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cracking tiles / moldy plaster

updated sun 30 nov 03

 

Dawn Christensen on sat 29 nov 03


Hello everyone
When working on my graduate degree I did a lot of raku and large tile
work. The advice from several seasoned clayart members got me through. I did
dry the tiles (15x15) on sheetrock with plastic bags around the edges to
retard the drying process. I flipped them religiously day and night. I also
allowed for breakage and made four more than I needed for the clay paintings. The
first series I fired flat on sand and I had hairline cracks. The rest I
fired vertically between sitters and my success rate was better. If I would do
them over I would use latex around the edges, sheetrock for drying, and fire
vertically. I am grateful for the advise I received at the time and I hope
hearing this from more than one clayart member helps you. I learned a lot doing
that series and they all sold.
In reference to the mold on the wedging table. I use bleach to retard
mold when necessary and have washed thick plaster slabs many times, leaving
time for them to dry and rotate as needed. I have immediate family members who
have allergies and mold growth can set off asthma attacks etc. Good luck,
Dawn (Menomonee Falls)