Rob Van Rens on thu 10 jun 04
Bill is not a member of the list - in fact, he's had a computer for less
than a year. I've been forwarding him the various messages re: his show,
and he asked me to post this response.
Rob Van Rens
Frederick Clay Art Center
5400 Yukon Ct, Unit 500
Frederick, MD 21758
Here is Bill's post. his words are unedited, although I ahve removed excess
headers, text of original messages, etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Van Gilder"
To: "Rob Van Rens"
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:28 PM
Subject: RE: Fw: Bill van Gilder's Show!
> (Melissa...I speak to bill vG almost daily...my company supplies his
> Frederick Pottery School and his studio w/ materials + supplies...and
> because he's not a Clayart subscriber I passed along your Clayart
> comments, wondering if he wanted to reply. I got
> this response from him today..
> The reason I don't cover the pot's w/ plastic as they dry is: I need them
> to dry in a resonable time as I run a pro-
> duction shop here and , though I work in a rather large space, I really
> don't have the racking and storage space to stack pots and wait on
> them to dry slowly. I use clays, both commercial mixes and my own mixes,
> that WILL dry without cracking...as long as the pot's
> are uniformly and well made... solid handle attachment's, even
> cross-sections, assembled in a timely order,etc.. I use clays
> that will pass these test's...other-wise, I look for different commercial
> bodies or adjust the body recipies I'm mixing here
> in the studio. Plus...covering pots with plastic is a hassle. The
> plastic sticks to the wet clay, damaging the rim's...and you have store
> all that plastic sheeting somewhere! I'd rather not.
> About the kiln shelf at the top of a pack...never done it...probobly
> will! The way kiln's are built today, incoming
> cold air shouldn't be an issue, or problem. I suppose if your kiln has
> ALOT of wear + tear at the rim/brickwork this
> might be an issue. In that case I would line the top rim of the open kiln
> with very thin,narrow strip's of fiber...something to seal the
> rim-to-lid joint. Or maybe, if the kiln lid is crumbling a bit...pieces
> falling into + onto the pots below... a shelf could protect
> them somewhat. But if this was the case, repeatedly, I'd be looking for a
> new kiln, or at least a lid.
> As for sanding the rim's of pots...I avoid it like the plague. The dust is
> dangerous...the time it would take to sand a kiln load of
> pots would be prohibitive..and as the bisque stage of a pots' life is the
> least attractive and most boring (my opinion), the less time I have deal
> with bisqueware, the better! Again, I choose clay bodies that are
> enough to not require sanding...often finishing the wet rims of the
> pots with a strip of clay-bag plastic (or chamois - which I avoid, as
> get lost in the wheel-slip too easily) ...generally prep'ing
> the pots at the throwing and wet-finishing stages for glazing...without
> using sand paper. The clays I use do have some sand,
> or sometimes up to 5% fine grog, in the mix. Just enough aggregate to cut
> down on the shrinkage and stop warpage. Using the
> strip of plastic on the rims pushes the surface sand/grog back into the
> pot...so no sanding. Using thick, fat glazes helps, too.
> Hope these reasoning's make sense...and glad you like the DIY Pottery
> programs. Know that there was ALOT more clay
> info taped...some of which I was hoping to see on air...but they can only
> fit so much into a 20 min. broadcast! It's very much
> their call. I've now been asked for another list of pottery subject's
> ... aimed at the "new", part-time and student potter...their
> direction. We'll see what happens next.
> all the best,
> Bill vG.
> Bill Van Gilder