Sheriee Dardis on thu 28 mar 02
Hello all!
Another naive question perhaps...I've been reading about shellac resist recently and can't seem to find answers to:
a) is the shellac formulated as for wood, ie. shellac flakes in denatured alcohol, or is there some magic to it?
and b) is the shellac color of consequence and does it (the color) have ANY effect on the porcelain finish?
Thanks in advance!
Sheriee
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CAROL SEIDMAN on thu 28 mar 02
Shelley: I've done this several times, it works out great. Take a bone dry
porcelain object, draw lightly with pencil the design you want raised. Use
ordinary shellac, varnish, etc, and brush it in the area to be raised. Let
it dry completely then take a damp sponge and "wash away" a layer of clay
where there is no varnish resist. Rinse the sponge often, and you will see
the design begin to pop-out. The shellac will burn out in the bisque firing.
Good luck. Carol Seidman
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Joyce Lee on thu 28 mar 02
Sherri asked about shellac resist......
When I use shellac resist I use whatever is on our shelves, or the =
cheapest that I can buy. I fire the pieces to ^10 reduction ..... no =
problem with color staining .... the shellac burns off. I like the more =
or less "organic"/ flowing appearance ..... as if the highs&lows just =
naturally occur ..... as compared to the sharper, more precise look of =
carved work. However, I do find shellac resist - at least, the way I do =
it -
to be time and patience consuming.... neither of which I have in ample =
supply.
Joyce =20
In the Mojave
Judith I. Marvin on thu 28 mar 02
Sheriee - I've been experimenting with same. Have used plain ole shellac
from from building supply store. Works fine. Thin lines in your design may
wash away if your go heavy handed. Try applying a slip over original clay
body, then shellac, then sponge away all slip. Raised design will be color
of slip. Good luck. I'm enjoying this a lot. Regards. Judith
>From: Sheriee Dardis
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: shellac resist
>Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 12:11:21 -0800
>
>Hello all!
>
>Another naive question perhaps...I've been reading about shellac resist
>recently and can't seem to find answers to:
>
> a) is the shellac formulated as for wood, ie. shellac flakes in denatured
>alcohol, or is there some magic to it?
>
>and b) is the shellac color of consequence and does it (the color) have ANY
>effect on the porcelain finish?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Sheriee
>
>
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
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>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
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>melpots@pclink.com.
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Marcia Selsor on thu 28 mar 02
Dear Carol and Shelley,
I use acrylic medium which avoids using the smelly resists and alcohal.
just liquitex medium.
works the same. My mug at the clayart exchange was done this way.
Marcia Selsor in Montana
CAROL SEIDMAN wrote:
> Shelley: I've done this several times, it works out great. Take a bone dry
> porcelain object, draw lightly with pencil the design you want raised. Use
> ordinary shellac, varnish, etc, and brush it in the area to be raised. Let
> it dry completely then take a damp sponge and "wash away" a layer of clay
> where there is no varnish resist. Rinse the sponge often, and you will see
> the design begin to pop-out. The shellac will burn out in the bisque firing.
> Good luck. Carol Seidman
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Gary Elfring on fri 29 mar 02
Hello Sheriee,
Thursday, March 28, 2002, 2:11:21 PM, you wrote:
SD> Hello all!
SD> Another naive question perhaps...I've been reading about shellac resist recently and can't seem to find answers to:
SD> a) is the shellac formulated as for wood, ie. shellac flakes in denatured alcohol, or is there some magic to it?
SD> and b) is the shellac color of consequence and does it (the color) have ANY effect on the porcelain finish?
I use it all the time. Any shellac works, and the cheaper the better.
(You are just going to burn it away.) I use an orange shellac, since
this can be easier to see than a clear one (and less expensive).
Draw your patterns (I like a graphite artists pencil) on leather hard
to bone dry porcelain. (This only works on grog-less clays.) Paint
your patterns with the shellac and wait 20 - 30 minutes for it to dry.
Then use a very damp sponge to wet down and rub off (very gently) some
clay. You can feel the edges of the shellaced areas raise up. You
don't need much of an edge to get good variations in a Celadon glaze.
If you rub away too much clay, you tend to undercut the shellac edge.
While I like the effect and the speed at which I can use shellac, I
find it doesn't compare to carving the same item. The effects aren't
exactly the same either. With carving you can get the appearance of
raised items, variable depth, etc, while the resist just gives you a
simple on/off pattern. But it does look nice and it is fast (assumming
you can paint ).
With a low temperature bisque I have seen pieces that have a dark
discoloration where the shellac was, on the bisque. This burns away
completely when you glaze fire. If you reach the right bisque
temperature, you will never know there was any shellac used.
--
Best regards,
Gary mailto:info@elfring.com
Michele Williams on sat 30 mar 02
Carol:
What a timesaver! Does this work on Terracotta?
