Craig Dunn Clark on wed 27 jun 01
Jimmy, rather than just testing the piece to feel the thickness before
turning it over try the following. Get yourself two pieces of wood. One of a
rectilinear nature and the other dowel.
Take the pot to be trimmed and place it right side up on a flat surface
that extends past the diameter of the pot. Take the rectilinear (either
square or rectangular) piece of wood and lay it horizontally across the top
of the pot to where it will rest by itself. Take the piece of dowel and use
it as a depth gauge.
Pick up the dowel and hold it perpendicular to the horizontal piece
spanning across the pot. The point of contact should be near the center of
the horzontal span.
Let the dowel descend into the pot until it comes in contact with the
bottom of the inside of the pot. Mark the dowel with a pencil at the point
where it contacts the bottom of the horizontal piece. Call this measurement
A.
Next, place the dowel outside of the pot, once again perpendicular to
the horizontal cross piece, and let it descend until it comes in contact
with the surface on which the pot is resting. Mark the dowel rod again in
the same manner that you marked it the first time. Call this one measurement
B.
You now have two marks on the dowel rod. The distance between the two is
the thickness of the bottom of the pot. The nice thing about this is that it
enables you not only to measure the thickness of the bottom of open forms
like platters and bowls, but closed forms as well. If you only have a tiny
opening just get a skinny dowel and carefully balance the horizontal cross
piece.
Once you have the visual on the thickness of the bottom it's a piece of
cake. When you first start to trim thickness from the bottom don't start at
the very center. Start a little off center. The idea is to leave a small nub
of clay that will serve as a visual indicator of how much clay you have
actuall removed as the trimming of the pot proceeds.
Keep the depth guage dowel with the marks on it close by and periocally
look at it and compare what you see to the height of the nubin that is left
from the trimming.
The other thing that you will want to do is occassionally do what was
taught to me as a sound test. Take the side of your thumb, near the knuckle,
and tap on the bottom and side of the pot. Listen to the sound that is made
and pay attention to what the vibration, if any, is like. When the bottom is
still thick there will be a dull thud. As you trim it to a more acceptable
thickness there will be more of a "drum" type sound and a bit of a vibration
that can be felt with a light touch of a finger tip of the other hand.
Hope this helps and is not too confusing.
If you have any questions contact me off the thread and I'll see if I can
describe this a little better.
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, TX 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy G"
To:
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 3:04 PM
Subject: Trimming technique question
> Sorry to bother you all with such a trivial question, but I sure could
> use some hints from some of you experienced folks out there.
>
> I'm still learning and my problem is with trimming bottoms. On an all
> too frequent basis, I'll throw a great piece, only to trim the bottom to
> thinly & turn the thing into a planter.
>
> Other than just testing the thickness by feel before I turn the piece
> over, what can I use to keep me from doing this?
>
> Thanks so much for your suggestions.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Connie Christensen on fri 29 jun 01
I take a small piece of clay and roll it and flatten it a little. Then
use a needle tool to measure the thickness of the bottom of the pot and
mark that thickness on the little piece of clay. Starting from the top
of the mark, I mark the thickness I want the pot to be and the remainder
is what gets trimmed. I start trimming the bottom about the width of a
quarter and then just stand the piece of clay in the trimmed spot to see
if the depth is correct. Once I've got the correct depth, just trim the
rest of the pot.
Also, once you get the depth correct, tap it, so you get the feel and
sound of the correct depth. Eventually, you won't need the measurement
any more.
Below is an attempt to show visually what I'm talking about and may or
may not show up properly in your e-mail (it's done on a Mac). It ends up
looking like the letter "F" on the piece of clay. The top section of the
"F" is what you want the thickness of the bottom of the pot to be and
the bottom section of the "F" is the thickness that is trimmed. I'm not
the best at explaining things, I hope this makes sense.
Connie
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Anita M. Swan on fri 29 jun 01
H Jimmy, I actually check the thickness of each bottom with my needle tool, and
make a mark on the side of the pot indicating how thick it is and how much I can
safely trim - that way I am not guessing. 'Nita
Jimmy G wrote:
> Sorry to bother you all with such a trivial question, but I sure could
> use some hints from some of you experienced folks out there.
>
> I'm still learning and my problem is with trimming bottoms. On an all
> too frequent basis, I'll throw a great piece, only to trim the bottom to
> thinly & turn the thing into a planter.
