John Rodgers on fri 7 mar 03
Theresa, my experience with Chrome Tin Red is that it works best as a
very slow fire with a very slow cool down. Also, spray rather than didp,
and when spraying apply 5 full covering coats of glaze. I found it to
work best on white stoneware. It may do well on porcelain as well.
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
theresa sandin wrote:
>Speaking of June's glazes that she so kindly put on her website...
>
>I have tried the Chrome red on the far right top tile of glaze group 4, and it comes out sub-optimal.
>http://www.delerstuteri.com/grafik/shambhala_red.jpg
>Honestly I get a puke coloured speckled pink with beige in it. I have so far figured out that my kiln fires on the cool side of ^6, since the eminent ^6 Rutile Blue from the list becomes "a dull beige" just like in the description for too low temperature.
>
>June, is the red sensitive to insufficient heat? I used a buff stoneware clay, but have now switched to a white stoneware clay. Can that have something to do with it? I love the example on your tile, and now look at mine! Have you any tips? Too thick? Porcelain body? More chrome? Oxide or carbonate?
>
>Regards, Theresa
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
theresa sandin on fri 7 mar 03
Speaking of June's glazes that she so kindly put on her website...
I have tried the Chrome red on the far right top tile of glaze group 4, and it comes out sub-optimal.
http://www.delerstuteri.com/grafik/shambhala_red.jpg
Honestly I get a puke coloured speckled pink with beige in it. I have so far figured out that my kiln fires on the cool side of ^6, since the eminent ^6 Rutile Blue from the list becomes "a dull beige" just like in the description for too low temperature.
June, is the red sensitive to insufficient heat? I used a buff stoneware clay, but have now switched to a white stoneware clay. Can that have something to do with it? I love the example on your tile, and now look at mine! Have you any tips? Too thick? Porcelain body? More chrome? Oxide or carbonate?
Regards, Theresa
Ababi on sat 8 mar 03
Hello Theresa!
I did not succeed with Lana Wilson's red the way was written in June's site, but you
must know two things:
1) These glazes chrome tin must applied thick
20 Test it on several claybodies. You used it on a buff clay, it is possible that some of
the iron migrant into the glaze.
This is the glaze I know, I must use ( my students too) with totally clean brush -any
touch of another color/materials will change it into green.
Did you sieve the glaze?
You might loose some of the 0.15% of the chrome in the sieving too.
About the rutile I cannot help. I think it is for reduction,
beyond my knowledge.
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
http://www.israel-ceramics.org/membersGallery/personalpage.asp?MID=507
---------- Original Message ----------
>Speaking of June's glazes that she so kindly put on her website...
>I have tried the Chrome red on the far right top tile of glaze group 4, and it comes out
sub-optimal.
>http://www.delerstuteri.com/grafik/shambhala_red.jpg
>Honestly I get a puke coloured speckled pink with beige in it. I have so far figured out
that my kiln fires
>on the cool side of ^6, since the eminent ^6 Rutile Blue from the list becomes "a dull
beige" just like in
>the description for too low temperature
>.
>June, is the red sensitive to insufficient heat? I used a buff stoneware clay, but have
now switched to a
>white stoneware clay. Can that have something to do with it? I love the example on
your tile, and now
>look at mine! Have you any tips? Too thick? Po
>rcelain body? More chrome? Oxide or carbonate?
>Regards, Theresa
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
John Rodgers on sat 8 mar 03
One more thing!!! Don't fire it with other glazes in the kiln. You will
contaminate the other glazes and/or contaminate the chrome tin red and
consequentyly fail to get the results you want.
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
John Rodgers wrote:
> Theresa, my experience with Chrome Tin Red is that it works best as a
> very slow fire with a very slow cool down. Also, spray rather than didp,
> and when spraying apply 5 full covering coats of glaze. I found it to
> work best on white stoneware. It may do well on porcelain as well.
>
> John Rodgers
> Birmingham, AL
>
> theresa sandin wrote:
>
>> Speaking of June's glazes that she so kindly put on her website...
>>
>> I have tried the Chrome red on the far right top tile of glaze group
>> 4, and it comes out sub-optimal.
>> http://www.delerstuteri.com/grafik/shambhala_red.jpg
>> Honestly I get a puke coloured speckled pink with beige in it. I have
>> so far figured out that my kiln fires on the cool side of ^6, since
>> the eminent ^6 Rutile Blue from the list becomes "a dull beige" just
>> like in the description for too low temperature.
>>
>> June, is the red sensitive to insufficient heat? I used a buff
>> stoneware clay, but have now switched to a white stoneware clay. Can
>> that have something to do with it? I love the example on your tile,
>> and now look at mine! Have you any tips? Too thick? Porcelain body?
>> More chrome? Oxide or carbonate?
>>
>> Regards, Theresa
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________________________
>>
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
theresa sandin on sun 9 mar 03
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--=_NextPart_Lycos_0016131047203184_ID
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>One more thing!!! Don't fire it with other glazes in the kiln. You will
>contaminate the other glazes and/or contaminate the chrome tin red and
>consequentyly fail to get the results you want.
;-) Yes, I've noticed that! I tried to put white lining inside my red cups. Gah!
Thank you
Theresa
--=_NextPart_Lycos_0016131047203184_ID--
June Perry on mon 10 mar 03
Dear Theresa,
I forgot to mention, that the buff clay should not inhibit the development of
the chrome/tin red. I know someone who fires a C10 chrome/tin red on a very
high iron bearing body (the body color is a terra cotta red when fired) and
the glaze is wonderful. The iron in the body may quiet the color a bit, but
from what I can see, it shouldn't inhibit red color development.
Try the thicker, dip application both for the red and the rutile glaze.
Rutile glazes can go beigy/yellow when too thin or in the case of reduction
glazes, when they are under reduced.
Regards,
June Perry
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/
June Perry on mon 10 mar 03
Theresa,
I fired those tests in a tiny Axner test kiln with a slow firing and firing
down, done with just manually adjusting the knobs (no digital controls on
that little kiln).
The tile was dipped. Usually, I try to do at least two dips on a test tile.
The first dip to the bottom, second dip to the middle and sometimes I even do
a third dip on the upper third. This gives you a very good idea of the color
change if any, glaze coverage, color intensity, etc.
In general for C6 oxidation glazes it's a good idea to take things slowly and
do that slow cool. I think that there have been so recent postings on these
slower firings and they should be in the archives.
Also, most of those glaze tests were fired to a large cone 6. I put a cone 8
bar cone in the kiln sitter and fire to the large cone 6 touching down. The
sitter doesn't click off and then I can fire down using the manual controls
on the test kiln. I'm pretty loose about this part -- just playing it by
feel. My larger kiln has the digital controls, so I'll be able to program in
a set schedule; but lately I've been focused on making tests and a few pots
for a soda firing that we'll be unloading today.
You might also want to check your work sheets for the tests to make sure you
added the right amount of colorants. Also, I always make my test batches at
least 200 grams, which is what I was taught by my teacher Vivika Heino.
There's less chance for weighing error, particularly in a glaze like
chrome/tin reds where the colorant is in such a small amount. Plus, in at
least a 200 gram batch you have enough leftover for other tests and for wet
mixing with other glazes to get more tests, which is always fun.
Hope this helps!
Warm regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/
| |
|
