Gary Ferguson on mon 24 nov 03
Ellen:
Sometimes I use masking tape (or quilters tape) to mask off areas that I
want to keep free of glaze. Then after the glaze dries I remove the tape
and fire the piece.
Definitely no residue with this method.
Gary Ferguson
Raku Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687
Raku Gallery and Glaze Collection at: http://www.garyrferguson.com
Subscribe to Just Raku Newsletter at http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Logowear at: http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
----- Original Message -----
From: "ellen"
To:
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 3:32 PM
Subject: raku & wax or latex resist
> A question for the raku guru's........
>
> I want to keep the rich blacks on the unglazed areas and have found that
> wax resist actually penetrates the bisque. The areas where I used the wax
> do not come out rich black after reduction, they are more of a dark
> charcoal grey. We are firing to 1850 and getting great blacks except
> where the wax was and it is noticeable.
>
> Is anyone using a paintable resist, that will burn away 100% in the
> firing, and allow the blacks to be the same as the virgin bisqued area???
> I am going to try rubber cement....... Any other ideas???
>
> thanks
>
> ellen
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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melpots@pclink.com.
ellen on mon 24 nov 03
A question for the raku guru's........
I want to keep the rich blacks on the unglazed areas and have found that
wax resist actually penetrates the bisque. The areas where I used the wax
do not come out rich black after reduction, they are more of a dark
charcoal grey. We are firing to 1850 and getting great blacks except
where the wax was and it is noticeable.
Is anyone using a paintable resist, that will burn away 100% in the
firing, and allow the blacks to be the same as the virgin bisqued area???
I am going to try rubber cement....... Any other ideas???
thanks
ellen
Darnie Sizemore on tue 25 nov 03
You might want to try latex. Amaco sells a liquid latex that drys on pottery and can be removed if you wanted to. It might give off a rancid smell, but it is worth checking into.
Darnie
ellen wrote:
A question for the raku guru's........
I want to keep the rich blacks on the unglazed areas and have found that
wax resist actually penetrates the bisque. The areas where I used the wax
do not come out rich black after reduction, they are more of a dark
charcoal grey. We are firing to 1850 and getting great blacks except
where the wax was and it is noticeable.
Is anyone using a paintable resist, that will burn away 100% in the
firing, and allow the blacks to be the same as the virgin bisqued area???
I am going to try rubber cement....... Any other ideas???
thanks
ellen
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Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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Gary Ferguson on tue 25 nov 03
Charles:
How does this work differently that just glazing over glaze? Does the tape
keep the two glazes from interacting until later in the firing?
Gary Ferguson
Raku Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687
Raku Gallery and Glaze Collection at: http://www.garyrferguson.com
Subscribe to Just Raku Newsletter at http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Logowear at: http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Moore"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: raku & wax or latex resist
> I have even had success with Scotch tape (or some house brand) over raw
> glazes to separate one glaze from another on a piece.
> Charles
> Sacramento
>
John Britt on tue 25 nov 03
Ellen,
Remember that there are many types (brands) of wax. Forbes, Aftosa,
Mobilizer "A", etc. I would experiment with them all. There is also Latex
resist. (It is not the same as rubber cement) But you have to remove it
before firing.
Hope it helps,
John
Charles Moore on tue 25 nov 03
I have even had success with Scotch tape (or some house brand) over raw
glazes to separate one glaze from another on a piece.
Charles
Sacramento
From: "Gary Ferguson"
> Ellen:
>
> Sometimes I use masking tape (or quilters tape) to mask off areas that I
> want to keep free of glaze. Then after the glaze dries I remove the tape
> and fire the piece.
>
> Definitely no residue with this method.
>
> Gary Ferguson
> may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Christy Pines on tue 25 nov 03
At the Raku Rhody-O in Providence, RI, a beatiful pot was masked for glazing with automotive detailing tape. The kind they use to put stripes and all manner of fancy embellishments on your car. Made for a very clear line and gorgeous blacks. Get it at your local auto store.
christy in connecticut, itching to get the raku kiln I built off the porch and into the backyard and fired up, but instead am brining the turkey and cleaning the house for the family arrival.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Ferguson
Sent: Nov 24, 2003 7:51 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: raku & wax or latex resist
Ellen:
Sometimes I use masking tape (or quilters tape) to mask off areas that I
want to keep free of glaze. Then after the glaze dries I remove the tape
and fire the piece.
