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once firing glaze touch ups

updated fri 23 jul 04

 

Snail Scott on wed 21 jul 04


At 11:01 AM 7/21/04 -0700, you wrote:
>...once firing glazing techniques...The bowls dried a little quicker...now
the glaze is chipping off at the rim due to differing shrinkage/ drying
rates and our friend is en route home. Two questions: Any suggestions to
prevent this in raw glazing in the future?


It'll be tough to touch these up and still achieve
a smooth glaze coat unless it's a glaze that
levels itself really well during firing.

For next time, though, if they are overdry, lay a
thick damp rag (cotton knit is best) across the
tops then cover with plastic until they rehydrate.
If they are not too dry generally, but just on the
rims, the rag doesn't need to be so damp. Wrap the
work in plastic until the moisture equalizes
throughout the pieces. (The rags are still there
to prevent condensation from dripping on the tops.)

-Snail Scott

Ben on wed 21 jul 04


Friend from Australia stopped by on her way home and showed us some nice =
once firing glazing techniques. We were throwing some medium size bowls =
glazng on the wheel very exciting possibilities. However: The bowls =
dried a little quicker than she expected in our southern California =
environment perhaps too dry when we glazed them. So now the glaze is =
chipping off at the rim due to differing shrinkage/ drying rates and our =
friend is en route home. Two questions: Any suggestions to prevent =
this in raw glazing in the future? Any suggestions on touching up these =
rims? I'm tempted to just finger dab or brush a little like I would on =
bisque but??? Sometimes fixing one simple plumbing problem leads to =
working most of the night to get the water back on. Thanks in advance =
for any help.
Ben

Gary Navarre on thu 22 jul 04


Ben wrote on Wed, July 21, 2004 1:01 PM
Friend from Australia stopped by on her way home and showed us some nice
> once firing glazing techniques. We were throwing some medium size bowls
> glazng on the wheel very exciting possibilities. However: The bowls
> dried a little quicker than she expected in our southern California
> environment perhaps too dry when we glazed them. So now the glaze is
> chipping off at the rim due to differing shrinkage/ drying rates and our
> friend is en route home. Two questions: Any suggestions to prevent this
> in raw glazing in the future? Any suggestions on touching up these rims?
> I'm tempted to just finger dab or brush a little like I would on bisque
> but??? Sometimes fixing one simple plumbing problem leads to working most
> of the night to get the water back on. Thanks in advance for any help.
> Ben

Hay Ben,
When I glaze once fire I allow the pieces to go bone dry. The glaze has
about 20% ball clay with feldspar and ash. The pieces are dry so no more
shrinkage. Since the bowls are now dry dribbly/brush whatever glaze your
working with on the missing spots. In fact knock off any loose glaze and
touchup.
I do pour glaze but usually brush a few thiner layers letting them dry
between coats. With a bunch of pots to glaze by the time the last one
has a coat the first is ready for a second layer. Once you get the nack
it's quite simple. I don't bother with bisque firing. I have used twice
fire glazes like Mather Clear or Dunham Blue with no problem as long as
the glaze has enough clay. The best thing is try it and see what
happens.

Gary Navarre
Navarre Pottery
Norway, Michigan, USA, Earth

"Hold your horses, we won't know till we try it" Tom Chandler

Lee Love on thu 22 jul 04


Ben wrote:

> Two questions: Any suggestions to prevent this in raw glazing in the future?
>
This is something new to me too. Since Tony's visit and
"Matsuzaki inspired" experiments with Shino, I have been brushing
shinos on interiors of bowls before the are cut off the hump and also
right after trimming.

Try glazing at leather hard. I have been following
David's H's recommendation of adding 2% soda ash to leatherhard glazing
glazes. I have the best luck with glazes that are mostly clay.

> Any suggestions on touching up these rims? I'm tempted to just finger dab or brush a little like I would on bisque but??? Sometimes fixing one simple plumbing problem leads to working most of the night to get the water back on.
>
You can try misting the area and then dabbing a touch-up.
Something I have found that helps hold flaky glazes (some of my glazes
that are ladled poured on top of another glaze are like this) is to
use my resist to coat the surface. I did this on top of a lip I
touched up and it seemed to help hold the glaze on. I haven't fired
yet to know if it will last through the firing, but it has worked for me
in the past.

--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
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