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stains question

updated fri 1 aug 03


primalmommy on wed 30 jul 03

I have worked literally day and night since I got home from the Lana
workshop, reworking an old theme of mine with new techniques... In the
excruciatingly long time it will take me to let these dry i will be
doing some glaze tests in my little kiln. I am looking for a way to
enhance texture and stamping on handbuilt pieces made from B-mix,
something more varied than the old wipe-on-iron-oxide-and-wipe-it-off,
but with the same general effect and with no glossiness.

I know, I know, this is one of those
questions... but i am not sure whether the stuff to mix with mason
stains in my books/notes will create a glossy surface which is not what
I'm after. I know about shoe polish (which is nice, and done well can
give kind of a ivory/netsuke look) but we're talking tiny cracks and
crevices, tiny attachments and other complications. I'd like to be able
to leave some surfaces white, stain some (like the mer-boys tail) mason
green, use iron for red-brown... but no gloss!

Anybody want to write a testimonial for some commercial wonder product,
or let me know what to start my testing process with? I would like to
take these to cone 5 or 6...

I just know i am going to get flamed for asking a do-my-homework-for-me
question but if some lurker writes me off list with suggestions it will
be worth it... at least a starting place for my test-test-tests...

Yours, kelly in ohio

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Joe Coniglio on thu 31 jul 03

After firing:
I also sponge and spray bottle my iron oxides and mason stains. Cutting a
sponge to near size can give a nice clean dab to a stamp. No way out of that
wiping process it seems. But I've also used some clear acrylic which fixes
nice on the piece.

Paste wax has given some desired effects too. Nice part about afterwards at ^
5-6 is that you can pretty much wash the soluble -washes- off and start

The very tiny amount of pure acrylic base will fix rather permanently after
it dries.