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kiln shed venting

updated fri 6 aug 04

 

Mr. and Mrs. Overall on tue 3 aug 04


I've read numerous posts about the hazards of installing a kiln (this one electric) into a wooden shed, but I've waited for years to get a kiln and it's not economically feasible for me to build a metal structure with cement foundation to house it close to the breaker box. The 10x12 wooden shed is already there next to the box. I just emptied it of everything except hand tools on pegboard. It will be placed about 24" from the wall, which means for this size shed will be pretty much in the enter. I'll put 4x16x16 bricks underneath the stand. My questions are this:

1. Would a power exhaust ventilator that humps 1600 cfm set at about 90 degrees to start mounted in wall studs up high behind the kiln along with a four-five foot square intake vent opposite wall (i.e. door wall) be enough to circulate the heat out of this confined space with door closed? There are no windows in this shed, but if needed can do. Just no eaves or awnings to keep out the rain. Manuafacturer just informed me yesterday to not let the circuit board get over 100 degrees. Yesterday, the heat index here in Houston's shade was 108.

2. What could I line the back wall with to reflect heat?

I'm really spooked about starting a fire after reading about kilns in wooden structures, especially in such a confined space as this. Talk about kiln dried wood. A real matchstick waiting to happen is what I'm not wanting.

On thinking what could I do that doesn't take a few pounds of flesh, my intuition mutters this may work. What do you experts think? The kiln is arriving Wednesday Aug. 4th a.m.



Kim Overall
Overall Studio
Houston Potters Guild Member
www.houstonpotters.com

dalecochoy on tue 3 aug 04


Kim,
I went round and round with this for two years when slowly installing a
12cu/ft gas kiln in a shed. About 6 people were REALLY helpful to me and we
talked back and forth to solve problems ( mostly firing probs) . I also got
lots of " I thinks" and "Better watch outs" which, quite a bit, slowed down
my installation. Now I could call them "urban legends" at this point! I
should have disregarded a bunch right off and I'd been firing a year
earlier! Now, when i need advice I seek only "experienced" advice! It saves
time/money/patience. :>)
Basically I installed in a 10X14 steel shed ( because it was lots cheaper ,
but a PIA to build :>), on a treated deck and set kiln on 2"X16"x16" cement
pation blocks. Vent system is a combo of local shop manufacture and selkirk
pipes/stack. Works great. Nice in winter, and a fan on the floor in front
of the sliding doors helps temp inside in summer . My gas kiln gets a lot
hotter around/under it than the electric in the garage, but just fine in
the shed. I'd sure think your shed and blockes would be fine, especially if
closest to wall is 24". I think my electric kiln is about that in garage and
that is certainly no problem.

I wonder about manufacturer saying circuit board should be under 100
degrees? my electric kiln circuit board contoller box on side of kiln sure
gets warmer than that I'd think. Near end of fire it's pretty toasty.
I'm going to send you some pics of my outside kiln shed for you to look at
in a seperate mail.

As for vent. Do you really need a powered vent? Probably not. Why fire with
doors closed. I open mine full in summer and about 1/2 in winter. It's nice
in there in winter. Plus, with a wooden shed you can easily install peak
vent or windows in the walls. If you desire a stack, I'd not think you need
a powered one? Check with your manufacturer about temp above kiln lid vent.
It is suprising how low the temp is at 2-3 feet above the kiln, even with
gas kiln venting.
Regards,
Dale

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. and Mrs. Overall" Subject: Kiln shed venting