Definitely no residue with this method.
Gary Ferguson
Raku Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687
Raku Gallery and Glaze Collection at: http://www.garyrferguson.com
Subscribe to Just Raku Newsletter at http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Logowear at: http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
Karen Shapiro on tue 25 nov 03
Hi Ellen,
Something I do to boost the black areas is to use black boot polish on the finished piece or black acrylic paint. Works very well.
Karen in Gualala
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Phil Smith on tue 25 nov 03
Dear Ellen,
Water base latex. I use goodrich thinned out a bit. Consistency of heavy
cream. I add a few drops of green food coloring. I bisque these pieces on
the low side 07-06. Makes pieces more smoke permeable. Cardboard and sawdust
create a good smoke. Burnishing the to-be-smoked areas makes for a real
nice jet black sheen.
A technique I use is as follows:
Get a large round feed bucket. Place a small stand in the center.
(stand was el cheapo iron plant stand from home depot with legs cut down a
bit)
Place your reduction container on the stand.
(reduction container needs to be water tight at the bottom in case water
rises to it's level)
Fill feed bucket with a few inches of water.
(You should have four or five inches between water level and bottom of
reduction can. These values are variable depending on size of feed bin etc.)
Now you'll need an even larger can which you will place upsidedown over your
reduction can and down into the water.
(larger can has a half inch hole drilled in the bottom for air bleed)
(A cluster of smaller holes will also work fine)
Ok, You've lined your reduction can with cardboard or whatever,placed it on
the stand, filled your feed bucket with a few inches of water, and have
your upsidedown can to the side ready for placement over inner can.
(I made handles for my cover can to make it easier)
Fire your piece and place it in the reduction can.
Lower the cover can slowly over the flaming can allowing air to bleed.
Just as it's about to settle on the bottom of the feed bin I slam a wet
piece of clay over the bleed hole.
You will notice a vacuum is created and the water from the feed bin will
rise up into the cover can. As the piece cools the water will slowly return
to the start condition. Sometimes when i'm firing a copper glaze i'll remove
the clay plug after a minute or three and give a short burst of compressed
air and return a fresh piece of clay to the bleed hole.
This process produces almost no smoke outside the can and produces a very
nice black. The pollutants end up in the water which, by the way is very
foul. My nephew has dubbed it the "Nosmoku". The concept was gleaned from
an article in a pottery Magazine which I could dig out if interested.
Happy to answer any questions when I return as I am bound for a week on
Maui.
Phil...
Marvpots@AOL.COM on tue 25 nov 03
Hi Ellen:
I have used a wax resist which is predominantly polyethylene and does not
interefere with the black effect you are seeking.
I buy this from Ceramic Supply of NY & NJ located in Lodi, New Jersey, have
used it for many years with good results; It is virtually invisible on a
bisqued surface and so I add a bit of food coloring enabling me to know precisely
where the resist has been applied.
Hope this helps you.
All the best.
Marvin Flowerman
marvpots@aol.com
daniel on wed 26 nov 03
Another wax combination I've used which is less flammable is a mixture of
parafin wax and butcher block oil - about 2/3 1/3 proportion. (credit to
Troy Meek for this one). This can be melted on a coffee warmer and gives a
very fluid wax which can be painted on nicely and freely. I have however not
used it on bisque directly, rather on glaze surfaces to do overlaying of
glazes. I must try it on bisque and see what I get.
Thanx
D
BJ Clark writes:
> At my college we use a combination of bees wax (yellow-clear) and
> transmission fluid(castrol), heated to about 180 in a fondu pot. Be
> careful, it will catch on fire and keep it in only well ventilated
> areas (we have an exhaust hood).
> It however burns off very nice and doesn't seem to leave any marks on
> any of the raku pieces I've done so far.
> Just a thought.
> -----
> BJ Clark
> Blazing Media
> bjclark@blazing-media.com
> www.blazing-media.com
>
> On Nov 24, 2003, at 3:32 PM, ellen wrote:
>
>> A question for the raku guru's........
