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nerikomi/inlay book, article, workshop? help!

updated wed 13 nov 02

 

Ms Noel on sun 10 nov 02


Vince should be able to answer this!

But if you can get ahold of a very old book:
The Penland School of Crafts, Book of Pottery.
Edited by John Coyne, 1975
There is a great chapter by Jane Peiser that explains the millefiore method
quite clearly. It is not the same as nerikomi, but the 'loaf' is explained.
Also, the sanding to get clean lines.
There was an article recently (couple of years?) in CM or Clay Times about a
nerikomi artist that you might be able to research.
Altho' you don't sound like a real newbee, the book:
Two Books In One - Ceramics, by Steve Mattison,
has been very well received by my beginner students. Easy to read, easy to
try techniques and projects. Beginning ideas to get them started in
understanding clay.
Get Muddy
Noel Gilliam
Noel's Lace Clay
Canton, GA where the weather is supposed to turn bad tonight.
After going thru' AL and TN

From: "Wendy Peck"
To:
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 8:25 PM
Subject: Nerikomi/Inlay book, article, workshop? Help!


> Hi,
>
> I have done my homework well, searching the archives and the Web in
general
> for a book or other instruction for colored clay inlay work. There are
> plenty of examples of completed work, and I understand the concept from a
> short foray into Polymer clay a few years back. But I have found no "how
to"
> articles, or mention of it in the books I have seen. Of course, it is hard
> to tell what might be in a book when you cannot flip through it. Perhaps
> someone out there knows of a chapter in a book on this technique. I would
> gladly buy a book to get even a chapter on this method.
>
> I tried a couple of pots on my own, and although I managed to get them
> together, my success was because I was chicken enough to put a thick solid
> color border around the entire loaf I created. That brings me to my most
> pressing question: How do you join the slices when you are making your
form.
> (I am not talking about laminated slices that go onto a backing, but
slices
> joined into a form with the color the same on the inside and outside.)
>
> The way I learned to join clay pieces involves scoring, moistening with
> water or slip and then smooshing the clay back and forth a bit between the
> two sides of the join to create a unified piece. I tried just scoring the
> joining edges, moistening and pressing them together, but the slices
wanted
> to separate. Should I be using vinegar? Is there another product that
would
> work? Maybe I have to hold them together for a while? There has to be a
way,
> because most of the examples I saw had crisp, clean joins between wildly
> different colors.
>
> Please note: I am very new to working with clay, so even something very
> obvious to a more experienced potter may be the answer. Don't hold back on
> basics that "every potter should know" if something comes to mind.
>
> So ... does anyone know where I can find some practical information on
> joining inlaid pieces? Does anyone have an answer for my most pressing
> problem ... joining the slices? Books, articles, workshops ... all
> suggestions welcomed.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Wendy
>
>
> Wendy Peck http://wpeck.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Carol Ross on sun 10 nov 02


Wendy, I haven't worked with inlay, but I have done quite a bit of
hand-building. I hope this will help - I'm sure that everyone has her/his
own personal preferences for joining, but these are mine.

I like to work with nearly leather-hard slabs. Mitering the edges is easier
when the clay is stiffer. Score the 45 degree angled edge (assuming you're
making right angles) and generously apply slip (use dry clay scraps and mix
with water) - good adhesion requires more than just moistening. By scoring,
you're allowing the slip to really penetrate the clay, making the join
permanent. Vinegar isn't necessary, but if I have a problem edge, I'll use
vinegar to secure it. Then I put the edges together carefully - sliding
very slightly can help. Then I lightly tap the edges with a wooden tool.
Like everything else, it takes practice! Try not to overwork the clay -
come back in after the corners have "set" to clean them up gently with a
tool.

Good luck!
Carol


> Hi,
>
> I have done my homework well, searching the archives and the Web in general
> for a book or other instruction for colored clay inlay work. There are
> plenty of examples of completed work, and I understand the concept from a
> short foray into Polymer clay a few years back. But I have found no "how to"
> articles, or mention of it in the books I have seen. Of course, it is hard
> to tell what might be in a book when you cannot flip through it. Perhaps
> someone out there knows of a chapter in a book on this technique. I would
> gladly buy a book to get even a chapter on this method.
>
> I tried a couple of pots on my own, and although I managed to get them
> together, my success was because I was chicken enough to put a thick solid
> color border around the entire loaf I created. That brings me to my most
> pressing question: How do you join the slices when you are making your form.
> (I am not talking about laminated slices that go onto a backing, but slices
> joined into a form with the color the same on the inside and outside.)
>
> The way I learned to join clay pieces involves scoring, moistening with
> water or slip and then smooshing the clay back and forth a bit between the
> two sides of the join to create a unified piece. I tried just scoring the
> joining edges, moistening and pressing them together, but the slices wanted
> to separate. Should I be using vinegar? Is there another product that would
> work? Maybe I have to hold them together for a while? There has to be a way,
> because most of the examples I saw had crisp, clean joins between wildly
> different colors.
>
> Please note: I am very new to working with clay, so even something very
> obvious to a more experienced potter may be the answer. Don't hold back on
> basics that "every potter should know" if something comes to mind.
>
> So ... does anyone know where I can find some practical information on
> joining inlaid pieces? Does anyone have an answer for my most pressing
> problem ... joining the slices? Books, articles, workshops ... all
> suggestions welcomed.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Wendy
>
>
> Wendy Peck http://wpeck.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.