>
> Other than just testing the thickness by feel before I turn the piece
> over, what can I use to keep me from doing this?
>
> Thanks so much for your suggestions.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Matt MacIntire on fri 29 jun 01
a few common suggestions...
as you get the bottom trimmed and are thinking it might be thin enough, TAP
the bottom of the pot and the side and compare the sounds. As the wall
thickness gets thinner, you will hear a higher sounding tap. With practice
you can gauge the thickness by the sound the tapping makes.
Carefully FEEL the thickness of the walls with your hands before you trim.
Somehow that tactile memory seems to stay with one better than the visual
memory of the interior curve profile.
You can also use some tool as a depth gauge to estimate how much clay to
remove from the very bottom. Put some tool or stick into the center and
down to the bottom. Sight across the rim and hold the tool there. Then on
the outside of the pot, line up the tool to get an idea how deep you can
make the foot.
As you are trimming pay careful attention if the clay seems to "give" under
the trimming tool. Stop if this happens (duh!) Often you can narrowly
avert disaster if you pay careful attention at this stage.
the tapping is the best way though.
good luck
Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Jimmy G [mailto:jsgreene@CTS.COM]
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 4:05 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Trimming technique question
Sorry to bother you all with such a trivial question, but I sure could use
some hints from some of you experienced folks out there.
I'm still learning and my problem is with trimming bottoms. On an all too
frequent basis, I'll throw a great piece, only to trim the bottom to thinly
& turn the thing into a planter.
Other than just testing the thickness by feel before I turn the piece over,
what can I use to keep me from doing this?
Thanks so much for your suggestions.
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Jimmy G on fri 29 jun 01
Sorry to bother you all with such a trivial question, but I sure could
use some hints from some of you experienced folks out there.
I'm still learning and my problem is with trimming bottoms. On an all
too frequent basis, I'll throw a great piece, only to trim the bottom to
thinly & turn the thing into a planter.
Other than just testing the thickness by feel before I turn the piece
over, what can I use to keep me from doing this?
Thanks so much for your suggestions.
Bruce Girrell on fri 29 jun 01
Jimmy G wrote:
> On an all too frequent basis, I'll throw a great piece, only to trim
> the bottom too thinly & turn the thing into a planter.
>
> Other than just testing the thickness by feel before I turn the piece
> over, what can I use to keep me from doing this?
Tap on the bottom of the pot and listen. It will take a little experience,
but you'll soon be able to tell the proper sound. One warning: If the pot
that you are trimming is particularly dry, it will be much harder to hear
the sound. Overly damp pots aren't a problem because they still sound about
right and you'll often see the clay start to deform before you have a chance
to cut through the bottom.
Many of the pots that I make have a belly that is 3, 4, or more times the
diameter of the foot. To help support the overhanging clay, I end up leaving
a substantial amount of clay on the bottom. As the pot sets up after
forming, I end up with the body of the pot much drier than the base. To help
even out moisture when trimming, I actually trim the foot twice. I first do
a really rough trim as soon as possible to get the greater portion of the
excess clay off. I then bag the piece and allow it to sit for a couple of
days. After this, the moisture has pretty well evened out and the piece
trims nicely.
Bruce "if only I could throw a great piece on an all too frequent basis"
Girrell
Wade Blocker on fri 29 jun 01
Put a needle into a wooden holder and cut it to 1/2" or buy a needle tool
that has a very short needle. Pierce the bottom of your pot to see how
thick it is and then trim it , occasionally checking the thickness with
your needle tool. Any marks made by the needle tool can easily be removed
with a damp sponge. You can decide how thick a foot you want to leave,1/3
or 1/4" by this method.Mia in hot ABQ
Mike Gordon on fri 29 jun 01
Jimmy,
Check the thickness with a pin tool to see first the thickness of the
bottom. Look at the rim of your pot. If you trim the sides and the
bottom so that they are as close as possible to the lip thickness then
your whole pot will be the same thickness from top to bottom. Good luck,
it ain't easy. Mike Gordon
Penny Hosler on fri 29 jun 01
> Other than just testing the thickness by feel before I turn the piece
> over, what can I use to keep me from doing this?
A very knowledgable lady told me to insert a push pin into the bottom, from
the inside. When it's leather hard and you flip it over to begin trimming,
just stop when your trimming tool clicks on the point of the tack. The pins
on my push pins are 5/16", which is just about right. If you're making a
thicker bottom find or make some pins the right length. A dap of slip fills
any holes nicely if you're not sure glaze will do the job.