Michele Williams (who doesn't even have time to
test--it has to work the first time)
Take a bone dry
> > porcelain object, draw lightly with pencil the
> design you want raised. Use
> > ordinary shellac, varnish, etc, and brush it in
> the area to be raised. Let
> > it dry completely then take a damp sponge and
> "wash away" a layer of clay
> > where there is no varnish resist. Rinse the sponge
> often, and you will see
> > the design begin to pop-out. The shellac will burn
> out in the bisque firing.
> > Good luck. Carol Seidman
> >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print
> your photos:
> > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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Sharon Pemberton on sun 31 mar 02
I have used shellac resist for many years for creating 3D designs. It
is one of the first projects I teach my beginning students. They make slips
in their second class when they make tiles. I use it on any leatherhard clay
body. If you use it on leatherhard surface, you can really remove quite a bit
of clay.
This also works with stencils although I start with clay that is a bit
wetter. This makes the stencil stick to the tile during the application. I
use 3 coats, allowing to dry between each coat.
The main variable in this is the sand/grog content of the clay body. I
like it on fairly smooth clay. The washing and scrubbing may leave a rough
surface.
Sharon in Dallas
Liz Willoughby on sun 31 mar 02
I mean't to respond to this post before, and Michele reminded me. I
used to use shellac resist quite often, and liked it primarily
because the raised design was not tight, but loose. This was because
as the surrounding clay was sponged away the shellac lines became a
little wavy. I have never been able to use brush work successfully
on my work, but using a brush with shellac seemed to free me from the
intimidations I always felt when I did attempt brush work. The
resultant lines with the shellac resist were never sharp and rigid,
which I liked. Similar to slip decorating, but not quite the same.
And yes Michele you can use this on any clay body, a smooth body is
best. My preference is to use it just before the bone dry state.
Still, at the moment, Meticulously loose Liz
p.s. shellac resist decoration make wonderful "gestural lines".
>Carol:
>
>What a timesaver! Does this work on Terracotta?
>
>Michele Williams (who doesn't even have time to
>test--it has to work the first time)
>
>
>Take a bone dry
> > > porcelain object, draw lightly with pencil the
> > design you want raised. Use
> > > ordinary shellac, varnish, etc, and brush it in
> > the area to be raised. Let
> > > it dry completely then take a damp sponge and
> > "wash away" a layer of clay
> > > where there is no varnish resist. Rinse the sponge
> > often, and you will see
> > > the design begin to pop-out. The shellac will burn
> > out in the bisque firing.
> > Good luck. Carol Seidman
Liz Willoughby
RR 1
2903 Shelter Valley Rd.
Grafton, On.
Canada
K0K 2G0
e-mail lizwill@phc.igs.net
Michelle Lowe on sun 31 mar 02
I don't know if this was mentioned before in this thread, but I have seen
the same technique done with wax resist, and called "water carving".
At 11:06 AM 3/31/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>I mean't to respond to this post before, and Michele reminded me. I
>used to use shellac resist quite often, and liked it primarily
>because the raised design was not tight, but loose.
-----------
Michelle Lowe potter in the Phoenix desert
http://www.desertdragonpottery.com
Mishy@desertdragonpottery.com
mishlowe@amug.org
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Marsha KIng on sat 18 dec 04
Does anyone have experience with shellac resist?
I have been creating low relief designs on porcelain using wax resist, but would like to see if using shellac would allow me to make bolder relief. (The wax resist begins to wipe off after a certain point.)
I am particularly concerned with the fact that shellac is flammable (I think) and has the potential to make fumes. My kiln is well vented, but it IS in my basement!
The Clayart archives don't give much information on these concerns.
Thanks,
Marsha King
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mel jacobson on sat 18 dec 04
it works.
there are many forms of resist that work
very well with glaze, clay, slips.
the list is so long that it is hard
to think about them.
any paint.
all the lines of acrylic paint and medium
color crayons.
craypas. and pigmented crayons....and, they will leave
behind a bit of color.
most forms of wax, hard and melted.
soap (bar kind, not cascade) i did a series years ago
with one bar of ivory soap. quick drawings.
the big question is:
what kind of work does one do?
careful, fussy work may require a more
finite resist. something that controls the surface.
hot wax does not serve those that need super
sensitive block out. the wax cools too fast.
i love hot wax, as i work very fast and love the
`ceylondipity` of the moving surface.
you get what you get.
yes, they all work to a degree..and it depends
on what sort of `art marks` you want.
mel
i tried putting some liquid glass in my studio, but
it just fell out of the pane.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
Elca Branman on sat 18 dec 04
A real pane in the glass..
elca branman
----- Original Message -----
From: "mel jacobson"
To:
Sent: Saturday, >
> yes, they all work to a degree..and it depends
> on what sort of `art marks` you want.
> mel
> i tried putting some liquid glass in my studio, but
> it just fell out of the pane.
