LindaBlossom on thu 6 nov 03
> I also meant to ask - do you have a vent running - kiln vents go a long
> to keeping oxygen resupplied - I would advise anyone single firing or even
> bisquing ware to consider having one.
No, I don't use a vent. I have the kilns in their own room separate from
the rest of the studio. I usually leave the lid cracked til about 350C then
close them and close the peeps around this time too.
> I do think it would be of use to us all if you would do some testing - a
> glaze with lots of boron on different thicknesses of clay completely
> and set on clay feet.
When the thickness increases moisture becomes an issue. By slowing the
firing down to address moisture, it is hard to tell if the paperclay needs
to be fired more slowly. Do you agree with this or am I not thinking of
something? I can glaze very thin tiles on both sides by making them with
little stands at the bottom.
> I can tell you which glazes would have the most boron if that will help -
> or I can furnish one.
If you have a cone 6 or 8 recipe that is high boron, I'd be glad to use it.
> I do agree that testing is appropriate but it is even more appropriate to
> have a back ground of understanding so that we can deal with problems that
> show up.
> It is also appropriate to understand as much as we can so that we can
> design the proper tests to prove or disprove theories.
>. This is about understanding more than proving
> and disproving.
My memory of the scientific method is, that based on what knowledge one
has, a theory is put forth and then the work is done to see if the theory
holds up. Proving or disproving theories is the means to further
>All in the interest of being better at what we do!
Ron Roy on sat 8 nov 03
It will be OK to fire thicker clay to do the testing - you just need to
leave those tiles on top of a firing kiln to get them completely dried out
before firing. The standard test to find out if clay is dry is to touch it
to your cheek - one of those on your face (maybe Tony will read this and
automatically think it it's the other cheeks I'm talking about) - if the
clay feels cold there is still water evaporating.
After glazing for singe fire the tiles would need to be dried again.
Here is a high boron glaze I just made up - I have not tested it - it may
run so protect your shelves.
3134 - 30.0
3195 - 30.0
G200 - 10.0 (Custer will do)
EPK - 15.0
Silica - 15.0
Total - 100.0
Regards for now - RR
>> I do think it would be of use to us all if you would do some testing - a
>> glaze with lots of boron on different thicknesses of clay completely
>> and set on clay feet.
>When the thickness increases moisture becomes an issue. By slowing the
>firing down to address moisture, it is hard to tell if the paperclay needs
>to be fired more slowly. Do you agree with this or am I not thinking of
>something? I can glaze very thin tiles on both sides by making them with
>little stands at the bottom.
>> I can tell you which glazes would have the most boron if that will help -
>> or I can furnish one.
15084 Little Lake Road