Penny in WA
>
Martin Howard on sat 30 jun 01
So, you've taken the bottom out during turning/trimming.
Complete the pot, glaze and fire and put it on the stand with the others for
sale.
Then watch your visitors have a shock as they see their hand through the
bottom of the pot:-) wicked!
At least it gets them talking. Can always use such pots in the garden or
patio around plants, like the Victorian rhubarb pots.
Martin Howard
Webb's Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
England
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Billie Schwab on sat 30 jun 01
ok, i'll bite.............what is a victorian rhubarb pot?
billie
"At least it gets them talking. Can always use such pots in the garden or
patio around plants, like the Victorian rhubarb pots."
Martin Howard
David Cowdrill on sat 30 jun 01
Good question. I use the same method as described by Craig Dunn Clark, a
flat stick and measuring with a dowel the difference between the pot center
and the wheelhead. I also mark the dowel like a ruler every 1/4
inch. Also, with a pot with a rounded bottom I measure the thickness at
the foot diameter. With those two measurements one can trim bottoms to the
desired thickness quickly.
David Cowdrill in Great Falls, Virginia
Chris Clarke on sat 30 jun 01
I push the bottom slightly, if it springs back it's done. If my thumb makes
a dent in the clay it's too thick. And if it pushes in, no spring, I
screwed up. We all do it, I like to trim through my really big pieces,
let's me work out my aggression while I kick it around my studio: ) chris
temecula, california
chris@ccpots.com
www.ccpots.com
Martin Howard on sun 1 jul 01
Oh, dear, everyone over here knows Victorian Rhubarb Pots!
They are large pots with no bottoms, which go over rhubarb plants to cause
them to send up taller whiter stalks early in the growing season. The top
opening is smaller than the bottom.
Old forcing pots. Made during the 1800s or early 1900s.
Sometimes they had a lid, which often got lost as the rhubarb pots passed
from generation to generation. Finish is usually unglazed earthenware, with
a bell shape form. The aim is to keep the light out, like as if the rhubarb
was growing in the factory farms in Yorkshire.
Now, if you do not grow rhubarb in them they get colonised by snails. Ours
are regarded as the local Hilton Hotel by all varieties of snails from miles
around!!
Then put them upside down. And feed the birds.
Martin Howard
Webb's Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
England
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
Helen Bates on sun 1 jul 01
Oh, how smart! I need such pots, and often I make them, but didn't
connect need and the making... duh!
Helen
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 07:50:27 +0100
> From: Martin Howard
> Subject: Trimming technique question
>
> So, you've taken the bottom out during turning/trimming.
> Complete the pot, glaze and fire and put it on the stand with the others for
> sale.
>
> Then watch your visitors have a shock as they see their hand through the
> bottom of the pot:-) wicked!
>
> At least it gets them talking. Can always use such pots in the garden or
> patio around plants, like the Victorian rhubarb pots.
>
> Martin Howard
> Webb's Cottage Pottery
> Woolpits Road, Great Saling
> BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
> England
>
> martin@webbscottage.co.uk
> http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
>
> ------------------------------
--
===========================
Helen Bates
mailto:nell@quintenet.com
===========================
Christena Schafale on mon 2 jul 01
Jimmy,
Use a straight pin (dressmaker's pin). Put one finger on the inside so you
can feel the pin come through. Holding it just where it enters the clay on
the outside, pull it out, and you will be able to see how thick the wall
is. The hole it leaves will be small enough to burnish away with a
fingertip and will leave no trace. Also, tap gently on the bottom and
observe the sound. After awhile you will learn to correlate the sound with
the thickness as measured by the pin, and you won't need the pin anymore.
Another approach is to make an effort to leave more clay in the bottom of
your pots to begin with. Test the thickness with a needle tool after
opening the clay mound.
Practice, practice, practice.
Chris
At 01:04 PM 6/29/01 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm still learning and my problem is with trimming bottoms. On an all
>too frequent basis, I'll throw a great piece, only to trim the bottom to
>thinly & turn the thing into a planter.
>
>Other than just testing the thickness by feel before I turn the piece
>over, what can I use to keep me from doing this?
Consultation and Referral Specialist
Resources for Seniors
christenas@rfsnc.org
www.resourcesforseniors.com
Phone: (919) 713-1537
FAX: (919) 872-9574
1110 Navaho Dr, Suite 400
Raleigh, NC 27609
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