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throwing dry - getting started

updated mon 31 mar 03

 

Bob Nicholson on tue 25 mar 03


I learned to throw from several people who use water...
LOTS of water! One of my teachers, who throws
beautiful, large pots, says "I throw fast and wet,
and keep a propane torch handy."

I recently attended workshops by a couple of excellent
potters, and noticed that they throw very, very dry.
The advantage is that they can take more time with
the work, and are able to get more size from the
same amount of clay because it isn't weakened by
excessive water. (Plus, clean-up is a LOT easier.)

I want to try switching techniques. Are there any
specific things I should know about throwing dry?
In making a transition, should I gradually cut back
on the amount of water I use, or is it better to go
"cold turkey?"

I'd really appreciate input, especially from anyone
who has gone through this transition in throwing
styles.

Thanks,

Bob

Lissy DeLeer on wed 26 mar 03


I throw quite dry. Not totally, but anyway.
I sometimes work on a piece for an hour or so, as well.

I always use slip, not water. Water seems to soak in more, and slip is actually wetter, in that it clings to the pot better. Inbetween I wipe the pot off completely with a fine sponge, and arrange my blow dryer on a low blow, at an angle on a stick, and set the bat truning really slow, and leave this doing its thing for 10 minutes. After that it rests 10 minutes, and then it's fairly steady and I can continue throwing. This way I can throw my vingerling (NL) 50% porcelain/ 50% white stoneware really really thin. It becomes gorgeous and rings like church bells when tapped.

I can ask Theresa to put some pictures of this method up on her page, and of the bowls.

Lissy

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iandol on wed 26 mar 03


Dear Bob Nicholson,

Try to get hold of a copy of James Fox's original article from the 1973 =
CM, as cited by Leon Nigrosh. This is the only description you will find =
that gives good instructions. As far as I know all the other writers of =
books about using the wheel and throwing clay, including the recent =
ones, have ignored this method.

And YES, you will have to go cold turkey.

Enjoy the Ride!!

Best regards,

Ivor Lewis

Pat Southwood on thu 27 mar 03


Bob,
Wear white and have no running water. Cold turkey doesn't last long!
Best,
Pat.

Raoul Swahn on sun 30 mar 03








Hello! You won´t need a propanetorch if you cut down on the water and take the time to compress the clay with ribs. Personally I always wedge the clay in the evening and leave it unwrapped overnight, so as to get some of the water out of the clay, before I re-wedge it in the morning. And go slow, "fast and wet" can be fun, but sometimes you want to be in control.


Greetings from Sweden, in my little village you can hear the chain-saws roaring, as we prepare our wood for next winterseason. The grass is crackling dry and there has been fires around here. The kiln in my garden feels no hurry.


Raoul



 



.>Reply-To: Clayart  




>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG

>Subject: throwing dry - getting started

>Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 08:19:36 -0800

>

>I learned to throw from several people who use water...

>LOTS of water! One of my teachers, who throws

>beautiful, large pots, says "I throw fast and wet,

>and keep a propane torch handy."

>

>I recently attended workshops by a couple of excellent

>potters, and noticed that they throw very, very dry.

>The advantage is that they can take more time with

>the work, and are able to get more size from the

>same amount of clay because it isn't weakened by

>excessive water. (Plus, clean-up is a LOT easier.)

>

>I want to try switching techniques. Are there any

>specific things I should know about throwing dry?

>In making a transition, should I gradually cut back

>on the amount of water I use, or is it better to go

>"cold turkey?"

>

>I'd really appreciate input, especially from anyone

>who has gone through this transition in throwing

>styles.

>

>Thanks,

>

> Bob

>

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