D Bouchette on tue 22 may 01
Question for you kiln aficionados: When is the removable "vent" brick on
the back of a chimney used (other than for pre-heating the chimney itself)?
Finally, after a year and a half of planning, I'm building my kilns. What
started out a fast-fire wood has turned into a propane flat-top plus a
little anagama for the wood experience. Thanks to David Hendley (via
Clayart and email), Craig Martell, Roger Korn, Lisa Clapp, Lou Nils, and
Fred Olsen for advice. I threw my first pot just 2-1/2 years ago, and here
I am building kilns :-)
deb
scott lykens on wed 23 may 01
Sounds like your question is about whats called a " passive damper"
which does what its name implies. It can do those things one does with a
damper, but a notion more passively. Depending on what you what, you might
use this differently, i like to use it when i have found the perfect stop
for my damper. i wont want to move that damper too much, but when i need to
increase or decrease a little bit of oxygen, i'll move that passive damper,
i like it for more subtle effects, like when smoking a kiln.
othrs just like to have lots of options for control air and how it moves
through the kiln, even if you have mopre mouse holes, peep holes, and
dampers than you use at first, you might decide to use them later, and its
alot easier to not morter a brick than to pound a hole in a kiln with a
hammer.
sct
>
>Question for you kiln aficionados: When is the removable "vent" brick on
>the back of a chimney used (other than for pre-heating the chimney itself)?
>
>Finally, after a year and a half of planning, I'm building my kilns. What
>started out a fast-fire wood has turned into a propane flat-top plus a
>little anagama for the wood experience. Thanks to David Hendley (via
>Clayart and email), Craig Martell, Roger Korn, Lisa Clapp, Lou Nils, and
>Fred Olsen for advice. I threw my first pot just 2-1/2 years ago, and here
>I am building kilns :-)
>
>deb
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
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Hank Murrow on sun 2 mar 03
On Sunday, March 2, 2003, at 08:25 AM, dana shearin wrote:
> I'm in the middle of finalizing a design for a downdraught soda kiln
> and I
> have run into a situation I wanted to ask about. Can a Chimney share a
> wall
> with the kiln ( I'm working with very limited space and that extra 4
> and a
> half inches is critical.) Can I built the chimney out of soft brick
> mortered
> and have it be pretty air tight? ( the kiln will be indoors.) I'm
> planing to
> build the kiln with the hot face bricks being hard brick and soft
> brick on
> the outer layer. if I build the chimney out of hard brick and it
> shares a
> wall with the kiln that would be the only wall of the kiln that had two
> layers of hard brick which I am concerned would create a cold spot in
> the
> kiln because of the added Btus required to heat that extra density. Any
> advice you might have would be great.
>
Dear Dana:
Two suggestions:
One; can you let the flue trough through the kiln shed wall so that it
stands outside? With the flue standing outside the building that would
ease up your dimensional problem without messing with heat transfer
from the kiln to the flue. You would need to build the exit through the
building very carefully so as not to create a dangerous condition; but
you would also do this if it goes through the roof.
Two; If case one is undesirable, make the hot face of hard brick in
the area alongside the flue, and back that up with soft brick, the soft
brick will slow down heat exchange between flue and chamber. Natural
draft kilns require that the flue keep the gases at high temperature
for maximum draft, so an insulated flue can be built shorter for a
given draft speed. it is all about buoyancy of the flue gases relative
to ambient air temp.
Also consider being able to block off the burner ports during salting
to protect expensive flame retention tips from corrosion. At Anderson
Ranch in the early 70s we salted, turned the burners off, closed the
damper, and closed the burner ports, waiting for around 15-20 minutes
to let the salt volatilize, then fired it up again until movement of
the cones was noticed, and salted again. Very even salting this way.
Sort of like a steam bath. 8-12 #s of salt for a 50 cu ft kiln.
Cheers, Hank
Vince Pitelka on sun 2 mar 03
Dana -
Certainly you can build the chimney so it shares the back wall of the kiln,
and I would recommend that the chimney be lined with hardbrick or tile flue
liners. It will not create any kind of cold spot in your firing chamber.
I recommend this only for a downdraft kiln, soda kiln, or wood kiln. I
would never recommend it for a salt kiln, because the kiln will likely have
to be rebuilt while the chimney is still in fine shape. I learned that the
hard way.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Office - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 x111, FAX 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
dana shearin on sun 2 mar 03
I'm in the middle of finalizing a design for a downdraught soda kiln and I
have run into a situation I wanted to ask about. Can a Chimney share a wall
with the kiln ( I'm working with very limited space and that extra 4 and a
half inches is critical.) Can I built the chimney out of soft brick mortered
and have it be pretty air tight? ( the kiln will be indoors.) I'm planing to
build the kiln with the hot face bricks being hard brick and soft brick on
the outer layer. if I build the chimney out of hard brick and it shares a
wall with the kiln that would be the only wall of the kiln that had two
layers of hard brick which I am concerned would create a cold spot in the
kiln because of the added Btus required to heat that extra density. Any
advice you might have would be great.
