Snail Scott on wed 26 mar 03
At 08:44 PM 3/26/03 -0000, you wrote:
>I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
>They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
>but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
>The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
This can be really tough. It works better if the
stuff's not completely dry. Otherwise, some clays
(though not all) just fall apart when rehydrated.
I have the best luck by wrapping any overly-stiff
pieces in soft knit cloth, like cotton sweatshirt
material. (Natural fibers hold the moisture best,
knits conform well to the contours of the clay,
and you want a cloth thick enough to hold a fair
amount of water.) Tuck the damp fabric around the
clay, getting maximum surface contact everywhere
possible. Wrap the whole thing in plastic, and
wait. Check the next day, and if the fabric had
dried a bit, spray the whole thing with a squirt
bottle. Repeat periodically until the clay is the
consistency you need. Different clays will reabsorb
water at different rates, and some clays tolerate
rehydration better than others.
For large sculpture, this can be the salvation of
a month's work. Here in the desert climate a work-
break of just a few days can leave some parts too
dry to finish even if well-wrapped, and a day of
unwrapped studio time can put a whole piece past
the workable stages of dampness.
For pottery, though, I question whether the effort
would be the best use of your time, especially if
they are truly bone-dry. Most clays can be brought
back from the brink of stiff leather-hard, even if
the color has started to change a bit, but some will
lose their structural integrity when rewetted after
they're fully dry. If it's just a few pieces, let
'em go.
Are these pieces just lacking the trimming? Try
wetting just the relevant surface before you trim.
Then trim off the softened areas, and re-wet just
the areas that need more work. This will usually
allow you to trim to the proper contour, though
you won't be able to compress the surface as you
would if it were leather-hard throughout.
-Snail
p.s. I've refrained from commenting for the past
few days, to help reduce the total volume of posts.
Then I decided it's stupid to let the political
comments displace the ceramic ones. Surely those
folks discussing the relative merits of off-topic
threads never meant for them to elbow out the clay-
related discussion, but it has happened, even so.
-S.
Snail Scott on wed 26 mar 03
At 05:47 PM 3/26/03 -0800, you wrote:
> A student of mine used the wet rag/paper towel and plastic trick. The
piece was relatively thin, but he re-wet it slowly so that it wouldn't
crumble. It worked fine, except for one thing. Huge blisters appeared all
over the covered area. They looked like pockets of air.
Sounds like the clay on the outside rehydrated and
expanded, forcing it to split away from the still-
dry layers underneath. I'll bet it was a thrown piece,
or a slab piece made by folding and re-folding the
clay, resulting in a very laminar structure.
-Snail
Steven D. Lee on wed 26 mar 03
I need help....
I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
Is there a trick to doing this or what?
***************************************************
Steven D. Lee
SD Pottery - The Little Texas Potter
http:\\www.sdpottery.com
millenial_age@yahoo.com
14341 FM 112
Thrall, TX 76578
512-898-5195
***************************************************
Rick Hamelin on wed 26 mar 03
Well, so many factors affect the success such as shape, angles, wall
thickness, base width, clay type and what you claim to be bone dry. Remember
the pots are now smaller dry than when they were made and will expand as they
take up the water. Dip the whole piece in water. All surface must be evenly
wet. Dip a cloth no thicker than shirt cotton and cover it base to top, maybe
one or two layers. Wet terry towels can be too heavy and put too much pressure
on the piece. Double or triple bag. Go read War and Peace. Come back a day
later. Repeat if needed. Be patient. Accept the lesson if they crack.
Maybe you should just dip to saturate the trimming area and cut until you get
to the dry surface and repeat. You have to be patient!
Welcome to the club. You just earned yourself a bronze star! Just remember to
be wearing a shirt when they pin it on you. I still have a scar.
> I need help....
>
> I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
> They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
> but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
> The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
>
> Is there a trick to doing this or what?
>
> ***************************************************
> Steven D. Lee
> SD Pottery - The Little Texas Potter
> http:\\www.sdpottery.com
> millenial_age@yahoo.com
> 14341 FM 112
> Thrall, TX 76578
> 512-898-5195
> ***************************************************
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Tony Ferguson on wed 26 mar 03
Steve,
At best, you can wet rags and wrap your pieces and then put a plastic bag
over the pieces in the attempt to re-hydrate the work. In most cases it
will. The key is letting the clay equalize so the moisture is even
throughout.
Thank you.
Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven D. Lee"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 2:44 PM
Subject: Rehydrating greenware
> I need help....
>
> I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
> They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
> but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
> The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
>
> Is there a trick to doing this or what?