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Marcia Selsor on sat 18 dec 04
I have done shellac resist but I use acrylic medium instead. You avoid =20=
the smell and it is not flammable. It works about the same.
Marcia Selsor
On Dec 18, 2004, at 4:55 AM, Marsha KIng wrote:
> Does anyone have experience with shellac resist?
>
> I have been creating low relief designs on porcelain using wax resist, =
=20
> but would like to see if using shellac would allow me to make bolder =20=
> relief. (The wax resist begins to wipe off after a certain point.)
>
> I am particularly concerned with the fact that shellac is flammable (I =
=20
> think) and has the potential to make fumes. My kiln is well vented, =20=
> but it IS in my basement!
>
> The Clayart archives don't give much information on these concerns.
>
> Thanks,
> Marsha King
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Meet the all-new My Yahoo! =96 Try it today!
>
> =
_______________________________________________________________________=20=
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =20
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
John Britt on sat 18 dec 04
Marsha,
The way I have found is to leave the lid off the shellac for several days
to a week to allow it to thicken. About half the original volume. This
allows you to use it with just one stroke and it won't "wash" or rub off
as easily.
To reduce the fire and fume hazard, I just apply it outside in and open
shed and then bring it inside to sponge.
Hope it helps,
John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com
annsemple on sat 18 dec 04
Marsha
Shellac has worked well for me in creating low relief designs, and I have
had no problem firing it. Some of the results have been lovely.
However I not only have a downvent on the kiln, but I have plenty of windows
that I leave open while firing, so have experienced no fumes of note. If
you have both kiln vent and windows I should think you would be fine.
Ann Semple
Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
annsemple@shaw.ca
www.clayfootcrockery.com
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sat 18 dec 04
Hi Marsha,
I know nothing about the utility of Shallac for resists on
Clay...other than I would guess it to offer some good
properties, and that these will depend on method of use, and
quality of materials, about like so much else...
But as far as the flammability...
Shellac, or Shell Lac, is an exudae of a little Plant
infesting 'scale' type Insect, habitating the suny climes of
India and some Asian latitudes.
When, ultimately, dissolved in Alcohol, it is the Alcohol
which connotes the flammability and not the Shellac per-se.
You may obtain the simple Shellac 'flakes' of one grade or
another, and dissolve them yourself in Ethyl or Methyl
Alcohol. The Ethyl being in theory, better for one's health
as for ambient fumes or casual skin absorbsions...
Commercial 'Gasket Sealers' are still available I think
which are a thick Shellac, and may be had of various
Industrial or some Commercial Plumbing and Mechanical or
Automotive Supply Houses...
Or easy to make yourself of course...
Have fun...
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marsha KIng"
> Does anyone have experience with shellac resist?
>
> I have been creating low relief designs on porcelain using
wax resist, but would like to see if using shellac would
allow me to make bolder relief. (The wax resist begins to
wipe off after a certain point.)
>
> I am particularly concerned with the fact that shellac is
flammable (I think) and has the potential to make fumes. My
kiln is well vented, but it IS in my basement!
>
> The Clayart archives don't give much information on these
concerns.
>
> Thanks,
> Marsha King
Dorothy Feibleman on sun 19 dec 04
Have a look at Arne =C5se`s work on the internet, he wrote 2 good books with
illustrations of how to use resist and sponging to get a good texture. One
is called "Water Colour on Porcelain" published by the Norwegian University
Press, now out of print but maybe you can get it on amamzon.com. This on
has the best illustrations and inforamation about soluable metals also.
Good luck,
D
Snail Scott on sun 19 dec 04
At 03:55 AM 12/18/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Does anyone have experience with shellac resist?
I have done quite deep (though not finely detailed)
relief with shellac resist and scotchbrite. Apply
the shellac thick enough - multiple layers if
needed. (If you can find old-style shellac flakes,
you can mix it up thicker than the usual liquid.)
There is some edge degradation from the scrubbing,
but that was OK for my intention.
-Snail
kgreaves4 on tue 21 dec 04
Marsha,
I've been doing the same kinds of low relief designs and found that
latex resist holds up better under the sponge. It still isn't great,
though. Maybe I'll try shellac, too, if there's not too much problem
with fumes. Anybody find something that works really well?
Kathy Greaves
Granite Bay, CA
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Marsha KIng wrote:
> Does anyone have experience with shellac resist?
>
> I have been creating low relief designs on porcelain using wax
resist, but would like to see if using shellac would allow me to make
bolder relief. (The wax resist begins to wipe off after a certain
point.)
>
> I am particularly concerned with the fact that shellac is flammable
(I think) and has the potential to make fumes. My kiln is well
vented, but it IS in my basement!
>
> The Clayart archives don't give much information on these concerns.
>
> Thanks,
> Marsha King
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Meet the all-new My Yahoo! =96 Try it today!
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
________
> Send postings to clayart@l...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@p...
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