Thanks, Dana Shearin
Steve Mills on mon 3 mar 03
Incorporate the back wall of the kiln with the flu. If you build it with
a single layer of brick between the chamber and the flu, it will work
perfectly well and have no cold spot. My first kiln was built this way,
and I have built others like it since.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , dana shearin writes
>I'm in the middle of finalizing a design for a downdraught soda kiln and I
>have run into a situation I wanted to ask about. Can a Chimney share a wall
>with the kiln ( I'm working with very limited space and that extra 4 and a
>half inches is critical.) Can I built the chimney out of soft brick mortered
>and have it be pretty air tight? ( the kiln will be indoors.) I'm planing to
>build the kiln with the hot face bricks being hard brick and soft brick on
>the outer layer. if I build the chimney out of hard brick and it shares a
>wall with the kiln that would be the only wall of the kiln that had two
>layers of hard brick which I am concerned would create a cold spot in the
>kiln because of the added Btus required to heat that extra density. Any
>advice you might have would be great.
>Thanks, Dana Shearin
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
George Nagel on fri 22 feb 08
I recently purchased a unfired MFT/OFT kiln, dismantled and moved it. The
kiln used oversized K23 bricks/single wall throughout. I'd like to change
to a double wall, increasing wall thickness from 6 to 81/2". I have a
number of K26 bricks that I' was thinking about using in the firebox area/
bottom few courses of the kiln walls. I read a previous post that
cautioned about combining K23 and K26, citing that thermal expansion rates
will cause brick wear. Is there a way to use the different bricks in a way
that this would not be a signficant concern? Say if I had two complete
courses of K26 and switched to K23 for the rest of the Kiln would that be
less of a concern. Thanks, George
threereeds1 on fri 22 feb 08
Hi George,
I have a flat roofed kiln, dry stacked one thickness mixed 2300 and 2600
insulators.
Had to chink the first two firings a bit, now only the bricked up door. The
kiln has only
8 firings on it so far. No issues. Maybe in more firings something will
come up.
I honestly can't see an expansion difference issue with these brick and I
have never seen
an allowance for expansion of insulators built into a kiln. Note that I did
not just say that
insulating brick do not expand.
If your roof is made from insulators I would be more conservative here and
not mix.
More will reply on this one.
Good luck,
Tom King
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Nagel"
To:
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 11:19 AM
Subject: Kiln Building Question
>I recently purchased a unfired MFT/OFT kiln, dismantled and moved it. The
> kiln used oversized K23 bricks/single wall throughout. I'd like to change
> to a double wall, increasing wall thickness from 6 to 81/2". I have a
> number of K26 bricks that I' was thinking about using in the firebox area/
> bottom few courses of the kiln walls. I read a previous post that
> cautioned about combining K23 and K26, citing that thermal expansion rates
> will cause brick wear. Is there a way to use the different bricks in a way
> that this would not be a signficant concern? Say if I had two complete
> courses of K26 and switched to K23 for the rest of the Kiln would that be
> less of a concern. Thanks, George
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
David Hendley on fri 22 feb 08
I don't agree with the theory that K23 and K26 bricks should
not be mixed because of excessive wear. Your idea of using the
K26s around the fireboxes and bottom of the kiln is excellent.
I did just that in my 10-year-old fastfire-style wood kiln and
it has held up great. The area where the flame comes in the
kiln is the area of heaviest wear, and even the K26s show signs
of wear - K23s would have been toast by now.
Increasing the wall thickness to 8 1/2 " is also an excellent idea.
You will not be sorry.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
>I recently purchased a unfired MFT/OFT kiln, dismantled and moved it. The
> kiln used oversized K23 bricks/single wall throughout. I'd like to change
> to a double wall, increasing wall thickness from 6 to 81/2". I have a
> number of K26 bricks that I' was thinking about using in the firebox area/
> bottom few courses of the kiln walls. I read a previous post that
> cautioned about combining K23 and K26, citing that thermal expansion rates
> will cause brick wear. Is there a way to use the different bricks in a way
> that this would not be a signficant concern? Say if I had two complete
> courses of K26 and switched to K23 for the rest of the Kiln would that be
> less of a concern. Thanks, George
gary navarre on sat 23 feb 08
Hay Guys,
Ahhh well it took me a while of lookin at this old
book on space age refractory materials I found in my
small collection to realize the guy with the Sunny
Bono hair cut is Frank. Ha! Well so anyway back then
when I was contemplating my eventual kiln envelope
some of his ideas interested me so I put some blanket
in my last/first good wood kiln and I think it
definitely made up for my lack of enough materials to
make a larger chamber...