>
> ***************************************************
> Steven D. Lee
> SD Pottery - The Little Texas Potter
> http:\\www.sdpottery.com
> millenial_age@yahoo.com
> 14341 FM 112
> Thrall, TX 76578
> 512-898-5195
> ***************************************************
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Earl Brunner on wed 26 mar 03
This works very well, you just go slower, taking less off each time. It
really helps if you have a sharp trimming tool, Bison or similar preferred.
I once had a 24 inch platter that dried unevenly, making it next to
impossible to trim. I just let it dry out completely and then was able
to use this method to trim. It turned out fine. You have to be careful
of applying too much downward pressure on the rim of a dry pot and you
will have serious problems if the rim is not even and laying flat on the
wheel head or bat. I sometimes trim on thin foam pads or folded towels
(but then you can't anchor the pot down very well).
Earl Brunner
Rick Hamelin wrote:
>
> Maybe you should just dip to saturate the trimming area and cut until you get
> to the dry surface and repeat. You have to be patient!
> Welcome to the club. You just earned yourself a bronze star! Just remember to
> be wearing a shirt when they pin it on you. I still have a scar.
>
>>I need help....
>>
>>I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
>>They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
>>but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
>>The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
>>
>>Is there a trick to doing this or what?
>>
>>***************************************************
>>Steven D. Lee
>>SD Pottery - The Little Texas Potter
>>http:\\www.sdpottery.com
>>millenial_age@yahoo.com
>>14341 FM 112
>>Thrall, TX 76578
>>512-898-5195
>>***************************************************
William Jacob on wed 26 mar 03
On the rehydrating topic:
A student of mine used the wet rag/paper towel and plastic trick. The piece was relatively thin, but he re-wet it slowly so that it wouldn't crumble. It worked fine, except for one thing. Huge blisters appeared all over the covered area. They looked like pockets of air. My question is, where did this air come from? Or, was did the water somehow collect into pockets and distort the clay? Just curious.
joe
--- Tony Ferguson wrote:
>Steve,
>
>At best, you can wet rags and wrap your pieces and then put a plastic bag
>over the pieces in the attempt to re-hydrate the work. In most cases it
>will. The key is letting the clay equalize so the moisture is even
>throughout.
>
_____________________________________________________________
Get Paid to Surf the Web ---> http://www.epilot.com
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Les on wed 26 mar 03
Steven -
I had the same problem last week. Tried a few things like you, got some advice from some "pros".
I wound up getting a 20 litre (5 gal.) bucket and smashing them to reclaim. It's quicker and easier to do it that way and then sit down and throw some more pots. Don't sweat it!
Les Crimp on Vancouver Island.
lcrimp@shaw.ca
www.arrowsmithpottersguild.bc.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven D. Lee
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 1:54 PM
Subject: Rehydrating greenware
>I need help....
>
>I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
>They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
>but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
>The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
>
>Is there a trick to doing this or what?
>
>***************************************************
>Steven D. Lee
>SD Pottery - The Little Texas Potter
>http:\\www.sdpottery.com
>millenial_age@yahoo.com
>14341 FM 112
>Thrall, TX 76578
>512-898-5195
>***************************************************
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Michael Wendt on thu 27 mar 03
Steven,
Strange this comes up now. Three weeks ago, I forgot to put some pitchers
away that were ordered and on short deadline. I got out the spray bottle and
lightly sprayed the surfaces with a fine mist, left the pitchers and came
back for the next hour every 5-10 minutes, each time lightly misting the dry
pots. In about and hour, they were reasonably uniform in moisture, took
handles beautifully and took far less time to mist than it would have taken
to make new ones. They went through bisque and glaze fine and the handles
were flawless too, so I have added this rescue option to my repertoire.
Try it, you have nothing to lose.
Regards,
Michael Wendt wendtpot@lewiston.com
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Avenue
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
1-208-746-3724
wendtpottery.com
Steven wrote:
I need help....
I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
Is there a trick to doing this or what?
***************************************************
Steven D. Lee
Valerie Hawkins on thu 27 mar 03
I'm just getting back to the list, so I hope I'm not repeating a solution
already offered.
Something I read somewhere but have not tried....
You can make a 'rehydrating box' by pouring some plaster into the bottom of
a cooler (make sure the cooler can be sealed well). Once your plaser has
cured, super saturate it . - make sure there is no standing water. Set your
pieces in the cooler and seal.
Supposedly, they will absorb the humidity in the cooler and return to a
leather hard state.
