Richard Aerni on wed 16 jan 02
Craig,
I've done a few pool installations. Even when stationary, there have been
leakage problems. One of the reasons is, that tiles are rarely, if ever,
truly impervious to moisture, and there is no grout out there that is 100%
waterproof. The best results for us came when we applied a flexible
rubberized compound over the basecoat material, and under the tile (this
compound also had fibreglass mesh pressed into it). Our biggest project, an
88' x 44' pool, was situated over an underground parking garage and leaks
would be a major hassle. We were working with an architecture firm out of
Chicago, and the biggest commercial tile setting company in southern Ohio,
and that was their recommendation ). It's been over 15 years since I've
been in this line of ceramics, so I can't remember the name, and don't know
about any new wonder products on the market since. So, just setting the
tile over the concrete board doesn't sound like enough of a seal to me.
Good luck,
Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY
----- Original Message ----- > I have to make a tile pool. The dimensions
are 8ft x 3ft x 22inches
> deep. This thing has to be moveable too. So the way I'm thinking about
> approaching the job is as follows. It needs a fat rim so folks will have
a
> place to park their butts while they gaze at the fish or pick out the
spare
> change for a bottle of Red Stripe. I am thinking of framing the pool with
> pressure treated 2 x 6s and placing the frame on a 4 x 4 base with cutouts
> for a pallet jack so moving will be easier. I will sheath the framing
with
> Duroc (cement board) and tile over this. Do any of you think I need to do
> anything to the Duroc other than apply mastic or mortar to set the tile?
I
> will, of course, seal the grout etc once the project is finished.
>
> thanx for any help, Craig Martell in Oregon
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Philip Poburka on wed 16 jan 02
Dear Craig,
This doesn't sound good at all...!
It is bound to flex especially on the "8 ft" sides...and make troubles.
My guess...
The two-bye material does not sound good for this situation.
'Perssure' treated or no.
Otherwise, if a 'pallet-jack' IS going to be available for moveing the
thing...why not just make it out of 'ferro-cement' or the like, as the old
'Kaiser' Landing Craft or other 'Boats' were or are yet?
Or like a big 'laundry' sink...?
Be a lot easier...'tile' that with ease and confidence...the 'weather'
wouldn't hurt it either, if it is to be outside...
Phil
Las Vegas...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Martell"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 12:11 PM
Subject: another tile scenario
> Dear tile gurus:
>
> I have to make a tile pool. The dimensions are 8ft x 3ft x 22inches
> deep. This thing has to be moveable too. So the way I'm thinking about
> approaching the job is as follows. It needs a fat rim so folks will have
a
> place to park their butts while they gaze at the fish or pick out the
spare
> change for a bottle of Red Stripe. I am thinking of framing the pool with
> pressure treated 2 x 6s and placing the frame on a 4 x 4 base with cutouts
> for a pallet jack so moving will be easier. I will sheath the framing
with
> Duroc (cement board) and tile over this. Do any of you think I need to do
> anything to the Duroc other than apply mastic or mortar to set the tile?
I
> will, of course, seal the grout etc once the project is finished.
>
> thanx for any help, Craig Martell in Oregon
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Craig Martell on wed 16 jan 02
Dear tile gurus:
I have to make a tile pool. The dimensions are 8ft x 3ft x 22inches
deep. This thing has to be moveable too. So the way I'm thinking about
approaching the job is as follows. It needs a fat rim so folks will have a
place to park their butts while they gaze at the fish or pick out the spare
change for a bottle of Red Stripe. I am thinking of framing the pool with
pressure treated 2 x 6s and placing the frame on a 4 x 4 base with cutouts
for a pallet jack so moving will be easier. I will sheath the framing with
Duroc (cement board) and tile over this. Do any of you think I need to do
anything to the Duroc other than apply mastic or mortar to set the tile? I
will, of course, seal the grout etc once the project is finished.
thanx for any help, Craig Martell in Oregon
Craig Martell on thu 17 jan 02
Hi:
Thanks to all of you good folks who responded to my question and gave
advice and help. I'll get back to all of you individually but not
tonite. My wife decided that I should stop making pots today and go over
to the Gallery and take out a wall and put a door in another wall. No
problem! Where's the chain saw and blasting caps? I'm sort of sleepy.
regards, Craig Martell in Oregon
Joseph Dallas on thu 17 jan 02
Hi Craig,
I'm unclear about the use of the pool. Will it hold water
constantly or will it be empty each time you move it?
If you move it filled with water, the weight and movement
of the water will put tremendous stresses on your frame
and consequently your tile. Without a liner it will leak.
I would install a liner, like a shower pan liner. Lay the
liner in the bottom and turn it up the side to the height
of the expected water line. nail the liner above that line.
Install the backerboard on the sides only, nailing it only
above the water line. Then use a mortar dry-pack for the
bottom, about 1-2" deep. I would use about half sand and
half portland cement for the mortar, or you can buy a
prepared mortar. The mortar will hold the bottom edge of
the backerboard in place. Use a mesh tape on the joints
of the backerboard and mud with thinset. Use thinset to
install the tile, a polymer-modified thinset. Mastic
will not hold up to constant water presence. Sealing the
grout will help but by itself will not keep it from
leaking.
Let me know if I can help any further.
Later,
Joe Dallas
http://home.att.net/~jedallas
jedallas@att.net
Dallas Pottery & Architectural Ceramics
Columbus, GA
P.S. The bottom should be solid wood, preferably a marine
plywood. The sides can be studs but no more than 12" apart.
Backerbaord is not stiff enough otherwise.
Craig Martell wrote:
>
> Dear tile gurus:
>
> I have to make a tile pool. The dimensions are 8ft x 3ft x 22inches
> deep. This thing has to be moveable too. So the way I'm thinking about
> approaching the job is as follows. It needs a fat rim so folks will have a
> place to park their butts while they gaze at the fish or pick out the spare
> change for a bottle of Red Stripe. I am thinking of framing the pool with
> pressure treated 2 x 6s and placing the frame on a 4 x 4 base with cutouts
> for a pallet jack so moving will be easier. I will sheath the framing with
> Duroc (cement board) and tile over this. Do any of you think I need to do
> anything to the Duroc other than apply mastic or mortar to set the tile? I
> will, of course, seal the grout etc once the project is finished.
>
> thanx for any help, Craig Martell in Oregon
>
| |
|
