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cobalt on bisque

updated wed 20 mar 02

 

mel jacobson on sun 17 mar 02


vince of course, is totally correct.
oxides painted on bisque are risky. it sure
works for some folks. but, often big blisters will pull away...expose
a dirty black clay area. not a design.

the SANDWITCH.

in my opinion the greatest way to use
oxides is to place them between two layers of glaze.

in most cases i apply a quick three second dip of my
pots in base glaze. (rhodes 32, celedon etc.) both
let oxides show well.
let the glaze dry for about 20 seconds..gloss is gone.

take an oxide mix of color, water and a few tablespoons of
your base glaze. mix well. (if your oxides are too crude, ball
mill for 15 minutes.) now, use your head...this is not a recipe.
this is a theory. tons of room for variation.

apply to the pot in an interesting way.

put a cover glaze over the entire pot. clear, works well, if it
fits. or just the base glaze.
fire.
mel
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots

Jim Tabor on mon 18 mar 02


A blue slip I have used for several decades without a problem is made from 20g
cobalt oxide with 100g albany slip. Apply thin like watercolor on bisque or on
glaze. Rich color on most glazes but less exciting on glazes high in boron. Do not
apply too thick or it appears black and dry. I have used this slip at temps
ranging from ^06 to ^11. I stopped using albany slip glazes when it became hard to
find and still have about 25# dedicated to only decorating slips.

Most of the on glaze work I do now is with stains mixed thin with water and an
equal part of a white base glaze added. Crisp edges, good color, and they brush
well, also applied thin like watercolor. Most white or light colored glazes work
best but some will produce white dots in the brushwork. Stains offer a good range
of color and most will blend for subtle shades.

Detail of a platter on the site I made to show student works is at:

http://home.earthlink.net/~taborj/index.html

Paul & Kathy Greaves on tue 19 mar 02


>>Most of the on glaze work I do now is with stains mixed thin with water
and an
equal part of a white base glaze added. Crisp edges, good color, and they
brush
well, also applied thin like watercolor. Most white or light colored glazes
work
best but some will produce white dots in the brushwork. Stains offer a good
range
of color and most will blend for subtle shades.

Detail of a platter on the site I made to show student works is at:

http://home.earthlink.net/~taborj/index.html<<

The platter decoration looked like just what I'd like my overglazing to do!
Do you mean equal parts of dry stain and base glaze, or equal parts
watercolor consistency stain and brushing consistency glaze?

TIA,

Kathy