Wendy Peck on sun 10 nov 02


Hi,

I have done my homework well, searching the archives and the Web in general
for a book or other instruction for colored clay inlay work. There are
plenty of examples of completed work, and I understand the concept from a
short foray into Polymer clay a few years back. But I have found no "how to"
articles, or mention of it in the books I have seen. Of course, it is hard
to tell what might be in a book when you cannot flip through it. Perhaps
someone out there knows of a chapter in a book on this technique. I would
gladly buy a book to get even a chapter on this method.

I tried a couple of pots on my own, and although I managed to get them
together, my success was because I was chicken enough to put a thick solid
color border around the entire loaf I created. That brings me to my most
pressing question: How do you join the slices when you are making your form.
(I am not talking about laminated slices that go onto a backing, but slices
joined into a form with the color the same on the inside and outside.)

The way I learned to join clay pieces involves scoring, moistening with
water or slip and then smooshing the clay back and forth a bit between the
two sides of the join to create a unified piece. I tried just scoring the
joining edges, moistening and pressing them together, but the slices wanted
to separate. Should I be using vinegar? Is there another product that would
work? Maybe I have to hold them together for a while? There has to be a way,
because most of the examples I saw had crisp, clean joins between wildly
different colors.

Please note: I am very new to working with clay, so even something very
obvious to a more experienced potter may be the answer. Don't hold back on
basics that "every potter should know" if something comes to mind.

So ... does anyone know where I can find some practical information on
joining inlaid pieces? Does anyone have an answer for my most pressing
problem ... joining the slices? Books, articles, workshops ... all
suggestions welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

Wendy


Wendy Peck http://wpeck.com

vince pitelka on mon 11 nov 02


> Vince should be able to answer this!

I didn't answer this before, because I do not do nerikomi. I have the same
problem mentioned in the original post. I have never figured out the trick
to getting the individual clay murinni to hang together through drying and
high-firing. I expect to figure it out some day, but haven't so far.

I do a lamination method, where I cut very thin layers (less than 1/16") off
my patterned loaves, and laminate them onto slabs to be used to build
vessels, or else on to already constructed vessels.

I teach workshops in colored clays, emphasizing the loaf construction and
lamination methods. I will be teaching one at Grand Canyon University in
Phoenix in February, and one at Sierra Nevada College on Lake Tahoe in July.
My new website should be up in a week or so, and it will give access to all
the pertinent information.
Good luck with your nerikomi , and we will greatly appreciate it if you
share new information with us -
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/

Chris Campbell on tue 12 nov 02


To any who are interested -

I wrote a reply to Wendy, off list, with an offer to help her get
started with making colored clay and patterned murrini loaves.

I did not want to take up room on the general list for this. If anyone
else is interested in trying this technique through this winter, I will be
happy to copy you on the e-mails if you will send me your e-mail address.

I learned the basics about ten years ago and have been working with
colored clay daily ever since. My disclaimer here is that I am not a MFA, or
BFA or a certified teacher. I am someone who is learning every day from the
clay itself.

If you need intensely technical or chemical type help ... you are
definitely not going to get it here.... but I know who to refer you to.

Chris Campbell - in North Carolina - finally we are out of our draught,
straight into severe flooding !!

Chris Campbell Pottery, LLC
9417 Koupela Drive
Raleigh NC 27615-2233
e-mail : ccpottery@aol.com
website : www.wholesalecrafts.com

Helen Bates on tue 12 nov 02


Re: Nerikomi/Inlay book, article, workshop? Help!

Here is one link with lots of photos of the Neriage
technique, which is related I think to Nerikomi work.

The text is in Japanese, so you have to just absorb the visual
information in the photos.

Neriage
http://www.linkclub.or.jp/~chiropou/harituke/harituke.html

Susy Siegele and Michael Haley (Buzzard Mtn. AR, USA)
http://www.coloredclay.com/ (Click "Recently at Work")
http://www.mcm.edu/academic/depts/artdept/ceramics/activiti.htm
http://americanart.si.edu/collections/exhibits/whc/haley.html
http://www.bayfrontgallery.com/artists/buzzard.htm
http://www.boulderteahouse.com/sie.html

It seems from the photos on the sites cited here that the clay
used is very soft, and of course is very plastic as well. Pieces
may be wrapped in plastic to equalize moisture content and drying
and shrinkage rates as much as possible. A rolling pin is in
evidence, which will no doubt have an effect of squeezing the
edges against each other even more.

Somewhere I have a book that shows that the shapes are joined using
a coloured same clay slip, either matching one colour or contrasting
in a complementary way one or another of the pieces.

I am quite certain that a lot of time is needed between the initial
construction of the layers, the logs, the slab pieces, and the bisque
firing to assure full adherance of all parts to each other.

Also, I doubt that some of the fine work done by these and other artists
could be achieved by something as crude as scoring. Wet to wet joins
do not need scoring, and I think that is one of the secrets of success
for this type of pottery making.

For some other links (as well as those above) see my post to Clayart:
"Surfing with Helen - July 10, 2002":
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?S2=clayart&D=1&H=0&O=D&T=1&L=CLAYART&
q=&s=Surfing+with+Helen+-+July+10%2C+2002&f=nell%40&a=&b=

(Make sure this url is all in one line when you cut and paste it to your
browser location window, or paste it in any text editing software - even a
"new message" that you can delete afterwards - then cut or copy that and
paste it into the browser.)

If I run across the book with the information about using slip to join the
pieces, I'll post it's author, title and publishing information.

Helen
--

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