Lily Krakowski on wed 18 sep 02
For years I mixed clay bodies in tubs. Hard work, no problem. Several
books describe the process. The most important thing I remember is to
premix non plastic materials with the clay DRY.
I also remember reading someplace that Lucie Rie mixed her clay body in 5
gallon tubs. Have done that for small quantities of some special mixes.
HOWEVER: Mixing dry materials in bulk creates lots and lots of dangerous
dust.
A pugmill is great. But as far as I know it replaces preliminary wedging,
is all.
Evan Clifford writes:
> Can a claybody be mixed like a glaze or must a pugmill be used...
> Thanks in advance.
>
> -Evan
>
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Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Jon Faber on thu 19 sep 02
A little some thing to add to this.
But first... a short story.
I work for a production potter doing grunt work.
I make her clay in an old bread mixer 600 lbs dry at a
time.
The mixer broke. (Another story in and of itself)
We resorted to her clay mixing technique from 40 years
ago.
Bring a tub (looks kind of like a small metal bathtub)
outside.
Put on a dust mask.
Add 150 lbs dry materials.
Mix dry.
Add water.
Mix.
Important - you will be happiest if you can get all
the water you are going to use into the tub at once.
Obviously, this takes some practice to learn just how
much water you are going to need.
However, the reason is that the clay will turn into
little balls with dry ingredients on the inside.
The more water you have in there, the fewer dry balls
you get.
I suppose that you could mix into a slurry but we did
not.
I used a hoe for both the dry and wet mixing.
We I got tired of the wet mixing I would sit down and
wedge water into the dryer clay (sort of maria
martinez style - but by no means with as much
mastery).
When I achieved the desired consistencey I put it in
the clay barrel and moved onto the next bit of dry
clay.
Just because you are outside does not mean that you
are safe from the clay dust.
Put on a dust mask/resperator until the mix is wet and
you are no longer raising dust.
wearing a resperator sucks (especially on hot days)
but it is just too easy of a preventative measure to
not wear.
Another way to mix the clay with the water is to get a
bucket of water and put it near the mixing bin.
Take off your shoes and mix the clay.
When you are done clean your feet in the water you
brought over. - I suppose this step is optional but is
probably a good idea.
It is a good time. I would use this method after
mixing with the hoe. There is all the primitive and
uninty with the clay stuff as well. It is corny but
there is some truth.
Making your clay this way is hard work.
I was so sore the first time.
Got a big blister between my and finger that popped
before I knew it was there.
The second time - Got the exact same blister on the
other hand. I was not as sore afterwards though.
The third time all was well.
Like i said - it was hard work but I came to enjoy it
and look forward to it. - I was good work.
Luckily though - I did not have to do it to long.
So I can not speak to the experience after 10 batches.
good luck.
gotta bang out some work so that my boss (not the
potter) thinks he is paying me to do something.
jon
--- Lily Krakowski wrote:
> For years I mixed clay bodies in tubs. Hard work,
> no problem. Several
> books describe the process. The most important
> thing I remember is to
> premix non plastic materials with the clay DRY.
>
> I also remember reading someplace that Lucie Rie
> mixed her clay body in 5
> gallon tubs. Have done that for small quantities of
> some special mixes.
>
> HOWEVER: Mixing dry materials in bulk creates lots
> and lots of dangerous
> dust.
>
> A pugmill is great. But as far as I know it
> replaces preliminary wedging,
> is all.
>
>
>
> Evan Clifford writes:
>
> > Can a claybody be mixed like a glaze or must a
> pugmill be used...
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > -Evan
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> P.O. Box #1
> Constableville, N.Y.
> (315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
>
> Be of good courage....
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
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Lili Krakowski on fri 30 may 08
The problem is that this clay body produced what are called "lime pops".
These are real little monsters, showing up in the fired clay and popping out
a piece of the surface. I think everyone of us has encountered them once!
Then we learn!
Essentially what happens is that the "popper" has not been assimilated into
the clay body, it has formed a teensy lump, absorbed water from the air,
and, when satiated, expands and breaks the surface. Mine were from NephSy,
but talc or whiting will do it.
Low-fire talc clay
>
>Ball Clay 45.9
>Silica 200 (flint) 20.2
>Talc 12.2
>Whiting 6.1
>Gray Grog (20 mesh) 15.6
> 100.0
I am a bit suspicious of the grog. I have never seen nor heard of gray
grog--could it be somehow immature, so immature at 06 that it still is
absorbent (see above)
Anyway. When I was mixing only enough clay to make it all an even slurry,
and then add to the rest of the clay.
As I have "been there and done that" I would not recommend drying the clay
body out, grinding it and mixing anew. Not worth it.
Better luck next time.
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
Bill Merrill on fri 13 aug 10
There has been discussion about reclaiming scrap clay. I have a Randall
clay mixer, a Estrem mixer, a Venco Pug mill and a Walker pug Mill. I
do not use the Venco Pug mill as I really don't like pugged clay. I
just purchased a small Blue Bird stainless steel clay mixer. It will
only mix about 50 pounds of dry clay but it is super because it can be
used as soon as a small amount of scrap clay accumulates in the studio.
It Runs on 110 household current and does a good job . The other thing
with the mixer being small you can mix small batches of different clay
bodies without needing to mix large amounts of clay. It has been worth
the cost of the mixer. It is also easy to move.
=3D20
Bill
=3D20
=3D20
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