Valerie
Charlotte
BRIAN GUFFEY on thu 27 mar 03
sounds like a wet-ware-box. i heard the same sort of thing where it is a=
wooden box sealed with wax. without the plaster it acts like a plastic =
bag keeping the moisture in, with the plaster it was used to reconstitute=
the clay. hmm ... perked my interest again with that idea ... need to ma=
ke one now. =20
Brian Guffey
----- Original Message -----
From: Valerie Hawkins
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 7:48 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Rehydrating greenware
I'm just getting back to the list, so I hope I'm not repeating a solution
already offered.
Something I read somewhere but have not tried....
You can make a 'rehydrating box' by pouring some plaster into the bottom =
of
a cooler (make sure the cooler can be sealed well). Once your plaser has
cured, super saturate it . - make sure there is no standing water. Set y=
our
pieces in the cooler and seal.
Supposedly, they will absorb the humidity in the cooler and return to a
leather hard state.
Valerie
Charlotte
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
k.com.
BRIAN GUFFEY on thu 27 mar 03
How true is that! That would be a lot easier solution to your dilema the=
re steven.
Brian Guffey
----- Original Message -----
From: Les
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 10:41 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Rehydrating greenware
Steven -
I had the same problem last week. Tried a few things like you, got some =
advice from some "pros".
I wound up getting a 20 litre (5 gal.) bucket and smashing them to reclai=
m. It's quicker and easier to do it that way and then sit down and throw=
some more pots. Don't sweat it!
Les Crimp on Vancouver Island.
lcrimp@shaw.ca
www.arrowsmithpottersguild.bc.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven D. Lee
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 1:54 PM
Subject: Rehydrating greenware
>I need help....
>
>I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
>They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
>but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
>The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
>
>Is there a trick to doing this or what?
>
>***************************************************
>Steven D. Lee
>SD Pottery - The Little Texas Potter
>http:\\www.sdpottery.com
>millenial_age@yahoo.com
>14341 FM 112
>Thrall, TX 76578
>512-898-5195
>***************************************************
>
>________________________________________________________________________=
______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pcli=
nk.com.
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
k.com.
Les on thu 27 mar 03
Michael -
What a great story! Good for you. I guess we gotta do what we gotta do!
Best regards,
Les.
lcrimp@shaw.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Wendt
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Thursday, March 27, 2003 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: Rehydrating greenware
>Les,
>Normally I throw such things away if they get dry but this was a wedding
>present which had to be at a wedding by a specific date. To get the piece
in
>the next bisque load would have made it a week late and I was able to
>fulfill an order that might well have been cancelled had I called the
>customer to explain that I goofed. I couldn't hold up the rest of my order
>work for this one pot to be made over plus the time to dry it too, so I
>tried something new. Result: in an emergency, I can save a critical order
by
>misting. Bottom line... it took no longer to mist the pot for a few sprays
>every now and then than it would have taken to weigh out, wedge, center,
>throw and wire another pitcher plus it put me back on schedule.
>Regards,
>Michael Wendt
>Wendt Pottery
>2729 Clearwater Avenue
>Lewiston, Idaho 83501
>1-208-746-3724
>wendtpottery.com
>Les wrote:
>"Michael/Steven -
>I am wondering if all this extra time and labour is worth it. Does it make
>the piece worth more because of the additional work put into it? The clay
>is recoverable. How many pots of the same type could you throw in the time
>it took to go back time and again to trim little by litttle?
>
>I'm not intending to be argumentative.... I guess I'm lazy (and old or
both)
>so I look for the easiest way to accomplish the task.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Les Crimp on Vancouver Island."
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
BRIAN GUFFEY on thu 27 mar 03
Generally, you did the right thing. one of the things i ussually try is,=
i have this really old microwave. because some of my peices are thick i=
n some places, i dunk my pieces in water, wrap them in wet paper towels a=
nd triple bag it. i stick it in the microwave for a minute, maybe two. =
in effect i steam it. the water in steam form penetrates the bone dry pi=
ece alot easier and evenly. though i must warn you, watch the piece and =
don't use your regular one ... nasty nasty clay tasting food after that. =
works with plastilina as well, only ... the microwave is ONLY usable for=
plastilina clay after that ... since its oil based.
Brian Guffey
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven D. Lee
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 5:13 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Rehydrating greenware
I need help....
I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
Is there a trick to doing this or what?
***************************************************
Steven D. Lee
SD Pottery - The Little Texas Potter
http:\\www.sdpottery.com
millenial_age@yahoo.com
14341 FM 112
Thrall, TX 76578
512-898-5195
***************************************************
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclin=
k.com.
