Llewellyn Kouba on thu 23 may 02
I was recently running a glaze application at cone 6 so decided to add more
pieces to the load by doing a small number of greenware items along with it
(economy etc). Now the problem of course comes in : The wares are now
tempted to high and they are no longer obsorbant. I hate to waste any of
the work and in one case a very large urn. I regret having done the
process in ways that are unorthodox. The glaze is extremely thin, wishy
washy and won't soak in. I was reminded that I had done this once before
and should have learned from my past mistakes. Is there anything I can do
short of tossing nice forms that have been overbaked in the bisque? I
suppose I should try and add some CMC? In any case the finished wares will
doubtfully not be nice.
Llewellyn
Jeremy McLeod on thu 23 may 02
Since these pieces are "bisqued too high" and non-absorbant,
I find myself wondering about experiments with either pit/smoke firing
or "cold finishes" like acrylic paints/etc. If it won't be what you set out
for it to be in the first place, take it in verrrry different directions and
see where it leads?
But then I'm an extrovert and this is just the way I go about life.
Jeremy McLeod
Celia Littlecreek on thu 23 may 02
----- Original Message ----- snipped
Is there anything I can do
short of tossing nice forms that have been overbaked in the bisque?
> Llewellyn
>
I did this very thing, but on purpose. I don't have a reduction kiln, and
wanted to make some very colorful pots to "go with" some very
"representational" paintings. The paintings had red, turquoise,
silver,gold,green,black, and lots of other bright colors. I made some very
simple pots, base coated them with auto paint primer, painted the pots in
abstract patterns, using the same colors as in the painting. Because the
pots are vitrified, they hold water which is very different from the Raku
that I normally do. Some of my customers want to put live flowers in their
pots, this was my solution.
william schran on fri 24 may 02
llewelyn - You can add just about any "gum" to the glaze to help
adherence to the non-absorbent clay surface. In a pinch I've even
added corn syrup. If you heat the ware prior to glaze application it
will help with quicker water evaporation, and thus drying of the
glaze. You'll also need to apply a few coats.
Bill
Leslie Ihde on fri 24 may 02
Things I have done:
Place pot in microwave, nuke, then glaze when pot is hot.
Spray with spray starch, when dry, spray on glazes and add layers after
each coat is dry.
Put pot on top of kiln which is firing. When the pot is hot, glaze.
Leslie Ihde
Michelle Lowe on fri 24 may 02
You can mix a bit of your glaze with some Elmer's glue, or karo syrup, to
thicken it up a bit for application to overfired bisque ware
-----------
Michelle Lowe potter in the Phoenix desert
http://www.desertdragonpottery.com
Mishy@desertdragonpottery.com
mishlowe@amug.org
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Gary Elfring on fri 24 may 02
Hello Llewellyn,
Thursday, May 23, 2002, 3:04:33 PM, you wrote:
LK> I was recently running a glaze application at cone 6 so decided to add
more
LK> pieces to the load by doing a small number of greenware items along with
it
LK> (economy etc). Now the problem of course comes in : The wares are now
LK> tempted to high and they are no longer obsorbant. I hate to waste any
of
LK> the work and in one case a very large urn. I regret having done the
LK> process in ways that are unorthodox. The glaze is extremely thin, wishy
LK> washy and won't soak in. I was reminded that I had done this once
before
LK> and should have learned from my past mistakes. Is there anything I can
do
LK> short of tossing nice forms that have been overbaked in the bisque? I
LK> suppose I should try and add some CMC? In any case the finished wares
will
LK> doubtfully not be nice.
It's fairly easy to fix this problem. I add new glaze and refire pieces that
have been glaze fired at cone 10 all the time.
You need to make a special batch of glaze for the bad bisque pieces.
Make up a thick batch of CMC in water. If your original glaze settles,
gather up some of the settled glaze that is too thick to use. (Or make
some new glaze this way, or spray lots of coats of the thin special
glaze.) Mix thick glaze with CMC in water.
You can spay numerous coats of this on top
of even a previously glazed piece. You have to let it dry in between
coats, which takes a while. If your bad bisque pieces still absorb
some water you want to glaze with a thick "CMC - glaze" mixture, not a
watery CMC plus old glaze. And let the pots *dry* before the glaze
firing, or candle for a while.
--
Best regards,
Gary mailto:info@elfring.com
kruzewski on fri 24 may 02
For what it's worth, I found heating the work up then dipping it in the
glaze
worked for me. The heat dries the glaze before it can run off. Has to be
fairly hot
to do this - about 50 + degrees centegrade I'd guess from memory, so you
need
asbestos fingers!
A kiln load of bisc got put on the wrong firing cycle at a pottery I worked
at (not
by me, I might add). The others wanted to toss the lot and start again,
saying that
spending the afternoon "hot" glazing was a waste - but in the end, they'd
have
wasted all the work and taken another one to two weeks to get the new stuff
to bisc
stage. I spent the afternoon heating up the work in a kiln, dipping it hot
and
swearing (mildly) a lot. The pottery was open to the public who found this
little
person in the background ouching and oohing highly amusing, particularly
when the
other staff explained why!
In the end it worked a treat and it was worth the glowing fingers.
Jacqui
North Wales
Llewellyn Kouba wrote:
> . Is there anything I can do
> short of tossing nice forms that have been overbaked in the bisque?
>
>
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