Snail Scott on wed 2 may 01
At 09:23 AM 5/2/01 -0400, you wrote:
>I want to apologize for not giving much information in my original post.
It turns out that I was doing just about everything wrong! My untreated 1=
plywood shelves didn't have the proper support. Particle board with I don=
know WHAT in it! I have now been educated and I thank you all for your he=
Sounds like the only real problem was skinny plywood.
1/2" is OK for shed siding and other 'infill' type
non-structural applications. It's just too wimpy for
shelves, no matter how close the supports are. Hold
out for 5/8" plywood, or 3/4" if used for very heavy
loads. Exterior grade will resist delaminating in damp
If you are stuck with the 1/2" stuff, you CAN use it.
Just nail 1x2 strips underneath the front and back of
each shelf (2" side perpendicular, 1" side against the
shelf bottom). This will give the necessary strength.
Carole Fox on wed 2 may 01
Many thanks to all who responded personally to me regarding my shelf =
dilemma. I thought I would sum up the information I received for the =
1. Most lumberyards sell wood which is green (not=20
dried out). Even if the wood is straight when you=20
buy it, it will warp as it dries. Two options:
a. look for kiln-dried lumber next time.
b. use MDF or plywood, which is not made of solid=20
wood, and will not warp as it dries.
No matter what the shelves were made of, they will=20
last longer without warping if painted with several
good coats of exterior-grade paint.
>From Karen Sterling:
Plywood (min 3/4" ) and I would get exposure rated or marine plywood) =
will be stronger than regular furniture grade wood Boards. You can also =
use 3/4" OSB (oriented strand board)
You can also get a product that has a laminated coating on it and is =
used for a lot of shelving it is melamine coated plywood (if you have a =
really good lumberyard you can even get this in different colors). This =
is very durable and has a factory applied coating on it.=20
>From Philip Poburka:
Keep the 'span' under three feet...32 inches is often good, or this =
distance between supports.
avoid 'particle-board' in its various forms and
disguises...whether or nor it 'comes' as 'shelves' with phony 'wood' =
milar coatings, or wood-looking appearance: inspect the edges on the =
sides...don't be fooled!
If 'building' these, as distinct from using 'brackets' screwed to the
wall which simply hold 'boards...one may also run a 'cleat' or a =
'stringer' along the bottom back of a shelf, being as a one-by-two, or =
one-by-four, which fastens to the wall, and this adds more
rigidity without being in the way...and may keep the thing from =
pulling away from the wall...this ought fasten to the studs beneath the =
wallboard or plaster, and they (the studs) may be 16inches, 18 inches, =
24 inches [apart].they can vary depending on who built the house, where =
on the wall it is, and or how old of House it is.
'Molly' bolts or other special fasteners may be resorted to in the =
absence of some stud being where you wanted it to be. However, they may =
not afford the shear resistance you want, and vertical supports (as on =
the front) may be called for at the rear, to take the compression load, =
and not creep, or settle as 'mollies' will.
Philip goes on to give many details and I will be glad to e-mail you a =
copy of his post, if interested.
If you are looking in the archives for more information about making =
shelves, check out the posts by Bruce Girrell and Cindy Strnad under the =
heading "My husband just wants to please me."
I want to apologize for not giving much information in my original post. =
It turns out that I was doing just about everything wrong! My untreated =
1/2 plywood shelves didn't have the proper support. Particle board with =
I don't know WHAT in it! I have now been educated and I thank you all =
for your help.
Carole- in Elkton,MD- where the apple orchards are all a-bloomin'.