>>
>> I want to keep the rich blacks on the unglazed areas and have found
>> that
>> wax resist actually penetrates the bisque. The areas where I used the
>> wax
>> do not come out rich black after reduction, they are more of a dark
>> charcoal grey. We are firing to 1850 and getting great blacks except
>> where the wax was and it is noticeable.
>>
>> Is anyone using a paintable resist, that will burn away 100% in the
>> firing, and allow the blacks to be the same as the virgin bisqued
>> area???
>> I am going to try rubber cement....... Any other ideas???
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> ellen
>>
>> _______________________________________________________________________
>> _______
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> ____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
BJ Clark on wed 26 nov 03
At my college we use a combination of bees wax (yellow-clear) and
transmission fluid(castrol), heated to about 180 in a fondu pot. Be
careful, it will catch on fire and keep it in only well ventilated
areas (we have an exhaust hood).
It however burns off very nice and doesn't seem to leave any marks on
any of the raku pieces I've done so far.
Just a thought.
-----
BJ Clark
Blazing Media
bjclark@blazing-media.com
www.blazing-media.com
On Nov 24, 2003, at 3:32 PM, ellen wrote:
> A question for the raku guru's........
>
> I want to keep the rich blacks on the unglazed areas and have found
> that
> wax resist actually penetrates the bisque. The areas where I used the
> wax
> do not come out rich black after reduction, they are more of a dark
> charcoal grey. We are firing to 1850 and getting great blacks except
> where the wax was and it is noticeable.
>
> Is anyone using a paintable resist, that will burn away 100% in the
> firing, and allow the blacks to be the same as the virgin bisqued
> area???
> I am going to try rubber cement....... Any other ideas???
>
> thanks
>
> ellen
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Wally on thu 27 nov 03
Ellen,
Quite enjoyed reading all interesting replies to your question.
I personally prefer masking tape but occasionally switch to
waxresist for free designs, but I can not recall ever having had any
problem with blacks.
One of the answers mentionned that a strong reduction is very
important to get a profound dark black. Fully agree to that.
Some clays will also absorb more carbon than others. Also related
to bisque temperature. Different reduction materials can also create
different shades of black. Again, very true.
Speed of transferring those hot devils from the kiln to the
reduction container is also important. And I experienced that the
relation between object and "free space" in smokebin is also a very
determining factor.
But actually your point was, basically, you get black on bisque, and
grey on bisque covered with waxresist. All on the same object.
So none of any above can explain this difference.
I agree that the bisque sucks up part of the waxresist.
But this should have burnt away completely by the time the kiln
reaches raku glaze temperature.
So one possible explanation might be that, presuming your firing is
extremely short, not all waxresist has burnt away.....Very unlikely.
Pure "Wax" normally does not leave behind any residue that might
reject the carbon afterwards.
But "waxresist" comes in various brands, and most probably these
mixtures are all different. Most manufacturers do have that evil
tendency to keep their formulae secret. Anything could be mixed
with the wax, including leftovers from McDonalds......
So my point (and possible explanation) is that some of these
waxresist mixtures contain materials that do leave behind some kind
of deposit inside the clay, and form a kind of barrier, rejecting
the smoke and tar-fumes in the reduction container.
Thus creating a grey-black pattern instead of the nice black you get
on adjacent areas which are virgin bisque.
Just my 2 Eurocents worth, hoping above makes any sense.
Take care,
Wally Asselberghs
Flanders, Europa.
www.student.kuleuven.ac.be/~m9822918
-- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, ellen wrote:
> A question for the raku guru's........
>
> I want to keep the rich blacks on the unglazed areas and have
found that
> wax resist actually penetrates the bisque. The areas where I used
the wax
> do not come out rich black after reduction, they are more of a dark
> charcoal grey. We are firing to 1850 and getting great blacks
except
> where the wax was and it is noticeable.
>
> Is anyone using a paintable resist, that will burn away 100% in the
> firing, and allow the blacks to be the same as the virgin bisqued
area???
> I am going to try rubber cement....... Any other ideas???
>
> thanks
>
> ellen
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_________
> Send postings to clayart@l...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@p...
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