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/hobagama_1986-90/fb.html
However, now that I have cobbed together enough hard
brick for a decent size chamber I'm in favor of at
least 4.5", if not 9" near the base, shell of high
heat duty hard brick, then a layer of IFB or a layer
of "space age" material and then the IFB. I've asked a
bunch about forming the board like forming a curved
form in hanging drywall, ( dampening the board and
draping it over the chamber and let it dry) but
doesn't seem anyone has tried it so when I go down
below I'll stop in Grant Repids to that refractory
warehouse and see if that guy has any. That's where I
got the blanket I sandwiched in a wall with
sawdust/clay/sand and IFB. Over time I'd say it lost
integrity. Still though I was able to reach ^14 in
front, quite by accident, with wood so I'd say the
"space age" stuff helped.
--- Frank Colson wrote:
> George- Your best proclaimed answer to your
> question is your own. Of
> course you could increase your kiln operation
> efficiency ten fold by simply
> inserting a half-inch, six pound density, ceramic
> fiber blanket, outsite,
> inside, or in-between! This will increase your
> fuel savings beyond
> belief.
>
> Frank Colson
> Author of "Kiln Building with Space Age Materials"
>
> www.R2D2u.com
>
> From: "George Nagel"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 9:19 AM
> Subject: Kiln Building Question
>
>
> >I recently purchased a unfired MFT/OFT kiln,
> dismantled and moved it. The
> > kiln used oversized K23 bricks/single wall
> throughout. I'd like to change
> > to a double wall, increasing wall thickness from 6
> to 81/2". I have a
> > number of K26 bricks that I' was thinking about
> using in the firebox area/
> > bottom few courses of the kiln walls. I read a
> previous post that
> > cautioned about combining K23 and K26, citing that
> thermal expansion rates
> > will cause brick wear. Is there a way to use the
> different bricks in a way
> > that this would not be a signficant concern? Say
> if I had two complete
> > courses of K26 and switched to K23 for the rest of
> the Kiln would that be
> > less of a concern. Thanks, George
> >
> >
>
Gary Navarre
Navarre Pottery
Navarre Enterprises
Norway, Michigan, USA
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/
http://www.youtube.com/GindaUP
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
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Frank Colson on sat 23 feb 08
George- Your best proclaimed answer to your question is your own. Of
course you could increase your kiln operation efficiency ten fold by simply
inserting a half-inch, six pound density, ceramic fiber blanket, outsite,
inside, or in-between! This will increase your fuel savings beyond
belief.
Frank Colson
Author of "Kiln Building with Space Age Materials"
www.R2D2u.com
From: "George Nagel"
To:
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 9:19 AM
Subject: Kiln Building Question
>I recently purchased a unfired MFT/OFT kiln, dismantled and moved it. The
> kiln used oversized K23 bricks/single wall throughout. I'd like to change
> to a double wall, increasing wall thickness from 6 to 81/2". I have a
> number of K26 bricks that I' was thinking about using in the firebox area/
> bottom few courses of the kiln walls. I read a previous post that
> cautioned about combining K23 and K26, citing that thermal expansion rates
> will cause brick wear. Is there a way to use the different bricks in a way
> that this would not be a signficant concern? Say if I had two complete
> courses of K26 and switched to K23 for the rest of the Kiln would that be
> less of a concern. Thanks, George
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
James and Sherron Bowen on thu 28 feb 08
"My favorite wall makeup is a soft brick inside hard outside."
Do you use soldier rows to tie the two different kinds of bricks together?
If so are the soldiers hard or soft?
Jim
Boyero, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Cortright"
To:
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: Kiln Building Question
>I have mixed brick types in over 12 kilns over the years with no ill
>effects. The 9 inch wall will work
> better as an insulator. Mix away with k 26 and 23's and worry about
> something else-Put those
> 26's in the firebox area for long life. My favorite wall makup is a soft
> brick inside hard outside.
Frank Colson on thu 28 feb 08
I sill don't get it? Thick wall (9")? Mixed brick wall? Old brick or new
brick? IFB brick walls. IFB w/hard brick outside wall?
