claybair on tue 8 jan 02
Hi Snail,
Sounds like a fun project.
I'm not positive but I seem to recall a tile installer telling me I could
tile over Formica.
However if you are uncomfortable with that I suggest you buy some
Hardibacker. You can get it at any Home Depot type store. It comes in a
thin sheet about 1/4" thick. It is easy to cut ... all you have to do is
score then snap it. You could then screw it to the Formica surface.
Hardibacker is the surface used for bathroom tiles. I use it for my
indoor/outdoor mosaics.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
Snail wrote>>
I've been roped in to the annual art-auction fundraiser
at the school where I've been teaching. The coordinator
fondly recalls a project that my predecessor put together,
featuring tiles made by the kids and mounted on a
tabletop. So, I said I'd come up with something of the
sort. (Not getting paid a dime extra, but it does solve
the lesson-plan dilemma for a few sessions!)
I went looking for a cheap, not-too-large table to rehab
for the project. Found a reasonably sturdy, not-bad-
looking coffee table at a thrift store. However, it has
a formica top.
I've set tile on concrete block and on plywood, but
never on something as very non-porous and smooth as
formica. Will normal tile mastic work OK on it? (I was
planning to sand it a bit, first.)
The formica is definitely not going to come off, but I
figure it's actually an asset, as the wood underneath
will be protected from grout moisture and such. And
there won't be a lot of stress on a horizontal project.
Still, I'd appreciate input from anyone who's tiled
similar surfaces before. Any pitfalls to watch out for?
Also, last session I took the kids to see the Picasso
ceramics exhibition at the local museum. They were
really intrigued by the flat orange terra-cotta tiles
with the black designs painted on them. I'd like to
try that for the tabletop; I figure the limited color
palette will give a fairly unified-looking result
when it's all put together. I'm thinking, though,
that it might be tough to get the excess grout off
of unglazed surfaces. Has anyone grouted unglazed
earthenware tiles? Is is sufficient to seal them
first, or should I plan on using glaze after all?
-Snail
Terrance Lazaroff on tue 8 jan 02
Snail;
I have read a few links on ceramic mosaics. Here is one that will get you
some info.
http://www.scsu.edu/sama/
I believe you just have to scare the surface to make it rough.
Terrance
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 7:25 PM
Subject: tile mosaic
> I've been roped in to the annual art-auction fundraiser
> at the school where I've been teaching. The coordinator
> fondly recalls a project that my predecessor put together,
> featuring tiles made by the kids and mounted on a
> tabletop. So, I said I'd come up with something of the
> sort. (Not getting paid a dime extra, but it does solve
> the lesson-plan dilemma for a few sessions!)
>
> I went looking for a cheap, not-too-large table to rehab
> for the project. Found a reasonably sturdy, not-bad-
> looking coffee table at a thrift store. However, it has
> a formica top.
>
> I've set tile on concrete block and on plywood, but
> never on something as very non-porous and smooth as
> formica. Will normal tile mastic work OK on it? (I was
> planning to sand it a bit, first.)
>
> The formica is definitely not going to come off, but I
> figure it's actually an asset, as the wood underneath
> will be protected from grout moisture and such. And
> there won't be a lot of stress on a horizontal project.
> Still, I'd appreciate input from anyone who's tiled
> similar surfaces before. Any pitfalls to watch out for?
>
> Also, last session I took the kids to see the Picasso
> ceramics exhibition at the local museum. They were
> really intrigued by the flat orange terra-cotta tiles
> with the black designs painted on them. I'd like to
> try that for the tabletop; I figure the limited color
> palette will give a fairly unified-looking result
> when it's all put together. I'm thinking, though,
> that it might be tough to get the excess grout off
> of unglazed surfaces. Has anyone grouted unglazed
> earthenware tiles? Is is sufficient to seal them
> first, or should I plan on using glaze after all?
>
> -Snail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
linda blossom on tue 8 jan 02
> I've set tile on concrete block and on plywood, but
> never on something as very non-porous and smooth as
> formica. Will normal tile mastic work OK on it? (I was
> planning to sand it a bit, first.)
The reason tile mastic is sold in plastic containers is because it will not
cure in plastic. For the same reason you would not use it in this case.
There is a thinset made to go over, I think, formica and other tiles. You
can ask at a tile store what type this is. I would not go to a hardware
store unless there is someone who really does know tile. My experience is
that they have out of date materials, don't know the materials well, and
don't carry a full line.
>
> Also, last session I took the kids to see the Picasso
> ceramics exhibition at the local museum. They were
> really intrigued by the flat orange terra-cotta tiles
> with the black designs painted on them. I'd like to
> try that for the tabletop; I figure the limited color
> palette will give a fairly unified-looking result
> when it's all put together. I'm thinking, though,
> that it might be tough to get the excess grout off
> of unglazed surfaces. Has anyone grouted unglazed
> earthenware tiles? Is is sufficient to seal them
> first, or should I plan on using glaze after all?
You can use sealer on them before grouting. Even more than one coat. Then
when wiping the grout, wipe only once with the sponge before turning it over
thus not wiping the tiles with grout that is on the sponge. Try to resist
the urge to scrub them. Terry Sullivan may have more info, he knows quite a
lot about this area.
