Susan Fox-Hirschmann on sun 18 jan 04
In a message dated 1/18/2004 12:54:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
chris@LIGHTONECANDLE.COM writes:
<<
On 18 Jan 2004 at 11:07, Randy McCall wrote:
> Chris Schafale sent me a base glaze that looks a lot like Floating Blue.
> Not sure who orginated the glaze. Fairly simple.
>
> FRIT 3124 50%
> Kaolin 25%
> Silica 25%
>
> Try variations of
> Cobalt and Rutile
>
> I used just 1.5% Cobalt and got a nice blue everytime.
>
> Nice smooth glaze
>
> Randy >>
Any suggestions on the rutile percentage addition?
Susan
Annandale, VA
Gaye Sekula on sun 18 jan 04
I am a big fan of Floating Blue, but the posts about it being temperamental
scare me away. Is there a more bulletproof glaze that looks like floating blue
that I could try? I fire to Cones 5 and 6.
Thanks, Gaye
Randy McCall on sun 18 jan 04
Chris Schafale sent me a base glaze that looks a lot like Floating Blue.
Not sure who orginated the glaze. Fairly simple.
FRIT 3124 50%
Kaolin 25%
Silica 25%
Try variations of
Cobalt and Rutile
I used just 1.5% Cobalt and got a nice blue everytime.
Nice smooth glaze
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gaye Sekula"
To:
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 7:10 AM
Subject: More reliable Floating Blue?
> I am a big fan of Floating Blue, but the posts about it being
> temperamental
> scare me away. Is there a more bulletproof glaze that looks like floating
> blue
> that I could try? I fire to Cones 5 and 6.
> Thanks, Gaye
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Kim Marie on sun 18 jan 04
In Ron & John's book, "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes", (I know the title should be
underlined but the darn Outlook button isn't working today!) I've found that
the Variegated Blue is like a Floating blue and is blue where thick and
breaks to brown where thin. I've also love the Clear Powder Blue because it
acts like a Floating blue but breaks green where thin instead of brown.
Kim
I am a big fan of Floating Blue, but the posts about it being temperamental
scare me away. Is there a more bulletproof glaze that looks like floating
blue
that I could try? I fire to Cones 5 and 6.
Thanks, Gaye
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.562 / Virus Database: 354 - Release Date: 1/16/04
John Rodgers on sun 18 jan 04
Gaye, I don't beleive ANY glaze is "bulletproof". There are simply to
many variables that can intervene anywhere along the way, from the
chemical composition of the components of the glaze to variations in the
clay body from one batch to the next to minor variations in temperature
and time when firing.
That said, my Floating Blue has been about as bullet proof as any glaze
I have used.
I consider that the only reason for that is that I have worked out an
exact procedure for firing that I use every time, without deviation.
When I finally run out of my current supply of chemicals, it may well be
that I will have a problem with how my Floating Blue comes out. But for
now, it's perfect every time. The key to any floating blue success is to
test, test. test. Test the glaze on various clay bodied, test the glaze
at various bisque temperatures, test the glaze at various glaze firing
temperatures, test the glaze at different ramping speeds, test the glaze
at different soaking periods.
Currently I use a very old Crusader kiln with no controls, only infinity
switches. After loading the kiln, I fire it over night on a setting of 3
on all switches. I do this with the plugs open, lid shut. Overnight the
temp will be 1500-1700 degrees F. At 8 am I put in the top plug only
and I begin ramping the temperature two points every hour until it is on
HI fire. I use free standing witness cones exclusively, and I have one
one Cone 5 placed where I can see it through the top peep hole. I watch
the Pyrometer closely, and after 1800 degrees, I routinely begin
checking that cone. I increase the frequency of checking the cone as
the kiln approaches temperature, and I always see the cone beginning to
bend. I keep checking every few moments and when the Cone 5 reaches
horizontal , I shut off the kiln. I put in the plugs and allow a slow
cool down ...... no fans nearby, just natural heat radiation until it is
cool.
I have had no failures with this method after I worked it out. But I
will tell you, that the first few loads were awful. Snot green, glaze
runs all on the shelves, what a mess. Now I never miss.
Floating Blue is a really nice glaze, but you gotta have a pat procedure!!!
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Gaye Sekula wrote:
>I am a big fan of Floating Blue, but the posts about it being temperamental
>scare me away. Is there a more bulletproof glaze that looks like floating blue
>that I could try? I fire to Cones 5 and 6.
>Thanks, Gaye
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
Earl Brunner on sun 18 jan 04
We've put up with the temperament of Floating Blue in the city studio
for years. But the last batch I made came out a nice smoky brown,
almost black. It still has that nice floating blue depth and is still
quite popular in it's new incarnation, however I'm getting a LOT of
complaints from people that want the blue back. They don't understand
enough about glaze variables to understand why it's gone in the first
place. I should just "make" it for them.....
I think the new batch of chemicals I just filled the bins with are the
problem, but I don't know which one (or possible combination of
chemicals) is the culprit.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Gaye Sekula
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 4:11 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: More reliable Floating Blue?
I am a big fan of Floating Blue, but the posts about it being
temperamental
scare me away. Is there a more bulletproof glaze that looks like
floating blue
that I could try? I fire to Cones 5 and 6.
Thanks, Gaye
Chris Schafale on sun 18 jan 04
Actually, I use Frit 3134, not 3124 for this glaze. The key to glazes that
"float" is to have plenty of boron. I always thought some rutile was
necessary too, but it sounds like Randy is having good luck with just cobalt.
I find that these glazes are strongly affected by firing schedules -- the longer
the firing schedule, the more opacity and the "thicker" the floating layer. I
found that, when I went to a slow-cool schedule, I had to reduce the rutile a
lot or else the glaze got fully opaque and lost the visual depth and texture
that the classic FB has.
Chris
On 18 Jan 2004 at 11:07, Randy McCall wrote:
> Chris Schafale sent me a base glaze that looks a lot like Floating Blue.
> Not sure who orginated the glaze. Fairly simple.
>
> FRIT 3124 50%
> Kaolin 25%
> Silica 25%
>
> Try variations of
> Cobalt and Rutile
>
> I used just 1.5% Cobalt and got a nice blue everytime.
>
> Nice smooth glaze
>
> Randy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gaye Sekula"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 7:10 AM
> Subject: More reliable Floating Blue?
>
>
> > I am a big fan of Floating Blue, but the posts about it being
> > temperamental
> > scare me away. Is there a more bulletproof glaze that looks like floating
> > blue
> > that I could try? I fire to Cones 5 and 6.
> > Thanks, Gaye
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina, USA
(south of Raleigh, NC)
www.lightonecandle.com
NEW email: chris at lightonecandle dot com
(insert the @ and . as appropriate)
| |
|