I started building kilns by turning the 9" brick around making only 4 1/2"
thick walls supplemented with 1/2" ceramic fiber blanket overlay.
First, outside the brick wall, later inside the chamber. I did this for
10 years during my research for a better way, a cheaper way, and a more
efficient way to build and operate a pottery kiln BEFORE publishing my
book: "Kiln Building with Space Age Materials" in 1975! I don't care if the
cost of ceramic fiber blanket has doubled or tripled. Half the amount of
brick to make the same size kiln, is not only half the cost, half the time
and labor, and certainly as efficient if not more so than the same old same
old.
I have built kilns (and furnaces) all over the world in this fashion;
Canada,Mexico, New Zealand, Australia, Germany, Peru, on and on! I am
really taken by the lack of ingenunity and inventiveness I find when
reading postings on clayart, particularly on this subject. Not to mention
pottery related supply houses advertising in almost all ceramic publications
offering everything except ceramic fiber products. There are a few
exceptions of course. Every custom built kiln by every potter is usually a
jewel of special attention and personal pride when
belching out an array of exceptionally unique and beautiful pots. How much
greater the satisfaction when that kiln was the result of the same
devotion, understanding, and love put into the pot who's germination was the
soul of its creater!
Frank Colson
www.RD2u.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Cortright"
To:
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: Kiln Building Question
>I have mixed brick types in over 12 kilns over the years with no ill
>effects. The 9 inch wall will work
> better as an insulator. Mix away with k 26 and 23's and worry about
> something else-Put those
> 26's in the firebox area for long life. My favorite wall makup is a soft
> brick inside hard outside.
> Mark Cortright
> www.liscomhillpottery.com
>
> On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:19:24 -0500, George Nagel
> wrote:
>
>>I recently purchased a unfired MFT/OFT kiln, dismantled and moved it. The
>>kiln used oversized K23 bricks/single wall throughout. I'd like to change
>>to a double wall, increasing wall thickness from 6 to 81/2". I have a
>>number of K26 bricks that I' was thinking about using in the firebox area/
>>bottom few courses of the kiln walls. I read a previous post that
>>cautioned about combining K23 and K26, citing that thermal expansion rates
>>will cause brick wear. Is there a way to use the different bricks in a way
>>that this would not be a signficant concern? Say if I had two complete
>>courses of K26 and switched to K23 for the rest of the Kiln would that be
>>less of a concern. Thanks, George
>>
>>______________________________________________________________________________
>>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
>>http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>>melpots2@visi.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
Mark Cortright on thu 28 feb 08
I have mixed brick types in over 12 kilns over the years with no ill effects. The 9 inch wall will work
better as an insulator. Mix away with k 26 and 23's and worry about something else-Put those
26's in the firebox area for long life. My favorite wall makup is a soft brick inside hard outside.
Mark Cortright
www.liscomhillpottery.com
On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:19:24 -0500, George Nagel wrote:
>I recently purchased a unfired MFT/OFT kiln, dismantled and moved it. The
>kiln used oversized K23 bricks/single wall throughout. I'd like to change
>to a double wall, increasing wall thickness from 6 to 81/2". I have a
>number of K26 bricks that I' was thinking about using in the firebox area/
>bottom few courses of the kiln walls. I read a previous post that
>cautioned about combining K23 and K26, citing that thermal expansion rates
>will cause brick wear. Is there a way to use the different bricks in a way
>that this would not be a signficant concern? Say if I had two complete
>courses of K26 and switched to K23 for the rest of the Kiln would that be
>less of a concern. Thanks, George
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
George Nagel on fri 29 feb 08
Hi Mark,
Checked out your website as well. I went to school at Humboldt from 66 to 71. That was where my introduction to ceramics took place. I've gone back to see how things had changed a couple of times, but it's been quite awhile since my last time. Anyway, thanks for your thoughts/views. I'm planning on doing pretty much what you said. Might have even considered the hard brick outside except that I have more than enough insulating bricks and just enough hard brick for the floor. So, I plan to use the k26 bricks on the bottom few courses until above the fire box area and than switch over to the k23. Thanks again, George
-----Original Message-----
>From: Mark Cortright
>Sent: Feb 28, 2008 10:34 AM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Kiln Building Question
>
>I have mixed brick types in over 12 kilns over the years with no ill effects. The 9 inch wall will work
>better as an insulator. Mix away with k 26 and 23's and worry about something else-Put those
>26's in the firebox area for long life. My favorite wall makup is a soft brick inside hard outside.
