Alycia Goeke on thu 4 sep 03
hey david,
in the studio where i used to work we had screen that had a brush attachment
with a handle that you could turn. the brush was the same material as a
fingernail cleaning brush. when i got my own studio and started to mix my own
glazes, i just got a fingernail cleaning brush and i use that. it works great!
happy mixing.
alycia
Paul Lewing on thu 4 sep 03
David, I'd say you do need to add more water. There's an enormous variation
in the amount of water that any given glaze recipe needs to get it to the
consistency that you need. And often commercial glazes have a lot of gum in
them, which makes than thicker than they would be without it.
If you find after you've sieved it that it's too thin, just let it set for a
day or two and decant some of the water. This is what I try to do with all
my glazes, and consequently I never measure the water. I just eyeball it to
a place where I know I have too much and mix it that way. In fact, I have a
couple of recipes that are much improved by this decanting of water- they
probably have some soluble baddies that are eliminated that way. It just
means you have to plan ahead, that's all.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
David Lane on thu 4 sep 03
I just mixed up my first batch of dry glaze, 25 lbs of Spectrum 1120 Satin
Clear. Using the directions as a guide I used 13 pints of water, slowly
pouring in the powder, and mixing it with a paddle on my power drill. It
appears to be about the consistency of heavy cream. The directions call
for putting it through an 80 mesh screen, but it just barely trickles
through. Using rubber gloves, I rubbed the screen trying to help it
through but it still doesn't want to go through.
What does this mean? Do I need to add more water and make it even
thinner? Or is this normal? If it's normal it will certainly take
several hours to get the 3 1/2 gallons of glaze through the screen.
David
Jennifer Buckner on thu 4 sep 03
At 08:08 PM 9/4/2003, D. Lane wrote:
>I just mixed up my first batch of dry glaze,............The directions call
>for putting it through an 80 mesh screen, but it just barely trickles
>through. ............. Or is this normal?
David,
I had the same experience when I first mixed a batch of commercial
glaze. Someone on Clayart suggested I use a paint brush to push the glaze
through. I use a cheap 3" wide paint brush, (you can find one in Walmart
;->) with the bristles cut to about 2" long and I just rub it gently around
the surface of the screen. The glaze should run through fairly easily. Be
you have a gap between the edge of the screen and the top edge of the pail
for air to move through.
Jennifer
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Jennifer G. Buckner jenniverre@earthlink.net
william schran on fri 5 sep 03
David wrote: >Using rubber gloves, I rubbed the screen trying to help it
through but it still doesn't want to go through.
What does this mean?
David - Use a rubber rib or, even better, a stiff brush to move the
glaze through that 80 mesh sieve.
Bill
Dupre CTR Marcy M on fri 5 sep 03
The purpose is sieving is to break up clumps and get all the particles in
suspension. Sometimes, I will deliberately add a little more water than
necessary, sieve the glaze, then wait a while for the glaze to settle, and
siphon off or sponge off excess water.
If the glaze is fairly thick, such as an ash glaze, I will put on rubber
gloves (because I don't wash ash), and use a vegetable scrubber brush to
work the glaze through the sieve. Folks at the studio where I teach raise
eyebrows when I tell them that I sieve 30 mesh twice, and 80 mesh three
times.
I like my glazes smooth and creamy. Every now and again, for variety, I use
what I call a "cold mix." Dry blend all the ingredients, then sift them
slowly into the correct amount of water. Allow the dry blend to slake
naturally (like mixing plaster), then stir with a paddle. Glove and check
for clumps, then dip or pour the glaze onto pots. (I'm not set up for
spraying, yet.)
I've tried to use squeegees, fingers, and large brushes, but nothing works
as well as the little scrubber brush, or one of the red and yellow scrubber
pads.
Remember to keep the glaze bucket covered when not in use, and stir well
before using. Some folks wear a mask while glazing, because of residual
dust. Just a precaution...
Best of luck,
Tig
in a marvelous, wanna-play-hooky-from-work, late-Summer Springfield, VA day
David Lane on fri 5 sep 03
Dear Clayart folks.....THANKS for all the info (both on and off the list).
I'll pick up a brush at Walmart today!
David
Susan Fox-Hirschmann on fri 5 sep 03
I have always used the rubber spatulas....the extra big ones and find they
work best, still with rubber gloves, of course
Susan
Annandale, VA
Ron Roy on fri 5 sep 03
It is easy to get glaze through a screen if you just add a lot of water -
it practically pours through - you then skim off the clear water the next
day - mix and add back the right amount of water to get the right
consistency.
If there are solubles in the glaze you will lose some of them however - so
better find out what kind of solubles are in the glaze if any - from
spectrum.
If there are - find out what kind and if they are necessary for melting.
If they are just there as organic binders and/or suspenders you could add
in more if they are needed.
What ever you do don't go to a courser sieve - 80M is as course as you want
to go for glaze.
RR
>I just mixed up my first batch of dry glaze, 25 lbs of Spectrum 1120 Satin
>Clear. Using the directions as a guide I used 13 pints of water, slowly
>pouring in the powder, and mixing it with a paddle on my power drill. It
>appears to be about the consistency of heavy cream. The directions call
>for putting it through an 80 mesh screen, but it just barely trickles
>through. Using rubber gloves, I rubbed the screen trying to help it
>through but it still doesn't want to go through.
>What does this mean? Do I need to add more water and make it even
>thinner? Or is this normal? If it's normal it will certainly take
>several hours to get the 3 1/2 gallons of glaze through the screen.
>
>David
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
David Lane on sat 6 sep 03
I cut off all but about an inch of a bristle paint brush and got the glaze
through an 80 mesh screen in about ten minutes. Thanks again for the
tips. I wound up adding at least and extra quart of water to the 3 and
1/2 gal mixture. I dipped a couple of pots in the glaze for about two
seconds and it left a much thicker coating then I think would be
desireable so I might have to thin it down some more.
I've got a brand new copy of Matering Cone 6 Glazes sitting on the shelf,
maybe I should read it. ;-)
Thanks again,
David
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