vince pitelka on mon 16 apr 01
> Pinstriping tape, available in auto supply shops (paint dept.) works very
> well. It has a very clean edge and can be applied to create straight lines
> or curves. The tape is available in various widths from 1/16" to about
3/8".
> The width of the tape that you choose will be the width of the line of
clay
> that you wish to leave remaining between colored areas.
For those wanting a very crisp, perfect line, this is appropriate, but I
prefer the cuerda seca method much discussed on Clayart. It involves a
hand-painted resist line, and I like the expressive quality. I do not like
to impose that geometrically perfect line on a pot. In the cuerda seca
method you simply paint line work with a wax or oil-base medium, either
plain or tinted with oxide and/or a little glaze. You then paint your
glazes in the intervening spaces, and the wax/oil line resists the glazes
and keeps them separate. But as Bruce pointed out, this does not work well
with glazes which flow.
If you are interested in the cuerda seca technique you can find lots of
information in the archives.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Bruce Girrell on mon 16 apr 01
Sandy Lindsey wrote:
> I would like to try making geometric lines of
> different sizes and shapes on perhaps a plate that I
> could put glazes of different colors next to each
> other that would stay in their own space, leaving a
> line of clay inbetween.
Pinstriping tape, available in auto supply shops (paint dept.) works very
well. It has a very clean edge and can be applied to create straight line=
s
or curves. The tape is available in various widths from 1/16" to about 3/=
8".
The width of the tape that you choose will be the width of the line of cl=
ay
that you wish to leave remaining between colored areas.
Apply the tape to create your design. Mask off other areas with cheaper
masking tape if there is danger of glaze slopping from one area to anothe=
r.
Brush the glaze into the areas left open after masking. Peel the tape off
before the glaze really dries out or you may have a lot of flaking. The
flakes can be repaired, but it takes some delicate brush work.
An important part of this is the glaze formulation itself. Obviously, run=
ny
glazes won't work well. Also, glazes with high gerstley borate content do=
n't
stay in place well either, as the GB tends to bubble before it melts.
The best glazes for this type of work are frit-based glazes. Frit glazes
stay in place very nicely and keep a nice, crisp edge. Frit glazes tend t=
o
dry to a very powdery state, though, and can easily be rubbed off or
smeared. Use CMC or similar substance to help harden the dried glaze.
Also, frit glazes tend to settle in the bucket very badly. Once settled,
they can be difficult to get back into suspension. Use some bentonite or
other suspender (flocculants won't work because there is so little clay) =
to
help keep the glaze suspended and don't mix up too much at one time. The
glaze doesn't go bad from solubles, but if you mix up a lot, then sooner =
or
later you will let the bucket sit for a while without stirring it and the
frit will settle like concrete.
Bruce "having a frit" Girrell
Susan Fox Hirschmann on tue 17 apr 01
The other place to get an even wider variety of widths and details in many
kinds of self adhesive tape is a really good drafting supply store. They
also have wonderful bendable rulers to make designs around a pot and other
fun things you can use in decorating. I still have my templates from
interior design school, with various shapes cut into the bendable plastic,
used, by scale to demarcate pieces of furniture and other shapes. (squares,
rectangles, triangles, etc) They are great for airbrushing or applying slips
in small sections, in geometric patterns.
Just my 2cents! good luck.
susan
Annandale, VA
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