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peeling glaze upon application before firing

updated sat 7 jun 03

 

Paul Lewing on tue 3 jun 03


on 6/3/03 5:49 AM, Derrick Pottery - owner - Wesley Derrick at
verboten@NETDOOR.COM wrote:

> The recipe.(perhaps its makeup is the culprit)
> Magnesium carbonate 37.00 37.00
> Borax 28.00 28.00
> EPK 14.00 14.00
> Lithium carbonate 7.00 7.00
> Colemanite 14.00 14.00
> -------- --------
> Totals: 100.00 100.00
>
> Also add:
>
>
> Copper carbonate 10.00 10.00

Yep, you're right, Wesley- it's the makeup of the glaze that's the problem.
It's the magnesium carbonate. You probably noticed how light and fluffy the
stuff is. Well, it shrinks like mad when it dries. Normally, I'd say to
get your MgO from talc rather than the carbonate, but lots of SiO2 comes
along in the talc, and you don't have any loose silica to take out to
compensate.
Which brings me to your other problems with this glaze, and there are
several. I don't even need to think about running this through a
calculation program to see that this doesn't have anywhere NEAR enough SiO2
to be a durable glaze. Only the EPK and the colemanite are contributing
any, and at that, not much.
Plus, 35% of this glaze, the borax and the lithium carbonate, are soluble.
This will lead to more problems.
To make matters worse, 10% copper carbonate is an ungodly amount of copper.
I don't think I'd have to have this one tested to know that that's not going
to stay in this glaze in any kind of use. I hope you're not even thinking
of getting food anywhere near this stuff, because there's no way this one is
stable.
Paul Lewing, Seattle

Derrick Pottery - owner - Wesley Derrick on tue 3 jun 03


What can be done to remedy the problem of peeling glaze during the
application before firing?

I just made the following recipe over the weekend and have tried brushing
it on a piece 3 times and no matter what thickness, it always peels off the
pot like a sun-soaked mud puddle. The one time that it didn't peel up was
with only (1) coat applied.....but that's not nearly thick enough. It
requires at least (2) coats...but then the cracking starts and then
it peels up.
I haven't had this problem with any other glaze except back in school when
I was dipping instead of brushing and the glaze didn't have enough water
and was too thick with one dip. Easily cured.....but this? I don't know..

The recipe.(perhaps it's makeup is the culprit)
Magnesium carbonate 37.00 37.00
Borax 28.00 28.00
EPK 14.00 14.00
Lithium carbonate 7.00 7.00
Colemanite 14.00 14.00
-------- --------
Totals: 100.00 100.00

Also add:


Copper carbonate 10.00 10.00

Thank You all....
Wesley -- wderrick@sheldonlabs.com
or verboten@netdoor.com

Lois Ruben Aronow on tue 3 jun 03


The problem is the magnesium carbonate, which is used in an extreme
quantity. I am assuming this is a glaze that is meant to crawl, as
most crawling glazes are by nature overloaded with magnesium carb.

This sort of glaze doesn't take well to brushing. If you are
determined to brush, try adding a little cmc - about .25%, and maybe
some veegum. I dip mine, and I have spent the better part of the year
perfecting my handling techniques. =20

Crawling glazes are VERY sensitive to thickness. No matter how thin,
it will probably at least craze on the pot before firing. However,
this kind of glaze needs to be quite thick to get the kind of effects
it is known for, which I am assuming you are after.

I don't know what temp you're firing to, but mine spits like an
orangutan, so get yourself a good kiln wash at the very least.


************
www.loisaronow.com
=46ine Craft Porcelain and Pottery


***************************************
Lois Ruben Aronow
Modern Porcelain and Tableware
http://www.loisaronow.com=20

Derrick Pottery - owner - Wesley Derrick on wed 4 jun 03


Big thanks to you all..
I have been so impressed with the rapport between worldwide potters in this
forum .....it makes my soul very happy to have you all so close via clayart.

..seems the best place for this glaze is not on clay.

I'll play with it a bit this weekend and let those interested no my results
with an update and photos.