>Mark Cortright
>www.liscomhillpottery.com
>
>On Fri, 22 Feb 2008 12:19:24 -0500, George Nagel wrote:
>
>>I recently purchased a unfired MFT/OFT kiln, dismantled and moved it. The
>>kiln used oversized K23 bricks/single wall throughout. I'd like to change
>>to a double wall, increasing wall thickness from 6 to 81/2". I have a
>>number of K26 bricks that I' was thinking about using in the firebox area/
>>bottom few courses of the kiln walls. I read a previous post that
>>cautioned about combining K23 and K26, citing that thermal expansion rates
>>will cause brick wear. Is there a way to use the different bricks in a way
>>that this would not be a signficant concern? Say if I had two complete
>>courses of K26 and switched to K23 for the rest of the Kiln would that be
>>less of a concern. Thanks, George
>>
>>______________________________________________________________________________
>>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
vpitelka on fri 29 feb 08
I went to Humboldt State University from 1968 to 1971, and I tried to =
send a message to George Nagel. I receive one of those incredibly =
obnoxious spam-blocking messages that requires you to fill out a form in =
order to penetrate the sacrosanct spam-blocking barrier. When I clicked =
on the link and went to the website to fill out the necessary form, =
wishing only to make contact, I got a message saying "Error - Unable to =
process sender request." My goodness, what a load of crap. I am not =
going to waste any more time thinking about this. =20
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
gayle bair on tue 11 mar 08
On the lighter side of kiln building... a friend of mine in WA got
pulled into helping a friend,
he just happens to call Crazy Dave,
build(& I use that word very loosely) a wood kiln using some old
bricks he had laying around,
and an old electric kiln. It looks like a junk yard kiln.
The first attempt was not successful. The second fired to ^5 in 1 1/2
hrs, ^6 in 2 1/2 hrs
which included a 1/2 hr soak.
He'll send me some photos of the pots tomorrow.
Rube Goldberg would be proud.
Gayle Bair
Tucson AZ
Bainbridge Island WA
gayle@claybair.com
www.claybair.com
On Feb 28, 2008, at 5:28 PM, James and Sherron Bowen wrote:
> "My favorite wall makeup is a soft brick inside hard outside."
> Do you use soldier rows to tie the two different kinds of bricks
> together?
> If so are the soldiers hard or soft?
> Jim
> Boyero, CO
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Cortright"
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 11:34 AM
> Subject: Re: Kiln Building Question
>
>
>> I have mixed brick types in over 12 kilns over the years with no ill
>> effects. The 9 inch wall will work
>> better as an insulator. Mix away with k 26 and 23's and worry about
>> something else-Put those
>> 26's in the firebox area for long life. My favorite wall makup is
>> a soft
>> brick inside hard outside.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
James and Sherron Bowen on thu 13 mar 08
I will be firing a converted to LP junk 1027 Paragon tomorrow to cone ten or
more. It's the same one that rolled down the drive way at 2350 degrees and
tipped over a few years back. Didn't have enough pots to load the downdraft
kiln so found this buried in the shop.
Jim
Boyero
Fred Parker on thu 13 mar 08
Hey Gayle:
How about some pictures of the kiln? Would love to see it...
Thanks,
Fred Parker
On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:41:46 -0700, gayle bair
wrote:
>On the lighter side of kiln building... a friend of mine in WA got
>pulled into helping a friend,
>he just happens to call Crazy Dave,
>build(& I use that word very loosely) a wood kiln using some old
>bricks he had laying around,
>and an old electric kiln. It looks like a junk yard kiln.
>The first attempt was not successful. The second fired to ^5 in 1 1/2
>hrs, ^6 in 2 1/2 hrs
>which included a 1/2 hr soak.
>He'll send me some photos of the pots tomorrow.
>Rube Goldberg would be proud.
>
>Gayle Bair
>Tucson AZ
>Bainbridge Island WA
>gayle@claybair.com
>www.claybair.com
>
>
>
>
>On Feb 28, 2008, at 5:28 PM, James and Sherron Bowen wrote:
>
>> "My favorite wall makeup is a soft brick inside hard outside."
>> Do you use soldier rows to tie the two different kinds of bricks
>> together?
>> If so are the soldiers hard or soft?
>> Jim
>> Boyero, CO
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Mark Cortright"
>> To:
>> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 11:34 AM
>> Subject: Re: Kiln Building Question
>>
>>
>>> I have mixed brick types in over 12 kilns over the years with no ill
>>> effects. The 9 inch wall will work
>>> better as an insulator. Mix away with k 26 and 23's and worry about
>>> something else-Put those
>>> 26's in the firebox area for long life. My favorite wall makup is
>>> a soft
>>> brick inside hard outside.
>>
>>
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>
>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
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