> I've read numerous posts about the hazards of installing a kiln (this one
electric) into a wooden shed, but I've waited for years to get a kiln and
it's not economically feasible for me to build a metal structure with cement
foundation to house it close to the breaker box. The 10x12 wooden shed is
already there next to the box. I just emptied it of everything except hand
tools on pegboard. It will be placed about 24" from the wall, which means
for this size shed will be pretty much in the enter. I'll put 4x16x16
bricks underneath the stand. My questions are this:
>
> 1. Would a power exhaust ventilator that humps 1600 cfm set at about 90
degrees to start mounted in wall studs up high behind the kiln along with a
four-five foot square intake vent opposite wall (i.e. door wall) be enough
to circulate the heat out of this confined space with door closed? There
are no windows in this shed, but if needed can do. Just no eaves or awnings
to keep out the rain. Manuafacturer just informed me yesterday to not let
the circuit board get over 100 degrees. Yesterday, the heat index here in
Houston's shade was 108.
>
> 2. What could I line the back wall with to reflect heat?
>
> I'm really spooked about starting a fire after reading about kilns in
wooden structures, especially in such a confined space as this. Talk about
kiln dried wood. A real matchstick waiting to happen is what I'm not
wanting.
>
> On thinking what could I do that doesn't take a few pounds of flesh, my
intuition mutters this may work. What do you experts think? The kiln is
arriving Wednesday Aug. 4th a.m.
> Kim Overall
> Overall Studio
> Houston Potters Guild Member
> www.houstonpotters.com

william schran on tue 3 aug 04


Kim wrote:> Would a power exhaust ventilator that humps 1600 cfm set
at about 90 degrees to start mounted in wall studs up high behind the
kiln along with a four-five foot square intake vent opposite wall
(i.e. door wall) be enough to circulate the heat out of this confined
space with door closed?<
>What could I line the back wall with to reflect heat?<

Exhaust ventilator as you describe would work, but when you get up to
the temperatures you worry about (over 100=B0F), then just don't fire
during the day. Fire at night or early (very early) in the morning.
Even if you use a programmable controller, still use witness cones.

Have been firing in a non-conforming wooden shed at school for years,
but will be moving kilns to another building soon, order of fire
marshall. The current wooden shed, about 10' x 10' contains 3 kilns,
about 12" from the walls that are covered in fire resistant
sheetrock. You could line the walls in your shed with this material
or use cement board.

Bill

wayne on tue 3 aug 04


Kim:

Let's see:
a 10X12 shed, say 9 feet high...,carry the one...
comes out to about 1080 cubic feet.
Your fan is pumping out 1600 cfm,
so 1600 less 1080...
You'll be changing the air in that shed
more than once a minute.
Are you sure your kiln is up to the task
of heating with all that heat being sucked
out around it?

For a reflective surface, you can use a piece
of cement board mounted on wood blocks
or metal pipe bits about three inches out from
the wall(s), or simply a piece of sheet metal.
Anything you would use for a woodstove as a heat
shield will also work for an electric kiln.

If you are located in Houston, your shed wood is
_already _dried out. You shouldn't need to
worry about that; but the chance of fire, while remote, is
always there of course. Best reason to be there while firing,
and not rely on some piece of (questionable) circuitry.
Bring a book, a comfy chair, and have a sit.

Windows (or skylights) are nice. Help you see what
you're putting in and taking out , see the pyrometer,
not trip over something on the way and fall into the (hot)
kiln, etc. Unless you like paying for lighting.

Don't worry about the circuit board. 100 assumes
no air movement. You will have plenty.

Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. and Mrs. Overall"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 6:18 AM
Subject: Kiln shed venting


> I've read numerous posts about the hazards of installing a kiln
(this one electric) into a wooden shed, but I've waited for years to
get a kiln and it's not economically feasible for me to build a
metal structure with cement foundation to house it close to the
breaker box. The 10x12 wooden shed is already there next to the
box. I just emptied it of everything except hand tools on pegboard.
It will be placed about 24" from the wall, which means for this size
shed will be pretty much in the enter. I'll put 4x16x16 bricks
underneath the stand. My questions are this:
>
> 1. Would a power exhaust ventilator that humps 1600 cfm set at
about 90 degrees to start mounted in wall studs up high behind the
kiln along with a four-five foot square intake vent opposite wall
(i.e. door wall) be enough to circulate the heat out of this
confined space with door closed? There are no windows in this shed,
but if needed can do. Just no eaves or awnings to keep out the
rain. Manuafacturer just informed me yesterday to not let the
circuit board get over 100 degrees. Yesterday, the heat index here
in Houston's shade was 108.
>
> 2. What could I line the back wall with to reflect heat?
>
> I'm really spooked about starting a fire after reading about kilns
in wooden structures, especially in such a confined space as this.
Talk about kiln dried wood. A real matchstick waiting to happen is
what I'm not wanting.
>
> On thinking what could I do that doesn't take a few pounds of
flesh, my intuition mutters this may work. What do you experts
think? The kiln is arriving Wednesday Aug. 4th a.m.
>
>
>
> Kim Overall
> Overall Studio
> Houston Potters Guild Member
> www.houstonpotters.com
>
>
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David Hendley on tue 3 aug 04


