Valice Raffi on wed 1 may 02
Michelle,
I've used encaustic (Dorlands wax medium) as a final coat over fired
underglazes. I applied it, then gently heated it with a hair dryer on low
so that the wax would soak into the clay. Did that several times until I
was satisfied with the thickness, then buffed. I loved the look, but
stopped using it when the encaustic got "whitish" on one piece. I've been
using Bowling Alley wax for a year or so, and the pieces look the same as
when I first applied it.
Valice
in Sacramento
>Greetings..
>
>I'm a little nervous about asking this question for it is likely to bring
>all sorts of tacky images to mind..
>but I swear, it wouldn't be icky...really! (They ALL say that I bet..)
>Anyway, my point; Does anyone have experience working with encaustics and
>clay?
>Something I wish to make just begs for the texture and transparency of a
>small amount of encaustic medium/ wax. I am wondering if it will be
>permanent in a nonfunctional setting, am wondering if it will be more
>prone to the surface chipping off than encaustics on traditional
>substrates. I am intending to use this quite sparingly, not as a large
>field.
>If you have any previous experience with such a combo, I'd really like to
>hear about it..
>
>Thanks!
>
>Michelle Dziak
>Atlanta, GA
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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Michelle Dziak on wed 1 may 02
Greetings..=20
I'm a little nervous about asking this question for it is likely to =
bring all sorts of tacky images to mind..
but I swear, it wouldn't be icky...really! (They ALL say that I bet..)
Anyway, my point; Does anyone have experience working with encaustics =
and clay? =20
Something I wish to make just begs for the texture and transparency of a =
small amount of encaustic medium/ wax. I am wondering if it will be =
permanent in a nonfunctional setting, am wondering if it will be more =
prone to the surface chipping off than encaustics on traditional =
substrates. I am intending to use this quite sparingly, not as a large =
field.
If you have any previous experience with such a combo, I'd really like =
to hear about it..
Thanks!
Michelle Dziak
Atlanta, GA=20
Wanda Holmes on wed 1 may 02
Michelle, when you say encaustics, I think of inlaid designs of colored
clay. Tiles of this type were used extensively in the middle ages in Europe
and you can still see fine examples of these ancient tiles in situ. No
problem with durability. The technique was also popular in the 19th
century. The later examples are often polychrome, the ancient ones were
most often white clay inlaid in a red clay tile and glazed with lead. The
lead gives them a yellow and brown look. I was inspired by the 12th century
tiles in the Chapter House of Westminster Abbey and taught myself how to
reproduce them. I carve a design in my tile, then fill the indentation with
colored liquid slip. No need to be all that neat, just be sure to get the
indentation completely filled in. At the advanced leatherhard stage, I
scrap the tiles. That cleans up any overfil and brings out the design.
I use lowfire earthenware. If I intend to leave the tiles unglazed, I fire
to cone 1. If I intend to glaze them, I bisque to 04, glaze, and fire to
05.
Wanda
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Michelle Dziak
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 3:14 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: encaustics and clay
Greetings..
I'm a little nervous about asking this question for it is likely to bring
all sorts of tacky images to mind..
but I swear, it wouldn't be icky...really! (They ALL say that I bet..)
Anyway, my point; Does anyone have experience working with encaustics and
clay?
Something I wish to make just begs for the texture and transparency of a
small amount of encaustic medium/ wax. I am wondering if it will be
permanent in a nonfunctional setting, am wondering if it will be more prone
to the surface chipping off than encaustics on traditional substrates. I
am intending to use this quite sparingly, not as a large field.
If you have any previous experience with such a combo, I'd really like to
hear about it..
Thanks!
Michelle Dziak
Atlanta, GA
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Snail Scott on thu 2 may 02
At 09:25 PM 5/1/02 -0700, Valice wrote:
>I've used encaustic (Dorlands wax medium) as a final coat over fired
>underglazes...
I've done this too, but quit when a piece with a wax
coating had to be shipped to Phoenix in August. Wax
can remelt and get quite sticky. Eventually, the
volatiles evaporate and leave it pretty solid, but
depending on the wax, this can take a while. I never
want to worry about temperatures during shipping
again!
-Snail
Janet Kaiser on fri 3 may 02
I thought this would happen when I read the original post. Encaustic
in the clay world has quite a different meaning to what the poster
meant as "encaustic" i.e. using hot coloured wax as a method of
painting or in this case to decorate "clay".
Two very different kettles of fish and trust the English speaking
world to have one word to describe both.
Hot wax as decoration will make the ceramic purists shudder, but will
be as durable on biscuit-fired clay as on any other ground, such as
the more usual wood. I presume it was fired and not unfired clay,
although it was not quite clear from the way the question was
formulated.
Of course it will have the disadvantage of not being washable.
Although one would never dream of washing a painting, 3D work will
usually get the odd dunking, whether you would personally or not.
People like to be able to wash the accumulated grim and dirt off
ceramics without any ill affect. There are also all the added
provisos... Do not place in direct sunlight or near a heat source,
etc. If the artist is happy putting a non-durable decorative element
on an extremely durable item, it will be up to him/her how they inform
their customers of the disparity and how to treat it. If on the other
hand, it were wax onto plaster (for example), it would be more
acceptable in the eyes of the purist, as it would produce an item
which would have similar properties to the surface treatment.
Janet Kaiser - just knowing there will be howls of protest about my
take on this, but saying it anyway.
The Chapel of Art / Capel Celfyddyd
Home of The International Potters' Path
8 Marine Crescent : Criccieth : GB-Wales
URL: http://www.the-coa.org.uk
postbox@the-coa.org.uk
Sharon Pemberton on sun 5 may 02
Since encaustic work is done on both porous and nonporous surfaces, just try
it! Pottery surfaces can be warmed/heated with hot water or a hair dryer.
This will facilitate application. Cooling can be achieved by spraying water
or hair dryer on cool setting. I have only used wax on unglazed areas.
Sharon
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