Philip Poburka on mon 25 nov 02
Yes....'america' has quite lost the abilities to produce
simple earnest things as, a length of 'Stove-Pipe' without
it costing more than the people who made it are themselves
in any way 'worth'...
But...anyway, digressions aside...for now...one possibility
is to visit places as sell the 'triple-wall'...and...see
what they have as had become dented and make them a 'cash'
One may seek the sympathetic eye of some employee as has
insight and interest in such matters, or who may construe
'dents' as they see fit to do.
One may...or not, as one see fit.
Also, check the noose-papers in the classified section under
'Building Materials', or under 'Stoves and Heating' and see
if you might notice some used pipe for sale...also
Commercial Buildings as are getting torn down or
remodelled...or also check with they as do the salvage or
demolition of such.
One can make their own too, as, to have three Pipes, each
inside the other, with about an inch or what between them,
and it may or may not satisfy some inspector's notion of
As the 'triple-wall' need only be immediately where the pipe
go through the Roof, or as well, approximate to the cieling
rafters...the amount would vary with the occasions of it's
passing near Combustible elements of the Structure.
Too...what exactly say the 'code'?
Does it say it must be 'triple-wall'? Or merely that it must
have some level of rating as to the heat it lets pass?
Find out...there may be other ways...to skin the Cat...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland G. Hall"
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: studio question,heating
Brian, you might check prices/availiability of a double
walled stove pipe
called "AMERAVENT". Years ago it was cheaper than
Metalbestos, and met
code here in Oregon. I haven't looked into it for a long
time, so this
info is rather dated. I remember that Ameravent was said to
burn cooler as
well. Good luck. I personally doubt than you can build a
walled stove pipe that will meet code, but worth looking
into I suppose.
Before The Wheel Enterprises
La Pine, OR, USA
On Sun, 24 Nov 2002 23:49:03 -0800, Brian O'Neill
>Ok all you "wood burners"--a question...
>I was given a wood stove (meets code for Washington state)
and was looking
>to a toasty dry studio, until I started pricing the
stovepipe! If I want to
>install "to code" which I do since I'm insuring the barn
the studio is in,
>looking at $180 per 2 ft section of 8" double walled pipe.
>brand name, and I'm not finding any cheaper alternatives.
Codes are quite
>here in Washington, and to be "legal" I'm looking at close
to $1600 for
>and all the requisite parts! I have a very tall barn.
>Does anyone know of a less expensive brand? or--has anyone
>own insulated pipe and the cost of having a "home made"
>Thanks in advance!
>can I get enough down from six chickens to make a decent
>Mary O'Connell wrote:
>> Hey Guys,
>> I just put in a Jotul 602 woodburning stove in my garage
>> over the large car doors with thick styrofoam sheets and
>> with fiberglass batting and covered them with sheetrock
>> have not updated the door out the side or back so I am
still getting some
>> fresh air and the window leaks quite a bit. However, I
am staying toasty
>> warm thanks to my friend who has lots of wooded acreage
and a gas powered
>> log splitter. My only expense was the stove and the
special chimney pipe
>> out the roof of the garage. I also love the smell of
wood burning being
>> pyro I am and it gives me an extra added feeling of
warmth to see the
>> inside the glass door of the stove. There is a steel
cookplate on the
>> for warming things like tea and hot dogs and beans for my
>> counterparts (children). Jotul has a website, I used the
>> engine to find it.
>> Good luck with it all.
>> Mary O'Connell
>> The Geneva Potter
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Working Potter
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 10:05 PM
>> Subject: Re: studio question,heating
>> > Dear Ilene,
>> > We have used ''kerosene'' or the verrsion now
>> > called number #1 heating oil, marked as such by a color
>> > expensive in the last couple years that we are redoing
>> > up] solutions and have been advised to get a propane
systrm by the
>> > supplier.In the meantime, cutting a cubbie around the
>> > insulating it and using heating[electric wrap cables]
>> > water and select containers, we will limit the use of
fuel and power to
>> > necessary usage.If you have windows, use the plastic
>> > on the inside following box directions and caulk cracks
using the best
>> > choice locally available at the hardware store for the
rest and around
>> > and elsewhere as needed.Wear layers of clothing, a
warm hat and
>> > wool blend sox and use a ceramic ''cool to touch''
>> > safety tip over feature for limited time use.Have a
smoke and flame
>> > and carbon monoxide detector in proper working order.
>> > water is nice ,too.
>> > Misty
>> > ..In a message dated 11/20/2002 10:29:08 PM Eastern
>> > >
>> > > I was wondering for those of us who are in cold
climates, what type
>> > > heat people are using in their studios? I am just
>> > > my studio and now the issue of how to heat it needs
>> > > have an oil painter friend who suggested kerosene
heat, however I am
>> > > curious what others are using.
>> > >
>> > > Ilene
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
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>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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You may look at the archives for the list or change your
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at