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test kilns/glaze testing

updated wed 25 feb 04

 

Gene and Dolita Dohrman on mon 23 feb 04


Hi John, Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I will heed your
advice. My husband pointed out the problem of not really getting the same
results in a small kiln that one would get in the larger kiln. As you said,
the heating and cooling rates will vary. The other thing I was looking at
was the ability to plug it into a 120 outlet. If I have to have another 220
put in, plus get a controller, and spend more on the kiln, it could start
pushing $1000.
My real quandary is how do I go about testing in a larger kiln? I plan on
purchasing a 7.0 cu.ft. L&L and will mix my own glazes. I guess I am
wondering how to fill the kiln with all test pieces if I am going to do
those small cylinders I see on many websites. It may take quite awhile.
One thought was to purchase a few gallon jars of commercial glazes with
which I am familiar and use those for the first couple of kiln loads with my
test cylinders intermingled. This is such an elementary problem, I know. I
just wonder how others starting out like this deal with the first couple of
glaze firings. Maybe I just need to make bigger test pieces!
Dolita-who ordered my first batch of clay last week and ordered the wheel
today. And it is not even my birthday!

dohrman@insightbb.com
Louisville, KY

----- Original Message -----
From: John Hesselberth
To:
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: Test Kilns


> Hi Dolita,
>
> Two things I would recommend. First, get a controller so you can match
> the heating/cooling rates to your big kiln. Otherwise you will not get
> results you can duplicate.
>
> Second and equally important, AVOID one with crimped connectors (the
> elements are joined to the wiring with crimped connectors). While there
> are special tools to help you make these connections (and I have one) I
> will contend anyone short of gorilla strength cannot do them well--and
> maybe not even then. Particularly on the specific kiln I have because
> you are working in cramped quarters and it is very awkward. I have had
> nothing but trouble with those joints burning out every few firings.
> And that is really irritating because it always seems to happen when
> you are at about 1500F. This may not happen with your first set of
> elements, but it will with any you replace.
>
> The particular kiln I have had this problem with is the Olympic Doll
> kiln. It is about 3 or 4 years old so they may have changed their
> design by now--I hope so. I became so frustrated with it I bought an
> L&L test kiln which uses screw post connectors. The L&L is a great test
> kiln and I would highly recommend it, although it was more expensive
> than the Olympic. You get what you pay for I guess.
>
> One of these days I will get into it and try to rebuild the Olympic to
> avoid this problem but that will not be an easy task the way everything
> is jammed into a tiny space.
>
> Regards,
>
> John
> On Monday, February 23, 2004, at 11:04 AM, Gene and Dolita Dohrman
> wrote:
>
> > I am thinking of purchasing a small test kiln and wonder what kind of
> > experience any of you have had with them. Right now I am looking at
> > the Olympic HB89. Any thoughts?
> > Thanks. Dolita
> >
> > dohrman@insightbb.com
> > Louisville, KY
> >
> > _______________________________________________________________________
> > _______
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> http://www.frogpondpottery.com
> http://www.masteringglazes.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

John Hesselberth on tue 24 feb 04


On Monday, February 23, 2004, at 03:55 PM, Gene and Dolita Dohrman
wrote:

> The other thing I was looking at
> was the ability to plug it into a 120 outlet. If I have to have
> another 220
> put in, plus get a controller, and spend more on the kiln, it could
> start
> pushing $1000.
> My real quandary is how do I go about testing in a larger kiln? I
> plan on
> purchasing a 7.0 cu.ft. L&L and will mix my own glazes. I guess I am
> wondering how to fill the kiln with all test pieces if I am going to do
> those small cylinders I see on many websites.

Hi Dolita,

Ahh, so many decisions to make. Isn't it fun AND frustrating? A couple
suggestions--I'm sure you will get lots of others. I lived for several
years with an 18 inch kiln instead of a 23". About 2.5 ft3 and it only
took a 30 amp circuit. If you are determined to go into production and
contribute to the family income, then 7 ft3 is appropriate. Or if you
are going to make pots that will not fit in a smaller kiln. But if this
is a part time endeavor which is more in the category of a hobby then
2.5 ft3 might even be better. I takes a long time to fill up a 7 ft3
kiln if you are only making a half a dozen pots a week. And it is
desirable to fire frequently while you are early in your potting career.

If you decide 7 is best for your needs, you might be able to get a
decent price on buying 2 L&Ls at the same time. And their test kiln
does run on 120 volts. You have to have a 20 amp circuit and either
dedicate it or be very good about not running other things on that
circuit while the kiln is running.

Regards,

John
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com

Mildred Herot on tue 24 feb 04


Hi: First of all I'm only a part time potter but, being 78, I guess that's
no t too bad. I have an L & L kiln and when I do a glaze firing, I fill the
corners spaces with small bowls that are "experiments". This way I can test
new glazes or combinations and still fire larger pots with what I know will
usually work....Mildred Herot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene and Dolita Dohrman"
To:
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: Test Kilns/Glaze testing


