow on thu 9 jun 05
On Jun 9, 2005, at 6:57 AM, Alyssa Ettinger wrote:
> i need help. i have a logo i want to fire onto the bottom of my pots,
> have been on a futile hunt for a company that will make decals that
> fire to cone 6. i hate to fire my work twice, since i'm in a studio
> i'm paying for each kiln fire.
> everything i've found thus far burns out at 1400F; i need 2200. ideas?
I bought some decal paper from a silkscreen house and using clear
silkscreen lacquer as a base, mixed in cobalt and iron and copper in
varying amounts to give me a 'palette' and screened my own decals to
apply to previously fired work and then re-fired the pieces. Worked a
treat, and beautiful photo images were the result. Did this while at
Anderson Ranch in the early 70s.
Alyssa Ettinger on thu 9 jun 05
i need help. i have a logo i want to fire onto the bottom of my pots, but
have been on a futile hunt for a company that will make decals that will
fire to cone 6. i hate to fire my work twice, since i'm in a studio where
i'm paying for each kiln fire.
everything i've found thus far burns out at 1400F; i need 2200. ideas?
Michael Wendt on fri 10 jun 05
Just because the decal is only rated to 018 doesn't meat the pigments
disappear when they are fired hotter. We have used Art Decal from Long Beach
CA for years and their cobalt blue based decals fire to cone 10 without loss
of color on the bottom of our pots.
I mount them on the greenware and fore it to 09 bisque.
It resists glaze so it shows through.
Run a test palette. See what works. Share that knowledge.
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
Greg Marshall on fri 10 jun 05
You might experiment with different colors of decals if you can get some
samples from your decal company. Many years ago I had some mugs with a
blue decal on them left over from a special event. I tried refiring them
to cone 10 to burn the decals off but they didn't go away. I think some of
the decal colors can take the high heat.
Greg at the foot of Pikes Peak.
Alyssa Ettinger on mon 13 jun 05
Actually, i just fired one of my black decals to cone six and it lasted
beautifully and didn't burn out; good to know i won't have to fire
twice!!!!! plus, the decal people are also sending me samples that are
"inglaze" whatever that is. will let you know if they work. --alyssa
Paul Lewing on tue 14 jun 05
on 6/13/05 8:38 PM, Alyssa Ettinger at aaett@AOL.COM wrote:
> the decal people are also sending me samples that are
> "inglaze" whatever that is
There's a lot of confusion about what people mean by "inglaze", "onglaze',
What most people mean by them is that inglaze" decoration is applied over a
raw glaze, but the composition of the decal is such that the decoration is
fluxed enough to sink into the glaze. What we normally refer to as majolica
would be an inglaze decoration by this definition, although it's usually
applied with a brush rather than as a decal.
"Overglaze" is usually meant to denote decoration that is applied over an
already fired glaze, and then fired on, almost always to a temperature much
lower than the original glaze, like china paint or the way decals are
usually used. Some potters do use the term overglaze to refer to the
majolica technique, but nobody buy a potter would use the term that way;
decal makers, china painters, and dinnerware manufacturers would not.
Paul Lewing, Seattle