Garry Wakely on tue 11 feb 03
Hi All,
I have been using the recipe for Peacock blue that Alisa from Denmark posted
to the group back in October of 2001, with little success. I have either
gotten a bland grey/blue or the worlds ugliest green/brown glaze imaginable.
I am firing to cone 6 ox.
Alisa's revised recipe is as follows:
Firing ramp:
100c (212f) per hour to 600c (1112f)
150c (302f) per hour to 1100c (2012f)
100c per hour to 1220c (2228f)
15 - 30 minute soak depending on matts and glosses used.
Revised Recipe:
40 Feldshammer Feldspar
15 Ball Clay
12 Silica
18 Wollastonite
15 Zinc ox.
>ADD
10 Titanium co.
1 Cobalt ox.
1 Copper ox.
Trial one I used Custer Feldspar as I do not have Feldshammer Feldspar, and
I used titanium dioxide, and I am not sure what Titanium co is (any ideas?
carbonate???). I used Tennessee ball clay in the recipe. The result was a
very stable, but very muddy turquoise with darker blue speckling.
Trial two I used potash feldspar, changed the titanium to rutile and added a
1g of chrome for some extra green. This resulted in the ugliest dark olive
green/gray that the world has ever seen.
What I am trying to do is get a glaze that has a dark blue, semi-opaque
background with either flecks or rivulets of green and brown for interest.
I have searched through the Clayart Archive for anything that matches what I
am looking for, and this Peacock blue sounds like it is the closest thing,
if I can get it to work.
Has anyone managed to get Peacock Blue to work well for them? If so, how
did you do it, if you don't mind sharing. Also, if I am barking up the
wrong tree with this recipe, are there suggestions of other recipes that I
may try that people are willing to share?
Thanks very much!
Garry Wakely
_________________________________________________________________
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Charles Moore on tue 11 feb 03
Hi, Garry,
Since Alisa's Feldshammer Feldspar is a local Danish spar, it would be
helpful if we could get an analysis of that spar since it is not available
in the US, as far as I know. With an analysis, we might be able to
re-calculate the recipe.
I believe that, right at the moment, Alisa is visiting her family in New
Jersey, but should return to Denmark in about a week. You might contact her
then via a Clayart post.
Charles
Sacramento
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry Wakely"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 1:44 PM
Subject: Peacock Blue - Help
> Hi All,
>
> I have been using the recipe for Peacock blue that Alisa from Denmark
posted
> to the group back in October of 2001, with little success. I have either
> gotten a bland grey/blue or the worlds ugliest green/brown glaze
imaginable.
> I am firing to cone 6 ox.
>
> Alisa's revised recipe is as follows:
>
> Firing ramp:
> 100c (212f) per hour to 600c (1112f)
> 150c (302f) per hour to 1100c (2012f)
> 100c per hour to 1220c (2228f)
> 15 - 30 minute soak depending on matts and glosses used.
>
> Revised Recipe:
> 40 Feldshammer Feldspar
> 15 Ball Clay
> 12 Silica
> 18 Wollastonite
> 15 Zinc ox.
>
> >ADD
> 10 Titanium co.
> 1 Cobalt ox.
> 1 Copper ox.
>
>
> Trial one I used Custer Feldspar as I do not have Feldshammer Feldspar,
and
> I used titanium dioxide, and I am not sure what Titanium co is (any ideas?
> carbonate???). I used Tennessee ball clay in the recipe. The result was
a
> very stable, but very muddy turquoise with darker blue speckling.
>
> Trial two I used potash feldspar, changed the titanium to rutile and added
a
> 1g of chrome for some extra green. This resulted in the ugliest dark olive
> green/gray that the world has ever seen.
>
> What I am trying to do is get a glaze that has a dark blue, semi-opaque
> background with either flecks or rivulets of green and brown for interest.
> I have searched through the Clayart Archive for anything that matches what
I
> am looking for, and this Peacock blue sounds like it is the closest thing,
> if I can get it to work.
>
> Has anyone managed to get Peacock Blue to work well for them? If so, how
> did you do it, if you don't mind sharing. Also, if I am barking up the
> wrong tree with this recipe, are there suggestions of other recipes that I
> may try that people are willing to share?
>
> Thanks very much!
>
>
> Garry Wakely
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Lorraine Pierce on tue 11 feb 03
Hi Gary, I never had that recipe turn out other than a satin smooth greyed
pale soft blue with greenish undertones...I thought it beautiful but I never
got the peacock colors or feathering I had heard described on the list. I
fired on a porcelain body to ^6. If ugly brown-green I would say it was
applied too thinly. Lori Pierce in New Port Richey, Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry Wakely"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 4:44 PM
Subject: Peacock Blue - Help
> Hi All,
>
> I have been using the recipe for Peacock blue that Alisa from Denmark
posted
> to the group back in October of 2001, with little success. I have either
> gotten a bland grey/blue or the worlds ugliest green/brown glaze
imaginable.
