Lee Love on mon 29 sep 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hank Murrow"
> eight sides and open the form with a wooden rib. You should wind up
> with a soft-faceted yunome. the trick is throwing thickly and narrowly,
> then faceting and opening.
I'll give it a try. Because I do inlay, I like the carved lines to be
sharp.
On much of the work, I am not so much faceting, as I am texturing the
surface for inlay. I had been using a cheese cutter from the 100yen shop
for most of this. It had a wavy wire in it, so it made very pronounced
grooves. If you pull the cutter across the almost leather hard surface, it
looks a lot like my teacher's rope impression with his largest nylon rope.
The great thing about the cutting tool compared to using the rope for
impression, is that you are less likely to distort thin forms. I've used
your cutter Hank, to make a herring bone patter too by pulling the cutter
diagonally, for the first row left, next row right, etc. With the wavy
cutter, I can get sort of a plaid effect, by first going in one diagonal
line around the form and then doing a second layer of cutting on the
opposite diagonal.
The cheese cutter broke last cycle, but I made a comparable
replacement by wrapping stainless steel tightly around a bamboo shishkabob
skewer. You then take the tight coil off and pull each end tight.
Works good in Hank's wet faceter handle just fine (nuts on each end as
fasteners.) The wire I'm using is softer than the original cheese cutter
wire, so it stretches and looses shape in time, but is easy to replace.
I also use rollers, paddles and stamps for inlay.
Lee in Mashiko
Judi Buchanan on mon 29 sep 03
<
< The cheese cutter broke last cycle, but I made a comparable
shishkabob
Lee, the spring from a retractable point ball point pen also makes a
wire that can be used this way too.
Judi Buchanan
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