Les on thu 27 mar 03
Michael/Steven -
I am wondering if all this extra time and labour is worth it. Does it make the piece worth more because of the additional work put into it? The clay is recoverable. How many pots of the same type could you throw in the time it took to go back time and again to trim little by litttle?
I'm not intending to be argumentative.... I guess I'm lazy (and old or both) so I look for the easiest way to accomplish the task.
Cheers,
Les Crimp on Vancouver Island.
lcrimp@shaw.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Wendt
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Thursday, March 27, 2003 2:29 AM
Subject: Re: Rehydrating greenware
>Steven,
>Strange this comes up now. Three weeks ago, I forgot to put some pitchers
>away that were ordered and on short deadline. I got out the spray bottle and
>lightly sprayed the surfaces with a fine mist, left the pitchers and came
>back for the next hour every 5-10 minutes, each time lightly misting the dry
>pots. In about and hour, they were reasonably uniform in moisture, took
>handles beautifully and took far less time to mist than it would have taken
>to make new ones. They went through bisque and glaze fine and the handles
>were flawless too, so I have added this rescue option to my repertoire.
>Try it, you have nothing to lose.
>Regards,
>Michael Wendt wendtpot@lewiston.com
>Wendt Pottery
>2729 Clearwater Avenue
>Lewiston, Idaho 83501
>1-208-746-3724
>wendtpottery.com
>Steven wrote:
>I need help....
>
>I tried to rehydrate some pieces that I totally forgot to cover.
>They are bone dry. I wrapped them with damp newspaper and a towel,
>but overnight only the outside got sufficiently damp to do trimming.
>The inside is damp, but not as damp as the outside.
>
>Is there a trick to doing this or what?
>
>***************************************************
>Steven D. Lee
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Rick Hamelin on thu 27 mar 03
The experience of learning something new is always valuable unless it prevents
the progress of more importance. If he had never done it before, it certainly
would teach him something new. If it distracts, then it is best in the bucket.
I tell my new students to be honest about to themselves about their pots, to
keep the best and not waste time with the questionable ones. They must realize
that when they release themselves from the guilt of "I made it with my hands,
so every pot must be kept" , another ball of clay is always at the ready. You
do know of those pots that need to be rescued. If you don't you haven't made
enough pots. If you can toss them, then you are making enough. Sometimes it is
so hard to find center.
Michael Wendt on thu 27 mar 03
Les,
Normally I throw such things away if they get dry but this was a wedding
present which had to be at a wedding by a specific date. To get the piece in
the next bisque load would have made it a week late and I was able to
fulfill an order that might well have been cancelled had I called the
customer to explain that I goofed. I couldn't hold up the rest of my order
work for this one pot to be made over plus the time to dry it too, so I
tried something new. Result: in an emergency, I can save a critical order by
misting. Bottom line... it took no longer to mist the pot for a few sprays
every now and then than it would have taken to weigh out, wedge, center,
throw and wire another pitcher plus it put me back on schedule.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Avenue
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
1-208-746-3724
wendtpottery.com
Les wrote:
"Michael/Steven -
I am wondering if all this extra time and labour is worth it. Does it make
the piece worth more because of the additional work put into it? The clay
is recoverable. How many pots of the same type could you throw in the time
it took to go back time and again to trim little by litttle?
I'm not intending to be argumentative.... I guess I'm lazy (and old or both)
so I look for the easiest way to accomplish the task.
Cheers,
Les Crimp on Vancouver Island."
BVCuma on fri 28 mar 03
If you can toss them, then you are making enough.
_________________
Certainly... toss em.
I am so interested in exploring form
that I very often can't wait till "the next ball of clay"
and move directly into variations... then and there.
The clay goes directly to the wedging table for recycling...
...often for days on end.
Keeps my "production" numbers down.
Depends...so many situations.
In India most often the air is dry and hot...
So it is routine for me to rag, bag and sun my pots.
I like to do it..equalizes and optimizes moisture
content for trimming..and then allows
for a speedy completion to bone dry ...
24 hrs or less.
Besides I am about 20 firings behind
(obsessive about form)
and lack shelf space...
my marketing is, well..non existent.
So I HAVE to recycle.
I now have quit throwing.
it is a problem for me..I can't stop
So..I just did...totally
I see only glaze work for the next say.. three months.
I have alot of work to do there..
LP Skeens Glaze recipe book post
and Lily's on Glaze and Materials management
have come at a perfect time...(thanx)
...as I am suffering from bad habits in both these respects.
Poor notes and poor glaze management...simply sloppy.
I spent too much time trying to figure out what I did
and how to do it again... freaking pulling my hair out!
Anyway..I like it.
...the challenge
Bvcuma
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