> I am firing to cone 6 ox.
>
> Alisa's revised recipe is as follows:
>
> Firing ramp:
> 100c (212f) per hour to 600c (1112f)
> 150c (302f) per hour to 1100c (2012f)
> 100c per hour to 1220c (2228f)
> 15 - 30 minute soak depending on matts and glosses used.
>
> Revised Recipe:
> 40 Feldshammer Feldspar
> 15 Ball Clay
> 12 Silica
> 18 Wollastonite
> 15 Zinc ox.
>
> >ADD
> 10 Titanium co.
> 1 Cobalt ox.
> 1 Copper ox.
>
>
> Trial one I used Custer Feldspar as I do not have Feldshammer Feldspar,
and
> I used titanium dioxide, and I am not sure what Titanium co is (any ideas?
> carbonate???). I used Tennessee ball clay in the recipe. The result was
a
> very stable, but very muddy turquoise with darker blue speckling.
>
> Trial two I used potash feldspar, changed the titanium to rutile and added
a
> 1g of chrome for some extra green. This resulted in the ugliest dark olive
> green/gray that the world has ever seen.
>
> What I am trying to do is get a glaze that has a dark blue, semi-opaque
> background with either flecks or rivulets of green and brown for interest.
> I have searched through the Clayart Archive for anything that matches what
I
> am looking for, and this Peacock blue sounds like it is the closest thing,
> if I can get it to work.
>
> Has anyone managed to get Peacock Blue to work well for them? If so, how
> did you do it, if you don't mind sharing. Also, if I am barking up the
> wrong tree with this recipe, are there suggestions of other recipes that I
> may try that people are willing to share?
>
> Thanks very much!
>
>
> Garry Wakely
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Carol Tripp on wed 12 feb 03
Hands up if you too tried this glaze, seduced by the name. And hands up if
you too got nothing that remotely resembled a peacock's blue. This is a
glaze that no one but the originator, Carenza Hayhoe, ever got to look like
a peacock. This glaze has been tried by lots of us in lots of places with
lots of variations in materials and we all get the glaze you describe! But
we don't get peacock blue. And we got pinholes.
For what it is worth, Carenza's original post was:
40 potash feldspar
15 HVAR ball clay
20 quartz
15 whiting
10 zinc oxide
10% titanium dioxide
0.75% cobalt oxide
1% copper oxide
She mentions that she fires at 150C/hour to 1190 with a 30 minute soak and
she uses a white stoneware body. All clay and materials are UK origin.
Ababi Sharon worked on Peacock - perhaps he will add something.
Good luck,
Carol
Dubai, UAE
Garry wrote:>
>I have been using the recipe for Peacock blue that Alisa from Denmark
>posted
>to the group back in October of 2001, with little success. I have either
>gotten a bland grey/blue or the worlds ugliest green/brown glaze
>imaginable.
> I am firing to cone 6 ox.
>
>Alisa's revised recipe is as follows:
>
>Firing ramp:
>100c (212f) per hour to 600c (1112f)
>150c (302f) per hour to 1100c (2012f)
>100c per hour to 1220c (2228f)
>15 - 30 minute soak depending on matts and glosses used.
>
>Revised Recipe:
>40 Feldshammer Feldspar
>15 Ball Clay
>12 Silica
>18 Wollastonite
>15 Zinc ox.
>
>>ADD
>10 Titanium co.
>1 Cobalt ox.
>1 Copper ox.
>
>
>Trial one I used Custer Feldspar as I do not have Feldshammer Feldspar, and
>I used titanium dioxide, and I am not sure what Titanium co is (any ideas?
>carbonate???). I used Tennessee ball clay in the recipe. The result was a
>very stable, but very muddy turquoise with darker blue speckling.
>
>Trial two I used potash feldspar, changed the titanium to rutile and added
>a
>1g of chrome for some extra green. This resulted in the ugliest dark olive
>green/gray that the world has ever seen.
>
>What I am trying to do is get a glaze that has a dark blue, semi-opaque
>background with either flecks or rivulets of green and brown for interest.
>I have searched through the Clayart Archive for anything that matches what
>I
>am looking for, and this Peacock blue sounds like it is the closest thing,
>if I can get it to work.
>
>Has anyone managed to get Peacock Blue to work well for them? If so, how
>did you do it, if you don't mind sharing. Also, if I am barking up the
>wrong tree with this recipe, are there suggestions of other recipes that I
>may try that people are willing to share?
>
>Thanks very much!
>
>
>Garry Wakely
>
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
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Ababi on wed 12 feb 03
I would go back to the original recipe
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?A2=ind9909&L=CLAYART&P=R2718
Carenza Hayhoe offers his recipe
Potash feldspar 40
HVAR ball clay 15
Quartz 20
Whiting 15
Zinc oxide 10
Titanium dioxide 10%
Cobalt oxide 0.75%
Copper oxide 1%
His potash feldspar probably like mine, similar to yours G - 200
I tested this glaze and failed like you.
