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pugmill corosion

updated wed 31 jan 01

 

Paul Stubbs on wed 17 jan 01


I know IM being picky here but dear Steve Mills the mudslinger miss
quoted the tip regarding Araldite (2 part epoxy glue) coating for the
pug barrel. (thanks for the mention though Steve)
In fact I have only ever used this preparation on the mild steel nose
cone of the machine I built some 30 years ago. It lasted well and was
particularly good as it improved the flow of the material, especially
when using the wide extruder nose. (You can see it in Daryl Bairds and
Diane Panciolis extruding books)
I have a feeling that a rough surface to the rest of the barrel is a
good thing as the clay likes to grip the sides somewhat rather than
slide over it. Some machines over here have an inner surface that
resembles a rifle barrel so that it gives a key to the clay column
Use the pug regularly is the real answer to corrosion in my experience.
I heard Mick Casson, perhaps our most well loved potter, say once
"dont believe experts" now there's a thought.

--
Paul Stubbs & Julia Manning.
2 Rosebank,
Queen Street,
Keinton Mandeville.
Somerset.
TA11 6EQ
England.

Jean Mitton on tue 30 jan 01


As this is my first post,. may I thank those that initiated and
moderated to keep this group going... ie Mary, Joe and Richard, now Mel
(get well) and Joyce.

Paul Stubbs(17th Jan) and fellow Clay Buds. Those rifle barrel
type marks that you noticed on some pugmills, are there to initially
retain some of the material being pugged... to act as a liner to reduce
the wear on the actual metal bore. This wear (erosion) is often mistaken
for corosion, especially if the mill has constantly been pugging grogged
clay and definitely if it has an aluminium barrel.

Ron Mitton,
Siuth Africa.