> Hi John, Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I will heed your
> advice. My husband pointed out the problem of not really getting the same
> results in a small kiln that one would get in the larger kiln. As you
said,
> the heating and cooling rates will vary. The other thing I was looking at
> was the ability to plug it into a 120 outlet. If I have to have another
220
> put in, plus get a controller, and spend more on the kiln, it could start
> pushing $1000.
> My real quandary is how do I go about testing in a larger kiln? I plan on
> purchasing a 7.0 cu.ft. L&L and will mix my own glazes. I guess I am
> wondering how to fill the kiln with all test pieces if I am going to do
> those small cylinders I see on many websites. It may take quite awhile.
> One thought was to purchase a few gallon jars of commercial glazes with
> which I am familiar and use those for the first couple of kiln loads with
my
> test cylinders intermingled. This is such an elementary problem, I know.
I
> just wonder how others starting out like this deal with the first couple
of
> glaze firings. Maybe I just need to make bigger test pieces!
> Dolita-who ordered my first batch of clay last week and ordered the wheel
> today. And it is not even my birthday!
>
> dohrman@insightbb.com
> Louisville, KY
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Hesselberth
> To:
> Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 2:31 PM
> Subject: Re: Test Kilns
>
>
> > Hi Dolita,
> >
> > Two things I would recommend. First, get a controller so you can match
> > the heating/cooling rates to your big kiln. Otherwise you will not get
> > results you can duplicate.
> >
> > Second and equally important, AVOID one with crimped connectors (the
> > elements are joined to the wiring with crimped connectors). While there
> > are special tools to help you make these connections (and I have one) I
> > will contend anyone short of gorilla strength cannot do them well--and
> > maybe not even then. Particularly on the specific kiln I have because
> > you are working in cramped quarters and it is very awkward. I have had
> > nothing but trouble with those joints burning out every few firings.
> > And that is really irritating because it always seems to happen when
> > you are at about 1500F. This may not happen with your first set of
> > elements, but it will with any you replace.
> >
> > The particular kiln I have had this problem with is the Olympic Doll
> > kiln. It is about 3 or 4 years old so they may have changed their
> > design by now--I hope so. I became so frustrated with it I bought an
> > L&L test kiln which uses screw post connectors. The L&L is a great test
> > kiln and I would highly recommend it, although it was more expensive
> > than the Olympic. You get what you pay for I guess.
> >
> > One of these days I will get into it and try to rebuild the Olympic to
> > avoid this problem but that will not be an easy task the way everything
> > is jammed into a tiny space.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > John
> > On Monday, February 23, 2004, at 11:04 AM, Gene and Dolita Dohrman
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I am thinking of purchasing a small test kiln and wonder what kind of
> > > experience any of you have had with them. Right now I am looking at
> > > the Olympic HB89. Any thoughts?
> > > Thanks. Dolita
> > >
> > > dohrman@insightbb.com
> > > Louisville, KY
> > >
> > >
_______________________________________________________________________
> > > _______
> > > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > >
> > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > > melpots@pclink.com.
> > >
> > >
> > http://www.frogpondpottery.com
> > http://www.masteringglazes.com
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Gene and Dolita Dohrman on tue 24 feb 04


I see your point about the smaller kiln if one is going to do this as a
hobby but as soon as the wheel gets here, I am definitely going to be making
more than a half dozen pots a week (remember the 20 pots an hour thread?).
We have put so much blood, sweat, and tears (no exaggeration) into building
this studio, not to mention money, that I am going to try to go full time.
I may not be able to hit 20 pots an hour but I saved all the advice and will
begin the journey. I have been throwing for about 9 years but only as a
hobby so this will be a whole new endeavor.
I think I will see if I can get a good price on two L&Ls. That may be just
the answer.
Thank you for your invaluable advice to this list. I have the Mastering ^6
book and will load the formulation program when I start mixing my glazes.
Looking forward to meeting you at NCECA.
Dolita

dohrman@insightbb.com
Louisville, KY

>
> Hi Dolita,
>
> Ahh, so many decisions to make. Isn't it fun AND frustrating? A couple
> suggestions--I'm sure you will get lots of others. I lived for several
> years with an 18 inch kiln instead of a 23". About 2.5 ft3 and it only
> took a 30 amp circuit. If you are determined to go into production and
> contribute to the family income, then 7 ft3 is appropriate. Or if you
> are going to make pots that will not fit in a smaller kiln. But if this
> is a part time endeavor which is more in the category of a hobby then
> 2.5 ft3 might even be better. I takes a long time to fill up a 7 ft3
> kiln if you are only making a half a dozen pots a week. And it is
> desirable to fire frequently while you are early in your potting career.
>
> If you decide 7 is best for your needs, you might be able to get a
> decent price on buying 2 L&Ls at the same time. And their test kiln
> does run on 120 volts. You have to have a 20 amp circuit and either
> dedicate it or be very good about not running other things on that
> circuit while the kiln is running.
>
> Regards,
>
> John
> http://www.frogpondpottery.com
> http://www.masteringglazes.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

ian on tue 24 feb 04


Just to give a different perspective on small, test kilns, I, too, found
that the test tiles did not reflect the final result of firing in my large
kiln. I concluded that the heating and cooling rates made the difference. I
built a kiln controller for less than $200 (instructions at
www.bartinst.com) and, after one firing, I believe the problem might be
solved. I can precisely reproduce the heating and cooling cycles of my
larger kiln.

Further, I have noticed that occasionally when I place pots with different
glazes next to each other in the big kiln, sometimes the fumes from one will
create a blush on the adjacent one. As I think about it, perhaps this is
more of an issue with the gas kiln.

Lee love on wed 25 feb 04


Related to worrying about filling up a kiln with tests: One thing
you might do for testing, is to put tests in your potter friend's
kiln. There is always room for test tiles in a firing and this is
good on many counts: you get to know other potters and you can share
the results as they come out of the kiln.

My only advice, is to include clay pads to put the test on, so if your
first test do any running, they won't run onto the kiln shelves.


--Lee in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.us "It seems to me what you
lose in mystery you gain in awe" -- Francis Crick