Kim, I'm not as worried about an electric kiln in a wood shed
as much as a combusting kiln. As long as you stay around
whenever you fire (as well as the first few hours of cooling),
things should be fine.
Actually, my set-up is not that different, since my kiln is in
a 13'X13' bedroom of the old farmhouse, with wood walls
and wood floor.

If you fire in Houston in the summer it will be hot in the
shed. No matter what or when. Probably close to 100 degrees
in the room, away from the kiln.
I see no reason to install an "automatic" fan. When you turn on
the kiln you will be there, and you will turn on the exhaust
fan when appropriate.
If the exhaust fan is high on the all, make the inlet vent close
to the floor.
My "exhaust fan" is a 20" box fan in a window, with an inlet
window on another wall. I turn the fan on low when starting the
kiln, and switch it to high when the kiln is switched to high.
The fan stays on for 20 to 24 hours after the kiln turns off
and starts cooling.

The cheapest, easiest material for protecting the back wall
is roofing tin. Just screw or nail it to the wall, leaving a 6"
gap at the bottom, and at least 6" at the top.
The tin must be held an inch or two away from the wall.
The easiest thing to use for this is 2" kiln posts. Get long
screws that will go through the metal, then through the kiln
posts, and into the wall.

The cinder blocks will protect the floor.
If you don't want to raise the kiln up off the floor so high,
a good way to protect the floor is a kiln shelf (or 2 half-
rounds), held off the floor by more 2" kiln pots.

Is there plenty of height in the building - at least 8 feet?
If not, a roofing tin heat shield and air space might be
a good idea above the kiln.

David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com

----- Original Message -----
> I've read numerous posts about the hazards of installing a kiln (this one
electric) into a wooden shed, but I've waited for years to get a kiln and
it's not economically feasible for me to build a metal structure with cement
foundation to house it close to the breaker box. The 10x12 wooden shed is
already there next to the box. I just emptied it of everything except hand
tools on pegboard. It will be placed about 24" from the wall, which means
for this size shed will be pretty much in the enter. I'll put 4x16x16
bricks underneath the stand.

claybair on wed 4 aug 04


A word of caution:
A glass artist I know had their studio burn down last year.
The screws which anchored the per code material to the walls
transferred the heat to the wood and over time caused the wood
to dry, heat and eventually ignite.


Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com

-----Original Message-----
From: David Hendley


Kim, I'm not as worried about an electric kiln in a wood shed
as much as a combusting kiln. As long as you stay around
whenever you fire (as well as the first few hours of cooling),
things should be fine.
Actually, my set-up is not that different, since my kiln is in
a 13'X13' bedroom of the old farmhouse, with wood walls
and wood floor.



The cheapest, easiest material for protecting the back wall
is roofing tin. Just screw or nail it to the wall, leaving a 6"
gap at the bottom, and at least 6" at the top.
The tin must be held an inch or two away from the wall.
The easiest thing to use for this is 2" kiln posts. Get long
screws that will go through the metal, then through the kiln
posts, and into the wall.

The cinder blocks will protect the floor.
If you don't want to raise the kiln up off the floor so high,
a good way to protect the floor is a kiln shelf (or 2 half-
rounds), held off the floor by more 2" kiln pots.

Is there plenty of height in the building - at least 8 feet?
If not, a roofing tin heat shield and air space might be
a good idea above the kiln.

David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com

----- Original Message -----
> I've read numerous posts about the hazards of installing a kiln (this one
electric) into a wooden shed, but I've waited for years to get a kiln and
it's not economically feasible for me to build a metal structure with cement
foundation to house it close to the breaker box. The 10x12 wooden shed is
already there next to the box. I just emptied it of everything except hand
tools on pegboard. It will be placed about 24" from the wall, which means
for this size shed will be pretty much in the enter. I'll put 4x16x16
bricks underneath the stand.