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low fire glazes and crazing - martin

updated mon 9 sep 02

 

Khaimraj Seepersad on sun 8 sep 02


Hello to All,
Martin,

the easiest solution for me was to alter the
claybody.However,remember I am just a
handbuilder,though a friend did test the
body for throwing and it worked,but was
thirsty.

As usual I used cullet and the body is ranged
for 06 to as low as 012 orton small cone.

Talc bodies have a habit of powdering after
months [ 60/40 Ball clay to Talc ],especially
if exposed to water.
Glazes will also crack up and fall off.

I would be happy to give you a few low firing
formulas,they contain B203 and need to be
tested,but they are clear.Ranging from 49.0
Si02 and going up.
However,I really don't know how you will
satisfy the frit section.

For low fire,a vitreous body is best,even if it
is glass induced bonding and not melted clays.
The glass in the body also increases the
interaction of glaze to surface of the ware.

The Chinese are supposed to be doing this.

Also if you intend to sell these wares for
functional use,more testing will be needed.
I will be unable to help you with cast ware as
cullet renders these bodies stone hard in the
aged,plastic state.Best if made as a fresh
product and better daily.

Sure you don't want to just go the Yixing way or
just make real Stoneware ?
I enjoy crushing coca-cola bottles and then corn
milling them down to flour sieve size, before ball
milling - most people don't.
Khaimraj
________________________

"But I would like to start making my own glazes for this range -- assuming I
can get enough materials here in Costa Rica to do it -- and I was wondering
whether I could adjust my claybody with more talc to perhaps help improve
the behavior of glazes I might make? I have no idea about how much more talc
to add, if any, which of the other ingredients to reduce, and whether this
would still be a ^04 bisquing claybody after the changes.

Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,Martin
Lagunas de Barú, Costa Rica
http://www.rice-family.org "