Make a line bland
remove in each test 1% of the titanium and you will find the right way. I belive around
the 2% to none titanium.
http://www.wellbelovedgallery.co.uk/images/4_pieces_peacock.JPG
Ababi
---------- Original Message ----------
>Hi All,
>I have been using the recipe for Peacock blue that Alisa from Denmark posted
>to the group back in October of 2001, with little success. I have either
>gotten a bland grey/blue or the worlds ugliest green/brown glaze imaginable.
> I am firing to cone 6 ox.
>Alisa's revised recipe is as follows:
>Firing ramp:
>100c (212f) per hour to 600c (1112f)
>150c (302f) per hour to 1100c (2012f)
>100c per hour to 1220c (2228f)
>15 - 30 minute soak depending on matts and glosses used.
>Revised Recipe:
>40 Feldshammer Feldspar
>15 Ball Clay
>12 Silica
>18 Wollastonite
>15 Zinc ox.
>>ADD
>10 Titanium co.
>1 Cobalt ox.
>1 Copper ox.
>Trial one I used Custer Feldspar as I do not have Feldshammer Feldspar, and
>I used titanium dioxide, and I am not sure what Titanium co is (any ideas?
>carbonate???). I used Tennessee ball clay in the recipe. The result was a
>very stable, but very muddy turquoise with darker blue speckling.
>Trial two I used potash feldspar, changed the titanium to rutile and added a
>1g of chrome for some extra green. This resulted in the ugliest dark olive
>green/gray that the world has ever seen.
>What I am trying to do is get a glaze that has a dark blue, semi-opaque
>background with either flecks or rivulets of green and brown for interest.
>I have searched through the Clayart Archive for anything that matches what I
>am looking for, and this Peacock blue sounds like it is the closest thing,
>if I can get it to work.
>Has anyone managed to get Peacock Blue to work well for them? If so, how
>did you do it, if you don't mind sharing. Also, if I am barking up the
>wrong tree with this recipe, are there suggestions of other recipes that I
>may try that people are willing to share?
>Thanks very much!
>Garry Wakely
>_________________________________________________________________
>STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Marianne Lombardo on wed 12 feb 03
Here is a copy of the analysis that Alisa sent to me of her Feldspar:
The following is the analysis for the frit here they call both 623 and 169.
Johnson Matthey Public Limited Company
England
Analysis:
SiO2 35.32
Al2O3 0.48
Ba2O3 28.46
ZnO 5.86
TiO2 0.02
SrO 0.15
CaO 2.45
MgO 0.01
Na2O 19.28
BaO 7.60
Fe2O3 0.12
Others 0.18
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
>
> Since Alisa's Feldshammer Feldspar is a local Danish spar, it would be
> helpful if we could get an analysis of that spar since it is not available
> in the US, as far as I know. With an analysis, we might be able to
> re-calculate the recipe.
>
Paul Lewing on thu 13 feb 03
My suspicion about why so many people say this glaze comes out kind of muddy
color was confirmed today when someone posted an analysis of it. They said
it had .12 molecular equivalents of Fe2O3, and I'm sure that's it. That's
all coming from the ball clay. Have any of you tried this using a kaolin
instead? To get the same result without the iron, you'd have to do it on a
molecular level, but just doing a straight-across substitution would
probably be close enough to the chemistry, and would undoubtedly tell you if
it made a less muddy color.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Ababi on fri 14 feb 03
Hello Paul
I don't think so
After all the original recipe calls for ball clay, This ball clay has 0.9% iron
http://www.digitalfire.com/material/m-0161i1.htm
The recipe again
Potash feldspar 40
HVAR ball clay 15
Quartz 20
Whiting 15
Zinc oxide 10
Titanium dioxide 10%
Cobalt oxide 0.75%
Copper oxide 1%
I tested and re tested this glaze
I tested it with my favorite Koern27 too. With the strontium version instead of barium,
you Paul, have a similar base too as I remember . You can try it by adding the colorant
oxides to your base without the titanium, it gives wonderful blue to a ^6 zinc glaze.
The titanium in this amount as in this recipe will change the color of the cobalt and
the copper ( At least in my kiln)
Ababi Seeing you around this month on the calender!
---------- Original Message ----------
>My suspicion about why so many people say this glaze comes out kind of muddy
>color was confirmed today when someone posted an analysis of it. They said
>it had .12 molecular equivalents of Fe2O3, and I'm sure that's it. That's
>all coming from the ball clay. Have any of you tried this using a kaolin
>instead? To get the same result without the iron, you'd have to do it on a
>molecular level, but just doing a straight-across substitution would
>probably be close enough to the chemistry, and would undoubtedly tell you if
>it made a less muddy color.
>Paul Lewing, Seattle
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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