I was so curious to see this glaze work because of a '97 post by a lady that
just praised it's results in both her oxidation and reduction (raku)
firings.
Perhaps her post was in reference to the ^6 glaze by the same
name "Moondust" and not the ^06...but with her mention of raku
reduction.....hummm....
Wanted to say....Lois - Ric.....I love y'alls websites...very impressive
work.

In the west nile incubator,
Wesley Derrick
Raymond, MS

william schran on wed 4 jun 03


Wesley wrote: have tried brushing
it on a piece 3 times and no matter what thickness, it always peels off the
pot like a sun-soaked mud puddle.>

The glaze contains 37% magnesium carbonate - that's your problem.

You could sub talc or dolomite for the magnesium, but you'll also
have to adjust the silica with the talc and contend with the calcium
with the dolomite.
Bill

1trehill on wed 4 jun 03


I do a lot of glaze over glaze decorating and find from time to time the
over-glaze will peel. I spray the troublesome area with CMC mixed with
water. This will settle most patches down. The CMC is mixed to about milk
consistency and left permanently in a hand spray for such occasions.

Ric Pierce
Studio Potter
One Tree Hill Pottery
PO Box 487 Beechworth Vic 3747 Australia
1trehill@netc.net.au
www.onetreehillpottery.com.au

Diane Winters on thu 5 jun 03


Hi Wesley,

When you said the glaze you were asking about is called Moondust, that rang
a bell, as I had just recently copied it off a website (noticed it had an
odd amount of magnesium carb., but filed it away anyway.) So I've done a
little web-research:

The post you mentioned by a woman praising this raku glaze was from Michelle
Williams. She calls it a glossy glaze. Here's her post from the Clayart
archives, plus her second post in which she provides the formula.
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?A2=ind0204A&L=CLAYART&P=R3788
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?A2=ind0204A&L=CLAYART&P=R32173
In the latter post she mentions using it on one pot over a white crackle.

An earlier, unrelated Clayart post had the same formula, and refers to it as
firing dry and retaining a riverbed-crack texture. He had a similar
experience to yours in applying the glaze.
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?A2=ind9709&L=CLAYART&P=R33240

I found the same Moondust glaze on another website with a slightly different
description, information about use plus links to several photos!!
http://www.geocities.com/misery_de_dark/page3.html (it's a little more than
half-way down the page)

It's also listed on Gary Ferguson's website of raku glazes
http://wwwgaryrferguson.com/rakuglaz2.htm but with no further information.

Good luck trying to make it work (or in finding another glaze if you decide
to give up on this one)

Diane Winters
in Oakland/Berkeley, with one more weekend to go of the East Bay Open
Studios (hoping we won't have last weekend's perfect beach weather luring
folks away from spending money on art)

POTTERY on thu 5 jun 03


Do you spray the "troublesome area with cmc" before or after adding the
second glaze. I have the same problem,

Sandy Cryer in HOT Arizona
Not much clay these days, just finished real estate school, now taking 3
week training with Ken Meade Realty in NW Phoenix.......Don't have time to
think!!


Subject: Re: Peeling Glaze upon application before firing


> I do a lot of glaze over glaze decorating and find from time to time the
> over-glaze will peel. I spray the troublesome area with CMC mixed with
> water. This will settle most patches down. The CMC is mixed to about milk
> consistency and left permanently in a hand spray for such occasions.
>
> Ric Pierce
> Studio Potter
> One Tree Hill Pottery
> PO Box 487 Beechworth Vic 3747 Australia
> 1trehill@netc.net.au
> www.onetreehillpottery.com.au
>
>
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1trehill on fri 6 jun 03


Spraying troublesome areas with cmc is done after the area turns
troublesome, that is after the peeling , lifting and sometimes separating
has occurred. Wetting the curled-up areas can reverse the process with the
upcurled edges sitting down willingly. For the really bad spots get the area
really wet with the CMC and rub carefully with your fingers. You can restick
pieces that have totally separated. And as miracles sometimes happen, those
bits stuck back seem to remain there during the subsequent firing.

Regards Ric Pierce
Studio Potter
One Tree Hill Pottery
PO Box 487 Beechworth Vic 3747 Australia
1trehill@netc.net.au
www.onetreehillpottery.com.au