Terrance Lazaroff on sat 18 aug 01
I was told that glazing large plates is easy when you have a vat large
enough to pass the plate through without stopping to twist and turn.
Right handed version;
one: don't wax the foot.
two: hold the plate in the left hand foot side down.
three: dip your right hand into the glaze mix.
four: immediately place the plate firmly onto the right hand, the glaze on
your hand will be absorbed by the plate and will form a temporary bond.
five: pass the plate in a smooth motion through the glaze. Keep the right
hand under the plate, don't wiggle the fingers.
six: When dry clean the foot.
It takes practice.
Terrance
vince pitelka on sun 19 aug 01
In my studio in California I made lots of large stonware platters up to 26"
in diameter, and I glazed them all in a 36" restaurant wok, which I
purchased at a flea-market for one dollar. Even if you have to pay new
prices, it will be worth it. The best place to buy a large wok is from a
large Asian foods supplier. With a relatively small amount of glaze in the
wok (less than five gallons), you can glaze the largest platters and bowls,
simply by rolling them through the glaze in one continuous motion, so that
the inside and outside are glazed simultaneously. The easy way is to simply
grasp the rim with several fingers, dip one edge in, and roll the plate or
bowl around until the whole surface is covered, and then remove it so that
the opposite edge comes out last. After dipping touch up the finger marks
with a brush.
If you want to get a little fancier, you can build a set of large tongs
which grasp the rim in two places on one edge and one place on the opposite
edge, or for really large platters, on two places on each edge. I built my
tongs out of 1/4" mild steel welding rod, and I put short lengths of rubber
hose over the ends where they grasp the rim of the platter or bowl. Someone
is now manufacturing a very similar set of tongs, and I do not know how well
they work. I built mine in 1978, and I still have several of them. They
have the pivot point at one end (just a simple hinge made from 1/4" welding
rod and 1/4" inside diameter steel tube), and the opposing members continue
fairly close together for about eight or ten inches to allow them to be
grasped, and then they curve outwards, with a hook-like curve at the end of
each member (covered with rubber hose) where they grasp the rim. You can
adapt from this description and come up with something which works equally
well. If you have any doubts, build a mock-up out of paper-clip wire and
use it to lift poker chips or somethign to make sure you have the physical
design correct, and then build the big one.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Rod & Erin on mon 20 aug 01
The easiest way I have found to glaze large plates and platters (besides
spraying) is build a tall very narrow box out of wood. For example the one I
have is 3' and 6" wide (about there for width) Now you do not need a
terrible amount of glaze to fill the box and it makes for an easy dip. Treat
the inside with Thomsons water seal.
Rod
----- Original Message -----
From: "vince pitelka"
To:
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: Glazing big plates
> In my studio in California I made lots of large stonware platters up to
26"
> in diameter, and I glazed them all in a 36" restaurant wok, which I
> purchased at a flea-market for one dollar. Even if you have to pay new
> prices, it will be worth it. The best place to buy a large wok is from a
> large Asian foods supplier. With a relatively small amount of glaze in
the
> wok (less than five gallons), you can glaze the largest platters and
bowls,
> simply by rolling them through the glaze in one continuous motion, so that
> the inside and outside are glazed simultaneously. The easy way is to
simply
> grasp the rim with several fingers, dip one edge in, and roll the plate or
> bowl around until the whole surface is covered, and then remove it so that
> the opposite edge comes out last. After dipping touch up the finger marks
> with a brush.
>
> If you want to get a little fancier, you can build a set of large tongs
> which grasp the rim in two places on one edge and one place on the
opposite
> edge, or for really large platters, on two places on each edge. I built
my
> tongs out of 1/4" mild steel welding rod, and I put short lengths of
rubber
> hose over the ends where they grasp the rim of the platter or bowl.
Someone
> is now manufacturing a very similar set of tongs, and I do not know how
well
> they work. I built mine in 1978, and I still have several of them. They
> have the pivot point at one end (just a simple hinge made from 1/4"
welding
> rod and 1/4" inside diameter steel tube), and the opposing members
continue
> fairly close together for about eight or ten inches to allow them to be
> grasped, and then they curve outwards, with a hook-like curve at the end
of
> each member (covered with rubber hose) where they grasp the rim. You can
> adapt from this description and come up with something which works equally
> well. If you have any doubts, build a mock-up out of paper-clip wire and
> use it to lift poker chips or somethign to make sure you have the physical
> design correct, and then build the big one.
> Best wishes -
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
> Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
> 615/597-5376
> Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
> 615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
> http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
>
>
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