Linda
Ithaca, NY
>
> -Snail
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Snail Scott on tue 8 jan 02
I've been roped in to the annual art-auction fundraiser
at the school where I've been teaching. The coordinator
fondly recalls a project that my predecessor put together,
featuring tiles made by the kids and mounted on a
tabletop. So, I said I'd come up with something of the
sort. (Not getting paid a dime extra, but it does solve
the lesson-plan dilemma for a few sessions!)
I went looking for a cheap, not-too-large table to rehab
for the project. Found a reasonably sturdy, not-bad-
looking coffee table at a thrift store. However, it has
a formica top.
I've set tile on concrete block and on plywood, but
never on something as very non-porous and smooth as
formica. Will normal tile mastic work OK on it? (I was
planning to sand it a bit, first.)
The formica is definitely not going to come off, but I
figure it's actually an asset, as the wood underneath
will be protected from grout moisture and such. And
there won't be a lot of stress on a horizontal project.
Still, I'd appreciate input from anyone who's tiled
similar surfaces before. Any pitfalls to watch out for?
Also, last session I took the kids to see the Picasso
ceramics exhibition at the local museum. They were
really intrigued by the flat orange terra-cotta tiles
with the black designs painted on them. I'd like to
try that for the tabletop; I figure the limited color
palette will give a fairly unified-looking result
when it's all put together. I'm thinking, though,
that it might be tough to get the excess grout off
of unglazed surfaces. Has anyone grouted unglazed
earthenware tiles? Is is sufficient to seal them
first, or should I plan on using glaze after all?
-Snail
Don Arons on wed 9 jan 02
Rough up the surface of plastic laminate. Wipe surface quickly with
acetone. Use GE brand silicone for adhesive.
You can use the same silicone for the grout, if the color is to your
satisfaction. When using silicone for the grout, the surface of the tile must
be cleaned quickly with burlap or semi-rough fabric or nylon lace material.
To make the grout removal easier, (believe it or not) use a cheap liquid
detergent as a lubricant. This will not affect the grout.
DWA623@AOL.COM
Marie Gibbons on wed 9 jan 02
an accidental discovery might be of help as well... if your formica is very
slick.
when we moved in this house, 16 years ago... the formica counter was very
stained and icky.... i cleaned it with a really strong cleaner that had lye
in it. it stripped the shine right off the countertop. that stripped
surface and a little extra tooth from roughing up with sand paper would be a
perfect surface to tile on.
marie gibbons
www.oooladies.com
claybair on wed 9 jan 02
Hi Linda,
I noticed you are back on the east coast. I've been thinking of your house
that is so fabulously tiled. Did you sell it or were you able to move back
to it?
I am a chickensh**. I have a huge house I should decorate with tile but I
have a consideration on resale. My other consideration is leaving that much
of me behind. Seven years ago I lived in PA I toiled over my gardens for 8
years (my pre-clay era). When we sold the house the new owner took a back
hoe to the place.... that really crushed me! At that point I decided not to
put anything into a house that I couldn't take with me. Of course I promptly
contradicted my decision by taking a year of my life to build the one we are
in now! I did make some accent tiles for the kitchen, foyer and master bath
but nothing like what you have done. If we ever decide this is our last
house I will take inspiration from you.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
Wanda Holmes at Alistia on wed 9 jan 02
Gayle,
It's the journey, not the destination. Tile that house with all your heart,
girl! My husband and I have lived all over the country, we've redecorated
lots of houses, and built 3 from scratch. We've always put ourselves into
the places, done what we wanted, and we've never had a problem with resale.
People like the individuality. It's a bit like the appeal of hand made
items. Our current house is made of rammed earth and I plan to tile it
until I literally run out of "canvas".
Wanda
p.s. those of you into tile and near LA should not miss the Adamson House in
Malibu. Incredible!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of claybair
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 1:15 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: tile mosaic
Hi Linda,
I noticed you are back on the east coast. I've been thinking of your house
that is so fabulously tiled. Did you sell it or were you able to move back
to it?
I am a chickensh**. I have a huge house I should decorate with tile but I
have a consideration on resale. My other consideration is leaving that much
of me behind. Seven years ago I lived in PA I toiled over my gardens for 8
years (my pre-clay era). When we sold the house the new owner took a back
hoe to the place.... that really crushed me! At that point I decided not to
put anything into a house that I couldn't take with me. Of course I promptly
contradicted my decision by taking a year of my life to build the one we are
in now! I did make some accent tiles for the kitchen, foyer and master bath
but nothing like what you have done. If we ever decide this is our last
house I will take inspiration from you.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Mitsuru Cope on thu 10 jan 02
You can see many fantastic mosaic work here.
www.mosaikadesign.com/color.html
They did many commissioned work. I know them personally, so my opinion may
be biased but it's worth checking.
Mitsuru Cope
Montreal
Terrance Lazaroff on thu 10 jan 02
Thank you Mitsuru.
I visited their studio about two months ago. I was very impressed in that I
recommend anyone asking me about mosaic courses to look at their operation.
Keep on Potting.
Terrance
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mitsuru Cope"
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: tile mosaic
> You can see many fantastic mosaic work here.
>
> www.mosaikadesign.com/color.html
>
>
>
> They did many commissioned work. I know them personally, so my opinion may
> be biased but it's worth checking.
>
>
> Mitsuru Cope
> Montreal
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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